BAHeron

I have a kit from Sicass.com (http://sicassracing.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=105_19_26&products_id=44) No need for stator mods, no drain on the battery. It was about $300. If you want to add LED turn signals, it's $100 more. Nice kit, easy to install.

That Mountain Horse set up is sweet! Wish i could afford one. Anyone know of a used kit for an 06' WR for sale? Living in Michigan and doing snow removal, I only get a few weekends a year to ride in the snow, but i'd love to convert mine.

Looks like just a decal kit makes it a "Blackbird"? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Blackbird-Graphics-Decal-Kit-Yamaha-WRF-250-450-05-06-/170743690703?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c11df5cf

I changed the timing chain on my 2000 around 7,000 Miles. it was pretty stretched out (more then a half inch longer). Definately check the valves while your at it. My piston looked great still, just had to re-ring it.

The front wheel bearings on my 06' made that noise for a year. Until i changed them. Even tho they seemed fine, and had just a little rust. The noise i had was from the rubber dust shield, rubbing on the axel. Since the bearing was slightly worn, it made the dust shield off center. Yamaha doesn't grease any of the bearings very well when their new.

There's no wire going to the high-beam side of that bulb. If you need a light (for safety) just take the plug apart and swap the low-beam wire with the high-beam wire, assuming half the bulb works still. An 06' Ford F-250/350 bulb will work also. I put a silver star bulb in my 06. Same bulb.

Got it ready for 1000 miles in the UP. UPAT

The easiest way is to install a switch on the ground wire leading to the headlight. www.Siccassracing.com has good multi switch for the dual sport kit. It's less then $20 i think.

A heat gun, or hair dryer will take the "white" out of the plastic also.

It sounds like the rings are not in properly and have caught on one of the ports. The cam marks should be lined up with the Exhaust and Intake, or straight across the top of the motor, when the cam chain is tight and your piston is at top dead center. I think there is an "E" and "I" for exhaust and intake on the cams gears. You may be able to roll the motor backward to "unstick" the piston, but chances are those new rings will be ruined.

I bought the Sicass Racing kit. It looks good and is easy to install. I paid around $260. It didn't come with turn signals, but for another $50 you can add them. They are great with questions and trouble shooting. Check it out at http://www.sicassracing.com/cgi-bin/shoppingcart/agora.cgi?cart_id=1057396.2760&p_id=21-170&product=Lighting%20Kits&xm=on&ppinc=search2.

A buddy had somewhat of the same problem on his YZ converted to WR, The dealer found an o-ring in the carb dry rotted. I think it was on the pilot jet. His would run, but wouldn't start when warm. It also leaked gas from the overflow when kicking or sitting. $200 in shop labor for a .10 cent part, but it runs good now! I'd say to change everything rubber in your carb, if you haven't already. Hope this helps

Check E-Bay for a used stock one. I bought one a while back there.

Put them on the free to a good home page, I think just about everyone who has a liquid cooled Yamaha has a set of those in their garage. If you do find a buyer let us all know so we can sell ours too.

Expect a big difference. I went from a 2000 WR400 to a 2006 WR450. After the free mods it's a beast. Enjoy!