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Found 348 results

  1. 0 comments

    Absolutely love this bike. Ridden well for 10 years with hardly any mechanical trouble.
  2. 0 comments

    Have to get used to less power with the suzuki. The ktm was a beast.
  3. 0 comments

    Only had it one day so far, but I love it! I will post more as I get more time on it.
  4. 0 comments

    Love the bike since brand new. Only things I would like to see change are an update to it with a 6 spd, 450+ FI cc and possibly an aluminum frame.
  5. 0 comments

    Only 5 gears, keeps having charging problems. It's not bad, it's just not really good either. Uncomfortable on long rides. On good days it's a 5/5 just in fun factor, but on bad days it's really just a pig. edit: After another year of ownership it's still growing on me. Having less problems and more fun on it now that I've done some changes on it.
  6. 0 comments

    Have had a lot of bikes but this is the one I always keep. Just keeps running. The only bike I want to keep forever.
  7. Budget FCR swap for DRZ400, a new approach For those owning a DRZ power gains from an FCR swap may seem very attractive, until you consider the cost. The Keihin FCR MX carbs are expensive and used swap kits rarely sell for less than $450 on eBay. Prices for the Thumper talk kit and others are rising as Keihin has had recent price hikes. I talked to Mike at the Power Barn in early October, when I began my search, and he was out of 39mm FCRs. He told me once they were back, prices would be about 35% higher because “Keihin US had a massive price hike earlier this year”. Limited potential of the Mikuni CV36 means that if you want more power from your DRZ, and FCR is a must. If you have already made the 3x3 air box mod this and exhaust are the next logical step for your DRZ. For those looking for power there is another way to solve the problem without spending so much money. Two weeks ago I purchased a Keihin FCR MX version 39mm off eBay for $125. FCR’s without the removable intake are common on 4 stroke racing four-wheelers and dirt bikes. FCRs without the removable intake bell are identical internally to those with the removable intake bell. These can be obtained cheaper than those with the removable bell, hence the reason I was able to get mine for $125 instead of $500+. I did a lot of hunting to get one at this price, but they sell for $200-300 regularly. As an engineer by trade I was able to design an aluminum adapter to make this happen. For those on a budget this is a great option. If anyone wants an adapter to test on their bike, message me and we can work something out. Keihin FCR Basics So that you understand more about Keihin carbs here are a few details. Ø There are 3 body styles to the Keihin FCR: 1. Keihin Slant FCR 2. Keihin MX FCR with removable air boot. This is most commonly adapted to the DRZ400. The reference “air boot” is located on the air box side of the carb. 3. Keihin MX FCR without removable air boot. Not commonly used on DRZ400 but the topic of this discussion. Notice there is no bolt on plastic adapter on the air box side of the carb. Ø These body styles can have 3 option packages. 1. Choke 2. Choke and hot start 3. Choke, hot start, and throttle position sensor (TPS) Ø When trying to find the appropriate FCR you need to inspect for port size. When you hear about 37, 38, 39 or 41mm carbs the referenced measurement is the throat size as measured from the position of the flat slide. See the picture below, this is a 39mm carb. 39mm and 41mm carbs are most commonly adapted to the DRZ. The smaller the bore the more “torquey” the motor will be. Some have used 37 or 38mm carbs and had success. Any perform better than the stock Mikumi. Ø From my research 39mm carbs were available from the factory on some of these models: o 2003-2007 YZ450F o 2000-2009 KTM 525 XC four wheeler o KTM RFS 4 stroke motorcycles 450 and 525 o CRF450X Always ask your seller to take the appropriate measurement. Good reputable sellers will be happy to take your money, for the 5 minutes it takes to check their carb. What you need for an affordable FCR swap Now onto my FCR project. To adapt a FCR with non-removable air boot you need: Item #5, the FCR adapter, is the key component. This lets you take your carburetor without the removable air boot and make it the same overall length of the FCR everyone else uses. The adapter’s air box size matches that of the stock Mikuni carb and attaches well to the air box. On the carburetor side the adapter is slightly oversized (~.007”) for a good fit. I recommend using 3M weather-strip adhesive or RTV silicon to seal the junction. Keihn castings vary slightly and no two carbs measure the exact same, making this necessary. As a side note, I made one of these also from ABS plastic which I actually prefer. Being weaker than aluminum, ABS plastic adapters are a press on fit and you are ready to go (no sealer needed). Thanks to the TT community for jetting suggestions. My DRZ with stock exhaust is running the following jetting configuration. The fit of my carb with this adapter was nearly identical to the last FCR I installed on a friend’s DRZ. Below are more pictures. Please enjoy and share your thoughts. Here is one ABS adapter.
