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Found 348 results

  1. Just bought 2006 yz250f and its my first dirtbike. Definitely notice a change in performance based on temperature. (As you should) Also it wont idle long at warmer temps 60+. How much of this can be contolled with the fuel screw? Or is the jetting my issue? Thanks!
  2. Hey there Fellow Riders!!! I've been meaning to do this write up for some time and now after getting married, starting a new job and giving a home to very high demanding 60lb 6 month old German Shepherd I am sitting down and not getting up until I've finished my review and feedback on the Lectron Carb regarding my 2002 CR250 Build/Project. My goal is to give you some great insight from a lifelong rider who has grown up racing motocross and riding singletrack since I could walk. I have an obsession with 2 strokes and more specifically the Honda CR250's. I've got a few videos to give you a better idea of how the Lectron Carburetor performs, sounds and works. This started when I sold my 2006 YZ125 (some of you may recall here: /topic/1050344-project-2006-yamaha-yz125/ ) and had my eyes set on building a green sticker 2002 CR250. When I first got the bike aside from the obvious cosmetic issues the bike started first kick and rode less than great. I tore into the Mikuni TMX Carb that comes on the 2002 CR250 and got all sorts of jet sizes for the thing. First I put jetting back to stock to the following; Air Screw: 1-1/2 Slow Jet: 32.5 Needle Clip Position: 2nd Jet Needle: 6BEY30-74 Main Jet: 380 This left me with a squishy bottom rolling into a strong mid that fell flat way before the bike should have. I played around with the needle, the pilot and the main only to become frustrated over three days. I started googling what others have done to mitigate this issue. Others that had finicky carbs suggest a few things but the Lectron Carb kept coming up and I had never heard of them at the time. I did some more research and even spoke with David over at Lectron to see what made their carb better than the Mikunis and the Keihens that have saturated the 2 stroke offroad market thus far. A huge pain point that Lectron's design cures is the fact that the carb "auto-tunes" to compensate for things like altitude changes, pipe swaps, porting, reeds and any other thing that you would usually have to "re-jet" your carb for so that your bike continues to run crisp. Here's how they do this; Lectron uses a single fuel metering device (AKA Metering Rod). This one device takes the place of a pilot jet, intermediate circuit, and main jet found in a conventional carburetor. This one metering rod is equivalent to approximately 10 main jets in a conventional carburetor. A couple weeks later I ended up with the Lectron 38mm Short Carb at my doorstep. Installation took me about 45 minutes (mostly because of my poor mechanic skills when it comes to the boot fitment) but once I got the carb installed turned the gas on the bike fired up first kick. Just a note, some bikes like my CR250 are required to order a different throttle cable as well because of the length differences. Lectron sent me a package setup with the carb, throttle cable and a Motion Pro throttle tube. I gave the bike a few minutes and rode it down the street to let the carb "adjust" itself to my bike's setup, altitude and humidity. After that I played with the idle setting for a couple minutes and the bike ran better than expected. The carbs range from a reasonable $300-$600 depending on which carb you need for your bike and if you may or may not need a throttle cable and housing too! After considering the two carbs I had gotten as well as all the jets/time and jet kits I got the price seems fair. www.lectronfuelsystems.com So... The SETUP: 2002 CR250 Lectron 38mm Short Carb w/ standard metering rod Pro Circuit Works Exhaust Pro Circuit R304 Shorty Muffler/FMF Turbine Core 2 Spark Arrestor (for Public Parks) 30Plus2Suspension Setup VForce 3 Reeds/Cage Stock Head/Cyclinder Wiseco Piston/Rings Stock Clutch First Impression: First ride out was at Hollister Hills in California. Elevation ranged from 600ft - 2,500ft. The bike starts FIRST kick always, which is awesome. The bike had no idling issues when I would have the clutch in or while it was warming up before the ride. When I first rode the bike onto the track to get warmed up I instantly noticed how much more crisp and how much earlier the power came on from the bottom compared to my TMX and Keihen PWK Airstryker Carb. The power deliver became somewhat less explosive and unpredictable