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  1. Hello, I need your help, FAST. … Thanks in advance. Please check out this ad. … The seller tells me the third owner but the bike is only 2 yeas old and the miles are very low. https://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2016-suzuki-drz400sm/6604761265.html … I cannot think of any reason that a bike would have 3 owners in that short time. … The current owner swears it's all good. … One other strange thing is that it is claimed to have the 3x3 mod and to have been jetted but it has the stock exhaust, which would restrict and nullify these mods. … He is supposed to call me back with the VIN#, later today. … USED DRZs are as rare as hen's teeth, in this neck of the woods and I want one. … The seller also has a foreign accent, which makes me think he is some sort of "trader". … I am also worried about some sort of VIN#-bait-n-switch scam … Note that this ad was posted more than one week ago, so, no other buyers, in that time. Any thoughts or advice ? … Should I bail ? … I need to make a decision, today. … How do I verify that everything is kosher? … Are there any known scams where they switch the bike or the paperwork ? … Where else should I post this request for information? Thank you all for your responses. https://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2016-suzuki-drz400sm/6604761265.html
  2. I know there’s another tire post already. But it seems like no ones updated it in about 5 years and obviously even though drz’s haven’t changed much over the years tire technology sure has. I’m shopping for tires now and reviews are all over the place. What one person says is great another hates, one says tread last forever another says it’s gone too soon. Obviously bike, rider, and riding style, among a host of other factors play a huge part. Just wanted to see what every ones got on theirs as well as a few questions. I see most guys riding 150’s instead of 140’s. Is this actually an improvement in handling or just because lack of options at the 140 size? As far as guys riding a sport tire do you find it still warms up the same on a lighter bike? An lastly yes I do understand it’s the only thing between you and the ground so please don’t go to crazy on me. But, are the super expensive sport tires over the top seeing as your not taking your bike anywhere near those tires capabilities and your drz isn’t going over 100 mph?
  3. I was wondering if my drz400sm can be fully switch with a kickstart and would she start without a batterie, need a lighter bike:)😆 thankss!
  4. I recently performed a nut-and-bolt rebuild / restoration on a 2004 KLX400R - or a Green DRZ - for those that haven't seen one. It only had 3000 original miles on the clock...but one thing quickly lead to another. and the bike was in a million bits. Lucky I am retired I guess. Frame blasted & 2-packed. Wheels respoked using stainless spokes. Everything detailed or soda blasted Registered and on the road....these are mostly the old plastics but I have a complete brand new set with replica graphics set put aside. Brand new Staintune exhaust The maiden voyage was to be the outback so I also have a 16L Acerbis tank, case savers and luggage racks all ready to go. Other than the exhaust much of the stuff is used refurbished, just to keep the budget in check. I only put 300km (less than 200 miles) on the bike for testing and setup purposes. Needless to say I was pretty unprepared and the bike handled like a sack of s**t. The front wheel felt like it was on marbles any time the sand or gravel was of a certain type or buildup. In 45 years of motorbike riding I have never felt so slow and over cautious! Lucky for me I was travelling in good company with seasoned racebike builders, helicopter and airplane engineers, so we spent a good deal of time around the campfire trying to sort through my handling issues. We tried & checked a myriad of things but to get the wheels to track inline required the RHS snail cam to be 2 clicks more than the LHS. After we got back I turned up a set of equal length shafts with pointers on the end, convinced that I had spent all my efforts on a bent frame. Each one of these shafts was set through the center of the hollow pivot points (incl. headstock, front axle) , allowing a tape measure to be used with some degree of certainty. The results were all within +/- 1mm (0.040") meaning that the frame and swingarm should be straight enough for a dirt bike. Note: My measuring ability tolerance would be only in the vicinity of +/- 1mm (0.040") anyway. (The concrete can't be used as a reference surface as it can be up to 3mm out!). What I did find though is that the front wheel was offset 8mm (5/16") to the right from