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Found 181 results

  1. Bryan Bosch

    Honda CRF250X 2014

    3 reviews

    SPECIFICATIONS Year: 2014 Manufacturer: Honda Model: CRF250R Engine Type: Single-cylinder, four-stroke Engine Displacement: 249cc Bore & Stroke: 76.8 mm x 53.8 mm Compression Ratio: 13.5:1 Cooling: Liquid-Cooled Fuel System: Dual-Timing Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI), 46mm throttle body Ignition: Full transistor with electronic advance Starting System: Electronic Transmission: Close-ratio five-speed Final Drive: #520 Chain; 13T/49T Rake and Trail: 27° / 4.6 in. Wheel Base: 58.6 in. Seat Height: 37.4 in. Front Suspension: 48 mm inverted Showa cartridge fork with 16-position rebound, 16-position adjustability Rear Suspension: Pro-Link Showa single shock w/spring preload, 17-position rebound damping adj. Front Brake: Single 240 mm disc with twin-piston caliper Rear Brake: Single 240 mm disc Front Tire: Dunlop MX51FA 80/100-21 Rear Tire: Dunlop MX51 100/90-19 Fuel Capacity: 1.66 gal. Dry Weight: 231 lbs. (Wet)
  2. Which one would ya vote for? I'm a Honda guy but I'd vote for the Yamaha. I never see anybody having problems with there yzfs
  3. Hey, im 15, 6ft and 140lbs. I bought a Honda CRF230f as a first bike to get into riding but I've found that i've outgrown it decently fast. I would say i'm a moderate rider, all trails but would take the new bike on a track occasionally, and the 230s just not really doing it for me. I'd like to get into Hare scrambles and I'm paying for myself so costs affect me pretty well. So it comes down to 250 4T, 125 2T, or 250 2T. Any thoughts? I tagged the bikes i am mostly looking at but open to anything. Thanks
  4. adamaveal

    2015 CRF250X First Ride

    Hi Folks, I just wanted to report that a 200 lbs., experienced rider, will love the CRF250X. I have owned all versions of carbureted YZ250F's. I am 44, and have been riding since the third grade. I moto occasionally, top ten, but mostly trail ride. YZ250F's can not be faulted. I bought a new CRF yesterday and love it. It is surprisingly fast, predictable, and well built. I have no plans to modify the bike, it runs great. Like most riders, buying a new bike is a gamble. I was worried that I would be disappointed and regret my purchase. Nope. I ride Pacific Northwest trails as fast as I could go on my YZ-F, third gear, sometimes fourth, and do not get beat up. Yeah Honda. I hope this helps people who were on the fence.
  5. MNThumper250

