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Best bike I've ever owned, originally purchased fall 2006. -
I've got an 06 CRF250r. I might as well use a 2x6 with as hard as the foam is on this seat. Within an hour down south is getting pretty sore. Any recommendations on a good comfortable foam replacement? Thanks.
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On Their site they list the following options. Carbon / GripperEmbossedAll CarbonStandard Black VinylSuede (+$100.00) How do i know what to get, what does everyone on here usually get? pics would be great, im surprised they dont have pics on the site to show all the different fabrics/finishes/looks. I also heard that they have different foam densities? is this true? Just want to make sure i am gonna order the right thing, dont want o make a mistake, thanks... M8'tes.
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I like the bike a lot and I can't wait to put more hours in, then eventually modify it once I know how it is stock. -
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I've added over $4k of modifications to this cycle shortly after purchasing it. I'm intending this cycle to be a dual sport in purpose, and a USA BDR rider in particular. So, it will see freeway roads and speeds in excess of 75 MPH with hours of seat time slabbing it. It will also see sketchy two track and possible some single track, mud and for sure, some deep sand. So, *lots* of different conditions will be in view during the build, and as you consider the mods I make, please keep in mind my purpose for this cycle. Everything is a trade off, a compromise. Including cost. For instance, I did not / will not add a Rally tower or Rally type lighting. It's just too darned expensive for my purpose. But, I *am* big on protecting the cycle from hits and drops. So, I build out a layered approach to protection, with an eye on weight since I'll have to pick it up when I drop it. I'm also big on protecting *me* in these various environments. I can do something about the (my) body protection with various clothing armor pieces. I try to be seen, too. So, I'm big on lighting up the front, back and sides because drivers need to see me as best as I can make that happen. Sure, BDR riding does not need all that lighting. But, getting there and connecting the trail bits via roads *does* need it. So, it's on there. I referenced a lot of other folk's builds, picking out the pieces that I thought would be beneficial without adding too much weight, cost, or just too "blingy" for my taste. Kudos to Rocky Mountain ATV.com, and ADVPulse.com for their build descriptions. I also bought from KTM Twins.com, but I'm not very happy with that experience (returns take forever, and they dinged me for a lot of cash, for doing it). Probably not buying from them, if I can help it, anymore. Have a look... -
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I started getting back into dual sport riding on my big, heavy 2005 Triumph Tiger 955i and wanted to explore trails and single track. Needing something smaller, I bought a Yamaha XT250 and had a blast running that little bike around OHV areas, but it was a bit too small to load up with camping gear and ride any distance on the highways. It did boost my trail riding confidence enough to sell it and buy a Suzuki DRZ400S. I love the DRZ, it does everything the XT250 did and more at nearly the same weight. -
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Street legal in AZ, this 450SXF. Started with trail ready, kept going to full street legal. Easy to get plated in AZ. Pain in the ass and expensive to do all this on MX bike, but mad fun to have the 450SXF on the trails, open desert and bush. TBT suspension Rekluse Auto Core EXP Fastaway System3 Overbar Steering Stabilizer Fasst Flexx bars Baja Designs Squadron Pro LED Headlight Rear LED tail kit from EXC with (exc rear fender swap) 70 watt upgraded stator Promoto Billet black kickstand Trailtech Striker digi gauge Seat Concepts low seat Moose Racing front fender dual sport pack Moose Racing rear render velcro cylinder pack Doubltake fold down mirror ProMotoB Billet rear rack - black Fastway linkage protection TrailTech radiator fan kit Bulletproof radiator guards Bulletproof chain guide/swingarm guards Ricochet skidplate FMF muffler Black Excel rims Cycra handguards Orange Anodized unbreakable levers OdiLock grips DirtTricks sprockets and Did gold series chain Warp 9 adjustable rear brake pedal with flexx Warp 9 gear selector with flexx Fastway Adventure footpegs Tm designworks chain guide Padiator - rear brake radiator -
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I love it. Faster than I can ride it and just feels good both on a track and on the trail too. Perfect the only thing I wish for is electric start but not hard to start really. -
