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Rootuser

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About Rootuser

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    California
  1. Rootuser

    How do you test a 250x stator?

    AHh nice, thanks. The Haynes one is so much easier to read for me. FYI tested from the stator I'm getting 44V AC on a decent tester (not the greatest but eh). Haven't had a spare moment to test the others but I will.
  2. Rootuser

    Barely used 2005 CRF 250X?

    14,000 miles I think speaks to Honda's reliability. Supposedly they "fixed" the valve issue in 06 but I would think if you don't overly push the bike and check/adjust the valves judiciously you'd be fine. If the bike is the right price why not go for it? I have never personally put enough miles on an 05 to say the valves are or aren't a problem but I have ridden or personally know people who ride the 04, 06, 09 extensively and while the 04 did have valve issues the guy who rode it screamed it 4th/5th gear WOT everywhere it seemed so I wasn't surprised when it let go.
  3. Rootuser

    New CRF 250X???

    Here is the bike I just got off of. CRF250X 2006. Excuse the other bikes, tractor, atv bleeding into the picture. SO obviously you stand corrected on your statement. To answer your questions I have one of my own: What does 4 valves have to do with anything? The Yamaha has 5. FIVE, CINCO, V, 4+1. By your estimation, less parts would automagically be better, so let's find a 2 valve bike. It will be better. The KTM and the Yamaha for example both have DOHC. Obviously inferior pieces of machinery with no benefit to them whatsoever. Both Yamaha and KTM decided they wanted to have less advantage to their bikes so they put in DOHC with the idea to only reduce advantages. We are all now informed that the Honda SOHC gives ALL, yes ALL, the advantages of DOHC with NONE, yes NONE of the disadvantages. Thanks for the info. Changing your cam timings individually (say retarding the exhaust valve opening/closing timing only or advancing the intake)????? Much easier with DOHC. Change the exhaust cam or change the intake seperately. No need to machine a fully custom cam. Obviously a disadvantage. I wonder why anyone in their right mind would ever even make a DOHC anything as there is no advantage at all and only disadvantages, being that SOHC is the perfect beast. The low-end torque issue is a user preference, and to me, they aren't overly torquey which is really nice. Remember the XRs? What torque monsters! The CRF250X plays much nicer. The power curve is much nicer IMHO. My point here is, what is an advantage to one person can be a disadvantage to another. There is no straight line, thus why I mentioned the DOHC being both an advantage and disadvantage at the same time.
  4. Rootuser

    New CRF 250X???

    250X pros: Nimble! Smooth power band. Tons of aftermarket upgrades. The reliability of the Honda motor. Uni-cam desgin has proven very reliable and less complex than DOHC, thus less to break 250X cons: Lack of low end, even when uncorked/re-cammed. While attempting to be smooth in the power band, the bike just doesn't have huge torque. It's a 250, if you want huge torque, look at a 450. Top end flattens due to lack of HP/Torque. Again its a 250, what do you expect? Another con is the Uni-cam (even though I mentioned it was a pro). It's a con because you can't tune as finely with the cams and you have less valves etc. Its hard to turn out the eye watering 15,000 RPMS of a DOHC on a Single Cam. This is more of a riding style preference. For what Trailboy said, it is a great woods bike. Because it isn't torquey, you can negotiate through mud much easier and don't risk throwing yourself into a tree. This is the biggest thing I have noticed about the 250X: It's SMOOTH. That's quite a feat from Honda IMHO.
  5. Rootuser

    How do you test a 250x stator?

    Wow the diagram I have for it shows the Blue wire feeding both the front and the back. Interesting! So, 10v AC sounds low to me. If I get a chance tomorrow (it's midnight here on the west coast) I will check to see what a known good model is putting out and let you know.
  6. Rootuser

    How do you test a 250x stator?

    So I am not sure what the output should be, does it say in the manual? 40 Volts from the Blue/White sounds just right to me. I am not sure on the other wires. You should have at least 14.5V when wound up beyond 5000 RPM. Are you winding the bike up and holding it when you take the reading? Are you sure you are above 5000 RPM? If so, then you definately arent getting the right voltage at the battery, 12.47 is at least 2 volts low. Rev it up to 7500 RPM, does it change? You've got to hold it there for a good 5-6 seconds before everything kicks in right. Just blipping the throttle for a second or two won't procude the right voltage. Try that and let me see if I have what the wires should be putting out. Off the top of my head, the blue wire which goes to the headlight and taillight at 16v AC seems to be right.
  7. Rootuser

    How do you test a 250x stator?

