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Found 62 results

  1. Time Left: 15 days and 11 minutes

    • FOR SALE
    • Used - Good

    Suzuki DRZ 400. This is a desert oriented DRZ and has been well maintained by a passionate owner. Some people call this the DRZ 400 K or "kicker" model because it is kick start only to save weight. The K model is the most "serious" version of the DRZ. It came from the factory with pumper carb, hot cams, light flywheel, no battery, no lights, and with adjustable rebound and compression front and rear. I have beefed things up a bit for long distance desert riding with long range tank, suspension, jetting, exhaust, handlebars, guards, pegs, GPS computer, and street legal light/horn kit. It has clean AZ title and current registration but is located in southern California (Oceanside). I trust this machine to take me deep into the desert and would love to keep it forever. I'm in no rush to sell. I really want it to go to a loving home and a rider who will appreciate it. Selling because I want garage space for my next project.


    Oceanside, California - US

  2. I was wondering if my drz400sm can be fully switch with a kickstart and would she start without a batterie, need a lighter bike:)😆 thankss!
  3. Hey Guys! So I've recently purchased an 08 Drz400SM with 25000kms, knowing that it was having some problems running but thought i would give it a go to see if I could fix it. The bike was sitting for two years because it was starting to blow white smoke a lil bit and he didn't care to fix it.. I used to ride with him when I had my gsxr and knew the bike ran well. Anyways.. I've replaced all fluids, air filter, spark plug, cleaned carb, and its still smoking rather heavy.. it's got all the power in the world, and may just be the most fun I've had on a bike but it's a little unsettling when you know you are burning oil.. I've attached a photo of the spark plug I replaced tonight. What are the most common issues for burning oil the Z sees? Head Gasket, Valves + Seals, Piston Rings? Also in need of a owners manual for the girl..
  4. I dropped my 2019 DRZ-400S and the Crankcase is leaking, it was punctured by the shifter and oil leaked all out. Do I need to get a whole new crankcase or can I just JB Weld it and refill with oil and ride home? I had to leave the moto far from my home and either need to fix it asap with jbweld/oil or tow it home and order parts... which would cost me too much Please help me asap, this is my daily commuter and its costing me a fortune to rideshare back and forth to work. Always lurked around this Awesome forum but Joined today for my question. thank you guys in advance!!
  5. Hello fellow riders, I recently re-jetted my carb ('01 DRZ400S) and I noticed a long rubber hose running parallel to my rear shock and down low towards the ground. This was not a hose I disconnected from the carb and I am not sure where or what it is supposed to connect to. Is it possible that this was a vent tube for the stock metal gas tank? I bought the bike with an IMS 4.0 gallon tank. Thank you for the help, Mescalito.
  6. Hello all, I’m needing to pull my gas tank off of my 01 Suzuki DRZ400S to run a new switch relay to a set of LED lights. I am wondering if the gas tank will drip fuel every where if my carb/petcock does not have a fuel SHUTOFF setting? The petcock has the run, secondary and prime positions. I am also wondering if there is any reason why I wouldn’t or shouldn’t tie my new auxiliary lights directly to my headlight switch? The LED pods draw very low amperage. If this can be done, then there is no reason for me to pull the tank. Thanks for the advice, Mescalito
  7. Hey guys! I am currently looking to buy my first DRZ400s. Been wanting a motorbike for a long time and finally saved up enough money and of an age where my insurance isn’t crazy high here in Ontario. I recently came across a decent deal for how crazy the resale market is, however the Motobike does have some concerning issues. The DRZ is a 2017 with just over 3000 KM. The owner is looking for $5200 CAD. Firstly, the owner says he has started it every few weeks but the last time he tried a week ago, it appears that the battery has died. He said he will try to boost it and update me in a few days. I am sort of concerned about this as I am unable to find info on how to distinguish between a battery issue or a motorbike issue. I don’t mind buying a new battery, but if it’s a bike issue I end up have a battery I have no use for. Do you have any advice for this issue. I have posted a pic of the motorbike. Otherwise the owner says it has no issues aside from the battery and missing mirror. Thank you in advance!!
