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  1. 0 comments

    This is my 2007 Drz400s. Its had a few different identities over the years the latest one being converted to supermotard. I've had it since it was brand new and been modifying it ever since.
  2. Hey ya'll, I'm buying a yz 125 this spring and had a few questions. 1) What ratio for Oil:Gas works best for trail riding? I'm thinking a 32:1 2) Anyone have tips on how to keep their carburetor and motor spic and span in order to prevent bogging? I came across a video of a lad that mentioned he leaks the carburetor after every ride if there is still gas sitting in his tank. His explanation seemed logically sound: "When mixed gas used for 2 stroke engines sits for too long it somewhat ferments and cause serious bogging issues to the carburetor". 3) I'm 6'2 190 lbs, anyone else with a relative build to mine have any tips on their suspension set up?
  3. currently working on a 2004 crf250x i installed the JD jetting kit, the updated accelerator pump from crfsonly.com and the "merge racing" A/P spring. Should i still do the O-Ring/wire mod on the accelerator pump too? should i install a 50 leak jet? 165 main 45 pilot 68 starter 55 leak red needle 5th position air box cut fully backfire screen removed pink wire moved to empty slot exhaust is COMPLETELY open, complements of previous owner R&D fuel air mixture screw float height adjusted to 8mm
  4. Hello, I just picked up a 2010 YZ250 that I plan to use mostly in the forest. I just couldn't shell out the money for another KTM this time. The bike looks almost new and the price was right the guy said he road it 5 times and it sat in his garage the last 2 years. I need some help with a few items Carburetor - The bike sat for 2 years with gas in it so it starts and idles but doesn't run good it hiccups and seems clogged big surprise. He knocked off $500 for me to get it fixed. Since the carb needs work and I plan on using it in the woods anything I should do to it now other then clean it out? He was spraying the carb with some cleaner when I drove up so it probably needs something else. I considered just paying yamaha to fix it?? Spark plug suggestions? Oil Suggestions? Spark: Arrestor to fit stock pipe suggestions? Chain - Do I need a different chain than the stock one for woods riding? Gas Tank - Do I need a bigger one? It seems so small A kick stand would be nice too laugh if you must. I need to buy a helmet & boots too. Right now I would like to get the bike running stock and then see if I want to add a FWW and maybe a Rekluse clutch. I keep reading people mentioning a valve job for the forks is the best upgrade for riding better so info about that and who in Houston would do the valve job and what it cost would be great. Thanks!!
  5. So, I have an issue. Might be jetting, might not be jetting. This is gonna be long, but please bare with me and read on. I'll try to describe the issue best I can. Bike is a 2014 DRZ400SM with just under 5,000 miles. Mods are 3x3, Powerbomb header with the Powercore 4 muffler, and a JD jet kit on the stock BSR36 carb. Current jetting is 160 main, blue needle 4th clip, stock pilot, and the extended fuel screw which is currently at 3 turns out. I've tried the fuel screw at anywhere from 2.5 to 3 turns out. Temp today was mid 40's and sunny. Elevation is sea level to maybe a couple hundred feet above it. The issue I am having is at higher rpms with low throttle input. A perfect example was tonight I was going 52mph around a corner in 4th gear just holding a steady speed through the corner. It started doing it, I then looked down and the speedo showed 52, I looked back up to continue through the corner. The throttle position was about 1/4 throttle, maybe 1/3rd throttle at the very most. I don't have a tach, so I'm not sure what rpm a DRZ400SM with stock gearing is doing in the low 50's in 4th gear. My best guess would be maybe 6,000 rpm. It's definitely not near the limiter, but right in the thick of the powerband. The best way to describe the issue would be that it feels like it's running out of gas. The same kind of feeling you get when you have to switch to reserve on the tank. If I give any additional throttle input it'll accelerate right through it perfectly fine. I wouldn't call it a bog, because if I roll on the throttle or crack it open to full throttle the response is instant and it just accelerates right through it. It just feels and sounds like it's breaking up when trying to hold the throttle at a steady position. The first time this happened was in 5th gear at about 70mph So I originally thought that I had the dreaded 70mph stutter that many people have complained about. Then I started to notice it in other gears at other speeds. Tonight I checked my spark plug. I think it looked fine, I'll put up a pic, but I went out and grabbed a new one anyway since they only cost 4 dollars and change. I also turned the fuel screw out to 3 turns instead of the 2.75 turns it was at. Also put some Lucas brand fuel system cleaner in my tank. The issue I just described is still happening after the new spark plug and the screw being turned out the extra 1/4 turn. The bike runs perfectly otherwise. Starts up instantly, even starts up cold without any choke anytime it's above 40 degrees outside. Idles perfectly smooth. Throttle response is crisp and instant. Bike pulls strong and hard. The top end pull isn't anything special, but it's a mostly stock DRZ. It'll pull 3rd gear power wheelies at around the 30mph mark with just a slight tug on the bars. Decel popping isn't anything out of the ordinary, but it does do some light popping sometimes, but nothing I'd call excessive. The bike runs great otherwise. This issue isn't stopping me from riding it, but it's kind of annoying. Sorry this got so long, but if you have any ideas or suggestion I'd like to hear them. I'm out of ideas.