  8. Uh oh, I paid for a carb from keihin-fcr.com yesterday, then I came on here to do a search and found some bad things.. Has anyone had good experience buying from him? I talked to him on the phone and he seemed nice and explained the carb is full rebuilt and out of spec parts get replaced. I really hope I didn't screw up making this purchase, I was just trying to save some coin...
  9. Hello, I am having some serious trouble getting rid of the hesitation my bike has at a certain rpm. When I'm in 5th gear and going 96km/t and WOT it just wont go over the flat spot. Its like it doesn't pull at all, I have to gear down to get over the spot, but it doesnt pull very good in the top end either. Something is seriously wrong. I have tried to tape the 3x3 hole, tried to drive without the airfilter cover, tried 150 MJ, 155MJ, 160MJ, tried all different needle settings. Nothing seems to get rid of it. Any help is greatly appreciated as I am very confused now. Edit: Mods on the bike are: 3x3 mod and MRD ProComp exhaust.
  10. im sorry but i have searched many many time, im looking for the master install for the TT fcr39, it was at the end of this link but is now gone... /topic/562280-fcr-39mx-install-using-the-tt-kit/
  11. hi i am very disaponted with the fcr39mx i have a drz400sm BB kit full FMF. my problem is that yesterday night i have set the FCR39mx and the bike was really pulling hard with a lot of throttle response and it was pulling power wheelie in second gear and the temperature was 22 degrees celsius and this morning i went to work with the drz and the bike was ok but this afternoon it was sunny and the temperature is 28 degrees celsius and the bike was running like crap with no power like yesterday night and i tried to close the 1/4 the fuel screw but it doesn`t make a lot of difference i am very desperate caus i am always setting the carb. i have bought the carb 2nd hand from ebay and i have spent abought 350euros to refurbished it gaskets seals needles etc etc but i am fed up of wasting money on this carb i dont know what is the problem. i think i will buy the mikuni TM40 for the drz can anyone help me with some advice on the fcr and the mikuni TM40 please? thanks
  12. Hey everybody, my 250f is leaking fuel out of the overflow and I tried everything to get it to stop. The float needle seat is pressed in on my fcr flat cr carb I removed it with a slide hammer but the piece is junk. My question is, is there anywhere to get this pressed in seat?? I can't see to find one anywhere
  13. Anyone going to get the Galfer stainless braided lines that are on sale right now thru thumpertalk? How do you guys like them on the drz400s? Or drz400sm
  14. So I was looking at my carb closely today and checking tightness of everything. The hoses are beyond brittle. They have no give and feel like hard plastic instead of the rubber. Their color is dirty yellow brown resin like nastiness. I searched online but couldn't find a hose replacement set by itself. I saw carb rebuild kits with them but I need only the hoses. Anyone have any suggestions? Oh....it's for a 2003 cr250r
  15. Ok so it's an 02 drz400e with fcr 39 carb with two issues. First; At start up with choke applied it runs fine. As soon as you remove choke by pressing it in, returns to normal idle around 1400 rpm. Give it throttle a couple times and then idle gets raised(3200rpm) for a bit before coming back down. Sometimes it doesn't come down at all without putting the bike into gear and using the clutch to lower rpm and then it will stay down until throttle is used again. Second; Sometimes while the above mentioned is going on the carb starts to leak fluid out of the float bowl drain tube. When this happens I give it a little hit with the back side a screwdriver( plastic end) and the leaking stops then a couple mins later it happens again. So I'm thinking I have a sticky float. The carb has been cleaned thoroughly probably a total of five times by three people now, including myself. So I'm pretty sure it's not gunked up. Brand new accelerator pump diagram just install, found cracked upon teardown. So my question is what should I be looking at next? Float valve, float itself or/also float pin, or maybe something else I'm not thinking of... Would the sticking float be causing the high idle? HELP!