  8. I have a 2000 drz400s that i just put a 440 kit in with stage 2 hotcams, it has an open air box and a pro circuit exhaust. what size jets should i put in it since i just put the cams and big bore in it?
  9. Alrighty so I had made a post on early December about getting my new 2019 Suzuki DRZ400SM and wondering a list of the necessity mods to go with the full Yosho RS2 system I had got. So now I’m ready to do the 3x3 and JD kit, I think someone had also mentioned the 2019s come with a pair valve that’s better taken off? So if someone could make a simple little list and links to all the parts I need now? I know the JD kit but I’m seeing also something about air/fuel screw adjuster separate as well? What air filter would you recommend as well? Thanks in advance!
  10. My question is i want to do a big bore with the stroker crank. I was always planning on doing the 435 athena kit with the +4 stroker. But i recently came across the 453 big bore sleeve by la sleeve. Does anybody have this kit mixed with the stroker crank if so hows the reliability, any input would be great!
  11. Hello Riders, I’ve a 2006 DRZ 400s, recently got a new top end, carb done, new stator coil and battery. The bike runs smooth in city, but I took it to Big Bear (CA) trails and on inclines and altitude the bike started stalling. Once stalled it wouldn’t start easy, after a few kicks in could get it running but it would kinda start dying which made me rev it more. I increased the idling and the fuel mix to make it rich but problem wasn’t fixed. Surprisingly when I can to staging area at sea level the bike was perfect, button start and responsive. Fellow riders were of the opinion it’s the float valve but it’s all conjectures. Any ideas if you’ve faced similar situation? And what could be the root cause? Thanks and stay safe! Sekhon
  12. Will 2003 DRZ 400 E side panels and radiator shrouds fit a 2015 DRZ SM? Thank you!!
  13. My klx400r/drz400e will not idle seems way too lean pops at closed throttle severe on deceleration. I've read hours and hours on TT and other sites for years before getting the courage to jet and fix my no idle hang idle and now I've made it worse jd jet kit 3x3 ce removed and 2 ports connected 1 plugged everything else the way i bought it used I recently found the o ring and washer was missing from the fuel screw Installed oe washer and oring from rmatvmc 1,500 to 3,500 elevation 2.75 turn fs 162 mj 45 pj Blue jd needle -4 I took a 180 mj out that someone installed but tbh it ran better before jd kit! It now has a bog sometimes that I didnt have with bottomed out stock needle and 180 mj I ride 100% offroad mostly single track or with my kid so slowish I'm ready to sell this green drz and go back to a 2t. HELP
  14. i recently crashed my drz and now it makes this noise. can anyone please tell me what is wrong so i can trry and fix it thank you so very much! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NgdnZe8XIs
  15. I recently bought a DRZ 400, and suddenly it started making a metallic clinking noise that I hear when letting the Throttle go to its original position. I do not know from where this is coming. The fist I did today was open the top head and check the valves clearances and all are cero (0). This concerns me a lot since I do not know almost anything of motorcycle mechanics. I know that I have to change the shims for ones that are thinner. What could be causing this problem? Can it cause any damage to the motor? Also another concerning thing that I found is that the valves are looking against each other instead of away each other like supposed for an S model. (With the motor aligned correctly) The previous owner told me that this bike even if it was “marked” as an S it look and uses parts like an E model. Could this have something to do? (Don’t this so but just asking) I would definitely appreciate any help, any idea of what this may cause or be caused by. Also, could this valves be badly mounted previously?
  16. I've got a DRZ400E that's street legal and I've been trying to get a drz400s subframe so I can load the back with gear for some longer trips. Does anyone have one they'd be willing to sell or know where to get one? I don't see any on eBay for a reasonable price. Thanks in advance!