the bike centerline. Oh crap... my front end must be bent because the rim is still central between the forks. My friend bought his 2015 DRZ over and we measured up his bike. Using the stringline method his offset error was less than a millimeter whereas mine was still around 8mm or so. After taking off his front guard we found that the frame front downtube was also offset to the bike centerline, just like mine. The rim offsets were the same - central on both bikes measured off the discs. The tell tale was that his rear tyre was more central between the swingarm than mine so we measured up swingarm offsets. Mine was 18.5mm and his was 9.5mm. Oh crap...now the swingarm is bent. Lucky I have some leftovers from my parts bike...ex-army Special Forces Suzuki. Lets measure that one up... Hmmm...what would be the chances of having a 2004 Kawasaki & a 2005 Suzuki swingarm being bent within 1 mm of each other? If only I measured the sprocket alignment in the beginning. They are both out by 7.5mm - further evidence that the swingarm is bent or offset. BTW, the sprockets still wear pretty good considering they are so far out! The factory wouldn't have sorted out this problem would they? The part number is the same for the swingarm from 2000 up until 2019. I have searched & searched and found nothing to indicate that there was a batch of bad swingarms built. An opportunity arose to get a brand new swingarm, removed from a bike in 2007, cheaper than the price of a set of bearings, so I got it. Well bugger me, this swingarm measures identical to the 2004 & 2005 units. So after all of this epic-Corona-virus-tale....my questions are: Q1. What year did Suzuki fix the swingarm alignment issue? All I know now is that it is after 2007 but before 2015. Q2. Is this common knowledge or have people been under the illusion that their bike has been accident damaged when it possibly hasn't at all? It's OK to tell me if I am crazy.
  5. Previous owner installed this. Extreme frustration trying to mount plate properly. So I engineered a proper adapter. Ya Ya, I know already, making a mountain out of a mole-hill, but you can't argue with the result. Probably thrown some paint on it or maybe print again in Black now that I know it works so well. Although white does not look bad since the plate is white anyway. Will eventually get new bolts for mounting and cut down the flat-head ones, after putting nylocks on. 3D printed from PETG, super tough material. Designed in Fusion 360.
  6. I was wondering how would I go about converting a KLR650's single exhaust tip into dual twin tips for under 200$ (example picture below). Is there a pre made system already made?, are there converters and other pipes pieces I can put together to build it?, or is something I have create entirely on my own by cutting and bending pipes? thanks
  7. I got a 2009 DRZ-125L, changing plugs, the spark plug is not seating right; it won't screw in all the way, it just gets hung up about 1/4 way in, then when I use the socket wrench to twist it in it won't go all the way in, and the washer just hangs there jangling around. WTH? I used a flashlight and ran a sculpting tool around the insides of the machined rings in the engine case where the plug goes in and I did find a bit of a rough patch which shed some tiny slivers of aluminum. What do I do next? Is it safe to run (?) or will it even run with the plug sticking 1/4 to 1/3rd of the way out? Thanks.
  8. Hello everyone, This is my first post here so I apologize if I'm posting in the wrong thread or something like that. Anyways, a few days ago(Friday the 13th) I decided to take my 2001 Drz400E out for a spin in the woods outside my neighborhood. Long story short, I drowned the thing. Three hours and a lot of cussing later and I got the thing out of the mud and back home. Moral of the story? Stick to the trails. When I got the thing back home I discovered two problems: 1.) The bike was leaking coolant, No clue where from. 2.) The bike wouldn't rev over 4.5k rpm. If I give it more gas, it stalls. I did some research on the rev thing and apparently cleaning the carb/jet fixes this(If anyone can confirm this it'd be helpful). I removed the carb, cleaned it, and everything looks fine. I haven't tested it, however, because of the coolant leak. I figured running the bike with next to no coolant probably isn't a good idea. I also don't feel like putting everything back on the bike just to end up tearing it apart to fix the other stuff. I heard from a friend that water could have caused a gasket to leak, but I'm not exactly eager to tear apart my engine to find out. If you guys could give me any advice, it'd be a big help(Especially since I've got a road trip planned for memorial day).
