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I am getting close to my first oil change and searched for recommendations but no luck. I am thinking of going with a Honda filter and Mobil1 10w40 synthetic motorcycle oil. Im open to recommendations and Amsoil is hard to find around my neck of the woods. Thanks

Hello all ! I've just bought a yr 2000 drz400e, really pleased with it. What oil do you recommend for a low mileage model (<1000 miles)? Mineral or semi synthetic? Thanks in advance...

Ok so for Christmas I'm buying the whole family dirt bikes... When I get them I'm going to change the oil in all bikes. Can anyone recommend a good dirt bike oil? Can I get a reliable oil at Walmart? It will be one yamaha 250 one yamaha 125 and a Chinese automatic 50cc for the 6 year old if make an cc makes any difference. Thanks!

Hey guys, Did an oil change on the DRZ400 with the white jug of Rotella 15w40 I had sitting in the garage, since everyone seems to always default to it. I also have Rotella T6 5w40 that i used to run in my Ninja before I sold it, but I opted for the heavier weight this time. I've looked around, but only semi-definitive topic i've found is here: /topic/978633-anybody-run-rotella-t-15w40/ This is the stuff I've put in, for visual reference: I haven't really noticed any issues after 400 miles, except that after riding for a while, the top end clatter gets a lot louder on my machine. I've set the MCCT properly (press in until pushing on the tensioner, start bike, back out until bag of hammers, push back in until it stops, then half turn). So- have I been shaving life off of the engine? Should I dump and move to another oil, or leave as-is?

Wow, I just got this 2002 xr250 and have been commuting to work about 90mi round trip. I have the valves adjusted properly, and keep it below 55 most of the time. I ride dirt roads and secondary roads the whole way. After an oil change yesterday, I doubled checked my oil level on the dipstick after today's commute and ...... it didn't register on the dipstick at all? I read some other posts but the bike does not smoke and I'm not beating on the valves. Is this type of oil consumption normal? Can I reduce the oil disappearance?

Alright so quit measuring your dicks and sit down, this ones a long one... I only learned this stuff recently so I thought it would be good to expose. The modern day oil and gas industry is riddled with low quality manufacturers, corporate lies, consumer misconception, and old time rhetoric. Sharks in the industry understand that it is better to pour money into marketing their terribly inferior product than research and development. This marketing is at the expense of the consumer. These slimy suits bank on a lack of consumer knowledge, they understand that a vast majority of the public is more concerned with cost and will never be truly informed regarding this matter. This topic applies across the auto spectrum as well (how I learned) but let's stick to bikes. I'm starting this thread to help wade through the cloud of misinformation and hopefully learn more about this highly complex matter. A more informed consumer will only help improve this Wild West of a marketplace for everybody. My goal is to learn some factual information at the same time squash the marketing bs helping others get the most out of their rig. Eventually, this thread is bound to start a pissing contest of opinionated answers between brands. I'm looking to dissect different brands whether it's 2 or 4 stroke oil doesn't matter. I want to better understand what exactly their specific traits and formulas mean, and how they compare. So guys please, let's keep it factual. No one cares about your "opinion". Manufacturers recommend particular oils because those oils are specifically designed to meet the criteria of modern, high strung, close tolerance, engines. I personally choose to bite the bullet and buy exactly what the manufacturer recommends given the insane amount of variables that make up modern oils. Can brands other than what the manufacturer recommends perform as well or better? Yes some do, but most of them do not. I think it is very important to compare data sheets to what the manufacturer recommends to obtain an oil with the same rating specifications and characteristics. Otherwise you might as well throw a dart at the wall or go by "smell". The basics: First, to understand oils I think it's very important for everyone to first know the types of ratings organizations and how their standards differ. Every bottle of oil will have a rating from at least 1 if not all of the recognized "independent" organizations. Look at the back. These organizations all have different standards to meet their certifications. There are many misconceptions regarding these certifications and what is a true synthetic oil. The easiest way to tell is through a rating system (API, JASO, ISO ACEA etc.) The API has become the laughing stock of the industry, the ISO has become widely regarded as the BEST standard, while the JASO remains somewhere in the middle relatively unchanged since the 90s. The API is a corrupt organization mainly focused on promoting and marketing their client based products rather than establishing a credible rating system over the years. It is known that the API sided with Castrol in a lawsuit regarding changing the base stock of their synthetic POA formula to a lower group 3 class while still claiming it was "fully synthetic". This move completely changed the modern quality of oils. The API quietly lowered the required blend of synthetic to 1% (not a joke) for an oil to qualify as "fully synthetic" under their current system. They swept it under the rug real quick like. This means that even if a bottle says "fully synthetic" right on the front it is often times a group 3 oil, nothing close to a POA synthetic stock. The general public needs to know that API designations should be dismissed completely. Many low quality manufacturers skip the more costly and stringent JASO and ISO certifications to intentionally mislead their customers into believing they have a good oil. Castrol, Maxima, and many others do this. (Golden Spectro I'm looking at you). Tisk tisk. The main thing I want people to take from all this: *****Any API rated oil without an ISO and JASO certification should be dismissed***** Now Im not trying to get too hairy here but I want to take this further. Here's a 2 nerdy topics that I'm having a hard time understanding, maybe someone can simplify. I have heard there has been a big push away from phosphorous and zinc as a wear inhibitor replaced by moly. Why is this? Isnt the reduction of phosphorous bad for flat tappet motor cams and rockers? Are there particular brands that contain more phosphorous than most? Would too high of phosphorous in the blend be too corrosive? Are there trade offs involved with higher concentrations of Zinc and phosphorous? Why the big push away? Are oils with the highest concentration of these additives considered the best? Too much moly causes clutch slippage correct? Like that stuff is too slick to even lube properly. Now regarding pre mix. I'm also particularly interested in motorex vs bel Ray 2 stroke oil. Ktm and Husqvarna both have essentially the same motor with a different airbox. The 2 oils are very similar but comparing the flash point bel Ray is much higher than motorex. Why is this? What exactly are the trade offs associated with low/ high flash point temps? I would assume motors that run harder/hotter need a higher flash point temp for proper lubrication at the cost of carbonization. I am under the impression that high flash temps run "dirty". I have a basic understanding of what I'm looking at but I would like to know more about data sheets than making simple number comparisons. http://www.motorexusa.com/msds/171-204_US_CROSS_POWER_2T.pdf https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.belray.com%2Fsites%2Fdefault%2Ffiles%2Fmsds_files%2Fbel-ray%2520h1-r%2520racing%2520100%2525%2520synthetic%2520ester%25202t%2520engine%2520oil%2520item%252099280%2520us_english.pdf Here are some good reads to get you going: http://www.sportrider.com/oils-well-ends-well-part-1 http://www.sportrider.com/oils-well-ends-well-part-2 http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/

