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Found 348 results

  1. Originally Posted By: PA_Kevin in the TTR forum. Jetting 101: Question: I thought my Yamaha TTR 125 would idle without the choke. But with when the choke was off it would not idle. But the opposite happened with the choke. Is there any particular reason for this? Answer: Your carb meters the fuel to your engine. The carb has three different sub systems: Pilot Jetting - for up to 1/4 throttle position Needle Jetting - 1/4 > 3/4 throttle position Main Jetting - 3/4 > full throttle These jets allow a fixed amount of fuel, the needle allowing an "operating band" of fuel metering. To alter the amount of fuel, you can either increase or decrease the orifice (the hole in the jet). This applies to your pilot and main jet. The needle jet is actually a needle. The fuel first passes through the main jet, then the needle limits the fuel flow (kinda like putting your pinky finger into a garden hose. Water still comes out, just not as much). The reason your bike won't idle: Fuel Screw The Fuel Screw is mis-labeled in the Yamaha manual. It is labeled as an "Air Screw". This is 100% backwards. Air screws are on two stroke carbs. The last I checked, this carb has been on this 4 stroke engine. The fuel screw allows more fuel through the pilot circuit. This very definitely affects low speed operation. To allow more fuel flow or richen up the bottom end, the fuel screw is turned counter-clockwise (or turned OUT). This IS richening up the bottom end. To lean it out, the fuel screw must be turned clockwise (or turned in). The problem with this low speed/idle jetting is it is too lean. The only time I think you would turn it in is if you decide to ride your TTR into the Rockie Mountains, where bikes are starving for air, which ain't there! Pilot Jet First, your pilot jet is absolutely too small. You need to go up in size to a 17.5. The fuel screw on your carb allows a VARIABLE amount of fuel to pass through the pilot jet. This fuel screw WILL ABSOLUTELY affect your idle. The fuel screw has a spring behind it that allows you to turn it without it falling out of your carb. Turning it in REDUCES the amount of fuel (leaning the fuel/air mixture) and conversely turning it out INCREASES the amount of fuel (richening the fuel/air mixture). The bike IS starving for fuel at idle because the pilot jet is too small. Regardless of the fuel screw position, your bike NEEDS MORE FUEL. If you end up turning your fuel screw out 3 turns or more, your pilot jet IS TOO SMALL. Needle Jet The needle jet can be changed as well, or raised or lowered. So far, I have not seen any recommendations to swap out needles. Needles vary in diameter, AND taper in size, i.e. the tip of the needle is skinnier than the diameter half way up the needle. So as the needle is being pulled up, the needle gets skinnier. This allows MORE fuel as the needle is raised up via the throttle cable. There is a clip on the needle that allows you to raise or lower the needle, effectively changing the amount of fuel flowing in this 1/4 > 3/4 throttle position. So, if you move the clip down, this effectively raises the needle. Since the needle is now higher in the carb, and we know the needle is skinnier at the bottom, MORE fuel will pass through in the midrange than before you moved the clip. As for swapping out the needle, the skinnier the needle, the more fuel allowed into your engine. Main Jet At 3/4 throttle and higher, the ONLY thing metering fuel is the main jet. If your bike has problems at wide open throttle, the main jet is your culprit (unless it's your ignition...???). A larger main allows more fuel. When you modify your bike, i.e. cut your airbox lid, install a high air flow airfilter, you are changing the amount of air into the engine. When you install an aftermarket exhaust pipe, more air (exhaust) is coming out of your engine. In BOTH of these conditions, you MUST increase the fuel going to your engine to offset the air going into (or out of) your engine. Moving more air means you have to move more fuel. Elevation & Weather Changes When there is a change in the weather or riding elevation, the amount of Oxygen or moisture will be the culprit. At higher elevations, there is less O2 available. You will need to jet lean to decrease the amount of fuel to compensate for the lower O2. If it is humid, there is MORE water in the air, you MAY have to jet lean. In the winter, bikes run lean. Because of the lower temps and humidity, there is more O2 due to density changes. Your bike will run lean, and you will benefit w/ RICHER jetting. I hope this helps you understand carbs better. If you have ANY recomendations/comments/questions to IMPROVE or DISPUTE this post in any way, please PM me. I am wide open to critique!! Kevin
  2. When installing an Edelbrock carb on a Honda XR650R, one thing that should be done is filing down the front right corner of the carb. If this is not done, the sharp corner can rub a hole in the bottom of the stock gas tank resulting if fuel loss or worse. It only takes a few minutes to do, the carb does not have to be removed, in fact, it is easier to do with it installed. File only enough to remove the sharp corner, the integrity of the clamp will not be weakened, and by doing this, your pig won't become a fireball out on the trail. Special thanks to Dafna for taking and posting photo's.
  3. El Cheapo Partial Header Wrap - An Edelbrock installed on a Honda XR650R rests painfully close to the stock header. One cheap method of isolating heat from the bowl is to pick up a muffler patch kit from your local auto parts store. These kits contain a piece of foil backed fiberglass insulation, screen and glue (the glue you don't need) and sell for under five dollars. A can of flat black header paint can be used to spray the foil and screen and stainless steel zip ties will look better than the tie wire I used. After cutting the insulation and screen to size, I wrapped some heavy duty aluminum foil around the header, followed by the fiberglass, then screen, then tie wired it all together. The wrap in the photos has been on the bike for 2 years and other than needing some spray paint touching up, is still working fine. The fiberglass insulation will soak up water, so after washing your bike, be sure to run it long enough to burn off any water collected. Special thanks to Dafna for taking and posting photo's.
  4. 1 review