  9. Hello all. I need some help with jetting my european DRZ400SM, my current configuration is as follows: - 3x3 mod, restricted solenoid valve, stock exhaust, Twin Air foam filter - Mikuni 36, Dynojet Stage 2 (3110.002 - U.S. only) - 150 MJ, DJ needle, 3rd clip, 3,5 turns out (22,5) I tried to set jetting according to manual and then change it to as above (and multiple anothers combination), but its still not the best configuration. Here are my symptoms - Bike runs fine, fine acceleration, but has a flat spot before 6000 RPM (calculated by current gear and speed) and while cruising. After it gets over 6k RPM it runs fine and strong. Before that and while cruising there is slight hesitation. I had needle on 5th clip before (for a long time), recently i have changed it to the 3rd and its mutch better, but with hesitation as i descibed above. I want to try change needle to 4th so I will see if it helps, then try to use one size smaller main jet and needle to 2th but I want to check it with you before I will try this - I don't have all day to trying it Today I was testing main jet again and I think its run a little bit better (just a little :D) without side cover -> so it's probably rich. My questions: Do you know on which elevation is Dynojet tested? I am on cca 400m (1300 ft) above the sea with temperatures around 23°C (73°F) so I would like to make a sure the reccomended settings for Dynojet Stage 2 will work for me. Also I read that DRZ eu model has different air jet so I am also not sure if i don't need to change anything else than what comes with DJ by default. If you have any suggestions on jetting that may works, please comment :). Also I am enclosing current spark plug - i guess the color is ok, maybe a little bit rich. Thank you.
  10. I have a 2014 DRZ400SM with about 28,000 miles on it. I have had it since last summer. Since then, I have done the 3x3 mod with a JD jetting kit and added a K&N Air filter. I have been running a 155 Main Jet, the Blue Needle with the clip on the 3rd slot, a 125 pilot jet, etc. Basically, exactly as recommended by JD. The bike was running fine until recently. It started sputtering, backfiring, and missing around 5k rpm, especially in higher gears. I thought maybe this was due to the weather warming up, and I was too rich. I tried swapping out the main jet to a 145 (the next smallest size I had handy), but it was doing the same thing. I tried then switching to a 160 main, and it seemed a little better, but then it was doing the same thing. I thought maybe it was something more complicated than just the carb, so I checked the valve clearances. They all looked good and were in spec. In the process, I checked the sparkplug and it looked suspect, so I replaced it. No Dice, still sputtering at 4-7k rpm. I was riding it, trying to further diagnose it, and I noticed some white smoke coming out the exhaust (coolant?). The Oil looks normal (no milkshake of death) on the dipstick, so maybe not a head gasket issue. Would that even cause the problems I've been having? I also noticed a screw had escaped from the top of the carb (that holds the black cover on). Surely that must be the problem! I replaced it and... still the same issue. I tried recording the issue, though apparently didn't have much space on the memory card, and the sound is not as clear as I expected. I can try re-recording some footage to demonstrate the issue. Anyone have any idea what could be the problem? I may just try to revert as much back to stock as I can (don't have the stock exhaust). I am beginning to wonder if the issue is not related to the carb at all. Thanks in advance.
  11. This is a battle I have fought ever since I got my bike. I have had the carburetor rebuilt, also re-jetted with a JD Jet kit. I have the 160 main jet, 25 pilot jet, and blue needle on the 3rd clip. 3X3 mod, yoshi exhaust, and this is on the BSR36 carb. When the bike gets warm, when I come to a very hard stop the bike slowly drops in revs and dies out. I am trying to get better at stoppies, and every time I put the back wheel down the engine is already dead. I cant progress any further unless I get this issue fixed. I have gone through all the vacuum lines, made sure there is no fueling issues up until the carburetor. I have pulled the bowl off many times thinking that the float is stuck and I have never found it stuck. If anyone has any ideas of what it could be, any ideas would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks everyone!
