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Found 181 results

  1. gitrdone123

    Honda CRF250X (2007)

    0 comments

    Fantastic Bike
  2. wrestlerdude15

    Honda CRF250X (2004)

    0 comments

    I absolutely love this bike. I use it primarily for trail riding but its equally at home on the track as it is in the woods. I love the electric start and the power band is awesome. Suspension was great out of the box. One of my favorite bikes I've ever owned.
  3. Spit51

    Honda CRF250X (2005)

    0 comments

    Good Bike. Valves suck, but no complaints about the rest. I use mine in tight South Jersey woods. Had it since new. Guts racing seat. Devol Radiator guards, Factory Connection Suspension. NJ Titled
  4. 2x1wheeler

    Honda CRF250X (2006)

    0 comments

    This bike suits my riding perfectly. With a tooth down on the front sprocket, this bike loves super tight single track, more technical the better. After playing with the stock suspension adjustments it tracks great even on the rockiest, wet rooted trails. Can't say enough good things about this bike. With typical maintenance and stainless steel intake valves swap, the bike has a long life ahead of it on the PA mountains.
  5. MurrietaRob

    Honda CRF250X (2016)

    0 comments

    2016 Honda CRF 250X VIN: JH2ME1116GK900133 condition: excellent engine displacement (CC): 250 fuel: gas odometer: 230 paint color: red title status: clean transmission: manual Very low hours/miles. Includes Vapor onboard computer, rpm, temp, hours, odo, etc. (replaced OEM odometer), acerbis hand protectors, aluminum engine and skid plates. Carb rejetted with JD jetting kit and airbox has been opened - much cooler than stock setup. Green Sticker valid until into 2019
  6. FasterThanMost

    Headlight or Number Plate Simple Solution

    I found a very simple way to change your X model CRF from headlight to number plate for those who want to zip it around the track. Once the plate is made it takes about 3 minutes to switch one for the other. It is very simple all you need are 2 1 inch L brackets 2 small carriage bolts 2 washers existing hardware for headlight mount simply bolt the L brackets on to the stock triple clamp with your existing mounting hardware Hold new #plate in position desired ( I found a WR426 works perfect) and mark dots on plate through the holes in the L bracket with sharpie or marker.. drill small holes in plate where you marked them for drilling remove mounting hardware and L brackets from clamp insert threaded end of carriage bolts through the front of the plate attach L brackets with washer and nuts and tighten just snug hold plate in position line up L brackets with triple clamp mount and bolt onto bike tighten carriage bolts from front of plate with screwdriver now all you have to switch anytime you want is remove and install to mounting bolts from your top clamp takes about 15 minutes to make plate and about 3 to switch back and forth to ride your chosen condition of track or trail. below is a picture of the finished product. Looks nice I think.
  7. wwindbreaker

    Honda CRF250X (2006)

    0 comments

    Good bike. I bought this bike in 2012 not know the hours on the motor. I put another 75 hours before doing a new top end with Kibble White Valves. Owned CRF230F... under powered, Owned CRF450X... heavy. This CRF250X is just right for me.
  8. Son_of_harry14

    Honda Crf250x mods

    Hi Im thinking about getting a Honda crf250x and my friends think some mods would be beneficial. would a crf250r dual exhaust help? What are the pros and cons of dual exhaust. Maybe a single crf250R can would be better or is it easier to just leave as stock. Other thing was re jetting the carburettor for more power, Would this help? If so what size would work or more power, or a website that explains this. Is there a specific kit that would make this easier? Thanks
  9. jinandrew

    Honda CRF250X (2006)