  6. I bought my first DRZ 400 SM. It's a 2005 with 5600 miles on it and its all stock. I want to by a bigger carb for it first. My question is do I go with a 39 mm or a 41mm? My plan is to get the Yoshimura RS-4 exhaust too. A little advice would be helpfull.
  7. hello all, long time lurker first post. i bought a xt350 without a title for $300 from a buddy. when i checked out it started easily and ran fairly well. it has about 3500 miles on it and seems in pretty good shape once i got it warmed up i noticed the idle was turned way up and didn't run at high RPMs until i had taken it a a couple blocks. so heres my problem: i'll get it started and let it warm up. it will idle just fine and rev up perfectly. but after i go about a quarter mile once i let off the gas and put it in neutral it will die. even if i dump the clutch and try and let it start with the rolling power it will die on me. it takes about 10 minutes to get it started again and it will do the same thing. i just disassembled the carb and it looks fairly clean but i don't know the most about these carbs. any ideas? thanks, cal
  8. Drz with a 440 kit, cams and full exhaust. Installing an oem 01 Fcr39. Sea level to 1500ft. OBDXP needle, 142 main. Should I be ok as is or get some more parts? Thanks
  9. Bike has all of the normal mods including the JD kit, baffle removed and has been de-smogged . Trying to get a baseline to set the mixture screw out. I have read anywhere from 2-3 turns, but have not been able to set and ride to tune. It will start without the choke at 3 turns, so obviously that is too rich. Any help is appreciated as I am new to four strokes
  10. 09 drz...fmf q4 slip on....25 degrees today,bike starts but stalls anything over half throttle...what main and pilot jets can i use with only the slip on? NO 3x3, no JD jet kit. Thanks 🙂
  11. Hey everyone, I'm a new member here. I am new to the dirty bike scene but have been riding (primarily fuel injected) street bikes for some time. I recently bought a 2005 WR250F. I am having trouble getting it to start. The seller claimed that the bike had no problems and started in the fall. He also claimed that the carb had just been "serviced" last fall. The battery was completely dead. I put a new battery in today and tried the e-start. The bike will crank all day long but will not start (I had the petcock open). It had some gas in the tank when I got it and although the seller claimed it had been good gas with sta-bil, it had a yellowish tint to it. I put fresh gas in it and it still would not start. I pulled the spark plug, I will replace it but it did not look too worn or fouled. It was sparking when i cranked with the e-start. I checked the air filter, it was clean. The bike has a clear canister with a filter in it between the petcock and the carb inlet. I'm guessing it's aftermarket because it says Motion Pro on the tubing. I was getting fuel flow directly out of the petcock and directly out of the tube that feeds the carb (after the inline filter). When I would crank the bike I would not see it pull and gas through the filter. I took the line off the petcock and cranked it to see if it would at least pull the fuel out of the line, and it did not. I pulled the carb and have begun to dissasemble and clean it. I am a complete novice when it comes to carbs so I am trying to read all that I can. I found some sediment in the bottom of the float bowl, but nothing really substantial. Should I buy a new jet kit or will I be alright just cleaning everything up? Is there anything in particular I should be looking for besides dirt and gunk? I pulled the TPS sensor off. Is there a procedure for resetting this using an Ohmmeter? Thanks in advance for any help. I look forward to learning a lot here.