  12. I bought a 2018 DRZ 400SM last month off the floor. I have always wanted this bike and saw it as I walked by to the parts counter. I left the store then turned around and walked back in and bought it! A little about myself, I have ridden dirtbikes and ATV's my entire life. I also worked at a bigger shop as a "C Tech" for 2 years and I work on all my own stuff. I instantly took the new DRZ home and started to order parts, Fender eliminator kit with smoke tail light and integrated turn signals, front flush signals, the "angel eyes" head lights off amazon and took off the warning stickers/ reflectors. The bike didn't have enough power for me and I could tell it was running fairly lean at the top end. With 200 miles and its first oil change I decided to buy a full Yoshimura RS-2 carbon fiber, JD jets and do the 3x3 (ended up doing 3"x 3.5" to make it centered). After installing the carb I noticed the filter side boot has what appears to be chunks missing where it attaches to carb. At first I was thinking from moving the carb back and forth working it out maybe it caught the edges and sliced pieces off. But those boots in my experience are pretty tuff and made with good material. I have rejetted dirt bikes and such a lot and never seen a boot have what looks like damage like that from taking carb on and off. I started to worry about pieces inside the intake and possibly being forced into the top end. So thought I would search around and see if the boot is just like that. I am probably going to take the carb back off and make sure but would like some input. Another aspect is that I didn't see any of the pieces outside the carb or in the area where I was working. So could all pieces have went into the intake and none fallen on ground? doesn't seem like that's possible. I will attach some photos, the one of bike is before exhaust, still waiting for it to arrive. Thanks fellas!
  13. I would like to claim that this is the “ultimate” installation guide, but there are too many really smart guys out there, and they will have observations that I missed, so I restricted my bragging in the title. Before doing the install, I researched this forum and online quite a bit, and did not find all the info that I needed, hence the motivation to pay it forward to you. First, how to buy the kit: I recommend that you call Trail Tech and order directly from them, or at least confirm exactly what kit you need. The engineers at Trail Tech have made a superb product, and it can be installed on just about anything except a horse, but you need the correct connectors and sensors to get it to install on your specific ride! I got kit 752-113, and an extra set of wheel magnets. (In my case, I have two sets of wheels (knobbies on one and street tires on the others) so I needed two sets of wheel sensor magnets.) Next, Trail Tech has a fancy shroud, that custom fits the Vapor display, and replaces the indicator lights for turn signals, high beam, overheat, etc. I test rode a bike that had these and found the lights to be too small and dim to reliably warn me, so designed my new dash to incorporate the OEM four light warning cluster, which I kept. The instructions that come with the kit are pretty solid, and I won’t repeat them here, only the observations that I made. 1. Power: You can use the White 3 wire plug (that you will find in the rat's nest, connecting the OEM speedo) as follows: cut off and insulate the orange lead, use the red lead for power (put in an inline fuse) for the unit, and the black lead as your ground. Yes, this means that the unit is always powered, but it goes totally dormant within minutes of being stopped, and consumes approx zero power when running. Some folks choose to find a switched power source so that the unit is unpowered when the key is off, this is unnecessary. . 2. Temperature Sensor: the kit comes with a variety of methods of getting engine temperature information. It has an insert that can be put into a rad hose line by cutting the hose and putting on two hose clamps. This would be a real pain, and will give you issues with the limited space in which you have to work. The kit also includes a temperature sensor that very easily and neatly bolts into the drain plug hole on the top of the left rad……yup, you got it, go with the drain plug option. Now how to set it: the cooling system has two temperatures of interest: - the water temperature sensor for the Fan cut in is located in the left rad and is visible in the left photo two below (sort of light blue resin to seal the wires in it). It is set to turn the fan on at 205F (96C in Canada eh) and then off at 196F (91C) as the engine cools - not in the photos: the overtemp sensor is in the right rad, and it triggers the OEM red overheat light at 243F (117C) So, I chose to set my Vapor to have the yellow temp warning light on the vapor to come on at 94C so that it would illuminate shortly before the fan cuts in…sort of to draw my attention to heat. I set the Vapor to have the red temp warning light come on at 115C which is lower than the setting for the red OEM warning, but the OEM warning is sensed in the right rad where the hottest coolant is found, as it is there that the coolant first arrives when it exits the engine. I may set this lower to give me a mid-way warning, before I actually get the red OEM warning light. 