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RMZEnduro

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About RMZEnduro

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    Minnesota
  1. RMZEnduro

    Please help with crf 250x suspension set up.

    I agree with RedRider310, drop the forks down around the R settings. I am running mine about 6 mm down on the forks + the end cap hieght. This takes the light no feel/hunting that my X likes to do. I also went to 7.5 weight oil and running 5 clicks rebound and 6 clicks compression. Still feels plenty soft. I had the oil level in the outer tubs at max fill per users manual. This made the bottom stroke WAY to stiff, I would never use the full stroke of the forks even after doing several tough logs.... it would bottom hard and deflect off the logs. I lowered the oil 5 ml, much better, MIGHT consider going down another 2 - 4 ml. Sounds insignificant but I can't believe how much of a difference it makes.
  2. RMZEnduro

    Please help with crf 250x suspension set up.

    From my experience I would thing the suspension is to soft. I would change the oil in the forks to 7.5, set the levels properly for the inner and outer chamber. I am running the outer near the top of the level spec. Here's my story: I got my 05 last year. The first enduro I couldn't keep it on the trail.... it was so soft it would bounce right off the trail and knife in on nearly every corner. I cranked the compression in all the way to the first click. Still had a serious rebound issue, it was like riding a pogo stick. Cranked them into 3 clicks, road good!! felt much lighter and no more knifing and pogo sticking. I changed the fork oil to ATF ~10w, road great on the moto track but was VERY stiff at the bottom of the travel. I changed to 7.5w fork oil. When I did this I discovered I had missed a cruisial step in setting the oil level. I had never pumped and dumped out the extra oil out of the inner chamber..... it clear states that pumping set the volume level and no oil should be left in the valve/spring second chamber. I had way to much oil in it which made the second half of the stroke unusable. Logs were wicked!!! Now with the 7.5w oil, the right levels, I'm running the outer chamber at just over 12.2 ounces and inner chamber set properly and clicks at two in on both compression and rebound it rides really nice. I just finished a brutal enduro of mud, big rocks, roots and logs without any suspension complaints.
  3. RMZEnduro

    Is Napa gear oil okay?

    IMHO gear oil would be to thick and would have alot of clutch and gear drag. To thick robs power by increased drag on the gears also. I know you guys say it not the same ratings, but its thick when you try to pump that stuff into the rear end, and we're not talking about an enama here. : ) I used the ATF for a while but one day of hard riding in hills and woods the clutch started to drag alot. Really liked it up to that point. I've been using Rotella Syn 5w-40 in both eng/tranny this season and all is good. The engine seems to really like it, oil consumption is down, stays clean. The tranny likes it, not slipping or excessive debris. I'm glad because I used it my truck and cars too. One less thing to keep around the shop and its a good price.
  4. RMZEnduro

    how to get a kid interested

    Let it be his thing, not something Dad wants him to do. Ask if he wants to go riding, just like in your last post. Let him lead and be very patient following. I would just follow my kids around with enough room they don't feel pressured. So if they kill it, go slow, get stuck, whatever, its "hey no problem, I just love being out here, hanging out and riding together." Definitely don't take the lead and go burning off into the woods leaving them behind, thinking, "I'll show him how to do it." Haven't seen this method work until the kid has the basic skills and desire to ride. Let them lead, let dirtbiking be their thing and they'll be showing you how to do it very shortly..... at least in my case this is how it was.
  5. RMZEnduro

    how to get a kid interested

    Have you taken him to a family enduro or a harescramble race for the kids? Sounds like your approaching it the right way. Our clubs do this, all the event workers are always very help to make sure the kids have a good time. The kids get to meet other kids that like to ride and get to see what the other kids can do on a bike. Pretty soon they are saying "Bobby at the last race was really good. I bet I can do that too." My son didn't start until he was almost 12.... I started when I was 40! That was five years ago!! Last year he took 2nd in our disticts 250B Harescramble class! Like someone said earlier.... "one day you wont be able to keep up anymore."
  6. RMZEnduro

    Steel or Aluminum rear sprocket

    Steel sproket and O-ring chain if you are looking for long lasting combination. If you do a lot of hill climbing the aluminum will not last nearly as long as the steel.
  7. RMZEnduro

    Stock 06 is too "jumpy"