    0 comments

    Great bike, easy to throw around and plenty of fun.....
  10. Chris.GVS

    Honda CRF250X 2015

    2 reviews

    SPECIFICATIONS Year: 2015 Manufacturer: Honda Model: CRF250R Engine Type: Single-cylinder, four-stroke Engine Displacement: 249cc Bore & Stroke: 76.8 mm x 53.8 mm Compression Ratio: 13.5:1 Cooling: Liquid-Cooled Fuel System: Dual-Timing Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI), 46mm throttle body Ignition: Full transistor with electronic advance Starting System: Electronic Transmission: Close-ratio five-speed Final Drive: #520 Chain; 13T/49T Rake and Trail: 27° / 4.6 in. Wheel Base: 58.6 in. Seat Height: 37.4 in. Front Suspension: 48 mm inverted Showa cartridge fork with 16-position rebound, 16-position adjustability Rear Suspension: Pro-Link Showa single shock w/spring preload, 17-position rebound damping adj. Front Brake: Single 240 mm disc with twin-piston caliper Rear Brake: Single 240 mm disc Front Tire: Dunlop MX51FA 80/100-21 Rear Tire: Dunlop MX51 100/90-19 Fuel Capacity: 1.66 gal. Dry Weight: 231 lbs. (Wet)
  11. Hi Im a 14 year old and have been wanting a new bike for the last year, I currently have a CRF150f and want more power. I have ridden my friends crf230f and liked the power difference between a 150. His dad said I should skip the 230 stage an go for a 250. I have looked at all the different types and only really want a yamaha or a Honda. Preferably I would go for a Honda. I don't want a race bike, but want something nearly as fast to compete with friends. I don't necessarily want a road legal bike but would probably be helpful in future. What would be the best option between these bikes: Crf250x, Crf230f,Wr250f. The next thing is price, and as Im 14, I don't pay for myself but I do make money through music and will end up paying half. I have heard that the wr250f is great but it costs nearly $3000 dollars more than my first choice the Honda Crf250x. Just want peoples opinions, Thanks alot! http://powersports.honda.com/Model/trail/2017/crf250x.aspx There is also the 2 stroke yz250x but im pretty sure I want a 4 stroke. Not doing any real racing just with friends and on the farm, so may travel slowly for some time, would this be a problem? Thanks This post has been promoted to a wiki
  12. FInnStev

    New 2007 Crf 250x, need advice!

    Hello all. I recently bought a 2007 crf 250x. The bike needs some attention, but i think in the end will turn out to be a great buy. The plastics are a little washed out, and the frame needs polishing. The bike starts, and idles fine with the choke on, it does not idle too well without the choke. I think the bike is much to lean and i am rejetting it tomorrow. 1. The exhaust's baffle has been removed and it is very loud. This is not too much of a concern as i live in South Africa and the police aren't to strict about that. I have found a Big Gun slip-on for sale, but i am not sure whether it would fit the bike. Do any of you know if this would fit a 2007 crf 250x? The advert says the slip on fits a yz 250f or wr. I may be being silly, but it is the best deal i could find so is worth a try. Alternative to that i have found a 2005 crf 450r exhaust in good condition for sale for slightly more than the one above. Would that fit the bike and how would it compare to stock and aftermarket exhausts? I don't have much money to spend, this is the reason why i am not looking at the FMFs and the Yoshi pipes. Thanks for the help to come. I will probably be posting shortly on my jetting and CCC modifications progress.
  13. jpbussen

