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Showing results for tags 'Drz'.
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Hey y’all, (Drz400sm) It appears this line is loose ? I noticed the liquid on my tire after a ride and looking over my bike, Glad I saw it. The line looks mad loose and the hose was even a little off. You can see I slipped it back on. Also the metal piece feels stripped. That also can move a little up and down, Not just left to right. FYI the hose goes into the speedometer. Any info/advise will be appreciated. Like a proper link and/or explaining what’s going on with this situation
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I have just bought a 2011 Drz400, the previous owner had all the bolts break holding the Stator onto the flywheel and 3 bolts fell behind the flywheel. I’ve ordered a 38mm flywheel puller to remove the flywheel and it does not fit. I’m just curious if anyone else has had this problem.
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Hello all. My name is Trent and I have lurked around this site like a perv for a while. Finally gotten motivated to refresh a DRZ that I purchased last year and figured I would document the progress here. Plus I love the community input and interaction of like minded people. So far... when I got the bike it was far from pretty. Actually not much has changed. When I got it was not running. No battery a bit of a butchered harness and most likely fouled has. Dealing with the foul gas issue was obviously first. Pulled the carb to rebuild and it it was really bad inside. I had already been on tapatalk and seen the way to go was fcr. I waited till I found a good deal and sprung off ebay. A slant that came off an sm. Came with the bell adapter, e cables, a bunch of needles and jets and supposedly has a fresh rebuild. Well getting the carb in was a nightmare. You have to detach the subframe. Finally buggered it in place and got the bike to fire. While I was waiting on the carb search i did repair quite a bit of wiring and replaced the battery with a cheap from autotune. Plans to upgrade to a smaller lithium if I can get the bike running correctly. I of course changed the fluids, and regressed some of the important bearings without replacing for now. Once the FCR was in the bike runs. Not great but is rideable. More to come.
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Hey all, I've picked up a 2006 DRZ400E with the 6 spoke CBR250 rims and I'm wanting to beef up the front brakes. It already has the adaptor plate for the stock rotor but I'm just wanting something better and I can't find much. Pic for reference, can grab a better one in the morning if needed
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Broke my speedometer. Looking into new ones. I’ve seen a bunch of talk about the trail tech specifically the vapor. Has any one heard of the sambo? Or anything other than the vapor? Or is that pretty much the best choice? I do like the sambo has gear indicators on it. Since you can’t keep the piece on the side of the oem one that has the N indicator. I thought that would be nice and that’s something the vapor seems to be lacking. But has anyone actually gotten that to work on the drz? I noticed a post a few years ago and I know much doesn’t change on the drz but hopefully something new came out since then. Thanks
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I'm sure this has been answered before but I couldn't find an answer. Im a bit of a newbie and just bought a 2013 drz400sm. Someone locally is selling Warp 9's(18/21) that were off an E. While searching the forums I found that warp 9's quality wasn't the best but have made some improvement over the years. I also read someone said there spacers didn't fit going taking them off an E to SM. Ever heard of this? I know that to make it work I'd need: -sm rotors -swap brake pads/calipers everytime -anything else? -
I just got a JD jetting kit for my fcr39mx. Supposedly these are supposed to be genuine keihin jets but some of them have the K start and others don't...For example, the 155 main jet is labeled AB155 no K star mark anywhere the pilot jet has a 42 printed on it but no K star, the 160 and the 170 mains do have a K star. Are they all genuine Keihin jets or have I been given some fugazi fazool jets???
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Hey all, I've got an 05 SM. Unfortunately he just failed inspection for a dim light and high emissions. I've been looking for a wiring diagram to help me out, but the only one I could find on here (and google) is for 2001-2004. Are they the same? If so, can someone point me to a high quality version? Something I can print extra large without blur? Also, any ideas on what caused the light to be dim? I just put in a brand new 60/60 bulb right before the inspection. I didn't notice a difference myself beforehand either. He has a few mods on him, but I haven't been able to find them all. It is a JDM spec bike, if that matters. The inspection machine is showing my bike puts out at 41??? as opposed to the 150??? requirement. Not sure what the ??? is, I'll have to ask my girlfriend since the inspection paperwork is in Japanese. Thanks in advance for any help you guys can offer! -Pomeroki
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Does anybody know about drz 125 L graphic kits? So far I’ve only found ones for the normal drz 125, and I’m guessing that those wouldn’t fit the 125 L.