    2006 Honda 250X Jetting Issues

    Here is the history of my bike: I have a 2006 Honda CRF250X (non-Cali bike) that I bought slightly used with low miles, about 6 months ago. I noticed that after I bought the bike and took a closer look, I could tell that the carb had been tampered with previously. So, I went through the carb and replaced with new gaskets, O-rings, and jets (bought a carb rebuild kit). I also did all the maintenance (spark plug, fluids, etc). So, I got the bike to run fine. The plug looked good, it ran good, and I was happy. Note: I also did the Accelerator Pump mod: http://crfsonly.com/howto/keihin-fcr-carb/honda-crf-fcr-carb-update-how-to-install/how-to-install-honda-accelerator-pump-update-crf450r.php Although, the only issue I had was with the choke. Even before I went through the carb I was having this issue: when the bike was cold, I would pull the choke, but instead of the bike idling like it was supposed to, it would start and idle for like 2 seconds and then die. I ended up trying to start the bike without the choke and it started up just fine and idled. I thought this was weird, but the bike would just not run with the choke, so I left it alone. I thought the jetting might be too rich in the first place, that's why the bike would die when the choke was pulled. After riding the bike like this for a while, I checked the plug again, and it didn't look too rich or lean, so I didn't bother trying to get the choke to work properly, since it would start fine without it. I looked on many forums, but I couldn't seem to find anyone with the same issue as me. Been starting the bike without the choke with no issues ever since. Anyways, that's not my main issue at the moment. I recently installed the JD Jet Kit on my bike. I was previously experiencing a little bit of bog when I cracked the throttle really fast, and I had heard the the kit could, for the most part, cure this issue. I had also heard some other good things about the kit. My bike was completely stock, accept for that AP mod. I cut a 4x4 hole in my airbox and installed the #42 pilot, #158 main, and the red needle with 5th clip position. When I got everything back together, it was a little harder than usual to get the bike started. After it was running, I tried to adjust the pilot screw to get it to idle as best as I could (after warming it up for 10 mins). I also noticed that when I would twist the throttle (between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle) and hold it steady, I would get a weird "fluttering" or "bubbling" type sound, like the bike was running with the choke on (rich). This is my main issue. I rode the bike like this and the issue still persisted. The bike had plenty of power, and didn't seem like it was bogging. I checked the plug and it looked a little rich. Afterwards, I tried starting the bike again with the choke on (later when it was cold), and the choke actually works now, which is strange. I tore the carb apart again, thinking the jetting was too rich, and put the needle clip in the more lean positions (tried 4th, and 2nd positions) with no success. Still had the "flutter" at steady throttle. The leanest I tried was a #155 main, with red needle in 1st position. The flutter seemed to subside a little, but it was still there. I also tried the #40 pilot again, and it seemed to start better with the smaller pilot. I realize that I could try a smaller main with different combinations of needle and needle clip positions, but before I do, I was hoping to get some advice from the community on what to do or potential problems. I messaged James Dean himself and he said it could be the float level or something is blocked which could be causing that "flutter", but I checked the float level (which was in spec) and cleaned the carb, hoses, and blew out all the openings and jets and tired again, but again with the same problem. crfsonly said that I should consider replacing the floating valve seal or checking the operation of my hot start. The seal could be damaged, but not likely. I still have to check it out. The hot start works fine. What I was planning on doing next would be checking that floating valve seal, then possibly changing to stock needle, and if that doesn't work I would go to smaller main jets. I don't want to change to leaner jets, because shouldn't the JD kit work with the recommended jets? I installed everything according to instruction and my riding conditions. It should work. Elevation: ~1,250 Temps: 50's - 90's Non-California bike Stock 2006 Honda CRF250X I know this is a shit load of info, but if anyone could give me some suggestions or solutions, it would be much appreciated. If you need to know anything else, please post a question. I can also post a vid of what my bike sounds like. Thank you!
  6. im stuck between buying the 230f or the 250x. i am an experienced rider, but have never ridden anything bigger than a 175 and at the moment i dont do any legitimate racing (so idk what that means). i ride almost 30kms every day of hard riding, mostly really intense trail riding, at the pits, and a lot of mudding and racing a bit with my freinds. im selling my current 2013 150f and im looking for something thats still fairly reliable and will still put up with my crap, but performs a LOT better (that bike sucked ). i think that im ready for a lot bigger bike but i guess w'ell find out lol. i'm 15, 140lbs, and 5'8" so i just want an average joes opinion on which one i should buy?
  7. I have an old ktm 300 exc for Enduro and a Sherco trials bike. I find myself looking at crf230f's and Yamaha TTR 230's after riding my cousins a little. They are slow, and cheap suspension, but on my cousins stock crf230f I just kept smiling riding it. I think what I like is the mellow power and low seat height / small frame... I feel more comfy even tho I'm 5-10". Riding my KTM is an event... Riding the CRF is just fun So looking local, a 230 Anything is 2k no matter how old. I see CRF 250xs for 3k . To me the 250x is a better value, and I can probably lower it cheaper than I can upgrade a 230.... I need some help deciding what to do....if anything
  8. Hello all! I'm new here to the forum! So I got a 01 KDX 200 this summer as my first bike. I'm homeschooled so I have wayy too much time to ride . The KDX Doesn't seem to have much power anymore . How does the power of a newer/ish (04-06) CRF 250x compare? Also, everyone I talk to says a 450 would ride me instead of vice versa but doesn't it just depend on the angle of my right hand? To me it seems like I may aswell get a 450r because they wear less? So I guess basically what I'm asking is, does most everything have more power then the KDX? Then I'll have to decide witch one to get lol. Thanks a bunch! Nolie
  9. ThumperTalk

