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Found 348 results

  1. I am considering doing a MRD exhaust, 3x3, and jetting. Is there a noticeable performance gain with the FCR MX from the RR store compared to just resetting the stock carburetor? Thanks
  2. I have a 09 DRZ400SM which I did the big bore install on. I upgraded the exhaust and did the 3x3 airbox mod. It still has the stock carb. I'd like to upgrade to the Keihin FCR and see that the 39mm model is widely used. Is this also the recommended model for engines with the big bore installed or should it be the 41mm?
  3. I'll try to make it simple. I got the jd jet kit and I read the instructions a few times. It says it comes with a few main Jets but I got them out and I got a I need the 155 since I live at 1500ft.do I go up or down?
  4. Hi, I have an Suzuki DRZ400SM '07 bought last year. I had some issues with the power. I saw that i have an 3x3 hole but until yesterday i coudn't check the carburetor. I ordered JD Jetting and the fuel screw. Yesterday i took off the carburetor, changed the needle (blue one, clip on 4th position), main jet 155, pilot jet 25 and put the o-ring and the little spring from the old fuel screw to the new one. I didn't noticed the little washer on the fuel screw. It's important ? I'm ordering a new one. After putting all back together, i was able to start it quite easy. But when i tried to see if the fuel screw it's working, it's doing nothing. No chanhe in RPM or anything. After that i tried to rev it on Neutral, it had another engine sound, no more vibrations, sounded good. But my big issue was when i wanted to ride it. First gear, started rolling, then i wanted to accelerate it, and nothing, even at WOT ... nothing .... instead of being like a "raped ape" (seeing reviews here after JD Jetting) it's like a dead poney ... I'm located in Bucharest / Romania, low altitude (about 250ft - 60-90m) and in the summer it's quite hot here, about 100F or over (about 40C). Please advise about the jetting settings and maybe other issues .. can a bad jetting kill it like this ? Thanks 🙂
  5. Just finished installing a used carb. Im having some bogging issues from low-mid rpm. If you jump on the throttle hard it just falls on its face. if you ease in its fine. My Setup Sea Level 3x3 Air Box Fmf Power Bomb- Power Core 4 full exhaust Main:160 need:5/7 ocem n <- My guess on the problem Slow: 45 MAJ:200 SAJ:100 The TPS is wired in. Before i go and mess with it i wanted some advice to make sure im on the right track. when adjusting the fuel mixture i can turn it all the way bottomed out to the right before it starts to stumble
  6. CVK40 Installed! To start off, I got the Dynojet 2144 kit. I rejetted the carb, added the supplied needle and drilled the slide. All went smooth. Overall, maybe a little tougher to install than the FCR. The top cover of the carb that goes over the slide was really hard to get in place. It's really big around and there is a cross piece just below the rear subframe bolts that blocks the top of the carb. I used a thick screw driver to push the carb forward past that cross piece. That allowed the top of the carb to raise up and slide into the intake boot. After that is was smooth sailing. I used all the stock clamps and tubes. I was also able to get both throttle cables to install. They both work perfectly. Performance... I'd say down low, 1st and 2nd are a little better, but not that much better than the properly jetted stock carb was. I have stg 1 hot cams, and a BB w/ MRDprocomp so low end power is already there. Also have a 47 tooth rear sprocket. 2nd and 3rd gear power wheelie were easy to do anyway. The place where this carb really shines with my setup is 3rd gear and up. It pulls VERY hard in 3rd gear. Much harder than the stocker did. Maybe even more than the FCR did. 🙂 3rd through 5 are scary. Overall this mod was WELL worth $150.00 and little time.
  7. What's the difference between the drz400 e carby than the s or sm.. What's better in general and mostly in performance?????
  8. Hey, Picked up a used 07 YZ250F that has a Quickshot 3 installed on it. Can anyone tell me how many turns out the adjustment screw should be set at? I tried the Boyesen site but that's no help at all and I can't find the instructions online anywhere. I just need the base setting so I have a starting point. The motor is completely stock. Thanks-
  9. Or better yet get it installed. I acquired a 07 DRZ400s about 7 months ago. The guy included a brand new FCR39mx carb in the box w/ the sale. All the necessary parts are with it. He just never got around to installing it on the bike. I have got the yoshimura rs-2 exhaust, jet kit and the 3x3 mod all installed and love the power of the bike. I do mainly trail riding and some single track stuff up here in the NW. I don't feel like i necessarily need more power but definitely wouldn't dismiss it.. And since i already have the carb and parts, installation would be my only cost. Just wanted some opinions on this.. How much power increase would be expected and does it compromise any reliability? Everytime i go to my parts box i see the carb and think should i get this thing installed or sell it or just leave it alone ha?