and much more useable and smooth. My lap times were cut down a few seconds a lap because of how much smoother the power delivery was. So instant bottom, smoother transition the mid hit and the overrev up top was noticeably longer and stronger than either of the two other carbs. After some time on the track I went out for some singletrack loops to see how the low end would work out on the tight stuff. There was no longer a hesitation or slight sputter as I was rolling through the tight technical trails in 1st and 2nd gear. Clutching become a little less necessary since there was not as intense of lurching going on when the bike was in low rpm's on super tight sections. Since the first day out I have taken the bike riding from areas at nearly sea level up to the Sierras at over 5,000 ft elevation and a range of 40 degrees to 90 degrees Fahrenheit and just as it says on their website, the Lectron has run consistently well in all conditions to date. I have owned a handful of very good running two strokes previous to my CR250 and though they ran smooth when I had jetted them properly, I had to adjust the jetting constantly since on tracks I would run a different exhaust setup than when I was at Public Parks and if I left the track or local areas to go ride with my dad up in the Sierras the bike would run horribly unless I changed out the pilot and main and reset the needle position. I know these things can be done but I am a huge promoter of the time and effort the Lectron saves me as I ride many different regularly. Now for the fun stuff. Here are a few videos to help provide a visual and audio as to how my bike rides with the Lectron Carb installed. The YouTube clip is raw so that you can really hear how the bike sounds and how smooth the power delivery is and the other video was more for fun and is filmed at Zaca Station in San Luis Obispo CA. Some Raw Audio/Footage of singletrack and track lap Pro Circuit Works Pipe and R304 shorty: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDkB4ZisFIA&feature=youtu.be Footage from Zaca Station w/ FMF Gnarly/Turbine Core 2 setup: http://vimeo.com/105097579 Short Edit on first day with the carb at Zaca Station: http://vimeo.com/105622018 For those of you interested in the bike and carb itself here are a few shots of my baby! Please feel free to shoot me any questions about my experience and/or add your own comments about my review! If you would like to get in touch with David let me know and I can shoot you his contact info for questions/ordering. THANKS! BRAPPPPPPPP
  3. Hello everyone, I finally got my cam timing and valves adjusted. I was the member who started the recent post regarding a loss of power after the big bore, hotcams, and FCR carb install. Now that that is fixed, I want to know if anyone could tell me how to change the main jet in my FCR carb? It is the newest model, I ordered it from the ThumperTalk store last month. I currently have a 160 main jet in there, and I believe I ordered a 150 and a 153 main jet. I was told that because of the big bore, I need to drop my main jet due to the vacuum. Can anyone tell me how to change the main jet in the FCR? I heard it's pretty easier, I just don't know where the main jet is/how to change it. Thanks!! Brandon
  4. I just bought a 2005 yz250f I live in Missouri and it's cold right now. When I first got it I could start it on the 3rd or 4th kick cold with the choke out and no throttle. There were a couple days before where it warned up in the 50s and it would start first kick. The other day my wife and I were going to ride so I filled the tank with 110 octane (the previous owner said he never ran less than 93 in it. She had a little accident so I never started it after I filled the tank. The next day after that is when I started having problems. I Had it running but only with the hot start pulled back the whole time and choke wide open if I pushed the choke in it would die and if I let off the hot start it would die. I changed the spark plug and cleaned the air filter. I'm not really good with dirt bikes but I'm learning as I go. Any tips or suggestions?
  5. I did a search and could not find a answer but I just want to make sure. I can get my hands on a FCR 39 off of a KTM 520 1. Can I even use it? 2. If so could someone guide me to what I would need. 3. Would I be better off buying the TT kit? I can get it for $150.00 if that makes a difference. Thanks guys.
  6. Which do I want to add after I rejet and/or put on the FCR? Which is better? Thanks for any input. Or is there another adjuster that is more recommended?