    Honda CRF250X 2006

    34 reviews

    IDENTIFICATION Type: Off-Road Warranty (Months): 0 Revision Status: Upgraded ENGINE Displacement (cc): 249 Engine Type: Single-Cylinder Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: OHV Carburetion Type: Carburetor TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Manual Number of Speeds: 5 Primary Drive System: Chain BRAKES Front Brakes: Disc Rear Brakes: Disc TIRES Front Tire(s): Dunlop 80/100 R21 Rear Tire(s): Dunlop 100/100 R18 SPECIFICATIONS Wheelbase (in / mm): 58.3 / 1480.8 Dry Weight (lbs / kg): 225 / 102.1 Fuel Capacity (gal / L): 2.2 / 8.3 Seat Height (in / mm): 37.7 / 957.6 Number of Seats: 1 FEATURES Tachometer: Not Available Digital Instrumentation: Not Available Windshield: Not Available
  10. Carman

    How to improve cold starting

    I check and adjust the valves regularly and run 91 gas but it doesn't start very well when cold. It's not the valves as it starts fine in the morning if it's above 15c but below that it's lots of throttle snaps and it kicking the starter out of gear before it will barely stay running at idle. It's gets down to -10 here in winter but I try to ride year round. Once it's warmed up it starts quicker than you can take you finger off the button but cold it doesn't want too. I find the easiest way to get it going is slowly crank it over with the kick start a few times with the choke on and then give it a couple shots of gas then slowly kick it over one more and then a good strong kick and it will usually start. Sometimes I've spent 1/2 hour cranking and kicking it and finally resort to jumping it but the valves are in spec and it will start well for the rest of the day. It is a 2006 and has a hot cam (stage 1) and air box cut. Rejected with a 165 main and a 42 pilot. JD red neadle but not sure which clip and I have the rest of the kit too. Also a dr. D race exhaust and soon to be a new top end with kibble white valves and springs. Any help on how to make it cold start better would be greatly appreciated. I'm pretty sure it's something to do with jetting. Also I'm with in 300ft of sea level
  11. Hey I'm looking for a new dirt bike and needing some help deciding on what the best choice would be for me. First of all and most importantly, I'm a grand total of 5 foot 2 inches with a 28 inseam and only weigh 105lbs which limits my choices quite a bit. I've been riding for about 5 years on a TT-R 125L and been on some difficult stuff so I don't consider myself a beginner and don't want another beginner bike. I only trail ride and wouldn't be on a track but need something the will get me through the rough stuff. I don't need the top-end power of a 2-stoke and would like to stick with a 4-stroke but with more power than the 125. At first I was looking at 250s but their seat height is way too big for me and I don't love the idea of lowering a bike and ruining the stock setup and geometry. Then I started looking at the TT-R 230 and found that I fit well on it but from what I've read its pretty gutless and disappointing for experienced riders. I've read that you can modify the 230 to work better but can be expensive and only does so much for the power and torque. I have mechanical experience and love tinkering with bikes so I would definitely modify whatever I get. So my question is, should I get a 250 (or bigger) four stroke (and what make/model) and lower it or go with the familiar TTR and try to modify it and get more power/torque? And, if I do lower a bigger bike what else can you change to fix the problems caused by lowering it? Im grateful for any help or feedback, thank you!
  12. Wondering how pronounced the differences will be between the four stroke Honda and the two-stroke Yamaha. I can get either one for pretty much the same price. All I'm going to do with it is set up some jumps and boot around the yard, maybe some light trail stuff.
  13. Hi I am 15 and thinking of buying a dirt bike soon. I have found that I want either the CRF250X or the WR250F but im not sure which one. I have read that the hondas have a lot of valve problems and the WR engine will last longer. I also read that the WR is a little heavier. Is there anything else you guys can think of about each bike that would be better for someone 5 foot 9, 135 lbs. In your guys opinion which is better and why. Thanks.
  14. twigster