  10. I posted here awhile back and people told me that I can buy a new carb and it would solve the problem...I'm looking for a cheaper method as a carb is like $200. My problem is the float in my carb. the level is too high and in order for me to ride it I have to turn the idle way down so the bike doesn't idle at all but it drives properly. If it is idling properly then the bike bogs bad when starting in 1st gear(getting too much gas) but the actual bike runs great, starts 1st kick blah blah. anyway was wondering if this would fix my problem, i mean for like $30 worth a try.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150582805145&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT#ht_500wt_749 Let me know guys, i would really like this bike running properly so i can hit the track!
  11. I have an 01 400 E model, I'm replacing the stock carb with the TT store fcrmx39. I have everything on except the &%$#@!ing air boot will not fit on the mouth of the carb. I have tried for 3.5 hours and the one time I thought it was on I tried to tighten the clamp and it fell off straight away. Am I missing something here?
  12. I will be buyin a Yosh full system aling with the JD Jettin kit shortly, I keep hearin members mention the Extended Fuel Mixture Screw by Kientech. Is this Required to do the full jettin? Or is this just suggested? WHats the benefits? Also I Will be havin a local shop doing the jettin is this screw easy install as well or will you think it might be an extra charge? Thanks TRavis
  13. Much has been written about the OEM Mikuni BSR36 carb, you can jet it, tune it, tweak it, but in the end, it’s still a CV carb, with limited potential. Used on on all S and SM model DRZ's. (plus late model E bikes in the US) If your reading this now, you have already decide the extra HP and better throttle response of a well jetted FCR39 MX carb was worth the price. That’s the hard part.. What follows, is much easier. Installing the FCR on to a DRZ originally equipped with the Mikuni BSR36 is not hard. Though some general knowledge of motorcycles and Carbs specifically is important, with the right attitude and understanding your install will be full of stop and go as you research, learn, and ask questions. Anyone with decent mechanical ability and basic tools can perform this install. The Thumper Talk Keihin FCR39 MX carb kitfits all DRZ's having a BSR36 carb, All S and SM models, and 2007 and later E model bikes. The kit includes: - 016-925 Keihin 39mm FCR MX Carb with choke (no TPS) - 021-216 FCR Adapter 2 3/8", carb to S airboot - 021-439 Adaptor O-Ring - 017-262 EMN Needle - 021-012 Airboot adapter bolts (2) - P/N 13111-29F00 OEM Suzuki E Intake Manifold - P/N 09402-58208 OEM Suzuki Clamp - P/N 13685-29F00 OEM Suzuki Vacuum Port Nipple Carb comes standard with the following: - 200 Main Air Jet - 160 Main Jet - 45 Pilot Jet - 100 Pliot Air Jet - EMR Needle Prepping the new Carb and bike for install Remove and discard the plastic throttle wheel guard, it will interfere with fitment relevant to the frame, and really is not needed. Move both upper motor mounts to the left side; this allows needed clearance for the throttle wheel The TPS connector will not be reused with the new FCR carb, you can follow the carb end up wiring to the connector and unplug it there. Use some dielectric silicone and tape to blank off the connector, you can cut the wires there, heat shrink or tape the ends, or simple stuff the carb end of the TPS and wiring harness up under the seat, zip tie it in place and leave it. Bottom line, it is not used for this install. If using a vacuum operated fuel petcock like the OEM one found on the DRZ S or SM, you will need to install a vacuum nipple in the manifold. Luckily there is a spot just for this and an OEM part to install. It is P/N 13685-29F00 OEM Suzuki Vacuum Port Nipple and included in the TT Kit Install the jetting required for your motor modification level and riding area. Provided are four common jetting setups. For many, that’s all they will need to do, for some, additional tuning will be required. Use what is here for a base, make a post as to what your bike is doing related to jetting you do not like, and let the experts help you through the tuning. be descriptive, and specific. Include your current motor and intake mods, jetting set up, altitude and temp where you ride. mods, jetting set up, altitude and temp where you ride. Basic Jetting sea level stock exhaust or "quite,96db,corked up etc aftermarket pipe", 3x3 - 155 main jet 200 main air jet EMN needle clip 3 45 pilot jet 2 turns fuel screw o-ring mod sea level,aftermarket pipe with open muffler- 160 main jet 200 main air jet EMN needle clip 3 45 pilot jet 2 turns fuel screw o-ring mod 4000-600ft,stock exhaust or "quite,q,96db,corked up etc