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Showing results for tags 'ElectricalComponents'.
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best handling bike -
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Love this bike, I wish it was lighter tho. Need to tweak the forks a bit, they're stuff as shit. I recommend getting the gytr compitition kit and a tuner. -
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Great after Vortex. Just do it. -
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It's a dirt-capable superbike. Budget for speeding tickets/bail money. -
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Street legal in AZ, this 450SXF. Started with trail ready, kept going to full street legal. Easy to get plated in AZ. Pain in the ass and expensive to do all this on MX bike, but mad fun to have the 450SXF on the trails, open desert and bush. TBT suspension Rekluse Auto Core EXP Fastaway System3 Overbar Steering Stabilizer Fasst Flexx bars Baja Designs Squadron Pro LED Headlight Rear LED tail kit from EXC with (exc rear fender swap) 70 watt upgraded stator Promoto Billet black kickstand Trailtech Striker digi gauge Seat Concepts low seat Moose Racing front fender dual sport pack Moose Racing rear render velcro cylinder pack Doubltake fold down mirror ProMotoB Billet rear rack - black Fastway linkage protection TrailTech radiator fan kit Bulletproof radiator guards Bulletproof chain guide/swingarm guards Ricochet skidplate FMF muffler Black Excel rims Cycra handguards Orange Anodized unbreakable levers OdiLock grips DirtTricks sprockets and Did gold series chain Warp 9 adjustable rear brake pedal with flexx Warp 9 gear selector with flexx Fastway Adventure footpegs Tm designworks chain guide Padiator - rear brake radiator -
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Absolutely love this bike. One of my favorite bikes I've owned. -
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5 reviews
DESCRIPTION The VORTEX X10 CDI the smallest and most Powerful Programmable CDI available. The X10 CDI allows the user to select up to 10 different power modes as easily as adjusting clickers on your suspension. With the advent of X10 technology the this unit can be programmed with up to 10 High Resolution 3D Maps. This give the user the option to select from a range of power settings and customise the engines power delivery to suit a variety of rider styles, different track conditions, fuel octane levels or engine configurations. In addition the rider can change power modes dynamically via a Handlebar Switch. From Mild to Wild the possibilities are endless with the X10 CDI Key Features Pre Programmed with 10 selectable Power settings via X10 Switch Instant Plug in Performance (replaces standard CDI with no mods to wiring required Handlebar Switch for Dynamic Map Selection Rubber Mounting Boot + Brackets supplied (where required) V-Boost - Internal Voltage Boost Circuit for maximising Spark Energy across the entire rev range Power Jet Control - Multiple On / Off (where applicable) Rev Limiter (where required) Small form factor for ease of mounting Re-Programmable Race Proven Reliability All Vortex CDIs are factory programmed with Performance Maps developed through dyno and track testing exclusively with our network of technical support centres and top race teams worldwide. NOTE: The X10 CDI comes with a Handlebar Switch included. -
2 reviews
A generic 4" pull fan for radiator coooling. requires fan switch and harness. Spal manufactures many of the OEM fans for bike vendors, mostly Europeans. made in Italy -
2 reviews
Provides 90 watts DC power at idle when installed with a Trail Tech high strength flywheel Provides 30 watts when installed with a Trail Tech low-strength or stock flywheel Model-specific connectors for CRF250X Regulator/rectifier sold separately. -
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A loud 112db, 500Hz lightweight and easy to install horn Works with all bikes, especially space limited applications -
2 reviews
Designed to enhance overall performance Duplication circuits Increased RPM Redline Altered ignition advance curves -
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This street-legal 2004 XR400 is a bullet-proof, trail-riding tractor, with no radiator to bash in, valves that never need regapping, and after adding a Mikuni pumper carb, the perfect trail-bike that can be brapped over logs and rocks, and ridden in whatever gear happens to be handy. And just because I love it so much, I change the oil about once a year. Starts on first kick after pumping the starter to TDC and if I can remember not to touch the throttle at all (pumper carb easily floods engine otherwise). -
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Best bike I owned so far. Even tried to kill me twice. -
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Overall I love this bike! Once the EFI is dialed in there is no comparison with a carburetor. -
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Purchased in May 2014 Maryland Class MC Motorcycle Title Previous Owner bought it off eBay and had it shipped from Oklahoma. Passed rigorous MD State Inspection 100% in May 2014. -
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Licensed in CO, sand dunes in Glamis, and rides in Utah and now Va! -
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My stator died, so I ordered a new one and installed it last night. Everyone says go with Ricky stator, but I couldn't see paying $250 for a drz stator. So I found one on ebay that sounded alright and was only $104 shipped. But really, what are the differences? Have many people been burned by faulty aftermarket stators? This is the one I bought: http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1497.l2649
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I tried to ask this question in a diff thread, but things got lost in translation, so sorry for repeating myself... So I have a Hot Rod crank, and seems they are build goofy, as in crank tilted against the flywheel meaning the woodruff key grove is about 5 degree rotated. For me that means that the OEM settings of 0.18 mm (0.007 in) is very close to maximum, as in what I can turn the stator to the left (se picture). I can actually turn it a bit more to the left, that measurement (se other picture) is about 0.25 mm (0.1 in) That means I I can make it a bit more advanced, but in contrast, I have way more possibilities to make it super retarded. I did not measure how far I can go... My issue. It back fires when I kick start it. Push in the kill button, and it's normal two stroke compression (no high comp stuff). But as I try to fire it up, it kicks back and kills my foot and has broken two kick axles. I can kick it a tiny bit when it's cold, but I need to just use the last bit of kick travel, like one RPM and it sometimes to fire it up. When it is worm, seems to kick back worse. It runs great, but tons of torque, but a bit to jumpy on low RPM and flattens out a bit early. So how does this relate to ignition? I figure my ignition comes very early, like piston has barely left TDC when the explosion comes, it so close to the TDC it sometimes fires back, hence my foot and kick axle gets tortured. What I would like I think is to make it fire later on, so there's no risk of it turning backwards and kicking back? I figure this means I would like to make it more advanced? Retarded means close to TDC? The bang happens after TDC, but the ignition happens before TDC, but it takes time to make the bang, hence it comes when the piston is going down. So if my theory is correct, I need to go more advanced (?) meaning I want to turn the stator more than the holes allows me, can I open this space up a bit more? Figure I want to go another degree or so. I turned the stator all the way to the opposite direction, meaning way retarded (?), newer go full retard (LOL), but same issue... What is missing? I'm doing something wrong? -
I have fouled my 2nd stator on my 05 525sx. I heard the stock stators are weak. Does anyone know a great aftermarket stator or someone around southern ca who can rewire mine?