3. Tachometer: the diagram and instructions are great. They recommend wrapping the sensor antenna wire (red) around the spark plug lead “5” times. You are creating an antenna to pick up the signal that is created when the plug fires; I recommend you wrap it 7-10 wraps. The more wraps, the better the signal the vapor computer will get, and the greater the likelihood you will have a good reading. As this area gets hot, I recommend you attach this red antenna line with a couple of zip ties. 4. Speedometer: the instructions are superb. I found that the magnetic brake disk bolt option worked easily, and is unlikely to come unglued. The pickup sensor that detects the passage of this magnetic bolt on each revolution of the wheel is shown mounted on the front of the front fork tube…DON’T DO IT! I assume you are putting this on a DRZ-400S” because you intend to ride it in the dirt and trails…and those bushes/branches will strip off your sensor on the first ride. With a little experimentation you can mount it on the back side of the fork tube where it is very protected. 5. Front Wheel Speedo Assembly options: Finally, you are left with the choice of what to do with the old speedo assembly. Some folks apparently plug the hole in the speedo hub so water won’t get in, and continue to use the speedo hub as a spacer (with those gears whirling around and the seal wearing…). My choice was to remove the speedo hub altogether, order another front wheel left side spacer to use on the right side, and order and install another left side hub seal and install it on the right side. This gives you identical setups on both sides, takes the old speedo hub and gears out completely, and gives you a more waterproof setup. 6. Data Setting: There are a few numbers you need to setup the computer so it will work for you: Wheel Size: start with 2110, and adjust when you calibrate. This is the nominal circumference of the front tire, and should represent the distance travelled in one revolution of the tire. PPR (pulses per revolution) set this to “1”. Yup, I know that this is a four stroke, and only has one power stroke for each two revolutions….but the engineers that designed the bike figured out it was way easier (I mean WAY easier) to have the spark plug fire every revolution, and when it fires on the top of the exhaust stroke nothing happens…..so, the plug fires every revolution and hence the number you need is 1. I have already suggested some settings for you to try for the temperature lights, and leave the RPM warnings to your own tastes. 7. Odometer: If you are as detail oriented as I, you will want to set the mileage that is already on the bike into this new odometer. All you need do is contact Trail Tech and they will send you the instructions to do this. 8. Dash : yes, you will need to make your own dash to mount this new kit on. I went to a hardware store and got an aluminum door kick plate, and made a rough template, and then made a better one, etc. til I was happy. There are enough threaded holes in the upper triple clamp to offer you a variety of ways to bolt a mounting bracket on; I used oversized holes and got rubber grommets from a hardware store to insulate my new dash from the worst of the pounding from the big thumper and the rough road. Hope these hints, in addition to the very good instructions that come with the kit, make your experience smooth and easy. Good Riding!
  14. I decided to replace my factory tool kit bag with a waterproof pelican style case. I did this for a couple of reasons. The case is waterproof, lockable and provides more space than the factory bag. I can keep additional items in there like ownership and insurance. Multi-tool and JB weld along with the factory tools. I think it looks cooler too, but that's subjective. The case I used is a Seahorse SE 56. They come in different colors. They're pretty affordable. The ridges on the bottom of the case line up with the bolt holes exactly. You pretty much need to drill two pilot holes right in the center of each ridge and then use a different bit large enough for the factory bolts to fit through the holes. After that, just go to the hardware store, buy two new bolts that are a bit longer than factory with two corresponding flat washers and a couple of rubber grommets. You can reuse the factory nuts (take them with you to the hardware store along with the bolts to find the correct longer bolts) Aside from that, you'll' need to buy two rubber grommets to act as spacers between the fender and the case. You should be able to source this stuff for less than a few bucks. Slide the bolts and washers through the inside of the case holes you drilled, place two rubber grommets on the fender around the factory holes and slide the bolts through the factory holes and the grommets and button her up. The case should remain waterproof since the inside of the case is all rubber. The washers and bolts snug up against the rubber and maintain the seal. It's a pretty simple mod and doesn't add much weight or cost. Let me know if you have any questions.