aftermarket pipe", 3x3 - 145 main jet 200 main air jet EMP needle clip 3 45 pilot jet 2 turns fuel screw o-ring mod 4000-6000ft,aftermarket pipe with open muffler- 150 main jet 200 main air jet EMP needle clip 3 45 pilot jet 2 turns fuel screw o-ring mod In addition to the above or custom jetting, an extended adjustable fuel screw is highly recommended. Merge Racing makes a very nice one. What I like most about it is the Injection molded knob.. stays cool when the engine is hot, for easy adjustments. And because of its T shape is easier to grab with gloved hands and make adjustments. If not the Fuel screw from Merge, then any of the aftermarket screws not made from aluminum. Be very careful on the removal and install of the new fuel screw.. you have a small spring, washer and rubber O-ring that sits on the screw inside the body. One or more of these part sometimes remains in the body, and comes out haphazardly on the end of the old fuel screw. Very easy to lose one or more parts. The Fuel needle clip position is counted from the top, flat end of the needle. The needle pictured is in clip 3 position. Install tips No need to buy new throttle cables, the stock S cables work fine. Attach the throttle cables with the curved one on the bottom Hoses are routed like this It’s really not too short. People say this all the time due to the physical measurement between old carb set up and FCRMX being different, the FCR setup is slightly shorter. The air boot is plenty long enough. The preferred technique is to put the carb in the boot first. Then pull it forward to the manifold.
  14. What do you think about the Merge Racing Accelerator pump spring? It sounds like a good alternative to wiring the linkage shut on your AP. I havent noticed bog on my unmodded AP but I am curious.
  15. Sorry If I'm not in the right section, but I'll start with a little history. Brand new 13 drz400sm, Yosh rs2 full exhaust, 3x3 mod, new air filter. My gf bought me a new FCR 39mm Carb from procycle http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/drz400.html#fuel She didn't know about the TT kit..... Well either way got the carb bought the 3 oem pieces that i need according to the write on here. the e intake adapter the nipple gasket Also the carb came with no hoses so i picked up a blue set off ebay.... removed the pilot air jet per faq We got the carb installed and upon start up will only start with 1/2 or more throttle and choke. pulled out carb and checked fuel screw and it was 2 turns out. Reinstalled my manuel fuel screw same 2 turns out, same problem. So I was thinking a seal issue from cylinder to carb? Because it is definitely shorter but after 4 or 5 reinstalls getting it sealed better each time and same issue every time, I also am confused how to route the hoses for 3 of the nipples, I have the 2 facing away from each other, That i thought are supposed to be vented together with no kinks, But i also have another nipple directly under the choke that i have no idea if thats just supposed to go to air or inline with another vacuum, I installed the nipple to make the vacuum petcock work but i have kept in on prime to rule that out, I was thinking that the jets could be wrong but i thought it would still idle at least just run somewhat poorly it sounds horrendous and back fires a ton. it will run with 1/2 throttle but after about 2-3 secs idle dies and won't restart unless you pump the throttle. Also my fcr looks different then most pics i have seen so idk if i have a new model or something or if the mx style is different. So my question is any thoughts on the problem? or anyone have experience with the carb from pro cycle.us that can confirm that is a difference? Sorry about the ramble if you need any clarification on something please ask. I will attach pics of the carb and install, The pics are from the 1st or 2nd install with still a decent gap on the carb/head seal. I have since fixed that but don't have updated pics, Bike is at friends shop. Thanks, Mike
  16. I ordered an fcr carb from him for my drz400sm over two weeks ago and haven't received it nor Have I been able to establish a solid conversation with him. I've called the shop 20+ times and emailed him another 15-20 and I've gotten the run-around when he replies. Over a week ago he responded saying one of the parts was back ordered and would ship out later that week. Which was last week on Friday was11/22. Since then I have emailed him multiple times and called the shop as well and no response. Is eddie still in business does anybody know? I've been very patient with him but I'm getting to the point where I'm going to cancel the order. I know he might be really busy and I understand but all I'm asking for is order confirmation and confirmed shipping. So with that being said, eddie where you at?