    How To: Fix CRF 450X / 250X Tail Light

    For Many of the CRF electric owners or anyone who has used the X model taillight, it has probably gone out on you. Well I have an easy fix to save the cost of a new one just by replacing the resistor's in the lights. By my judgement, Honda used two 100 ohm resistors to create the necessary resistance which is about 20 ohms too little by calculations. They would burn out and make the light useless. I have an easy, inexpensive fix for about 5 dollars, and if your LED's are still good it's only about 1 dollar. There are two ways to do this, one is two go with the stock system with 2 100ohm resistors, or you can just use 1 220ohm resistor. If you do the stock system you will need four 100 ohm 1/8 watt resistors. If you do the other choice you need two 220 ohm resistors. What You Will Need: All of these parts you can get at RadioShack which is the only place I know of to get stuff like this 1) 4 White LED's 3.3V 25mA (If LED's still work you won't need them 2) Option A) 4 100ohm 1/8watt resistors Option 2 220ohm 1/4watt resistors 3)Utility Knife 4)Soldering Iron 5)Rosin Core Solder 6)Philips Screw Driver 1) Here are the resistors and LED's you can buy from radioshack. Choose which way you want to go with on the resistor's and you'll buy just those. Each pack of resistor's is only 99 cents and the LED's are 2 dollars for a pack of 2. 2) Set your Light out on your work area. You will want to remove the terminals from the clip and slide the protective tubing down or completely off of the wires. Take a utility knife and not going anymore than about 1/8" down seperate the black pastic from the clear red lens. It's not going to pop off just by cutting it because there is a lip that goes into the housing. 3) Hopefully you can do this step without breaking the plastic. I had no problems and hopefully you won't either. Take a couple pair of pliers (preferably crescent wrenches) and position them about how I have them. Pry one pair of pliers in a scissors action and hopefully you can separate the two pieces. 4) Now the pieces are separated. You can see the lip I was talking about. Hopefully you were able to make it to this step with no breaking. 5) Now remove the two screws that hold the board onto the housing. 6) As You can see the two resistor's are burnt to a crisp. There's also melted plastic pegs that they use to help hold the board down even more. You will need to break the board away from the housing. 7) Take a screwdriver and pry the board up to break the board away from the housing but don't break anything. Using your soldering iron to melt the plastic and then pry it off might be a safer way. 8) Now pull the board away and pull the wires thru the grommet to get yourself some more room to work with. 9) Here's the back of the board. If you look closely you can see how the routing goes. It uses two series, using two LED's in a series. The positive volts goes in thru the diode (the black device in the very middle of the board) thru one LED to the next LED than thru the resistor's and to the ground. If anyone wants a good drawing of the routing just ask and I'll get one. 10) Now take your soldering iron and start removing the resistor's. Heat up the solder on one side and use needle nose pliers to work it free. 11) Make sure you pay attention to how the LED's are sitting in the board. You want to install the new one's in the same direction. 12) Here's everything out on one side. I recommend doing one side so you don't mess up how the LED's are sitting in the board. 13) I'm using the single 220 ohm resistor so my replacement will be different. If you do the double 100 ohm resistor's just install them just how they were originally 14) Get the solder hot enough and mess with a bit to get the holes to open back up. This will be much easier than trying to heat up the solder and push the resistor and LED through while keeping the solder warm. 15) Here's the one new LED and the 220ohm resistor installed. Since I'm using the larger resistor you will need to leave enough wire so you can twist it enough to be just as wide as the board. If it sticks out further than the board then it will hit the lens when you reassemble it. 16) Here's two new LED's Installed on one side and the resistor. 17) I hooked up the wire's to a power source and TADA!!!! It has lights!!! 18) Finish up the other side and now you should have all four lights working 19) Pull the wire's back through the grommet and screw the board back into the housing. You can try to melt the plastic pins back to the board if possible but probably not necessary. If you did a nice clean job it should look just like it's factory. 20) Like I said make sure if the resistor isn't wider than the board so it will clear the lens. 21) Super glue the lens back on. The lens has a slight curve to it so it has only one way to go back on so it's hard to get it back together wrong. Use rubber bands to hold it together or some sort of clamps that won't break it. Once your done it should look good as new.
  14. Chris.GVS