  12. Hi there! I am new in this forum, but I have already visited. Every time I want to search about something about dirtbikes I end here =D I am starting in dirtbikes, Because I live in a very good place, open and very wild. I want a dirtbike to go out and explore new trails and have fun. Because I live in a remote place, I end up buying a brand new bike. Chinese still in the Box... So I got the pleasure to mount all the stuff. I had very fun times mounting everything.... add liquid to the radiator, change the oil, put some gas. Start the bike for the first time. The bike started... but didn´t idle... I had to just keep the enrichment lever pressed to keep it idle. I adjust the carburetor and got the idle more or less better, I tried to ride... but the bike simply stalls on first gear... or going from second gear to first gear... I simply go and try to adjust the air/fuel screw in the carburetor. And I think I got it right... Today I installed front and rear lights to make it street legal. And I tried to start the bike after the installation ... and I simply cant get it started ... :S Its a new bike, in America I think is called SSR 250 ... Its made by X Motos .. Chinese brand... it´s a Honda CRF clone. Its a 4stroke 4valve ..250cc water cooled ... 34 mm carburetor I dont know if I can put here a link.... but here he goes its from a bike like mine : crossfiremotorcycles.com/product/xz250rr/ In USA the brand is called SSR 250r ? Also called XMoto 250rr. Hope someone can give me some help. Sorry but English is not my main language... sorry for my errors. I have a video of me trying to start the bike this night... if it help I can upload... Best Regards Garcia (I live in the same country of the Dakar Bike Leader)
  13. Traded a 96 KX125 for this bike. In kinda bad shape, wasn't running when I got it. Plastics are complete trash, missing a few brackets and bolts, the swing arms been custom extended 6 inches and it comes with a few neat parts for it. The problem: Cleaned the carburetor thoroughly to brand new condition, all jets seem fine and clean. Put the stuff back together and the bike struggles to start. Backfires quite a bit as well during turning over: It blew the carburetor out of its boot before when it was a bit loose, and when it backfired through the exhaust it gave a good spout of fire. Usually comes through the carburetor though. When it does run, the idle cannot be set low. If its too low, it kills itself. But, it blows like a blue smokey haze through the exhaust, almost like a 2 stroke. The smoke does not smell of engine oil, but more of gas. Also when turned off and ran for a little, it tends to make like smoke tendrils come from the exhaust even when off, like a 2 stroke thats been running very rich and has been turned off. A friend of mine said that the valves need possible shimming, but I dont know how to do this... Any advice is WELCOME. Pics availble on request
  14. Hi I am hoping that you can help steer me in the right direction. I am certainly not an expert and based on my research it seem that the main jet should be increased to a 180 and the needle size adjusted but I am not certain what needle to purchase or if other adjustment should be made given the bike tends to still be running to lean. Any help is greatly appreciated. Bike: -2008 YZ250F Environment: -1200 ft elevation -Temperature 70-85 degree -Atlanta GA Exhaust: -Jardine RT5 Slip On -Stock Header Pipe Current Carb Set Up: Stock - Needle: NFPR - Clip set to lowest position 7 from top - Main Jet 178 - Pilot 42 - Leak 70 - Fuel Mix 2 1/4 turns Current Symptoms: Bog & Sputter when turning throttle 5%-20% range Engine Running Hot but improved with needle adjustment Back fire on deceleration Idle is good Past Symptoms: Bike only run when choked Bog sputter die bike could not be ridden Would not idle Running Hot Recent Work and Adjustment: Carb cleaned and rebuilt to stock Adjusted clip position down to lowest position which significantly improved sputter
  15. On my 2009 crf250x with opened up airbox, R exhaust, and jd jet kit has a mean decel pop and I have been told its because it's lean. I have also been told that it's lean if your hotstart doesn't bring the bike up to higher RPM's when you open it and ATM with a 41 pilot in, when you open the hotstart the bike dies. During the summer I was messing around with the fuel screw and at like 2 1/2 - 3 turns out, the poping on decel is nearly gone and the hotstart increases the RPMs, so I put in the next bigger pilot jet (41 to 43) and the bikes power delivery was messed up (no bottom end like a 125 two stroke) and the popping stayed. What is there to do if on the 41 with the screw almost falling out, the poppings nearly gone and the hotstart works but with the 43 (don't remember where I had the fuel screw at) the bike performs like crap and still has popping? I really need help on this. I have heard that the copper ring in the header might have worn down aswell as the smog pump could be a culprate too to the popping. Please help this popping is driving me insane and haven't gotten a straightforward answer yet.