  17. Alright, so I am currently doing some work on a 2005 Honda TRX250EX that, according to the owner, has a 450 carburetor on it. I am personally unaware if it does because I don't know how to spot the differences. The work I'm doing is with the carb though. It has a severe leak through the bleeder. Its clearly an overflow leak that I am assuming is a bad reed within the carburetor itself. But my current issue is that I detached the throttle connector to the carb, the little screw in top piece with the pin inside of it. And since then every time we start it, it is stuck full throttle even without the throttle being touched by anyone. The cable is being pulled to open without anything doing it. And I would like to solve this issue without going to a shop and dropping money, because at the moment I do not have a source of income. Please and thank you for any help. - Thomas
  18. Holy Schitt ... the FCR with stock exhaust (did not have enough time today to do both today) completed transformed the bike. Wheelies in first and second are just a quick flip of the wrist. I am glad I did not waste money and time trying to rejet the CV carb, those things are about as useless as tits on a Boar Hog... And the noise, that wonderful intake noise it brings a smile to my ear..it even chirps one in a while... Carb came with everything I followed this link for install and it was right on the money on first start up. http://www.thumperta...ing-the-tt-kit/ Only have one issue and that is it does not return to idle as fast as I would like it to, might be b/c of the stock pipe. I will get the MRD SSW on this week I hope.
  19. Been trying to help Berg1947 who is struggling with a carb issue and aware of many posts over the years requiring carb info especially airscrew adjustment and location advice. So I've scanned a few pages from the manual that relate to this particular subject to help Berg and fellow DRZ enthusiasts in the future 👍 Remember if you want a copy of th ewhole manual see seperate thread on DRZ Service Manual /forum/showthread.php?t=638995
  20. 0 comments

    Fresh top end on the ole dirt scooter. Excited to document my build. Been slacking but I’ll get it started
  21. Alright, same thing as the 200. Here ya go. See if you guys have better turnout than we have had. lol Year: Model (E,W,XC,M): Carb size (38 or 36mm): Slide: Main jet: Pilot Jet: Needle model/Clip position: Altitude where you ride: Reeds: Pipe/silencer: Head mod: Other mods: Type of fuel: Where in the powerband do you ride (Lugger - for technical stuff, or wide open - desert / MX): Degree of satisfaction: And finally: how much spooge 1) none, 2) little, 3) medium, 4) lots: Notes:
  22. Just rejetted stock machine and did Dave's mods. Bike fired right up. What a difference... However, when I first started the bike it was idling much faster than it used it. I turned out the idle screw about 4 full turns and it seems to be idling fine now. Is that normal after the mods I just did? Also, does the fuel mixture screw change the idling speed in any way?
  23. So you have a bike that is not running. Maybe it is a bike that you have had for years and it has just been sitting or it is a bike your looking at for sale but the owner states "ran when parked" meaning, it doesn't run now. As a matter of fact the latter is how you can generally get a great deal on a bike and with this article and video you can take advantage of that non running bikes low price. Typically the reason a bike was running and now isn't is usually fairly simple. Most problems can be traced to the fuel system, probably causes is fuel was left in the system creating a varnish like substance when the lighter elements of the fuel flashed off. This leaves the small passageways clogged or plugged resulting in inconsistent or no fuel flow. There also could be minor ignition issues but usually that is rare, more on that later. Lets get back to basics. Click on the Getting a non running bike running video to see an in depth video of the procedure outlined below: Step 1 Evaluate the bike, is it missing crucial parts for it to run? If not start the dis-assembly for cleaning and inspection this includes the fuel tank itself. If it is missing parts, locate or source the missing parts before going further as this will minimize delays further in the process. Step 2 Fully disassemble the carburetor and fuel shut off. These are the most common places that the problems will originate as well as where most of the debris preventing proper fuel flow and metering will be found. Step 3 Clean, clean, clean, and more cleaning. Carburetor dip is a good idea for the carb body and other related parts. Just remember to remove any rubber or fiber parts as carburetor dip may "eat" or dissolve them. Step 4 While your carburetor parts are soaking check out the ignition components. Replace the spark plug, it is cheap, and will rule out a potentially faulty plug of unknown condition, refer to a service manual for specific testing if you have a "no spark" condition. Most "no spark" conditions can be traced to a kill switch wire grounding out at the handlebar or somewhere along the harness. Step 5 Reassemble the carburetor returning all the settings like the float height, jetting specs, and air/fuel screw (depending on which it has) to the factory specs found in the manual. Re-install the tank and fuel shut off. Attach the fuel lines use clamps when necessary. Fill the tank with a little bit of fuel open the tap and check for leaks and/or a flooding carburetor. Step 6 If the previous steps were done properly attempt to start the bike. Be sure your in neutral and have your hand on the throttle and kill switch for safety so you can shut down the bike should something happen.
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