  17. Hi everyone, first post here, need your knowledge on an issue I have. I bought a second-hand 2008 DRZ400 SM with Keihin FCR mod installed on recently and everything was ok, until yesterday I had this issue while riding. I had fuel on and my petcock set to "ON" position, my engine failed. After waiting a bit, thinking what to do, I tried to start the bike again and it started for a few more meters. When I turned the petcock to the "PRIME" position, the bike was rolling all good. But now I am completely confused about what is going on. The petcock has 3 positions, the "ON", the "PRIME" and the "RES". For some strange reason, I cannot turn the petcock to the "RES" position at all. Then, when I use the "ON" position, after a few meters the engine will die, either when I downshift and rev-match, or while giving gas, with a lot of popping noise coming from the exhaust. On the "PRIME" position the engine runs just fine, but the manual suggests that it shouldn't be left to "PRIME" for long periods? I suppose the previous owner did some misconfiguration? Any info would be helpful.
  18. Anyone have a feel for where Suzuki is at on there late model DRs as far as the known factory flaws (loctite fixes)? Picked up a 19 with 500 miles on it but I’ve never had one so new. I’ve heard mumblings that some of the issues were resolved in the late 2000’s but I’m not sure if that was true or if it was just lazy people who didn’t want to take the time to make it right trying to feel better about the reliability of there bike. Any help or advice would be great. The bike is a clean slate and I’m ready to get my hands dirty.
  19. Can you replace the wires in the 2 pin connector? I jumped the gun cutting the connector off and a friend had the male ends so I could have kept this together. I’ve watched a video showing removing the pins with a safety pin but I can’t figure out which way these release.
  20. Hey guys, alright so first things first. I bought a 2012 DR-Z400S Modded to high heavens (8K Miles) from a dealership in VA that did a trade in with the previous owner for a leftover new 2018 Beta I was first taught to ride when I was 10 on a tiny old '68 Yamaha DT50, I rode that until I was around 14-16 -__- lol and I was just about ALWAYS too tall for the bike I never owned my own bike and this is my first, it took me FOREVER to decide on what Make/model, but it all kept coming back to being able to hit the dirt, and hit it well. (with of course flexibility to hit the roads with my street biking friends) I had 0 clues as to what was installed on the bike when I bought it, but I knew it had a full exhaust, and a mixture of other mods that I could see but not 100% certify, but the dealership was a really nice mom and pop place that answered my questions and showed me the bike running/etc. and being as I was in New Jersey, it was important to me to find a place that wasn't just trying to push a bike on me. I did a lot of research prior to picking a DR-Z as my first bike and once I saw this gal with a bunch of mods for such a stellar price($3,900), I knew I had to go for it. I really am not sure why no one scooped this up prior to me because it was listed for a couple months and honestly it seemed like the dealership had her for around a year. I know the classic Suzuki Yellow the previous owner converted her into is not the most sought after, but that's just a couple bucks and some plastics exchanged. What I was more interested in was a bike that was taken care of with at least some of the mods that I had wanted to do done already. What I wound up getting is something that basically covered almost everything I had wanted. I just finished buying most of the additional stuff I wanted to do to her from this point and am extremely excited to start adding on and replacing things. I have yet to get her registered and get my riding permit (I need to go to two separate DMV's right now because of this COVID stuff in NJ and each one has had insane wait times the past 2-3 weeks after they first re-opened) so that is holding me back for now, but I've stripped her down to clean her up and install all of my new stuff(honestly it's really all mostly cosmetics at this point). Basically I am curious if you guys would help me out identifying some of the mods already done to her, give me your opinion on what YOU