    Honda CRF250X 2017

    1 review

    SPECIFICATIONS ENGINE Engine Type: 249cc liquid-cooled single-cylinder four-stroke Bore And Stroke: 78mm x 52.2mm Ignition: Keihin® 37mm flat-slide carburetor with Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Ignition: CD with electronic advance and lighting coil Compression Ratio: 12.9:1 Valve Train: Unicam®, four-valve; 31mm intake valve, 26mm exhaust valve Starting: Electric and Kick DRIVE TRAIN Transmission: Wide-ratio five-speed Final Drive: #520 T-ring-sealed chain; 14T/53T CHASSIS / SUSPENSION / BRAKES Front Suspension: 47mm inverted Showa® cartridge fork with 16-position rebound- and 16-position compression-damping adjustability; 12.4-inches travel Rear Suspension: Pro-Link® Showa® single shock with spring-preload, 17-position rebound-damping adjustability, and compression damping adjustment separated into low-speed (13 positions) and high-speed (3.5 turns); 12.4 inches travel Front Brake: Single 240mm disc with twin-piston caliper Rear Brake: Single 240mm disc Front Tire: 80/100-21 Rear Tire: 100/100-18 DIMENSIONS Rake: 27.54° (Caster Angle) Trail: 118mm (4.7 inches) Wheelbase: 58.3 inches Seat Height: 37.7 inches Curb Weight: 254 pounds (includes all standard equipment, required fluids and a full tank of fuel-ready to ride) Fuel Capacity: 1.9 gallons Ground Clearance: 13.6 inches OTHER Model Id: CRF250X Emissions: Meets current California Air Resource Board (CARB) and EPA off-road emissions standards. Available Colors: Red
  15. How to: CRF250R front number plate on your 250X This is a UFO brand front number plate. I’m guessing that this plate is a little different than the other plates out there. The 1st step that I took is to cut off the large center tab. I used my dremel drill and took my time to make sure the finished product looked nice. Here are my pictures 2nd step that I took was to apply heavy duty Velcro to the sides of the new number plate. The 3rd step was to drill holes in to the two tabs on the top of the number plate I used a 1/8” drill bit and made the hole oblong. The 4th step was I took my light hook up and wrapped it up with plumbers tape to protect it and then used duct tape to secure it, and I placed heavy duty Velcro on the sides of the lower triple clamp. The 5th step was to place the number plate on the bike. Make sure you fish the long tab on the top under the break line 1st. Then place it on the Velcro. Next I attached the top holes that I made in the number plate to the holes for the bolts for the head light number plate with zip ties. Don’t tighten them up at this point just get them started. Next step I slowly started tightening the zip ties from one side to the other. Take is slow and step back from time to time to make sure the plate is level and square. Then after you’ve got it tight cut off the tails. Then she’s done.
  16. jms130

    Honda CRF250X (2008)

    0 comments

    Lowered 1.5" and sprung for my weight. Flatlands radiator guards, Hammerhead Case Saver, Trail Tech stator, JD jetting, Twin Air filter, Trail Tech Striker, Trail Tech radiator fan, Cyclops H6 LED bulb, headlight on/off/high/low switch. Recently added a Flatlands skid plate and Cycra Ultra Probend handguards.
  17. I'm still unsure of what kind of bike to buy. I'm 23 and 5'7 roughly 180lbs . This will be my first bike. I'll mostly be doing trails but I want a bike that I will not out grow soon. I'd like to have it for a few years. Knowing how I am once I get started I'm sure I'm going to want to do some smaller jumps (nothing crazy) and enduro like stuff. That being said I was looking at a brand new ttr 230. Is that still a decent bike for what Im looking for? I read online people where saying this bike is slow but no idea what there concept of slow is. Hopefully someone can help me. Thank you
  18. Hi, I have a 2005 CRF 250X and the bike was working really good until it don't idle without the choke on. I removed the carburator and I cleaned it, I checked and fixed the valves (now in spec) and the bike is still doing the same. After I inspected the ignition alignment I found that the ignition is not aligned as I show in the following pictures. This is the picture of the right side as you can see the aligment is correct. On the left side, you can note the mark is NOT between the flywheel marks. This picture shows that the marks on the flywheel is off from the mark of the side cover. After searching online I did find a picture of the flywheel but it looks like it has a guide to hold in place. So my question is if I remove the flywheel, can I realign the flywheel to the correct mark or how can I fix this problem. Thanks in advance.
  19. hey guys, new to the forum and was looking for a bit of advice on which bike would suit me the best. I have been really keen on getting a crf250r, yz250f, kx250f ect or even a wr250f or crf250x although these two bikes can get fairly pricey also after riding my mates yz125 i am considering a 2t 125 for me it felt like plenty of power but during the time we were riding (2 days) it broke down 3 times ranging from a simple spark plug to the engine blowing up so im still leaning more towards getting a 4t 250. I am also thinking that, although It will be a massive jump from a little 100 to a 250, It will last me for ages and I probably wont have to upgrade to a bigger bike, whereas if I were to buy a 1252t I might get sick of it breaking down so much that I will probably end up going to a 250 4t. I will be riding the bike mainly on the farm and planning on taking it to local tracks on weekends. I was just wondering what year specific bikes undertook major changes to performance, handling etc. and also the advantages and disadvantages of each bike, i currently own an absolutely bulletproof xr100r but i have well and truely grown out of it being a 15yo 5'9-11 teenager any advice/info would be much appreciated Cheers Matt
  20. Lets just see some of your guys trail bikes.
  21. Mikey560