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Recently I sold my CRF250L due to taking a new job with a 104 mile daily commute. I again almost purchased the WR250 but I decided if highway comfort, simplicity, and displacement were my prime concerns that the WR would still not fit my needs. Out of the shop I noticed that it was idling too low and stalling quite a bit. The bike easily reached 80mph for my ride home even though at this speed the vibrations were killer. I rode on it untouched for about 2 weeks and practically paid for expedited shipping from seat concepts. My other first impression of the bike was wondering where they had time to go to home depot and replace the seat with a 4x4 post. The other complaints were the rubber mounted stock pegs that made you feel like you would slip off standing up and the cramped peg location in relation to the seat and the bars. I mean it is cramped for me at 5' 8" 29 inch inseam. Where my last bike became far more fun in the woods the DR felt... a bit much to handle. The stock tires earned their reputation of the name of deathwings being far less capable than the GP22's that came stock on the 250L, yes I missed the GP22's. The rear suspension was thankfully significantly better and only required some dampening adjustment. The front suspension comparatively to the 250L was far far far worse. If you were to mix the rear stock suspension of the 250L with the front of the 650 you would have created the most poorly suspended bike conceived by man. After going from my Racetech setup on the 250L back to whatever Suzuki calls suspension I felt a bit cheated. Now here came the real test was a 329 mile back roads ride from Austin to DFW and back. (my preferred motorcycle proving ground) The average speed limit was still 75 posted and same as last time I was glad I invested in my seat concepts low seat. The bike easily plodded along at 70 - 90 mph with little complaint or trouble minus a bit of excess arm pump and vibration in my right hand. In strong cross winds the DR650 was a bit better planted but the front end due I guess to its horrifically poorly designed nature introduced more wobble than the 250L and with tucking down in wind made the ride a bit harrowing. This go around I was shy on cash and spent my first $270 on bars, grips, seat, and peg lowering kit from JNS engineering. (I also sprung for a 16T front sprocket to mitigate vibration at high speed) I could not repeat could not have made any trip over 50 miles on the stock garbage seat without reconstructive surgery on my rear. The massive upside to this bike is the ease of work on it. A valve job for instance is 4 tools and about 3 hours of work and the best part is no shims just an old fashioned tappet adjuster. The other real test was arriving at my old stomping grounds in Decatur TX at rocky ridge. This is where the 650 showed me all of it's additional weight feeling nearly unwieldy with the exception of its lower reach to the ground. My lap times which were 28 minutes modded 32 ish minutes stock on the 250L climbed up to 36 minutes on the 650 with the mixture of nearly unusable front suspension and god awful tires. At the minimum before another dirt trip this bike will have new tires and front springs. Stock for stock on the Street/ Highway the DR650 substantially outperforms the 250L but in the dirt the 250L is a good bit better for the job. As far as modding goes however I think I can achieve near if not better performance from the 650 with less money. Right off the bat for instance front and rear suspension will run about 600 to 700 less than a Racetech setup for the 250L so time will tell if this review flips. I had about $2400 into the 250L and as of this week about $307 into the 650, even if I go all out with suspension, pipe, and pumper carb I would only be out $1300. Food for thought. -
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Having not hit the trails or an enduro for the better part of 14 years I decided to pull the trigger on a 2015 CRF250L, I almost purchased the WR250 but the price and my credit kind of pushed it out of the running, not to mention that I tend to be a bit short 5' 8" and the WR felt like I was climbing a minor mountian. To preface the last time I rode 2 strokes were legal, and a fuel injected bike didn't exist. At any rate having recently gotten my 93 DR350 running but lacking a title to go street legal I opted for the CRF. Out of the shop I noticed that it was for lack of a better term kinda nutless. Here in Texas many of the backroads are 75 mph so it is somewhat harrowing to push the bike that hard. <br /><br /> <br /><br />I rode on it untouched for a month, I did like my commute gas bill going from $44 a week in my truck to $5.44 every 2 weeks on the Honda. Where the bike was a pure joy to ride was the woods. No you won't be climbing mountians on it but it is so nimble in the woods vs the old DR. The suspension and stock tires are a bit hard to deal with but honestly who in their right mind buys a dual purpose with the intent of nailing doubles at the local MX track. I have kind of gotten a bit out of shape and still the stock suspension suits my needs. To be honest I like how it dives a bit in the turns. The real test was a 329 mile back roads ride from Austin to DFW and back. The average speed limit was 75 posted I was having trouble holding 70 and about 100 miles in thanked god I changed the seat. In strong cross winds the higher center of gravity is a bit harder to deal with. I also noticed it seems to run a bit hot especially on your left knee as the fan kicks on. I was a bit afraid of overheating but Captian Slow plodded along. (yeah I named the bike after James May on top gear UK) If you are shy on cash and you have $300 to pick any mods I would stress the 13t sprocket, seat, and handgrips. You will thank yourself so will your rear and hands. After it's paid off I plan to go full on modding.