  16. I have had a lot of trouble getting the bike from a dead stop to moving in first gear without massive bog and stalling. Once the bike is rolling, shifting through gears is no problem. I pull the plug after 10 minutes of riding around and its wet and oily. I have repeated this process many times and i keep getting the same results. So i replaced the Spark plug and it fixed the problem for 10 minutes and then it became fouled again. I have adjusted the idle speed and that doesn't seem to help the bike. Does this sound like I need to clean the carb or what other problem could it be? The guy i bought the bike from just put a new top end in and he is running a 20:1 mixture. There is also a lot of black gritty discharge from the exhaust. I'm knew to dirt bikes so any advice helps. Thanks
  17. Hey guys, I've got a couple of questions about the jetting on my FCR 39 MX. i bought my bike already pretty modified with hot cams stage 2, full exhaust, FCR 39, 3X3, k&n. All my riding is at sea level in Sydney Australia. i took it to get dyno tuned as it was pretty boggy down low and was hunting up top. before i took it to get tuned i pulled the carb and noted the jets. They were: 155 main jet 200 main air jet OCEMN needle clip 2 40 pilot jet pilot air jet installed 2 turns fuel screw i told the tuner that it was a common mod to remove the pilot air jet, but he thought it would be better to leave it in there and tune with it installed as it was meant to be. when i got the bike back it was way more responsive and smooth. he said that it was running so rich he couldn't get a base reading. the changes he made were: 132 main jet idle 2 turns out idle air bleed 1turn out needle clip in position 1 i did a compression test after the tune as i was only getting 38hp and it was only 85psi with the valve clearances all in spec, so i took the opportunity to get a CW big bore kit and put that in, which is on its way from the states along with a moty lithium battery. my questions are, with the CWBBK i should get a 128 and 125 main jet to lean it out right? should i take the pilot air jet out? do the jets sound right for my altitude and mods? thanks for any help you can provide, James.
  18. Hey guys let me start off by saying thanks for the help. Ive been riding supe sports all my life but its gotten boring to me. I rode my buddies DRZ400SM and that was the start of a new addiction lol. Most fun ive ever had on a bike so I went out and bought a 06 drz400sm only has 5k miles. I cant decide what to buy first and I need yall help that's done this before. I want to get a MRD system but at the same time for another 100 bucks I could buy the TT 39mm setup. My question is which one would you recommend going with first and why. Again thanks for all the help.
  19. I have an 02' CRF 450R and when I was cleaning the carb I noticed that the main jet is a 185. In the book it says that it should be a 172-175 for where I am at. Why would the previous owner install a larger MJ? Also the slow jet is at 48 instead of 45... Just wondering if either of these 2 items would be the cause of my goofy idle.
  20. So my kx250f is still having the same stalling and backfiring/popping problem. I thought it was the carb so I took off the carb and cleaned it and found the 2 jets are a k35 and k 68. What do these numbers mean.
  21. Today I did a back to back test on a 42 vs 45 pilot jet. There was 3/4 of a turn difference between them. Tested with a tach for highest idle, 45 was at 1 turn and 42 was at 1 3/4 of a turn. Test conducted on a 277cc Honda Crf250r with a zip tye fuel screw 400' ASL at 58F. Thought this data may help someone when needing to change pilot jets.
  22. Hello. I bought the FCR-MX carb from the Thumpertalk store a while back and used the JD jetkit for it right away because I had good luck with the kit in the stocker. However, I felt I felt the carb wasn't at its potential. Last night I rejetted it back to the way it came from the Thumpertalk store except for a different needle and no pilot air. Right now, I have it at: 200 Main Air 160 Main 45 Pilot removed 100 Pilot Air EMN Needle Clip 3 from the top Weather is in the 60's right now, sea level. 3x3 and free flowing exhaust. Is this the correct settings for the TT FCR-MX carb? I ask because the JD kit says to leave the pilot air in, while I read in other threads that it is to be removed the way it came from the TT store if you're not using the JD kit or if the carb came off of another model bike. Aside from a drastic increase in deceleration popping, the bike runs fine. I can't tell if it's better now vs when I had the JD jetkit in or not. I can only tell it's "different". One improvement however is the fuel screw has an affect on the idle now whereas even if the fuel screw was turned in all the way with the JD jetkit, my engine didn't even flinch. Anyone else have experience with jetting this thing and what works best for them? Thanks!
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