guys an gals(much more experienced than I) think of the bike/the mods done and planned to be done. Or maybe just share a little wisdom you learned with your DR-Z. I'm honestly open to anything and just so excited to have been riding her for a couple weeks now. It feels SOOOOOO good to be back on two wheels like this, she's just certainly a lot more power than I'm used to! Also, I'm not extremely new here, but definitely new to posting so feel free to let me know if I could be doing anything differently there too. I have more photos and a video of her running to so I'll try to get those added a bit later when I have some more time. Questions about the bike: Is there any way for me to tell if there's been engine work done? Hotcams/explosions/etc. The discoloration in the engine pieces makes me wonder what is going on there Is there any way for me to tell if there's been suspension work done? Is there anything you would suggest I do right off the bat with her? (take to mechanic for review/change oil/etc) I know she's low on rear brake fluid and coolant so guessing a coolant flush would be in order along with brake fluid Is there anyone in the NJ/PA/NY State areas that have some suggestions for riding locations?! I've downloaded OnX and some other apps to help me find spots, would love to get your guys opinions. Currently Modded Clarke Gas Tank JT 47t Rear Sprocket Sunstar 14t Front Sprocket (possibly wrong brand) Keihin FCR Flat Carb 39(not seeing any notification on what size/number it is) JD Jet Kit 3X3 Mod Full Yoshimura RS-2?? Stainless Exhaust (really confused about what version this is lol) TwinAir Airfilter IMS Super Stock Foot Pegs 12V Power Mod RMZ450 Front Fender ThumperTalk Case Savers MSR Extended Shift Lever ThumperTalk Skid Plate Unabiker Radiator Guards Windham Mid Rise Bars with ProTaper Risers Cycra ProBend Hand Guards ProTaper PillowTops DRC Edge 2 Fender Eliminator Michelin Enduro Medium Tire Set Some sort of cargo rack lol Possibly a chain guide? I think that's the Manual Cam Chain Tensioner on there Rear Brake Guard (this guy definitely makes her go faster 😉 To Mod/Change TST Fender Eliminator Add TST Blinkers (I had bought these Amazon Kinesteks versions prior to TST being in stock so may try them first) 12 o'clock labs Flasher Relay Zeta Pro XC Handguards w LED set Depending on if I use those Kinstecks LED blinkers or want the Zeta LED handguards to be, I did get the running light adapter from 12o'clock as well (I want people to see me on the road lol) ProTaper PillowTop Light Grips Plastics kit for black (I'm going black and yellow with red/gold accents for the overall design/look right now) B&B Offroad Cargo Rack B&B Offroad Front Sprocket Protector New Front Headlight/Plastics Assembly I went with a knock-off chinese version here but am completely willing to keep what I have and upgrade to one of those nice bulb replacements or go with a more standard Ascerbis/etc replacement for it. Any advice welcome there! SM style front fender Doubletake Enduro Mirror New 50/50 Tires - Right now the Heidenau K60s are top of the list for riding around the streets with friends and to be able to hop off when I see spots Clean the Exhaust to shine and add new Exhaust Stickers - She'll practically fly at that point eh?? Thanks a lot guys, really looking forward to discussing it a bit more and learning what I can from everyone and of course being a bit more active on the forum hahahaa Hugely appreciate the tons and tons of info already on this forum, it's helped me immensely!
  21. Hi, I bought a fender eliminator for my 2020 drz400sm and I have everything wired up the way the instructions said to but my blinkers are giving me grief. The blinkers work but flash very fast as if i have a blinker out, ill attach pictures of what I have hooked up, there are 2 wires from the blinkers I have unused. Any help us greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  22. So I currently have a 2009 Drz400SM with the usual stuff, factory carb with JD jetting on it, 3X3 airbox mod. I’m trying to upgrade my carb to the FCR 39 and wanted to hear some opinions in which exhaust would be a good combination for it. I currently have the Yoshimura RS3 slip on. I was thinking on getting the full RS2 Yoshimura exhaust system or the Barker’s performance but I’m open to listen to any opinions.