<br /><br /> <br /><br />I finally dropped a bit of money into it (not the warranty voiding variety)<br /><br />I went to a 13T front sprocket (made all of the gears useable with the 14T i considered 4th gear an option and nigh useless)<br /><br />got a seat concepts low profile seat (yeah I am short 5'8" and 210 lbs...)<br /><br />Tusk Fat bar with adapter<br /><br />Holeshot pad for a gps / smart phone<br /><br />Tusk hand guards<br /><br />Protaper Pillow grips<br /><br /> <br /><br />This notched the comfort level up a good bit, I wanted new suspension and the FMF but I like my warranty and after a full bottom and top end rebuild on the DR I don't feel like turning a wrench on my commuter.<br /><br /> <br /><br />Pros:<br /><br />It is cheaper than the competition.<br /><br />5 year warranty for $400, yeah that is nice.<br /><br />Gas mileage is not the 73 it claims it is closer to about 56 - 60 but still...<br /><br />The Service intervals, it is a cheap ride if you take care of it.<br /><br />It is a good bike if you trend shorter<br /><br />Nimble in the woods<br /><br />It runs well on 87 octane actually mine seems to prefer 87...<br /><br />Brakes are pretty darn good.<br /><br />I have to say it but it is a good looking machine stock.<br /><br />The clutch has a 1 finger pull, easiest I have ever had.<br /><br /> <br /><br /> <br /><br />Cons:<br /><br />It's power is underwhealming even vs a 22 year old air cooled 4 stroke.<br /><br />The stock seat is like having a 2x4 wedged up your crack<br /><br />The stock bars and grips transfer excessive vibration and cause a good deal of arm pump.<br /><br />The stock 14t front sproket makes the bike run a bit jerky especially in lower gears.<br /><br />Since it has a fuel pump and fuel injector I fear running gas out on it will end up torching the fuel system.<br /><br />The low fuel indicator comes on at half a gallon left and is very touchy with slopes.<br /><br />I think the idle is set too low from the factory and it likes to stall.<br /><br />The clutch feels like it does not fully engage ever.<br /><br /> <br /><br />Conclusion:<br /><br />If I could go back in time and pick a different bike as a dual sport I would petition Honda to make a 450L, none of the other offerings are in my price range or near as a complete package as a 250L. The WR is nicer off the floor but for the price the performance isn't a lot better (got to try a friends) The Suzuki was almost my choice but it had a bulkiness to it I didn't quite like and was too tall. Anything 650? No thanks. I would still walk off the showroom floor with the same 250L. Update: Stage 1 mods, very fun I can now accelerate in a headwind. Decided to go back to stock gearing since it is my commuter and the stage one gave it some balls. Saving up for a racetech or YSS rear Racetech front suspension rebuild. If the tax return is big enough this year maybe I can pay it off and 305 it as well. Man I don't think I could like this bike more except I got to try a road legal 2015 WR450L that well makes me kind of wander, then again even with all the mods the CRF250L still comes out $700 cheaper also the seat height on the WR would make me have to carry phone books in my riding pack. -
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Love it. Lots of torque, decent fuel consumption, comfortable for long distances, cargo capacity ... Sold it in 2017 at 163k miles. -
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I love my Beta 520RR -
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Great bike in stock form, and even better once you have done a little setting up. This bike has to have the best ergo's of any dirt bike I have ever ridden. Works a treat in tight single track in spite of it being such a "big" bike. -
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So far I like the bike it is low on power and heavy the weight doesn't bother me though, its fun to throw around and since I mod everything that I own. parts are cheap and have a lot of support and options -
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Killer ride so far, Coming from a klr 650, its half the weight, double the suspension and double the fun -
As many, if not everyone, have agreed. The stock seat isn't good for long trips.(or much past 30 miles for that matter) I've done a lot of reading and research. I've narrowed it down to a Seat Concepts seat. Seems to be the best bang for the buck. I'm about 290 at 6'0" My only question is to get the tall or standard height seat. Love my DRZsm! Had a BKing for a year and an R6 for 4 years before that. I'd like to be able to ride from Phoenix to Flagstaff and do some offroading up there, (I'm aware that jetting change will be necessary) but with the stock seat, that trip doesn't even seem fathomable.