    Please share your findings! Also let me know what worked for your basic test procedure. I'd like to see what you found. Anything coming off the stator directly would be AC and would need the rectifier to change it to DC. So anything before the rectifier from the alternator would be AC I believe. I don't see any way for it to be DC. Looking at the diagram for the 04/05 that I have handy, it seems to me that the green wire completes the circuit to the Head AND tail light from the battery side (main fuse block) and also meets the rectifier. The red/white wire carrys from the rectifier back to the battery after coming out of the stator to recharge the battery. The green wire goes to ground at one point.
  8. Rootuser

    rear brake caliper leaking

    Put the bike on the stand and start mashing the rear break pedal. From what you say you should be able to see it squirting out. Then you can tell where it's coming from. If you don't see anything coming out, clean the heck out of everything and try again and see if its a very slow leak. Look at the back side (piston contact side) of the brake pads. Is one soaked in fluid? This would indicate it's leaking around the piston. From there, you can take off the rear caliper and clean the heack out of everything again. Put a thin piece of wood in place of the brake rotor. Hit the break pedal. See where the fluid shows up on the wood. That will give you a better idea of where it's coming from.
  9. Rootuser

    Guts Racing Comfort Style Seat

    I have the Durelle Racing one with gel, another option for you to look at. It's great and I love it. I have not tried the Guts to compare the two however. http://www.durelleracing.com/store/
  10. Rootuser

    250x electric start dont work

    How are you starting it? Are you pulling the throttle open accidently and flooding it? That happens a lot actually. What's your procedure? Does the starter sound "Slow" and it's just not really cranking the engine very well?
  11. Rootuser

    rear brake caliper leaking

    How do you know it's the caliper and not the fitting? Just curious. Haven't seen one go bad myself that wasn't slammed into something first, normally a rock or a tree root.
  12. Rootuser

    250R cam and jetting?

    Jets can sometimes look different depending on manufacturer. Thread pitch, placement etc are what's important. As for the cams, are they actually worn in any way or just darkened? The heat can cause them to darken as well as the contact with the other metals. Where you would need to worry is if they are streaked, or have stripes. Are the contact edges smooth? Is the wear even? Any grooves? That's what I would be looking for.
  13. Rootuser

    How do you test a 250x stator?

    http://www.dansmc.com/electricaltesting.htm Gives you a good basic understand. The problem is, if this hack job is as bad as you are saying, you might want to check all the wiring. There might be nothing wrong at all it's just not hooked up right. I just got a CRF250F that had the battery plugged in, it was dead. Every time I tried to plug in a new battery it would try to start. The problem was some idiot gutted the wiring and wired it directly from the starter to the dead battery. This didn't matter until you put a new battery in
  14. Rootuser

    250R cam and jetting?

    If you put in a leak jet that is too SMALL it will run rich (inverse relationship). The leak jet "leaks" gas out back into the float bowl. Watch the videos I posted and you'll see the smaller the leak jet (to the point in the first video they blocked it entirely) the more gas shot out of the AP. Bigger in Main Jet and Pilot make you richer. Bigger in leak jet means more gas flows back into the bowl and makes you leaner. You could try the 165m/42p and 4th clip position and leave the 55 in there and give it a try. That combo seems like plenty of fuel. Honda loves to lean it out so they always recommend these huge leak jets (like a 70) but I think that is over doing it, then you get the lean bog again if you do that. Also, test the bike riding it around. A slight bog on the stand may translate into nothing at all under load and real world conditions.
  15. Rootuser

    250R cam and jetting?

    Here's one more video that shows how the AP squirt can be finely tuned using the screw. Take note, there is no O-ring or wiring used. Also take note if you back out the screw too far it no longer makes a difference. You can actually take your finger and pull the arm a bit further I think to squeeze every little bit of gas out. I theorize that pulling the arm too far (as would happen with the AP mod AND the screw adjusted too far out) would leave you starved for gas in situations where you blip the throttle a lot although I am not 100% that is the case, I am just guessing.
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