  7. Am contemplating this option for my bike in lieu of a FCR. Would welcome any comments, either positive, or negative as to it's reliability and performance. I've read several threads, both here and on other sites, and I think this makes a very good intermediate addition to the DRZ. It's not the full blown pumper carb, it is vacuum oriented like the stock Mikuni 36, but it does offer a larger orifice for when you crack the throttle. It should retain most of the good gas mileage requirements I want to keep, but it still offers up some addditional giddy-up when needed. It is not a pumper carb, I know that, but beyond that, what good or bad things do I have to weigh? So, having said all that, I have a 3x3, full Yoshimura exhaust, CW big bore kit and E cams. I am at 4,000ft. elevation and most of my rides are up to higher altitudes v/s lower. If anyone has specific jetting settings, that would really be appreciated, and or any other "trick" thing I should do. Thanks everyone!!! Thanks, Wayne
  8. I am confused with milage of my bike (07-SM). Previous owner made 3x3 so I can't compare with original milage and performance. But I think I am having problem about milage. In city use I may reach 50~55 mpg whe I use slow and normal. And it reduce when opened throttle to ~44 mpg. BUT! for long trips I can't pass ~47 mpg. I am driving 68~78 mph (110~130 kmh) mostly and it fall reserve after 80~85 miles every time. I was expecting to get ~125 miles(200km) in total(inc. res.) with these speeds. I checked fuelly.com, there are a lot of 52~58 mpg(4~4.5 lt/100km) values. So I wonder what is your milage. Or how changed your milege after 3x3 mod?
  9. I just took off the bowl to replace the supposedly stock leak jet size 70 with a 50 to help with the off idle bog. The stock is a 35 on my bike. Anyone have experience with this? Should I still try the 50? All the recommended jetting and air box mods have been done.
  10. hi I ordered a mrd z-pro exhaust and also bought the quiet insert my bike is a 2013 drz S model I have done the 3x3 air box mod, rejetted with jd kit, using a 155 main jet, adjustable fuel screw and I live at sea level and am wondering if I install the quiet insert do I need to re -jet the carb again to the 160 jet or fiddle with needle setting or will I be fine with the 155 for now? is that considered a corked exhaust? I am eventually going to try to get the fcr carb and I pull the insert at that time and wanted to just leave it for the moment if I can. will it be ok? surely someone has already done this and has the correct answer thank you
  11. Hey folks, Just mounted the TM40 on my Drz. Took some messing around but I managed to get it to work. Had to order the pipe between carb and intake from the E model as well as the petcock. Time to jet, I have a FmF powerbomb header, Q4 pipe, 3X3 mod, K&N filter. I have never tuned a pumper carb before but besided the accelerator pump is everything pretty much the same? Currently I'm trying a 25 pilot jet 2 1/4 turns on the fuel screw, 165 main jet. I think its slightly on the rich side but not enough to fowl the plug. My concern is I still get decel popping but only from 4th to 3rd and 3rd to 2nd. I though a 25 pilot would have been to big... also I am wondering about needle posistion. I have it in the middle, would raising it one notch eliminate my popping by allowing more fuel when the slide is closed? Elevation is 300-400 ft above sea level.
  12. I posted this on smj but figured id get more help here. I have an fcr39 mx on my drz400sm. full yoshi exhaust. I took the carb of again to see exactly what jets I had. I also checked the spark plug and it was bone white.... Emn needle on the middle clip. 4th I think (it was on 3rd from the top but I raised the needle to the 4th when I put it back on) main jet 160 pilot jet 52 starter jet 72 pilot air jet 100 main air jet 200 fuel screw at 2.5 turns air box with a 3x3 hole When I put it back together I noticed the boot clamp was too loose even when tightened, I just got a new one and now the fuel screw is at 2.5 instead of 5. so I assume that's why it was so bad. It doesn't miss at all when idling now, unless I turn on the choke, then it sounds like it is missing a lot. should it be making the engine miss like that when I use the choke?