  15. Can anyone hazard a guess on how close the S with SM wheels is in ride height to a SM. The S has always bugged me as being tall. I have an S that I put a lot of money in but am more interested in an SM now. I hate to waste what Ive spent. I went wild with bigger better street bikes but am suspicious Id regret selling the DRZ. Id lose big too. How much better would the SM be suspension wise. I did gold valve and respring the forks and shock. For dirt though, of course. Thanks
  16. Hey guys, alright so first things first. I bought a 2012 DR-Z400S Modded to high heavens (8K Miles) from a dealership in VA that did a trade in with the previous owner for a leftover new 2018 Beta I was first taught to ride when I was 10 on a tiny old '68 Yamaha DT50, I rode that until I was around 14-16 -__- lol and I was just about ALWAYS too tall for the bike I never owned my own bike and this is my first, it took me FOREVER to decide on what Make/model, but it all kept coming back to being able to hit the dirt, and hit it well. (with of course flexibility to hit the roads with my street biking friends) I had 0 clues as to what was installed on the bike when I bought it, but I knew it had a full exhaust, and a mixture of other mods that I could see but not 100% certify, but the dealership was a really nice mom and pop place that answered my questions and showed me the bike running/etc. and being as I was in New Jersey, it was important to me to find a place that wasn't just trying to push a bike on me. I did a lot of research prior to picking a DR-Z as my first bike and once I saw this gal with a bunch of mods for such a stellar price($3,900), I knew I had to go for it. I really am not sure why no one scooped this up prior to me because it was listed for a couple months and honestly it seemed like the dealership had her for around a year. I know the classic Suzuki Yellow the previous owner converted her into is not the most sought after, but that's just a couple bucks and some plastics exchanged. What I was more interested in was a bike that was taken care of with at least some of the mods that I had wanted to do done already. What I wound up getting is something that basically covered almost everything I had wanted. I just finished buying most of the additional stuff I wanted to do to her from this point and am extremely excited to start adding on and replacing things. I have yet to get her registered and get my riding permit (I need to go to two separate DMV's right now because of this COVID stuff in NJ and each one has had insane wait times the past 2-3 weeks after they first re-opened) so that is holding me back for now, but I've stripped her down to clean her up and install all of my new stuff(honestly it's really all mostly cosmetics at this point). Basically I am curious if you guys would help me out identifying some of the mods already done to her, give me your opinion on what YOU guys an gals(much more experienced than I) think of the bike/the mods done and planned to be done. Or maybe just share a little wisdom you learned with your DR-Z. I'm honestly open to anything and just so excited to have been riding her for a couple weeks now. It feels SOOOOOO good to be back on two wheels like this, she's just certainly a lot more power than I'm used to! Also, I'm not extremely new here, but definitely new to posting so feel free to let me know if I could be doing anything differently there too. I have more photos and a video of her running to so I'll try to get those added a bit later when I have some more time. Questions about the bike: Is there any way for me to tell if there's been engine work done? Hotcams/explosions/etc. The discoloration in the engine pieces makes me wonder what is going on there Is there any way for me to tell if there's been suspension work done? Is there anything you would suggest I do right off the bat with her? (take to mechanic for review/change oil/etc) I know she's low on rear brake fluid and coolant so guessing a coolant flush would be in order along with brake fluid Is there anyone in the NJ/PA/NY State areas that have some suggestions for riding locations?! I've downloaded OnX and some other apps to help me find