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About DRZ04

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    TT Silver Member

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    Dual Sport, Motocross, Off Road Riding

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  1. DRZ04

    426 supermoto

    When I put 17" on my 450 I measured the length I needed & contacted RAD manufacturing & told them what I needed. I don't know if the had them in stock or if they machined me a set but they fit & worked.
  2. DRZ04

    2012 No Ignition / Main Switch?

    It certainly sounds like a bad switch or it is sticky and/or bad contacts. You might be able to disassemble the switch and free it up or replace it. RCMC has the 1DX-82510-00 "Main Switch" for $92 so I would try to repair. Maybe even just cycling the switch will free it up so it will work. Good luck.
  3. DRZ04

    What did you do to your WR today?

    Rocker if you have not contacted Rekluse Customer Services then I would recommend that. They are very helpful. I had a similar problem with a Rekluse I put on a modified DRZ435S I had and they were able to walk me through things to check. I would try it & if it did not work I would call them back and we would try the next thing. It took a couple times but we got it. They build the clutches normally for a stock bike so if it has more power it could effect how the Rekluse works. Good luck.
  4. DRZ04

    2012 WR450 Headlight Perm Removal

    I have had mine on & off a bunch of time. It should not be a problem just removing the head light and running the engine. You will only have a problem is so much that you will have all of the wires still there. you should be able to remove some of the wiring by studying the wiring schematic and removing the wiring piece by piece just try to start it after each piece is removed. Some items might be a bit more difficult like the tip over switch or the temp switch or anything that inputs the computer and is used to calculate the emissions.
  5. DRZ04

    ANOTHER Stripped oil drain plug

    If pulling on it while unthreading won't work I would find & drill the absolute center of the plug. increase the drill size until you can almost see the threads then go at it with an awl or a scribe to pull the remaining threads out. They should look like a spring. Again using grease chase the threads with the proper tap. It is time consuming and tedious but it can save some time and money to split the case.
  6. DRZ04

    ANOTHER Stripped oil drain plug

    What you did was good work. Less work would be a "Time Cert" - http://www.timesert.com/ or a "Keensert" - http://www.repairengineering.com/keensert.html Check your local parts shop but the best deal is to go on line to McMaster Carr as they have both & are usually easy to get. If you use caution and grease you don't have to split the case. The grease should trap & hold the metal caused from the drilling and counter boring. Both of these can be used where you are removing & installing the bolt often. Heli-Coil should not be used where the fastener is removed & reinstalled often.
  7. DRZ04

    Is this normal for a WR450?

    Not really a rare occurrence to any 4 stroke just sitting there running.
  8. Unfortunately if you ran it as long as you said you will have more damage than you think possible. If you want to scare yourself disassemble the oil filter element. The folds will be full of metal. That metal has gone all through your engine. I lost part of a bearing on my DRZ435 big bore and I had damaged bearings & bushings, the oil pump was shot as the metal went through it & galled it which means the oil pressure was low. You can go the easy cheap way to get it back running again but sooner or later it will pop up and bite you, Probably out on the trail 20 miles from your truck and you will be screwed big time. Usually when they go after a small problem it costs more and takes out more. At least tear it down and inspect it well even split the case. It may be cheaper in the end. Sorry just my nickel.
  9. DRZ04

    Triple Clamps 2012+

    If it is tough to get the second fork into & through the bottom clamp I don't believe it is caused by a bent fork. Think about it, what is it binding against in just the lower clamp by itself? I have to wedge a straight slot screw driver in to spread the top clamp but not the bottom clamp. The lack of clearance between the inside diameter of the clamp and the outside diameter of the fork leg. If you had a bent clamp or fork leg you should see a gap on one side of the top clamp and not on the other. You want a tight fit so it clamps 360 degree equally and holds very good. Loose is a bad thing in this case I believe.
  10. If you have removed the stock speedo and want to get rid of the stock right fork guard and replace it with the same "non-bulging" as is on the left. Order the ones off the '13 WR250R. Not the WR250F. The part number for the lower fork guards that bolt up to my 2013 without the bulge on the right side for the stock speedometer cable is Yamaha part numbers 1C3-2315J-10 and 1C3-2315H-10. The spacer to replace the speedo drive & spacer is the Flatlander unit and it was easy to install & holds the stock seal. It is a quality unit. http://www.flatlandracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FR&Product_Code=21-08&Category_Code=Odometer+Eliminators Odometer Spacer for 02-14 WR 250F & 03-14 WR 450F Quantity in Basket: None Code: 21-08 Price: $29.95
  11. DRZ04


    Hard to tell but I think the clutch hub bushing is worn out allowing the basket to rotate out of round and more outward. If the farther out friction plates tips are worn more that the inboard are would also lead me to inspect the bushing. I say this because of how the ends of the friction clutch plates are curled over & worn uneven. It is worth inspecting it. I would replace at least the friction plates.
  12. I have a '13 WR450F that the battery would not hold a charge on. I priced out the stock lead acid battery for ~ $139. I checked on the "New" batteries and found a Lithium Ion battery from RCMC was $99 so I ordered one. When I received it I pulled it out of the box and I could not believe how light it was. The cardboard box it was in was heavier that the battery. It felt like an empty plastic case. Without charging it I installed it and cranked & started the bike without any problem. I am sold on them and will replace the battery on all of my bikes with a Lithium Ion battery.
  13. I have a 29" inseam and with a Devol lowering link and a shortened seat I was still on my tip toes. Riding wasn't an issue but mounting and stopping sure was. I sent my forks & shock out to Factory Connection where they shortened it 1.5", re-sprung both ends, and re-valved it for off-road. I got it back together today and dropped it off the stand and tried it on. Now I am comfortably on the balls of my feet. I still need to take it out for a ride but so far I am happy. It was under $1000. They will make any modifications, for me or another person, to take it back to stock or some other configuration for the cost of a rebuild plus parts if needed. Sure seems like a good deal to me.
  14. DRZ04

    Let's see those WR's!

    You can easily move the rim/tyre over by loosening the left side spokes 1/4 to 1/2 turn each 360 degrees all the way around. Then tighten the right side spokes the same 1/4 or 1/2 turn all the way around and it will pull the rim/tyre away from the chain. You can repeat it again if that is not enough. I would not go much more than 1 full turn. I did this on my DRZ and it tracked true even being off set. Give it a trial ride after.
  15. I have a 29" inseam and I just cannot handle how tall my '13 WR450F. I fell over 5 times standing still at a stop the last time off road. I have a Devol lowering link installed, a SDG lowered seat, and moved the forks up in the clamps maybe 1/2" to 3/4" which all helped sum. But I am just too short. Anyone have their suspension professionally shortened? If so how much, by who, and how did it work. I find 3 or 4 that will shorten it just not sure how much. Several said no more than 1 1/2". Devol will lower it down to flat track height 4" to 6" if you want.