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Showing results for tags 'CarburetorsAccessories'.
Found 348 results
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None needed. -
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Awesome bike! Everyone should atleast ride it once! -
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Love It...best bike I've owned yet -
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Love the XR400R, powerful enough for me and after changing the spring and shock rate it is a great bike with lots of potential. I ride mostly single track in Thailand and I need low maintenance bike, that can easy handle extreme temperatures as well as extreme terrain, it both handle both very well -
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Good all-around bike. Could use a bit more power. -
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I like this vehicle. -
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I love the DRZ. It is a pig and not the best performer, but I will rebuild this bike over and over before I ever sell it. -
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The first, and last bike ill ever buy! (besides maybe another DR) -
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I love this bike so much that I rebuilt it completely from one end to the other, inside and out! -
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sucked stock but is now a monster. Being rebuilt -
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So much fun I got another one... -
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Looking for info CR flat slide 5GS2 10NF 02 to fit to Honda NX 650
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So for many months I, like many DRZ'rs, have contemplated getting a larger, lighter, non-metal gas tank. Safari tanks are real nice, but a little too big for what I need, and 2x the cost of the others... Clarke tanks just look hideous to me. So I am resigned to looking at the IMS models, or a Rotopax setup for my rear rack. Many people have differing gripes about the IMS tanks in the fit & finish, so I am kind or still reluctant to pull the trigger on one. I am never too excited over the 4.0 gallon, as I like the look of the stock shrouds, plus it seems like a good bit of gas hangs out below the petcock in the shrouds of the 4 gallon IMS. So I kind of settle in on getting a Rotopax, or the 3.2 gallon IMS tank. And then after asking around a bunch of different places I am told (and not sure I believe) that the closest color match that IMS makes to my yellow '04 is the Y3 color--or what is often called "neon yellow" I am not sure why this color information is so tightly guarded! Still not real pumped or convinced about what I want, I do what many would. Troll eBay, TT classifieds, CL, Amazon, and all the online spaces. $250-280 for the 3.2 gallon IMS tank. I search many weeks with part #'s, words, phrases, different words...... Probably just gonna go with the Rotopax, right? Then last Friday, while doing my "usual" part # trolling my decision was made for me! And it looks like I can afford the Rotopax too if I want it! (see attached pic of receipt) Now after I discovered this great deal I ordered immediately! A few minutes after my confirmation came in I went back and looked once more, (so I could share the love with TT DRZ bros) It seems whatever price mishap occurred had been corrected. So here it is, right color, brand new, authentic item, fast & free delivery, best price available. Question is: Am I gonna get some kind of bad Juju or karma from this? Or was my patience and tenacity justly rewarded? Either way--I think I can get over 100 miles between stops now.
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- Body
- GasTanksAccessories
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What do you guys use to clean the carburator?
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Just opened it up in preparation to get started with jets and needle set up. I am somewhat bewildered by the fact that there are no markings whatsoever on the jets, needle or slide. I have some misc. Keihin jets kicking around, and they all have the size and some with the Keihin logo stamped on them. Is it that the newer models/parts are no longer marked? Or should I be concerned about the authenticity of the carb manufacturing. (i.e. clone) Everything about it looks authentic, including the box and part numbers. BTW, intending on putting this on a basically stock 2004 CR250. With FMF Fatty, FMF Shorty muffler, V-force reed cage and a +10 oz. Steahly fw weight. Running 50/50 91 pump and Sunoco GT260+ at 40:1 Bel-Ray H1-R. I haven't checked squish yet. Got tired of fighting with the stock Mikuni. Could never get it right. Close, but not the way that I think it should be.
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- FuelAir
- CarburetorsAccessories
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Hello everyone! I'm currently running into some tuning issues with my drz. Here's the Down low. Set up: Elevation about 800ft above SL pro circuit t4 slip on Fmf power bomb header Cylinder works big bore kit TT Fcr mx 39mm kit EMR needle 2nd clip from top 200 main air jet 100 PAJ removed 45 pilot jet 160 main jet R&D flex extended fuel mixture screw 3X3 mod Long story short. Bike ran and idled fine with fcr set up with the 100 pilot air jet installed. Except for a lag at higher Rpms so. Pulled it apart to do some tweaking and decided to take out the pilot air jet. Now I cannot get the bike to idle consistently with any combination of fuel screw or idle speed adjustment. The bike idles for a bit then dies and sounds like it misses while idling. Thanks in advance for the help guys!