spots, would love to get your guys opinions. Currently Modded Clarke Gas Tank JT 47t Rear Sprocket Sunstar 14t Front Sprocket (possibly wrong brand) Keihin FCR Flat Carb 39(not seeing any notification on what size/number it is) JD Jet Kit 3X3 Mod Full Yoshimura RS-2?? Stainless Exhaust (really confused about what version this is lol) TwinAir Airfilter IMS Super Stock Foot Pegs 12V Power Mod RMZ450 Front Fender ThumperTalk Case Savers MSR Extended Shift Lever ThumperTalk Skid Plate Unabiker Radiator Guards Windham Mid Rise Bars with ProTaper Risers Cycra ProBend Hand Guards ProTaper PillowTops DRC Edge 2 Fender Eliminator Michelin Enduro Medium Tire Set Some sort of cargo rack lol Possibly a chain guide? I think that's the Manual Cam Chain Tensioner on there Rear Brake Guard (this guy definitely makes her go faster 😉 To Mod/Change TST Fender Eliminator Add TST Blinkers (I had bought these Amazon Kinesteks versions prior to TST being in stock so may try them first) 12 o'clock labs Flasher Relay Zeta Pro XC Handguards w LED set Depending on if I use those Kinstecks LED blinkers or want the Zeta LED handguards to be, I did get the running light adapter from 12o'clock as well (I want people to see me on the road lol) ProTaper PillowTop Light Grips Plastics kit for black (I'm going black and yellow with red/gold accents for the overall design/look right now) B&B Offroad Cargo Rack B&B Offroad Front Sprocket Protector New Front Headlight/Plastics Assembly I went with a knock-off chinese version here but am completely willing to keep what I have and upgrade to one of those nice bulb replacements or go with a more standard Ascerbis/etc replacement for it. Any advice welcome there! SM style front fender Doubletake Enduro Mirror New 50/50 Tires - Right now the Heidenau K60s are top of the list for riding around the streets with friends and to be able to hop off when I see spots Clean the Exhaust to shine and add new Exhaust Stickers - She'll practically fly at that point eh?? Thanks a lot guys, really looking forward to discussing it a bit more and learning what I can from everyone and of course being a bit more active on the forum hahahaa Hugely appreciate the tons and tons of info already on this forum, it's helped me immensely!
  17. Hi All, I have a DRZ 400 SM (2008) in need of new stator assembly. I live in the UK and have had the bike since 2014. Had no issues with it until it was stolen and crashed. They cracked the side stator cover and it has had charging issues ever since. My local garage have identified a fried stator. So it needs replacing. (Cover being replaced too). A genuine Suzuki part over her is £520 ($658 USD) which is a price I'm finding hard to accept......so am looking aftermarket part. Recommendations would be greatly appreciated! I've come across RMSTATOR and Ricky Stator, but unsure of what to buy. Plenty of US and Canadian suppliers but not much over in the UK. But happy to pay for shipping in there is nothing local to me. Thanks a lot in advance!! Desperate to gt back running well. Ged
  18. hi all. my drz blew its top end last year and im in the process of doing a full rebuild on the engine.(i want to do it myself for the learning experience... and bragging rights of course) ive stripped it down and have bought a rebuild kit from wrench rabbit, im now at the stage where i can start putting the bottom end back together and ive suddenly got the fear. im worried that i might do something wrong in the rebuild prossess, i am wondering if anyone has any tips or knows of anything i should be aware of before starting reassembly. for example i learned when installing a new cylinder it needs to piston, i thought the rings would account for this. any tips are apreciated however small they may seem. thanks
  19. I have an idle issue I just can't seem to solve after having the carby apart several times. I finally gave in and orders an O-ring set for the middle of the carby but am having an issue getting th body separated on account of the epoxy joining it together and I am worried I might crack of break something if I use too much force. I've removed the 4 screws. Does any have any tips for separating the halves on the carb body?