  13. Sorry to start another one of these, i see them everywhere and always check them for answers to what I've got going on and have yet to find one, so i decided I would ask and hope some jetting gurus could chime in and give me a hand, currently for my bike: 05cr125: stock reeds fmf fatty- powercore 2 01 yz250 38mm A/S swap - TPS wired in Main: 175 Pilot:45 NECW needle - top pos slide #7 100ft above sea level Its fine up until about 1/2-3/4 throttle, then it minorly bogs, and spews a lot of smoke, i dont get any spooge anywhere but the end of the pipe, and most the time its not really a dribble, its splattered around the outer ring of the silencer, occaisionally i will get a drip or 2, but most the time its a splatter, the plug color is like a "medium" in dunkin donuts, not the ideal coffee color, but not black, an in-between, its been like this for a while, worse originally though, when i bought the carb it had a 180-main 52-pilot NECW-3 down, and still the #7 slide, i was thinking just drop the main, i was going to go right down to a 170, or should i go 172 first? all help would be appreciated
  14. I have a '05 DRZ400sm that is bored and stroked up to 469cc with a Keihin FCR39 carb installed. It runs and everything but i think the jetting need to be changed as is very rough and around 65 it likes to "burp" for lack of a better term. Im no expert and even less so when it comes to carburetors but with some advice im sure i can get over me carburetion phobia. Im fairly proficient when it comes to wrenching so help me out guys. Also i plan on installing the Hot Cams on my bike and the MRD Z-Pro system. I currently have a full scorpion system so i dont think the exhaust swap will make much difference however i am concerned about if i will need to adjust the carbs again for the cams. SO what jets should i be at? Is anyone running a similar setup that can guide me in the right direction here? Also my bowl is leaking so should i take care of that before i worry about jetting?
  15. So put in the fcr from TT and the JD jet kit 3x3 mod and she is hesitating real bad soon as I get on the throttle. I ride in cold weather below 50 all the time blue needle top clip the #45 air jet and 155 main any also ride at 4500 ft on up
  16. I bought this motorbike second hand a while back, ever since it had a strange idling problem, it would idle up high in its own. I tried changing the air fuel mixture to many different setting but it never seemed to do anything. so i just learnt to ride it how it was, but only recently i was checking the tappet clearance it was all within specs. i also checked the cam chain, it was one tooth out, it should be 17 pin but it was 18 instead. changed this to specs. put it back together and it runs even worse than before, it wants to miss \back fire into the carby. I'm sure the previous owner/s had been into the engine before, and have no clue what they have done, the cam chain may have been on purpose? would this have affected the engine idling high or not properly? another thing i noticed was the slide in the carby had excessive wear, and i was wondering if air could be getting sucked passed this when the slide is closed and causing it to mix with fuel vapors making it idle high? If you can help or have any information about it please let me know thanks. I don't really want to take it to the shop as its only a muck around bike.