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Now for the fancy part. Our engineering group just bought a 3D printer so I made my own custom perfect fit adapter. It is solid plastic. I can't say for sure how well it is going to hold up but initial test are promising. Gasoline/ carb cleaner seem to have no affect on the plastic. It is winter here so I haven't got any real world field testing done. There are several differenet types of plastics that can be printed so I might want to try a few different prototypes. Anyone who wants the file, pm me and I will send it to you. If you know someone who has a 3D printer have them make you the part. We have the "Makerbot 2" it took 6-1/2 hours of printing time to make it solid. You will need to file off the lip of the carb in order to install the printed adapter. I used RTV sealant to glue it on. It's a snug fit, even without the RTV it's hard to get off the carb. I used DOT-COM's Jetting suggestions and it runs great. Thanks for all your hard work buddy! 158 main 45 pilot NCVT needle 3rd clip from the top leak jet is still stock - I think it is something like #65 Here is the total parts list and pricing. 2007 CRF250 FCR MX --- $130 Shipped - Ebay 2007 CRF250 Tusk throttle cables $14 -- Rockymountainatv FYI --- 4" longer than stock XR650L cables but will fit the XR650L housing. The longer cables fit much better. No binding or Stretching when turning. Hot Start Button OEM parts 2007 RMZ450----Rockymountainatv 13410-35G10 STARTER VALVE | MODEL K5 $18.88 XR650L intake boot -- $23 shipped --- Ebay Jets Prox brand from -- Rockymountainatv -- $15 NCVT Needle OEM parts 2004 YZ450F --- Rockymountainatv TA-14916-VT-00 NEEDLE (#NCVT) | $9.37 Custom printed part Freebie!!!! Total Cost $210 give or take a little If you have any question let me know. I will do my best to answer them. Enjoy the new found power. *UPDATE* 5-1-14 A few members who have done this upgrade have reported that the gas tank was interfering with the top of the carburetor. Due to possible variations when buying a used carburetor or if you are using the stock tank or an aftermarket tank, this may be the case. It is very easy to remold or push in the area on the tank that is the problem. Firstly remove the tank from the bike and drain all the gas, leave the cap off and let it air out for a few days. Mark the area that needs clearance. This next step is very important, only use a heat gun to heat the plastic tank, this is the only safe way to gradually bring the plastic up to temp until it is soft enough to deform with some applied force (palm of your hand). Do this slowly moving the heat gun in small circles to gradually bring the area up to temp. I used a heavy pair of leather work gloves to push on the area I needed to deform. Once you get it to deform hold it there for a few minutes until it cools and sets. Put your tank back on and check the clearance repeat as needed. If you need more clearance and don't want to deform the tank additionally, you can cut a piece of 1/2" thick rubber and glue it to the rear rubber tank / frame bumper. This will raise the rear of the tank just enough to get the clearance you need. I am also still making the adapters for members who request them. If you want send me a PM and I will get back to you asap.
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- FuelAir
- CarburetorsAccessories
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I'm on strike 2 here but thankfully this isn't baseball. The reasoning and my history. If you haven't figured it out yet I've done a crap load of work on these motors over the last 7 years but they have had 4 wheels around them. In the EX world there are a lot of carburetor options and although many are great there's a cheap alternative that runs 95% as hard as the high dollar options, some even liking it better then aftermarket. When I joined up here in the 2 wheel club I was shocked that the only accepted option was $400 for a 36mm Mikuni Pumper that isn't any bigger then stock! That cheap alternative for the EX is an 04-05 trx450r carb. It's 42mm round slide Kiehin piston-valve with accelerator pump and a mildly modded 400 loves it with a surprisingly strong bottom end yet. Yes I said 42mm! So as I build my XR4 I already know that I'd be shooting myself in the foot if I settled on a 36mm carb because I like bigger bores and cams and this motor likes bigger carbs. Makes sense, it is 400cc. Don't get me wrong though, the Mikuni is a real nice pumper for a stock bike and would seem fine on a well modded machine too but this 4 stroke is like every other one in the world in regards to when you go big inside, you want to go bigger outside or you're missing out. Whether the info is appreciated or scoffed at I'll post up my findings one by one as I try to find viable alternatives. When I say viable I mean still being able to use the stock environment and not needing a ton of work. I'm sure collectively this is not a new idea to search for such a beast but I enjoy a good project and I like cheap alternatives when they produce results. Currently the "test bike" is a 2000 Xr400r, snorkel removed, Uni filter, stock engine, stock headpipe and a 4" supertrapp slip-on with 11 discs.
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Jetting 101. Jetting can be tricky to get down and understand 100%. Here is a video I have used in the past, he does a great job of showing how all the circuits overlap, etc. please feel free to add your thoughts and experience. This will help newer riders understand jetting a little better.
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I took my yz for a little ride through the yard today and the fuel screw back out and fell off. The previous owner had rtv bridged across the screw and carb to keep it in place. I understand why now. Well when I went through the bike I removed the rtv and now it backs out. I also bought an oem fuel screw but kept the one that came with the bike on it because it's easier to adjust. It's the knurled thumb screw type like msr and I think ziptie? Makes. Any ideas how how keep it from backing out besides using rtv? I put a new spring spacer and O-ring in it already. Thanks Dennis
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Just got a rm 250 I was told it is jetted real lean for elevation 5000 ft he thought it was about 165 I'm going to ride at elevation 1500 ft ish what adjustments should I make?