  20. DRZ 400 Swingarm Pivot Bolt Removal Tool In Aug 2018 I bought a 2016 DRZ400S which had very low mileage. In the fall I decided to pull the Pivot Bolt for the swingarm, just on spec….yep it was corroded, but saveable. I used the concept from “2 Wheels” that was posted in the FAQ area, and adapted it to make it more effective. His concept used a section of pipe, washers, nuts, and a 3 foot section of threaded rod. As is indicated in the FAQ article, the limits of this puller is the strength of the threads on the rod, as once you reach the limit, if the bolt has not moved, further tightening simply strips the threads. His technique then involved hammering on the other end of the rod, which is a challenge to do without damaging things. I adapted his idea as follows: - using the same rod, - locking two or three nuts on the chaser end that will follow the bolt as it is pulled, and rounding them on a grinder to a size slightly smaller than the pivot bolt - taking the 3 pound slide weight off my slide hammer and putting it on the other side - using multiple washers and 4 nuts locked together on the end of the rod. The technique: pull the rod through the pivot bolt until the chaser nuts are solidly in contact with the threaded end of the pivot bolt, then slide the 3lb weight on, then multiple fender washers, then 4 nuts. I then started a series of blows with the 3 pound slide weight against the washers/nuts on the end of the threaded rod, to pull the bolt. This allowed for significant impact force to be imported on the pivot bolt with no issue of missing/damaging things, and it completely avoided the stripping the threads issue as the nuts are not turned and are locked in a combo of 4 together to spread the force. My clever plan, if the normal grade threaded rod could not hold the stress was to get a rod with a much higher SAE rating and do it again…but I was fortunate and the stock rod was enough for me. Here is the image of the “chaser” end, which is two nuts locked together and ground down on the grinder to a diameter just smaller than the pivot bolt. And here are a couple of images of the slide hammer or puller side: And Finally, here is my pivot bolt after one very short season and no real mileage!!!!
  21. Hey guys, I think its time to ask a 2018 FRC MX 39 question. I know theres a thousand discussions on this (But most prior to 2011 and its 7 years later... just saying) Do you leave the 100 Pilot Air Jet in or not??? Look it up and you get different answers (Both with good reasons). Just want to know leave it in, and why? Or take it out and why? My Elevation 1,200ft Temp = Pennsylvania (Means it could be 80 degrees today and 40 degrees tomorrow) My Mods MRD Exhaust 160 main jet 45 pilot jet EMN needle clip 3 200 main air jet 100 pilot air jet 2 turns fuel screw o-ring mod
  22. Time Left: 16 hours and 31 minutes

    • FOR SALE
    • Used - Good

    Suzuki DRZ 400. This is a desert oriented DRZ and has been well maintained by a passionate owner. Some people call this the DRZ 400 K or "kicker" model because it is kick start only to save weight. The K model is the most "serious" version of the DRZ. It came from the factory with pumper carb, hot cams, light flywheel, no battery, no lights, and with adjustable rebound and compression front and rear. I have beefed things up a bit for long distance desert riding with long range tank, suspension, jetting, exhaust, handlebars, guards, pegs, GPS computer, and street legal light/horn kit. It has clean AZ title and current registration but is located in southern California (Oceanside). I trust this machine to take me deep into the desert and would love to keep it forever. I'm in no rush to sell. I really want it to go to a loving home and a rider who will appreciate it. Selling because I want garage space for my next project.

    $4,000

    Oceanside, California - US

  23. I dropped my 2019 DRZ-400S and the Crankcase is leaking, it was punctured by the shifter and oil leaked all out. Do I need to get a whole new crankcase or can I just JB Weld it and refill with oil and ride home? I had to leave the moto far from my home and either need to fix it asap with jbweld/oil or tow it home and order parts... which would cost me too much Please help me asap, this is my daily commuter and its costing me a fortune to rideshare back and forth to work. Always lurked around this Awesome forum but Joined today for my question. thank you guys in advance!!
  24. Hello all, I’m needing to pull my gas tank off of my 01 Suzuki DRZ400S to run a new switch relay to a set of LED lights. I am wondering if the gas tank will drip fuel every where if my carb/petcock does not have a fuel SHUTOFF setting? The petcock has the run, secondary and prime positions. I am also wondering if there is any reason why I wouldn’t or shouldn’t tie my new auxiliary lights directly to my headlight switch? The LED pods draw very low amperage. If this can be done, then there is no reason for me to pull the tank. Thanks for the advice, Mescalito
  25. I have a 2000 drz400s that i just put a 440 kit in with stage 2 hotcams, it has an open air box and a pro circuit exhaust. what size jets should i put in it since i just put the cams and big bore in it?
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