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  1. My question is i want to do a big bore with the stroker crank. I was always planning on doing the 435 athena kit with the +4 stroker. But i recently came across the 453 big bore sleeve by la sleeve. Does anybody have this kit mixed with the stroker crank if so hows the reliability, any input would be great!
  2. Will 2003 DRZ 400 E side panels and radiator shrouds fit a 2015 DRZ SM? Thank you!!
  3. I recently purchased a 2003 DR-Z400s. This whole set-up is new to me, the last dirt bikes that I have are 1970's DT endure 2-Strokes. I have no contact info for the previous owner so there is a lot to be determined about the upgrades that have been to the bike. I'm guessing that the suspension springs have been changed but am wondering how can I tell? The sag check showed very close to perfect: Free = 19 1/8" Static = 18 7/8" (could be a little more?) Sag = 15" standing ; 14 1/2" sitting This sag setting looks to be very close to specs to me. This is somewhat surprising since I weigh about 240lbs. The bike is new so I haven't had the opportunity to test the suspension thoroughly but it does seem to ride extremely well on highway, rougher roads, and in fields and around the acreage. So, how can I tell if the spring(s) have been changed from stock?
  4. New to TT this may already be an article but....I’m looking at my buying options for a DRZ 400s (used or new). If I buy new do I need to do the break in period completely stock or can i uncork it right away and still be able to properly break the motor in? That is 3x3 mod, jd jet kit, and full exhaust. thankyou!!
  5. Hello Riders, I’ve a 2006 DRZ 400s, recently got a new top end, carb done, new stator coil and battery. The bike runs smooth in city, but I took it to Big Bear (CA) trails and on inclines and altitude the bike started stalling. Once stalled it wouldn’t start easy, after a few kicks in could get it running but it would kinda start dying which made me rev it more. I increased the idling and the fuel mix to make it rich but problem wasn’t fixed. Surprisingly when I can to staging area at sea level the bike was perfect, button start and responsive. Fellow riders were of the opinion it’s the float valve but it’s all conjectures. Any ideas if you’ve faced similar situation? And what could be the root cause? Thanks and stay safe! Sekhon
  6. Hi Ladies and gents. I sold my KTM 200 XCW a month ago and has been desperately looking for a neat Suzuki DRZ 400 super motard. I finally found one but it was 1350km away all the way in Vereeniging (on the other side of South Africa from Cape Town where I live). After thinking long and hard if I should take the chance, I decided to put some faith in humanity and do the EFT. I really wanted to get back on road and I couldn't think of anything more fun than an off road bike with 17inch sticky tyres as mountain passes was the type of riding that in the past really gave me buterflies and kept depression at bay. 10 years ago I was all about 300km/h superbikes, but having a bike that is not so intimidating makes riding much more fun, also keeps my butt out of jail. I organised Rothwinds Couriers, whose service was top notch! Best price and lowest turn around time as well. Landing two days earlier than what was promised! The bike was securely fastened on a very neat trailer and the guys that delivered it gave such a proffesional service. Great sense of humor as well. The day it was picked up. The Rothwind guys was sitting outside the sellers house at 5AM waiting for him to wake up
  7. Hi everyone, first post here, need your knowledge on an issue I have. I bought a second-hand 2008 DRZ400 SM with Keihin FCR mod installed on recently and everything was ok, until yesterday I had this issue while riding. I had fuel on and my petcock set to "ON" position, my engine failed. After waiting a bit, thinking what to do, I tried to start the bike again and it started for a few more meters. When I turned the petcock to the "PRIME" position, the bike was rolling all good. But now I am completely confused about what is going on. The petcock has 3 positions, the "ON", the "PRIME" and the "RES". For some strange reason, I cannot turn the petcock to the "RES" position at all. Then, when I use the "ON" position, after a few meters the engine will die, either when I downshift and rev-match, or while giving gas, with a lot of popping noise coming from the exhaust. On the "PRIME" position the engine runs just fine, but the manual suggests that it shouldn't be left to "PRIME" for long periods? I suppose the previous owner did some misconfiguration? Any info would be helpful.
  8. So after grenading my gearbox, I’m busy rebuilding the bottom end and was contemplating whether to replace the main crank bearings. Motor only has 7000 miles on it. Is it false economy to not replace the bearings? Both run smoothly with no perceptible play. Out of interest, it seems like the cause of the gearbox failure was a shift fork seizing on fifth gear. Fork was badly worn radially and showed significant blueing.