  17. I finally pulled the trigger and bought a 40mm FCR off of E-bay for $124.00. I had all the pilot and main jets to do the work from previous carbs (same pilot and mains for PWK's). I had to order the leak jet and the needle. Followed DOTcom's jetting - it was perfect. NOT CLOSE - I MEAN PERFECT!!!!!! Rode in the woods this Sunday for 123 miles - hardcore woods stuff. Mud. logs, rocks, water crossings..... That carb never missed a beat. Sometimes over real rough terrain, I could get the stock carb to burble and miss a little. Probably due to slosh in the bowl. This carb has the baffle in it - so no issues. I always thought the stack CV carb with Dave's Mods was good - and it was. But the FCR is SO MUCH BETTER. It is very snappy with the accelerator pump, and it pulls great. I will never go back. I have done a lot of mods to this bike, and tjis is the order of preference I see: #1 Mod USD Forks on the front. Best mod ever. #2 Mod The revalve and re-spring of the rear shock. It had to be done to match the USD forks on the front #3 Mod FCR Carb. I resally love this mod - and is my #1 engine mod to date - but suspension trumps engine in any type of rough terrain. #4 Mod Relaced the back wheel with Excel rim and spokes. It is not a perfoemance mod - but I kept loosening the Honda spokes to the point I woukld have to check the tightness after 2 rides. At that point - many were loose. I cold live with that - but after I cracked the rim - it was time. I laced and trued it up my self. Not real hard - just take your time. #5 Mod TuBliss in the tires When it is super muddy in winter, the ability to drop to 3-4 psi is great. It allows the knobby to really hook up - reduces wheel spin a lot. The knobby works great on logs, rocks and roots, even when wet, at low pressures. I have not run a trials tire, but ride with guys that do. On the wet rocks and roots, the 6-7 psi knobby grabs as good as their tires. I think it is more to do with pressure then tread pattern - just my opinion. #6 Mod XR650R sprockets on wheel and countershaft. The counter shaft sprocket I changed the day I bought the bike. My bike has well over 10,000 miles on it and the splines look perfect. The rear XR650R sprocket (have to change bolts and slightly drill out the sprocket bolt holes) allows 39 to 53 tooth sprocket choices, and a lot more brands of sprockets. I gear my low, so first is real low, and second is very usable. I do not have mine on the street but to get from one trail to the other. 14/50 combo still allows freeway speeds, though it is buzzy. But - in the dirt - it is totally awesome! Really like it. Any further mods are fun, but did not do a whole lot. Taller fat bars - stronger than stock and allows me to stand Slip on exhaust - eye candy - but not much else. Rear rack - good for the chain saw for trail work Others as well - but nothing competes with mods 1-6.
  18. wil the merge racing fuel screw fit in a o7crf 250r and also fir in a06 yzf 450? thanks.
  19. 18 reviews

    PRODUCT DETAILS Total air flow through an engine determines it’s maximum BHP. So to increase engine output, either the airflow capacity must be increased or the fuel/air charge burned more effectively. The primary obstacles to getting maximum airflow into an engine are the carburetor, intake manifold and port. We will deal here with the air/fuel charge and how the Lectron Carburetor can enhance this. In an engine a rapid repeating sequence of controlled explosions in the combustion chamber creates the power. The carburetor must mix the air and fuel in the correct proportions to obtain an optimum air to fuel ratio. The carburetor creates this air/fuel ration by responding to the vacuum created inside the manifold of the engine. The design of the Lectron® is focused on two primary principles: “AMPLIFY” the fuel pick up signal. “UTILIZE” the amplified fuel pick-up signal to create a more efficient burnable mixture. The bore of the Lectron® carb is not straight, but incorporates a taper to increase the air velocity. Maximum air velocity is obtained at the point where the patented metering rod vaporizes the fuel with the passing air. The bore then increases to allow the vaporized air/fuel mixture to flow freely to the engine intake ports. The Patented Metering Rod The metering rod, which vaporizes the fuel, is located behind the air cut-off slide; therefore it is directly exposed to the manifold pressure of the engine. In most other carburetors the needle is in the center of a round slide or on the end of a flat slide, therefore keeping it out of the manifold pressure. The increased air velocity in the venturi aids in creating a stronger fuel pick up signal at the fuel-metering rod. The air flow moves more rapidly past the needle in this taper bore design, more so than in a conventional straight bore carburetor. The metering rod serves three important functions: 1. A fuel signal generating device. 2. A fuel delivery metering device. 