    race prepping a crf 250x 04

    hi all ,after doing all the c.c.c mods apart from the header pipe and tail pipe , not really had much time or a place to ride the bike ..Recently found an enduro track so with the weather being cold i ventured out and i love this bike no issues what so ever just a great little bike ! I am at the moment trying to figure out what i would need to do to my crf in order to make it competative in say the red bull romaniacs 5 day enduro ,never done anything like it befor and i am trying to figure out what i should do to the bike in order to make the finish ? have also changed the bushes and fluids in the forks ,wheel bearings ,tyres brakes etc blah,blah ..I wanted to know if any one has tried trials tyres on their crf's i heard they give better grip ? !!Also lightening the bike i.e battery some carbon fibre bits (bash plate) i would also like to try those radiator guards too and a shark fin for the rear brake ..brake snake etc any thing you all can advise me on would help i am considerring eventually to go up to a 280 ish cc big bore to help but the jury is still out on that ,also i have to keep the price down and not let it all get out of hand oh yes rekluse clutch good /bad for enduro cheers guys it took a while but i have finally got my crf out and i am loving it .....
  15. Enduro28

    Honda CRF250X (2009)


  16. HondaCRFguy

    Honda CRF250X (2006)


    i will never sell my honda
  17. secbiker

    Honda CRF250X (2004)


    Love this bike, easy and powerfull.
  18. texxter

    Honda CRF250X (2008)


    Love this bike! Light, competent, tough!
  19. Spit51

    Honda CRF250X (2005)


    Good Bike. Valves suck, but no complaints about the rest. I use mine in tight South Jersey woods. Had it since new. Guts racing seat. Devol Radiator guards, Factory Connection Suspension. NJ Titled
  20. RevItToDeath

    Honda CRF250X (2009)


    2010 Honda CRF250X HRC edition Love of my life, and first real bike I've had. Rode years ago on an XR200R when I was 15 or so. 5 years later I got this and the improvment over the XR is phenomenal. Handles great, really tight! power isn't all that but for a 250 it's not bad. But still seems to be XR tough! The white photo is when I first got it, in it's HRC edition plastics. Since I've swapped all the plastics for Acerbis ones, put on a FX Evo 11 Sticker kit, FX all-grip seat cover, Trailtech Voyager system (total crap IMO), Trailtech high power stator & flywheel, Pro-taper pillow top grips and a Baja designs Squadron 40W LED lighting system (worth every penny) Now getting out and thrashing it :D
  21. gitrdone123

    Honda CRF250X (2007)


    Fantastic Bike
  22. MotoFly1675

    Honda CRF250X (2005)


    Perfect bike for deep woods trail riding. Added front light helps with riding at dusk, easy to convert to street and get plated if you wish to blast down some public dirt roads.
  23. El Toro

    Honda CRF250X (2012)


    Latest addition to CRF family.
  24. Oxinbox21

    Honda CRF250X (2006)


    Great fun bike!
  25. FasterThanMost

    Headlight or Number Plate Simple Solution

    I found a very simple way to change your X model CRF from headlight to number plate for those who want to zip it around the track. Once the plate is made it takes about 3 minutes to switch one for the other. It is very simple all you need are 2 1 inch L brackets 2 small carriage bolts 2 washers existing hardware for headlight mount simply bolt the L brackets on to the stock triple clamp with your existing mounting hardware Hold new #plate in position desired ( I found a WR426 works perfect) and mark dots on plate through the holes in the L bracket with sharpie or marker.. drill small holes in plate where you marked them for drilling remove mounting hardware and L brackets from clamp insert threaded end of carriage bolts through the front of the plate attach L brackets with washer and nuts and tighten just snug hold plate in position line up L brackets with triple clamp mount and bolt onto bike tighten carriage bolts from front of plate with screwdriver now all you have to switch anytime you want is remove and install to mounting bolts from your top clamp takes about 15 minutes to make plate and about 3 to switch back and forth to ride your chosen condition of track or trail. below is a picture of the finished product. Looks nice I think.