  9. Hi! I know this issue has been beaten to death but after reading through a lot of material, I'm even more confused. I have a 2007 DRZ 400 sm with everything but the muffler stock for now. I have just ordered the JD jet kid and plan to do the 3x3 at the same time as I rejet. Currently on the bike I have a Scorpion muffler that the previous owner put on it. The quiet insert is broken (previous owner) so I've been running without it since the beginning. I'd like to get a quality full exhaust to take advantage of the rejet and airbox opening. I don't really plan on going any further than that as far as modifications go, at least it will be a few years before I get a FCR, cams or a big bore (might upgrade to a 690 or a 701 before it comes to that anyways). I have read excellent reviews everywhere for the MRD/SSW but I also saw that it's pretty obnoxiously loud. I ride in busy small streets 95% of the time and I'd rather not ride with earplugs all the time. Considering I already have an open exhaust (see the pic), how much louder would the MRD be? I don't really care about max performance, I just want the bike to run as good as I can. I'm quite used to a loud exhaust but I don't want something a lot louder than that. I'm pretty sure the Yoshi RS2 with the quiet insert would be quieter than the completely open Scorpion. Right ? I mean it still has the stock header on so that might not be true… Price wise the MRD is cheaper and the shorty version would be the best in terms of aesthetics (but also the loudest right?). I like the carbon fiber muffler of the Yoshi and the heat shield but that big ass red kanji sticker bothers me. Anyway, what would you guys do if my priorities were 1) Bike running perfectly 2) Not "all the neighbors want to kill me" loud 3) Neat looking 4) Good bang for the buck. Thanks!
  10. The coast enricher effective richens the fuel mixture on deceleration but cutting air and that prevents backfiring. A perfectly working coast enricher is a good thing and has no performance down sides. However over time the coast enricher parts wear, hoses leak and low speed jetting goes to hell. A properly tuned pilot circuit does not need a coast enricher, factory leaness was the reason for it. Many bikes of later years or other brands did not come with the enricher nor do most of the aftermarket supplied FCR's... Removal of the coast enricher is simple .. Remove the nut and two hoses in red circles Connect the two remaining nipples with the proper sized hose and clamp them down with zip ties or clamps Plug the no linger vacuum port on the cylinder head with a cap And your done ..If you have significant back firing at deceleration now, most likely your pilot circuit needs adjustment. a year or so down the road, if you think you have a vac leak...check that rubber cap you put on the cylinder head port..the rubber caps commonly found at auto parts places do not last very long in the heat and operating environment. If you can source silicone vacuum caps, even better.
  11. I recently bought a DRZ 400, and suddenly it started making a metallic clinking noise that I hear when letting the Throttle go to its original position. I do not know from where this is coming. The fist I did today was open the top head and check the valves clearances and all are cero (0). This concerns me a lot since I do not know almost anything of motorcycle mechanics. I know that I have to change the shims for ones that are thinner. What could be causing this problem? Can it cause any damage to the motor? Also another concerning thing that I found is that the valves are looking against each other instead of away each other like supposed for an S model. (With the motor aligned correctly) The previous owner told me that this bike even if it was “marked” as an S it look and uses parts like an E model. Could this have something to do? (Don’t this so but just asking) I would definitely appreciate any help, any idea of what this may cause or be caused by. Also, could this valves be badly mounted previously?
  12. Hey guys! I am currently looking to buy my first DRZ400s. Been wanting a motorbike for a long time and finally saved up enough money and of an age where my insurance isn’t crazy high here in Ontario. I recently came across a decent deal for how crazy the resale market is, however the Motobike does have some concerning issues. The DRZ is a 2017 with just over 3000 KM. The owner is looking for $5200 CAD. Firstly, the owner says he has started it every few weeks but the last time he tried a week ago, it appears that the battery has died. He said he will try to boost it and update me in a few days. I am sort of concerned about this as I am unable to find info on how to distinguish between a battery issue or a motorbike issue. I don’t mind buying a new battery, but if it’s a bike issue I end up have a battery I have no use for. Do you have any advice for this issue. I have posted a pic of the motorbike. Otherwise the owner says it has no issues aside from the battery and missing mirror. Thank you in advance!!
  13. I've got a DRZ400E that's street legal and I've been trying to get a drz400s subframe so I can load the back with gear for some longer trips. Does anyone have one they'd be willing to sell or know where to get one? I don't see any on eBay for a reasonable price. Thanks in advance!
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