3. An air volume density sensor. Fuel Signal Generating Device The shape of the metering needle in itself is a fuel signal-generating device. The flat side of the needle in a High Velocity Chamber, enhances the fuel pick up signal. The metering rod accomplishes this by creating divergence. This divergence is similar to the low-pressure area created by an air craft wing, which utilizes low pressure to create lift. The Lectron carburetor uses divergence to create “Fuel-Lift”. Fuel Delivery Metering Device The shape and contour of the ground surface of the metering rod controls how much fuel is allowed to be drawn up in response to the extremely strong fuel pick-up signal. The various numbers of the metering rod relate to the depth of the grind at various throttle positions. The depth of the grind determines the amount of fuel delivered. The metering rod is one smooth continuous profile that eliminates “Flat Spots” often found on conventional carburetors with multiple overlapping fuel circuits. The metering rod does not contain transitions from idle to mid-range and wide-open power, but rather provides for a smooth consistent throttle response. The fuel pick-up signal at the base of the metering rod is twice as strong as found on conventional carburetors. This extremely high fuel pick up signal relates to instantaneous acceleration, created by a fuel surge when the throttle is snapped open. The shape of the metering rod compliments and enhances the fuel vaporization process by carrying the fuel signal and fuel vapors all the way up the length of the metering rod. In this manner fuel vapors are spread over the entire distance of the carburetor bore. The contoured side of the metering rod creates a fuel vacuum “wick” whereby the fuel vapors diverge from the metering rod starting at the base and continuing to the top of the rod. This allows a more efficient burnable mix to be created with all the air entering the intake manifold. The contoured side of the metering rod creates an extremely low-pressure area at this point, which results in the fuel being broken down into a very fine vapor. Most other carburetors lack such a device to create this. These extremely fine vapors are easily dispersed up through the bore of the carb. The finer the vapor the more efficient the burnable mix. A more efficient burnable mix will result in more horsepower and better fuel economy. Air Volume (Density) Sensor The combined affect of the metering rod acting as a fuel signal generating device and a fuel delivery metering device allows the metering rod to also act as an air volume (density) sensor. The ability of the metering rod to “sense” the air volume and density of the air flowing past it enables the metering rod to mix the proper amount of fuel with the air at a wider range of temperatures and elevations. Both air temperature and elevation affect airflow volume by weight. As temperatures decrease air becomes more dense and heavier. The denser, heavier air will pick up more fuel when passing the metering rod due to the signal generated at the rod and the shape of the rod. Conversely, as elevation increases less dense or thinner, the lighter air will automatically pick up less fuel by weight while still maintaining the optimum air/fuel ratio. THE SIMPLICITY The beauty of the Lectron Fuel Management System is its ability to “read” the fuel requirements based on air flow volume (density) and temperature to automatically provide the proper fuel/air mixture. Naturally there are limitations with any designed metering system. The Lectron carbs are able to operate in a much wider range of applications, temperature, and elevation due to their fuel vaporization efficiencies. Changes to operate beyond the wide range are simple and easy to make with a screwdriver and changing the metering rod. Changes do not require the removal of the float bowl. Depending on access to the carbs, the carbs do not have to be removed from the engine. All adjustments are made from the top side of the carb. Thank you for taking the time to understand the Lectron carburetor. Kevin Gilham Lectron Fuel Systems
  20. 0 comments

    Bought the bike for 1800 Oct. 2013 with 20 hrs on it. <br />Had qs3 <br />moose adj fuel screw<br />No-Toil Power flow kit<br />Renthal chain Blue Sprockets<br /><br />I have added so far:<br />Graphics off ebay $40<br />My old racing number plates I kept from previous bike<br />Fly rim decals $30<br />Attack Pleated grip seat cover $40<br />Stainless steel oil filter $17.88<br />Black Pro Taper Contour Bars<br />Two Extra Air Filters <br /><br />I have but need to Install:<br />Blue Silicon Radiator hose kit: $12.06<br />Motion Pro T3 Clutch Cable: $37<br />Billet Hot Start Nut: $13.95<br />2010-14 Genuine Yamaha Front Fender (new in package) $20<br /><br /><br />On the list to get:<br />Hot Cams<br />Aftermarket Exhaust<br />Tires<br />Asv Levers<br />
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