    Pilot Jet Type: Keihin Size: 58 Thread dia: 5 Length: 28 Slot Head Dia: 5 No of bleed holes: 8 Size range: 35 to 80 Size steps: 2 & 3
  5. 1 comment

    baught used with 1300 KMs with several mods; Yoshi rs2, zeta, B&B, skid plate, DRC tail, mirrors. The bike was starting hard (apply some gas), so I went ahead and got the fcr and did the 3x3 airbox mod. followed by the hotcams and mcct. I am overall happy with the bike. It came with dot approved knobbie tires, I ride mostly street so next on the list is street tires.
  6. 4 reviews

    Easy access to the fuel mixture screw allows for easy adjustment without a screwdriver.
  7. 1 review

    The stock Suzuki DRZ Mikuni carburetor float bowl screws are easily stripped out, causing headaches for many owners. This simple kit solves the problem once and for all.
  8. 2 reviews

    The inventor of the easy-adjust fuel screw and Moose Racing bring you this needed accessory 7075 T-7 aluminum construction and re-designed pin taper set this screw apart from the competition Adjust your carb for better off-idle acceleration with just your fingers Includes O-ring, washer, and heavy-duty spring Made in the U.S.A.
  9. 12 reviews

    Square-type slide carburetors have increased air-flow metering at low engine speeds Smooth-bore design cuts down turbulence in carburetor throat for better throttle response and power delivery throughout the RPM range Provisions to install power jet included on 38mm TM series bodies are designed to accept Power Jet Kits, which prevents leaning out during extended full-throttle running Bore: 36mm Spigot Mount: 43mm Main Jet: 130 Pilot Jet: 12.5 Needle Jet: T84-13002 P-8 Throttle Valve: N/A Jet Needle: 9DZH6-50
  10. 1 review

    Patented air vane requires no modifications to install Acceleration gains from idle to wide-open throttle Dyno tests show 2-5 horsepower gains and 4-6 ft.-lbs. max torque increases on OEM H-D engines Independent tests were conducted on 88in, 96in and 110in engines Complements popular air filter system upgrades Made in the U.S.A.
  11. SS109

    Gas Gas XC 250 (2011)

    0 comments

    This is actually a 2011 GasGas EC250 Racing and not an XC. Anyway... Last of the small framed GG's! These bikes fit my short self better than any other bike I have ever ridden. Really like the styling and the little details that most don't think about that this bike has. OEM it comes with a hydraulic clutch, dual ignition mapping, Galfer rotors, Vforce III reeds, 2k3 stator, an actually useful headlight, and a lot of smaller details. I'm really loving the 48mm PFP Zokes up front and the Ohlins 888 shock. The forks are plush without feeling mushy and vague. The shock, well, it's Ohlins! Just dial it in and it works great everywhere. This bike has a lot of bells and whistles added by it's previous owner (Thanks Ricky D!) along with a ton of extra parts when they're needed. Currently equipped... BRP bar isolators/Scotts damper setup, Renthal twin walls, Fastway barkbusters w/Cycra shields, MSR pegs, Lectron carb, Rekluse Core EXP 3.0 w/matching billet clutch basket, Emperor Racing radiator cages, RB head mod, LTR powervalve cover, FMF Gnarly pipe and Q4 Stealth silencer, carbon fiber pipe guard, Renthal 13t CS sprocket, Supersprox 48t rear sprocket, No Toil dual layer air filter, Twin Air billet air filter cage, bib mousses front and rear, Kenda Parker DT's front and rear, and I'm sure I'm forgetting a thing or two! Now, for the only things I don't like. The seat reminds me of a KTM it is so hard but instead of a 2x4 like KTM it feels more like a 2x6! 🙄 The other is how the air filter locates on the air box. You have to be really careful to get it seated correctly. Next mods for me are Tubliss on both ends and Goldentyre Fatty 90/100 up front and a Shinko 525 cheater 120/100 rear. Also have some smaller diameter Scott Deuce grips coming as well. Hopefully this will complete the mods I want to make and I'll be ready for the upcoming AMRA racing season. Overall, I'm really loving this bike and thinking I will be enjoying it for years to come.
  12. 0 comments