    r benner, Don't tune it out, as soon as you do, you'll want it back! I used to ride a DRZ400 and then an RMZ250. The DRZ is like a strong street bike like power in the woods and the RMZ was more midrange/top end/ two smokie like. It took me a little while to get used to the snap and quick peek of the X. You'll get used to it quickly. Its very helpful in the woods in lofting the wheel over logs/obsticles. And if you woods race, it fits very well with the short sprints from corner to corner. Don't change a thing is my suggestion for at least a few months. I was super frustrated with my suspension in the beginning. I was ready to throw it over the nearest cliff..... I am very accustomed to an MX suspensoin in the woods, but I've got it pretty dialed in now and love it. We'll see how the X and I bond this race/riding season, expecting good things!
  8. EBC Sintered pad, believe they are the MXS versions. Been using them for a long time. Work good, last long time, they need to warm up before they work really well. They squeal when they get hot. I've been thinking about trying a set of SBS pads. Used them on my street bikes and liked them. Anybody used them on dirtbikes? EBC is every where, haven't found a place for SBS yet.
  9. Quick tips for taking the body parts off - You can have your bike down to the engine and frame in 5 - 10 minutes. Pull the seat. Pull the tank with the shrouds on it, set it aside. Loosen the muffler pipe clamp from the header, loosen the airbox boot from the carb, remove three bolts holding the subframe to the bike. Remove. Your done. Work on your bike. Reverse the process. Takes a little experience to get the muffler pipe to slide back together the first time and get the airbox boot back on the carb, but after that its a piece of cake and only take a few minutes.
  10. And you've got one hellova clean carburator. Congrats.
  11. Make sure the boot between the carb and head is seated well. I don't think you have a cam timing issue, don't worry about cam points forward or backwards, just make sure the TDC and cam marks are lined up. The X engine fires the spark plug on every revolution any way, so you can't be 180 out, it just doesn't matter. Its not like a car. Don't force the feeler guages to check the setting, the valves will actually open the valve, snug fit only. One way to check that the valves are being held open is to put a dab of grease on the back side of the cam lob (opposite of the high lob), rotate the engine it should leave grease on the cam.... .005 for the intake right... so not much. But it shouldn't wipe clean, like it would if it was dragging. If your sure the choke and hot start and the boot isn't leaking there is much left for vacuum leaks. Check your float/fuel level in the bowl.... from here I'm running out of suggestions. I think there is something a rye in the carb. Is the needle jet getting seated all the way down into the main jet? Are you using a 42 pilot jet? Check that all the jets installed properly, i.e. are they seated well so they can't draw extra fuel? I've never used an R&D Power bowl. I would go through the carb and check every setting and make sure they are back to stock. It sounds like you've done this, but there must be some corner case that being missed.
  12. Sounds like a hot start leak to me = vacuum leak. Extra high idle at rich choke condition, hard to start.
  13. First paragraph is from the original post. I don't know how to do the quote from message..... >>Cam chain was wired up during the installation--didn't fall into case. I marked the cam chain and the cam sprocket in three spots >>with black marker before disassembly to make sure it was put back together correctly. TDC, cam lobes to the rear, punch mark >>aligned with index on case, cam sprocket index lines flush with cylinder head surface... I verifed this again when I double checked >>the valve clearance last weekend. You do have a point though, with everything else present the crappy combustion would >>suggest timing. I'll tear into that again in the morning...I don't think I can take anymore this evening. Thanks and I'll let you know >>what happens. The above message would conern me. Erase the magic marker marks and use only the factory marks as outlined in the book. Once you think you have the cam timingn right, install the cam chain tensioner, roll the engine over 3 times with a wrench and realign TDC and check the timing marks. There is no guarentee that the chain hasn't jumped. Make sure the decompression is working properly, that its not staying on. Check the Hot Start circuit that it isn't leaking air through the cable being wrong or a bad O ring or hanging up in the carb. Have you tried bump starting it? Sometimes engines need a little help getting started that first time. Take the spark plug out for a day or two when you don't get to work on it and let it dry out really good. Another trick I use to dry out the cylinder is to place the spark plug hole without screwing it and roll the engine over. The spark will light the fuel in the cylinder and dry it out. Sometime the spark plugs jumps pretty good.
  14. RMZEnduro

    Fork oil help please!

    My son and I do the same. If its leaking you'll likely need new seals. : ( You can try a short cut.... pull the dirt seal down, take a thin piece of plastic, goggle tear offs work the best. Slide the tear off around the fork inner tube up past the oil seal and go all the way around the tube and seal to clean any dirt that may be stuck in the inner oil seal. Clean the dirt seal and the area between the dirt seal and oil seal to clean out any dirt that may have gotten trapped in the area between the two seals. Slide the dirt seal back up into place. Be sure to bleed the air out of the forks regularly, they to like to ingest air. Two things I would recommend getting are a pair of air bleeders and pair of Seal Saver (any brand will do). I bleed mine often with the air bleeder. Keeps the pressure down inside the fork and give more predictable fork performance. As they heat up they will stiffen up with to much air in them. The Seal Savers will keep the dirt out of the seals. I didn't think they were very cool looking at first but they save alot of work not having to replace seals. Unlike the 230 and 150 the X doesn't have the plastic boot over the telescoping part of the fork, as you know, the seal savers will do the same job. Pretty tough to describe here without pics how to do the double chambers. If you have the CRF250X manual it gives a good step by step. I've seen some good write ups with pics but don't remember where they are. You can do it without special tools. Expect to take some time, plan a long afternoon to do both forks. Someone here will show up with a good thread... good bunch of people here that will help and have lots of resources. (looks like someone already has) One step the manuals say you need to make or purchase a special tool to hold the inner rod out so you can remove the cap on the bottom end of the fork. With a little caution I use a 1/2 or 12mm wrench to hold the tube out of the bottom of the fork to take the bottom cap off.
  15. RMZEnduro

    Mobil 1 15w-50

    Thanks guys. I am going to leave the ATF in and give it a try. Probably just monitor by taking samples for a while to make damn sure I'm not excessive wear.
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