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It´s a Yamaha WR, i don´t have so much more to say. -
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once modified for woods/ocala Fl. has been excellent...still going strong hundreds of hours... 2 pistons, 8 valves, have never touched bottom end. Has only broken once in woods and we used to ride 60 to 80 miles every saturday in bottomless sand pinned 4th gear. -
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So far so good. Checked/repacked/replaced all worn bearings, fluids, tires, clutch plates, brake pads, chain, sprockets, bars, grips and levers. Replaced all incorrect size/length bolds, nuts, screws. Removed a ton of red loctite. Usually at the expense of the threads and or bolt, nut and screw! BAD TOAD!!! I want to convert to electric start. The parts are out there. Let me know if you have done it or know someone who has. -
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MRD Racing Pipe, FCR Carb, Racing Cams, Seat Concepts Seat, MSR Shifter, Lemans Billet Alloy Mirrors, Hand Guards, Factory EFX Decals, Rear Cargo Rack, Lithium Iron Battery.....Fun bike. -
I see it posted time and time again to our discussion forums about how to make a bike fit both shorter and taller riders alike. So, I figured I'd see if I couldn't condense the discussion here. Areas to consider in no particular order: Seats The aftermarket offers complete seats that are both shorter (-1/2") and taller (3/4-1"+) than stock. Both are affordable and bolt in in minutes. Another route for shorter riders is to cut down your stock seat foam. Mark on the seat with a Sharpie pen the material you need to remove, make your cuts with an electric knife and ideally, fine tune the seating surface with an air grinder and medium grit sanding disc. But, don't cut too much off, otherwise you'll be sitting on the top of the bike's frame (not comfy). This is why complete, bolt on shorter seats are a better choice, as the density of the foam has been adjusted accordingly. Foot Pegs Some foot pegs incorporate mounting bracket collars that allow the peg to be mounted either up and forward or down and backwards. Most stock foot pegs leave a bit to be desired in my opinion, so not only can adjustable foot pegs better your riding position, most are substantially wider than stock, offering the rider added comfort and control. Suspension (shorter riders) There are a couple of options here. The first are lowering links. These aftermarket units replace some or your complete suspension linkage and can drop the rear of the bike as little as 3/4" to over 2". Most are bolt, so they are easily removed should you grow or sell the bike to a taller rider. You can also slide the fork legs up in the bike's triple clamps when adding a lowering link. How far? I'd recommend consulting with the lowering link manufacturer to see what is working best for their customers. You can also have your suspension professionally lowered. I've had this done to a bike in the past and it can be done without hurting suspension action. While the bike I had lowered spent most of its time off-road, I did play on the MX track and the bottoming resistance was excellent. I suppose it just depends upon the skills of the suspension tech you choose. I used John Curea of MX-Tech East Coast Suspension. Handlebars and Mounts Handlebars come in all sorts of bends. Bends refer to key measurements used for comparing the different handlebar choices. These measurements are width, height, rise, clamp area and and sweep: Generally speaking, taller riders will want bars with more height and less sweep (aka pullback) and short riders will want the opposite. The best way to select a new handlebar is to first record the key measurements of your existing handlebars to establish a baseline. Then, sit on your bike and pull your hands in the position that feels most comfortable to you, noting their position in relation to your existing handlebars. Selecting bars isn't an exact science, so don't worry if new handlebars feel a little strange at first. With a little seat time, you'll get used to them. If you're selecting handlebars to mount in your existing bar clamps, the key measurements of the handlebars is all you need to consider ergonomically. However, if for example, you're also changing the bar size from a stock 7/8" a 1 1/8" (aka fatbar), you'll also need to factor in any additional difference in height the new handlebar mounts may add. A popular choice are 7/8" to 1 1/8" bar mounts/adaptors/risers. Most are going to add an 3/4" in height, so you need to consider the additional height of both the new handlebars and mounts to arrive at the total new height. Also, some handlebar bar mounts/adaptors/risers are offset, meaning that the handlebar does not mount dead center in the mount. A typical offset is 5mm. And some of these bar mounts can be run in the forward position (+5) and lipped around towards the rider (-5). So this offset must be factor in with the sweep (pullback) of your new handlebars to arrive to the final sweep position. Lastly, there are also triple clamps (top clamps) that allow the bar mounts to be moved farther or close to the rider. Some use sets of holes (E.g KTM OEM) and others use v-shaped, horizontal channels allowing for even more fine tuning of the fore and aft position of the handlebars relative to the rider. Clutch and Brake Levers Short and tall riders may also have proportionately small and large hands. Usually a complain more from riders with small hands are clutch and brake levers where the throw is too long, making it difficult to easily use these critical controls. Some bikes come stock with levers that have adjustable through, but for those that don't, the aftermarket often has you covered. If not, forged (not cast) levers can be bent to suit the reach of the rider's hand easily enough. Shift Levers Tall rider + big feet = tough time shifting. Once again, the aftermarket has these riders covered with extended shift levers that allow the rider to get their boot under the lever. Some levers are similar the stock, but an inch longer. Others are a bit more sophisticated with replaceable shift lever heads in -10, 0 (stock), +10 and +15mm. View attachment: handlebarguide3.gif
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