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Hey long time reader first post here. I have a 2001 drz with around 11,000 miles on it bought it around a year ago. Has run absolutely perfect until I laid it down trail riding, was a slow speed “gentle” drop after entering some deep sand. I shut it down then stood the bike back up. After restarting it would die immediately giving it any throttle. Was able to limp it a little on half choke but decided to have a buddy pick me up and came back later with my truck and haul it out of the woods. Obviously seems like a fuel/ air carb problem. Is it possible the float got stuck being on its side? Should I just go ahead clean/ rebuild the carb? Am I missing something simple before I go through with that? Just seemed really bizarre that dropping a bike would cause such issues.
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Anyone had issues with plastic filings in the oil strainer/filter? Since I've had the bike ive done 2 oil changes, (18500 & 21000kms) and both times there has been some non magnetic filings which seam to be a hard plastic looking online I've heard suggestions of it being either part of the oil pump gear, cam chain guide, something from the stator or even part of a clutch plate, Anyone else had this happen before and what did it end up being? Was thinking of taking off the case ends and having a look / doing the Loctite fixers just want to know if I should be looking at anything else whilst I'm in there
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I think this is in the right place. I have a klx 300 manual cam chain tensioner. I was curious if it would work on my 2000 drz400e
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Hi, I want to buy a used drz and I might of found the one. Only thing is the owner did the first oil change on the bike at 600 miles and it now has 1200 mile. I know drz’s are reliable pretty low maintenance bikes but I wonder if waiting that long before the first oil change could make a difference in long term engine reliability.
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As the title suggests, my bike is running rough at high rpm (that is, anything above 4k or so), with constant throttle. Oddly, it revs out smoothly under acceleration, and it can putter around comfortably at low revs. Main jet looks fine and clean? What's the best approach? What other things are there to check? Could it be fuel starvation and that my petcock is blocked? It was sitting for a few months. Could the main jet and pilot jet not be as clean as they appear by eye? Thoughts? -
Hi folks. This is not the first post about this issue. I found some here and on YouTube, and comparing the sound with mine it seems that my DRZ has them all. My first suspect was the timing chain. After a cleaning of the adjuster(automatic) and some adjustment the noise reduced but did not disappeared. Then, I felt that some whining came from the internal gearing when coasting, and when the starter engaged. Yesterday I started the engine, from cold and after some days resting since a wash. It took some effort and seemed that the starter was not free. Finally it started with the kick (mine has kick and electric). So, I decided to get the hands dirty and began from the left side to investigate if the starter clutch or the starter motor can be the culprit. I had some difficulty to measure the slip torque of the limiter as I do not have special tools, so I fabricated a simple tool and with the vice help, to check. It slips. Anyway, even if it is not on the specified slip torque, probably, it wouldn't influence because the starter clutch is running free as it is supposed. The starter motor runs free, effortlessly and without noises. It seems that this chapter is ok. Then I checked the stator and the rotor. All the bolts are well tight. Probably the previous owner did well and loctite them. So I cleaned everything and assembled the left side. Later, reviewing the parts diagram and the photos, I noticed that two washers are missing. One on the outside of the torque limiter, in its axis, and other on the axis of the intermediate gear, allowing some axial play against the case. Probably the previous owner (or it's mechanic) did not do well here. Visually there is no damage on the case nor any other part, but ... Someone had experience with these items? Can a faulty limiter cause whining noises ? Tomorrow I will open again and try instal washers. Then will go to the right side. Thanks for your thoughts. -
Hi, I have recently replaced the fuel valve on my fuel tank since the previous one was leaking then when I started the bike up noticed this wierd sound never heard it before. At first I thought the oil was low so I drained the oil from the outlet in the frame and refilled it with 15w50 oil took about 1.5L to correct level didn't notice any metal fragments of any kind. Radiator fluid is good. It is a 2006 model with about 23000km on it. No big bore but does have a wossner piston. No 3x3 airbox mod. The engine was rebuilt at 10000km. Here is a video of the bike in idle: Video https://youtu.be/kN5jaEEOYMs