  23. Can anyone hazard a guess on how close the S with SM wheels is in ride height to a SM. The S has always bugged me as being tall. I have an S that I put a lot of money in but am more interested in an SM now. I hate to waste what Ive spent. I went wild with bigger better street bikes but am suspicious Id regret selling the DRZ. Id lose big too. How much better would the SM be suspension wise. I did gold valve and respring the forks and shock. For dirt though, of course. Thanks
  24. Kinda new on here and apparently posted this in wrong section yesterday. So here we go again. Anyone have any idea why my blinkers won’t flash on my drz sm. When I turn them on they do light up, but they stay solid. I did switch to integrated blinkers from zeta which Integrate into the hand guard. But they’ve been working fine until a few days ago. I know people say you need the load resistor or diode circuit. But personally I don’t care about hyper flash and tbh when I hooked them up they didn’t hyper flash and they’ve been working fine. So I can’t imagine that would be the problem here. Got to be something else. Any one had similar problem or hear about this?
  25. So I have a 2007 DRZ with a vacuum petcock. Many people want to change this to a manual petcock - this is not cheap in the UK. This is a quick and easy way to convert the vacuum petcock into a manual one. First some background that might save others wasted time: I looked for suitable alternatives, and bought an aftermarket Yamaha RAPTOR which seemed to get a lot of positive write ups. But there are lots of issues with it! The diameter of the fuel outflow pipe is only 6mm on the Yamaha petcock (8mm on the old and the fuel intake into the Carb). Fuel pipes can only one internal diameter so this will immediately require an awkward mod! The length of the ‘ON’ fuel intake pipe is about half that of the original – so when you have to switch to reserve, you will have very little time to find fuel! The fuel outflow from the replacement Petcock is sideways and towards the Carb (where there is no space) as opposed to down (like the original) where there is plenty of space. (apparently if you have an oversize plastic fuel tank this is not a problem – but if you have an original metal one then it is). The quality is not as robust as the original Suzuki Here are the two side by side: So I looked for low cost alternatives, and could not see any….. so I took the vacuum petcock apart to see if it could be easily converted into a manual petcock. And weirdly it is really easy. Instructions for conversion: 1. You want to permanently close the vacuum valve. You can achieve this is various ways (you will need to seal the pipe coming out of the carb and the pipe going into the petcock). This was already done on my bike – the pipes were cut, and bolts glued in in order to seal them. NOTE: If you are happy with sealing the tubes then you will NOT need to unscrew the 5 screws that give access to the vacuum valve (the OPTIONAL step below) I chose to go one step further in the Petcock, and removed the light spring that keeps the vacuum valve closed and used some spare rubber (folded old innertube wrapped in tape) to create a plug the pressed the valve closed with more certainty. This was easy and took a few minutes. 2. You need to allow the switch to create alternate paths for fuel flow: Take the 2 screws out from the front of the switch, and take it off. The plate that has FUEL/ON/RES/PRI stamped on it, has a little lug at the top of the inner circle. You need to file that off, then put it back together. In the picture to the left, you can see what looks like a face. This is what you have achieved: The left eye socket- the main fuel comes down the pipe from above. It can then flow either towards the front or towards the rear. You have blocked the rear by disabling the vacuum valve (lighter colour silver in the photo). So this is now your Main fuel source ("ON"). The right eye socket is your reserve fuel source ("RES"). The only way to send fuel to your carb is to connect one of the eyes to the mouth. (You can see the left hand side of the mouth has a path that allows flow to the Carb - this was used for priming it before. Depending on which eye you create a path to, will affect if you are running ON or on RES). NOTE: The labels around the tap are now all misleading! see below. 3. The switch can now create different paths for the fuel to flow along. When it is pointing: UP fuel is ON (You are connecting the left eye to the mouth), DOWN and it is RES (You are connecting the right eye to the mouth) Pointing RIGHT it is OFF (there is no open path between either eye and the mouth). I have just put it all back together and tested it, and it all works exactly as described above, so this seems a very simple way to convert a petcock and appears to work fine.
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