    crf250x has no spark!

    I was driving the bike for 15min or so and all of the sudden the bike stalled. I tried starting it again with no luck. I took the spark plug out to see if there is spark so i ground the spark plug to the frame and there is no spark. I even put a new spark plug in the bike and still nothing. Any ideas what i should check??
  22. 1gr8bldr

    Similar to the 230

    What other bikes are similar to the 230? I bought a 250x thinking it was similar and better in the stock form. What other bike resembles the 230 that I may be interested in. I can liquidate the 250x while it is in ultra great shape and buy another bike. Several things that are not the same. The height is much higher. My 250x has a 38 1/2 inch seat height. If you were to stop along side of me to talk, I have to shift my rear of the side to be able to get a foot down. I will never like this, regardless of the type of riding. Bruce thinks that 1 or possible 1.5 is the max for lowering and retaining a good suspension. 1.5 is almost enough, but would like more. I am thinking that rather than start a long expensive upgrade that I should sell the bike and buy one that fits me and meets my needs as is. I checked into the KTM freeride. I like what I see but do not want a 2 stroke because I really like engine braking for downhill. I want a luger, a bike that will hardly stall, even while idling in gear. This sounds like a Rekluse need, but I want the bike in gear, as a brake, when I pick it up on the side of a hill. I release the "brake" when I pull in the clutch once it has been pointed back down, ready to jump on and ride it out. I do not need speed like a "Honda R". My riding mostly consist of riding trails and logging roads to and from any obstacles we can find. Rocks, hills, creeks, etc. Similar to a hair scramble with the difference being that the trail is not worn down to dirt, but often 2 inches of dead leaves on top that makes smooth power much better than raw power. Often, we are just exploring the woods, looking for a place to laugh at the one who does not make it through.
  23. davidhashy

    CRF250X Valve Problems

    I went for a ride one day and my bike was hard to start, but it did. I went home and tried to start it again and it wouldn't at all! I was told it was my valves. So I check it and none of them were in spec. No problem change the shim size. But one of intake valves was .000. What does that mean? Do to buy this http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/2006-honda-CRF250X--kibblewhite-stainless-steel-intake-valve-kit?mmy_source=pdp . I just ordered a new R cam and a JD jet kit. Im so confused.
  24. Hey, im 15, 6ft and 140lbs. I bought a Honda CRF230f as a first bike to get into riding but I've found that i've outgrown it decently fast. I would say i'm a moderate rider, all trails but would take the new bike on a track occasionally, and the 230s just not really doing it for me. I'd like to get into Hare scrambles and I'm paying for myself so costs affect me pretty well. So it comes down to 250 4T, 125 2T, or 250 2T. Any thoughts? I tagged the bikes i am mostly looking at but open to anything. Thanks
  25. jasongind

    Honda CRF250X (2007)

    0 comments

    Reklus EXP, JD Jet kit, 14/47 gearing, Cyrca hand guards, Baja stator upgrade and light kit, Street Legal
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