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Okay, so I'm going to explain as best as I can to avoid any confusion or repeat of past attempts. So the other night I decided to take the seat off to check the air filter a little better (its a little hard to see all of it from just the side panel) so I did so and moved some wires a bit to get a better look. I did all that happy stuff put everything back, honestly hardly moved the wires just enough to get a look at the filter. Re assembled and went on with my day. Fast forward to the next day, beautiful 65 degrees and I'm all geared up, I sit on my bike, flip the key. Fan and lights come on (this is normal I have my fan always on) and hit the start button and...bubkis. not a click, clack, crank or sound aside from the slight fan RPM loss and dimming of the headlights. So I thought well maybe I'm in neutral or the clutch wasn't pulled in or maybe the kickstand button got jammed. Checked over all of that, checked the kill switch button for a rookie move and still nothing. I tried moving the bike forwards a tad. Tapping the stator shifting through gears, still nothing. So naturally I checked the relay after some research, I took it off. Hooked it to a 12v battery, heard its click, tested the Ohms everything was fine. I put it back on the bike, tested the starter wire with a multimeter by using the ground lead the batteries negative and the red on the starter wire, got 12.2V thought okay that's fine. Then I tested the ground wire, 0V when I'm not trying to start it which was normal, but only got 5V max when trying to start. So I thought maybe it had to be the relay! Case closed....right? So to test my theory i went to my buddies(at this point I could start the bike by using a screwdriver to complete the circuit on the relay, ghetto start lol) and took his relay off and switched it with mine. Still nothing. No crank, click, clack or snap. So I went back home, took the starter button apart and ran a continuity test to make sure it wasn't shorting out. It wasn't. Test came back fine. Battery is brand new and the voltage on it is perfect. The bike will start right up if I bypass the relay. So what I did was bypass the kickstand switch and the clutch killswitch and still nothing checked those for volts and continuity. Both came back fine. At this point I have no clue what's going on or why it wont start. Sorry for the lengthy post but I felt like it's better to explain all now than waste response time later. Thank you in advance and I really could use your guys help!
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Ok so I'm about to sell my Klx 125 and my clutch seems to lately have not been engaging like it should. its as if its pushing on the pressure plate but not far enough to let the clutch plates spin freely. I can put the bike in Neutral and it acts just fine but when I put it in gear and hold the clutch in, there is a lot of resistance when I try to move the bike back and forth. (the wheels aren't completely locked as if it were in gear but its very hard to move) I have had to adjust the pushrod one other time because it was doing the same thing. I've used all the adjustment in the clutch cable and it hasn't seemed to make a difference. I have also tried to rotate the pushrod lever to take more slack out of the cable. Before I open up the crankcase and take the pressure plate off and adjust it internally I'd like to know if anyone has any ideas as to how to fix it otherwise I'll just open it up and adjust the amount the pushrod sticks out. Any help would be great Thanks
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Bought myself a JD jet kit, I have the fcr 39 MX carb, full yoshi RS2 pipe and air box mod (with the side also cut out ( previous owner did it ) can anyone reccomend jet sizes for me? I'll be using the low altitude / cold temperature needle as I'm in the UK Thanks in advance!
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Hello everyone, This is my first post here so I apologize if I'm posting in the wrong thread or something like that. Anyways, a few days ago(Friday the 13th) I decided to take my 2001 Drz400E out for a spin in the woods outside my neighborhood. Long story short, I drowned the thing. Three hours and a lot of cussing later and I got the thing out of the mud and back home. Moral of the story? Stick to the trails. When I got the thing back home I discovered two problems: 1.) The bike was leaking coolant, No clue where from. 2.) The bike wouldn't rev over 4.5k rpm. If I give it more gas, it stalls. I did some research on the rev thing and apparently cleaning the carb/jet fixes this(If anyone can confirm this it'd be helpful). I removed the carb, cleaned it, and everything looks fine. I haven't tested it, however, because of the coolant leak. I figured running the bike with next to no coolant probably isn't a good idea. I also don't feel like putting everything back on the bike just to end up tearing it apart to fix the other stuff. I heard from a friend that water could have caused a gasket to leak, but I'm not exactly eager to tear apart my engine to find out. If you guys could give me any advice, it'd be a big help(Especially since I've got a road trip planned for memorial day).