  16. Hey again. Ok I bought a air striker carb and it came with Main-158 Pilot-45 Slide-7 Needle-n3wk I'm pretty sure from what I've read on here I need a 5.5 or 5 slide. I don't know where to get one of those. I can get everything else I need but where do I buy a slide from? Also any recommendations for where to start with the rest?
  17. Hi all, I was in a local shop the other day and a lad helping me out told me for ordering this carb I will need to buy the DRZ400 conversion kit (which TT store includes with the purchase.... Correct?) but, he also told me i needed to buy a new throttle cable in order to make it all work. Another thing he SUGGESTED not said i Needed was, A Hot start plug. He said the problem with this carb on drz is when you shut it off and go to start it while shes still warm then it doesnt start up due to some blah blah blah (dont remeber) BUT, he said to fix it simple purchase a hot start plug which is like a chock plug but used when hot insted of cold. What are your experiences/knowledge on these peices of advice? Ultimately I want to know, if the FCR 39mm Carb DRZ conversion kit (600$) from ThumperTalk Store, Is EVERYTHING I need install the carb and have it working and the bike running with all the improvements I get from this mod, to the fullest potential. Or, is there something else i need to purchase? Shes on shipping route as we speak and should be arriving next week 😛 👍 Thanks all.
  18. So I went to remove the hot start cable from carb and of course it was stuck. So I sprayed lube and yanked and yanked and the cable just ripped out without the plunger. I cant get the plunger out with pliers either someone helppp
  19. Can anyone tell me if this fuel mixture screw will work on my 2004 WR450? http://www.mergeracing.com/products/FuelMixtureScrew.php And is this the only place to buy it? I'm a little leery because I've emailed them twice asking this question with no answer. And if I order through their site, I'd hope I receive the part. Thanks, Mike
  20. I'm about to order my james dean jet kit, and I've seen some people say i would need the extended screw, others say that the jd kit come complete with everything you need. Which is correct? I plan on installing the jet kit and at the same time doing the 3x3 mod and installing an fmf header and slip on muffler, and im ordering a jet kit for my brothers as well, but he will only have 3x3 with stock exhaust
  21. I am new to this site , and have owned alot of ATVs performance and utilaty . I just bought my first two wheeler and love it so far . Soooo I am asking the question ...... What makes the DRZ 400 breathe better ? I do not want to go into the engine though , just bolt on .
  22. For any of you guys having trouble with the YDIS system, post it all here. Here's the Dutch Wikipedia entry for the YDIS (Yamaha Dual/Duo Intake System) Dit is een carburatiesysteem met dubbele carburateurs op Yamaha-ééncilinder-motorfietsen. Pas vanaf halfgas gaat de tweede constant vacuüm carburateur meewerken, waardoor de motor meer brandbaar mengsel krijgt. In de autotechniek was dit systeem al langer toegepast, bij dubbele- of dubbelwerkende carburateurs en tweetrapscarburateurs. Voor motorfietsen was de primeur op de Yamaha XT 550 in 1981. Wanneer er puur aanspraak wordt gemaakt op het gasschuif deel kunnen zeer lage verbruiken gehaald worden. Dit gasschuif deel is vooral bedoeld vanwege de gunstige wervelingen wat de cilindervulling bij lage toeren ten goede komt en de motor beter doet oppakken. I guess being South African has its advantages, so I quickly translated it: The YDIS is a carburettor system with double carburettors on Yamaha single cylinder motorbikes. From half throttle, the secondary constant-vacuum carburettor opens up, which allows more fuel to reach the engine. In the automotive industry, this system was used long before it was implemented in motorbikes, with double or dual-stage carburettors. Its debut was on the Yamaha XT 550, released in 1981. Yamaha has claimed that this system reduces fuel consumption at low RPM's, while still providing good performance at higher RPM's. The intended purpose for this system was to provide the engine with better response at low engine speeds, providing a smoother engine pickup. Getting two carbs to synchronize correctly can be a PITA, but once you get it set up correctly, it GOES!!
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