    **2018 KTM 300 XC** (TT is behind on their model year options) Amazing quality and performance. Best bike I've ever owned just in the short time I've had it. The engine felt a little meh with the stock Mikuni carb, but now it breathes fire with the 38mm Keihen. It's gonna be hard to go back to riding a big bore 2 stroke without a counterbalancer. When was the last time the suspension was a strong suit on a katoom?!? Let's just say I can no longer use the SSS argument to defend my Yamaha... Ktm has raised the bar and changed the game with this one!
  13. 0 comments

    Getting there, not a rocket stock, not a rocket modded either but a lot of fun to ride.
  14. Kenpo1

    Yamaha YZ250 (2008)

    0 comments

    It's a two stroke, so it's awesome. FMF Fatty pipe, Turbinecore 2 silencer, No toil filter, IMS footpegs, Fasst Flexx bars, Fastway system 3 stabilizer, Tusk Impact rims and hubs, Hammer head shifter and brake peddle, WR 3-5 gear conversion. Oversized front wave rotor with Galfer steel braided brake line, Tusk aluminium throttle tube w/ bearing, Acerbis front disk guard and roost guards, TM design works rear disk guard, chain slider and chain guid, E-line carbon fiber skid plate, Tusk case saver, Z rear brake clevis, suspension done by Stillwell performance, Lectron carburetor and 2012 YZ450 triple clamps (22mm offset).... I think that's everything. <br /><br />Oh, pictured with IMS dry-break ready tank. I went back to stock after getting the Lectron carby! <br />
  15. 1 review

    The 7602 Racing T6 carb vent filter system not only gives your bike additional bling appeal, it restricts dirt from entering your carburetor and doing expensive engine damage. The T6 uses a mid-line foam filter, enclosed in a CNC machined billet aluminum housing, to provide filtered air via the breather hoses. The T6 filter kit includes 12′ of high quality polyurethane tubing, billet T6 filter housing, a spare filter, and instructions.
  16. 9 reviews

    Keihin FCR (Flatslide CR) Racing Carburetors Following in their tradition of high technology and performance, Keihin’s latest carburetor design for racing is the FCR designed for downdraft engine design use. Features include a flatslide throttle operating on roller bearings with progressive linkage for smooth operation and control. Smoothbore venturi for maximum air flow. This is the ultimate racing carburetor for use on downdraft engines as found on many popular sportbikes destined for serious competition. Along with the highest level of technology available, the FCR’s have proven there advantage with race wins around the world
  17. 2 reviews

    The SmartCarb® from American Performance Technologies is the direct result of more than 45 years of development of the single-circuit flat slide carburetor. Its pedigree comes from the long line of William H. “Red” Edmonston American-designed carburetors, including the Lake Injector, Lectron, Pos-a-Fuel, Ei Blue Magnum and Quiksilver. The SmartCarb combines all of the best features found in earlier flat slide, variable venturi carburetor designs. It incorporates design features perfected by APT and not found on any of its predecessors, making it a real world solution to satisfying a variety of emissions regulations and OEM performance requirements in small engine applications. The SmartCarb embodies numerous APT-perfected design features that provide extremely fine fuel atomization, precise air/fuel mixture control and ambient air density compensation. All of these innovative features are delivered in a single-circuit, flat-slide, variable venturi, jet-less carburetor. APT is currently focused on the offroad 2-stroke powersports market, offering 36, 38 and 40mm Performance Series SmartCarb sizes. Production of the second run of billet Performance Series Smartcarbs is nearing completion and release. Investment Cast design and production is ongoing, with the first run of Investment Cast SmartCarbs due to be released in May 2013. APT is fortunate to have had critical feedback from its network of real world SmartCarb test-riders during the design and development phases of this game-changing technology. This feedback has been invaluable in helping us to present the SmartCarb to the market as a complete product, without compromises on performance.
  18. 0 comments

    I give five stars because the bike does everything i have asked it to do. When you purchase one of these(Mine is not factory SM), you have to do a fair amount of research into it. Its not a speed machine, it wont power wheelie through all gears. But it is a blast to ride, good on gas, fun to hooligan around on, its light(relatively). I came from an '09 R6 and a Vstar 650 cruiser- ive been on the slow and on the fast..this bike is amazing.
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