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Hey all, quick and easy question I hope. I picked up an 06 drz-400E with an fcr and fmf exhaust. I believe I need to up my main jet size. I don't know much about carbs but managed to get it off and the attached picture is what I found. So with the top being my main jet I went online to buy a replacement. Everything I see when looking for fcr jets I come across ones that look different having a longer hex head rather than having the short style like I have with a slotted head. Is there a chance that mine just has some adapter to where I should be able to separate the two hex pieces in my picture and then buy a longer one like what I have attached in the website screenshot? If I'm missing something can somebody help explain or send me a link to what I actually need (165 main)? Thanks a bunch
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I have a 2009 sm. It's never been laid over or anything. I noticed that the subframe was broken. Will the subframe from an E work? I have a full Yosh exhaust. I dont need the passenger pegs and I dont carry any luggage. The main thing I am worried about is the tail light. Will I be able to run the same tail light?
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Hello, this probably has been asked. I want to put dirt wheels on my 250sf. Trying to find what fits without a pile of parts. Thank you for your help.
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Will a 2019 DRZ400sm sub frame fit a 2013
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Bought this bike used a few months ago and it was dark out so i didnt notice this crack in the rear hub. Its on the sprocket side. Ive been riding on it for for months like this and the crack hasnt widened or spread at all. Not sure what to do. Wheels are VERY expensive for this bike. See attached pics. replacing the wheel would involve me setting the offset and Truing and everything which would be my first time doing so, So im a bit nervous. if i do replace would this wheel work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Warp-9-Racing-Wheel-Assembly-Rear-SM-4-25-x-17-/203082994931?_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:AQAFAAACQBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkZ%2F%2B%2BjiCUbgvzhyyof3jXZImghya5nEYeCSGpRoKGyxggFptQigOK5bcC1c35q4g3KfSUpDLtwQKVYGJxLvVF39eqxlTdsXsLmCsv4rlqXYS585Xjj4qcxqZB1YXkaznMzILBMu%2Btm0lXxIEYOVPs0CwcTVCsMQztXqIpW%2FHfrsIHq8hEdVJnojX35mqP91Ws2%2BCiyZNPnZjKH9JT0rVV%2FdrPhUWM0wS%2Fwsf0967CuaZHSaIJUr11wA1FUusReOUJsMiXCo0MHdZ8iBfllfyfR%2BIaJue0pVrThwV2wCytEWJyNB7FEsQsyXQB7BnvMD8L7JRVCZSJX4qYizd6f3XSYhNA5WtyZVM7TLg9poSzIa3%2FpAmnntzMxkvvGXIR%2FQFodUVv6b8ixkIZ1JSAKsS7t0u0ULF9a6vyZpjiXA%2B1a%2FM8I8vcNmDlqFS5wNC28tXE6evRJuBVAStcjcRnyXFD5y9K7OdL6eO47ygED%2BLCuy64KNLP1H9ZJwlCtqoMZKAWrIisy7DVUtHjzC5WiyO52cqySioDOXixpa82dYQeZ0YnqYGaQu393N0Wk%2BLlCe%2Fs%2B77GIJ%2Bi3d4W2fXIJOhFyGMB0w8yZ5gCt4y3yK%2BH8JTKo2bzvqR8dGhC%2FkjSXnvb1rIvoBqNItfVpNu3ED0JPsqILgEMpXJf9sPjDWERX63JO%2B5VpxQkLEA6JL7E%2BuTwSZPVWh2IW1sNN5wAOGIjAw%3D%3D%7Ccksum:20308299493170f419abae4f4cec81a863c682a9c3f4%7Campid:PL_CLK%7Cclp:3268220&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=203082994931&targetid=1192081307704&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=21143&campaignid=11774733487&mkgroupid=113829509425&rlsatarget=pla-1192081307704&abcId=9300474&merchantid=118949009&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6Pibua2u7wIVUr7ACh0QCgxKEAQYCSABEgIdUfD_BwE&pageci=64794503-fa44-4bce-8f8e-239a0d1d78fe