Which is the best kind of engine oil for a 2 stroke dirt bike? Synthetic or not? Brand? I have a 06 yz 125 and a 2011 yz 250. Also, manual says 10w30 for the 125, would it be ok to use 10w40 on it?

I have tried to find info on this oil by doing a search but I can not find anything. I did find info on motul 3000. Is motul 7100 10w40 ester okay to run in my crf 250 l? I hope so as I just put some in.

Looking for a good oil alternative for a 2014 450sxf . Shits gettin expensive looking for sumthin cheap but good quality. What are you guys using?

Has anyone tried Castrol 4T synthetic motorcycle oil in their KTM? It looks good on paper and I'm attracted by the price, but the price is so much lower than the competition that it has me wondering why. Amazon has it for $7.75/qt including shipping on prime (TT removed my link to Amazon). Specs (JASO T093 MA-2): http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9045375&contentId=7079435 The only real difference on paper that I can find is the Motorex is JASO T903 MA rated, and the Castrol is JASO T903 MA-2 rated. It looks like the MA category was split into MA-1 and MA-2 -- MA-1 not for wet clutches, and MA-2 being safe for wet clutches. But I can't tell if there's a significant difference in performance between the old MA and the new MA-2. The 2014 KTM 500EXC manual does state "MA". Anyway, has anyone tried this oil?

Alright boys here is the question: My new 350 much to my delight has a Rekluse Core installed. I have one in my KLX and absolutely love the clutch. I had the Kawi on a steady diet of Mobil 1 10w40 for six years and never a hiccup with the clutch. I installed it new when I purchased the bike new and it has only required two adjustments the second after new friction plates were installed last summer . As of now the Clutch in the Beta is working perfect. I will tear it down this winter for inspection So is anyone running a Rekluse in a 4T and what oils have you been happy with? Let the fun begin.

First off I know this is a dry sump system. But with out the clutch cover on there should be more oil than this correct? https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B86EwtSOzbrjSzRlWWg5YVc1cXM/view?usp=sharing

Just checked the valves 10 hours ago before I did my last oil change and everything was within spec. I change my airfilter often like at least every oil change sometimes sooner depending on how it looks. Oil changes every 10 hours. Running motul 15w50 7100. You guys think I need to take the bike in for service? I'm thinking about running it again and after a day of riding it draining the oil again to see if there is more metal.

What's the best oil to run in my freshly rebuilt 08 crf250r? Weight and brand? Previously I was running 10w-40 havoline. But I just want to treat everything better this time. So whatever you guys recommend the most. Not worried about price just performance and wear & tear.

I bought my '99 XR400 this past spring from a single owner. The bike was in great shape, noting really to notable was wrong just continuing general maintenance. I struggled with checking my oil in the bike, but figured that I would get the hang of it over time. I am looking for any tips or tricks folks use to check the oil in their machine. My bike came with a Scotts damper (off the bike), and inconsistency checking the oil is the only thing keeping me from mounting this up. I follow the directions in the Clymer manual with a couple things I have learned on the internet, but maybe I have it so convoluted now that its not working. Process: Start the bike, and let it idle for maybe 5 minutes while I get my helmet and gloves on. Usually I will take a slow lap, maybe 2-3 minutes in 1st or 2nd gear. Back at the truck I stop the bike, wait about 30 seconds and check the oil with the bike level. -There is oil on the dip stick before it gets wiped off to check. So it is pumping up in to the frame. When I check the oil it is maybe an eighth to an quarter of an inch up the dipstick. When its that low I usually start the bike up again and do my little slow lap, then repeat the checking process. Its always at the same level (very low). I add a splash of oil and go on my ride. Any ideas? I am nervous to put this damper on because it removes the dipstick and mounts to that little flange so checking the oil gets a little more involved. I wouldn't mind this if I could predict if my bike would need oil or not. Thanks, Matt

Going to do an oil change tommorow. Just making sure. There is only 1 oil, correct? There are also 2 drain spots? Here's a question not related to the oil change but I opened my oil fill and I couldn't see tbat much oil, where does it all go? Back I to the frame resivore? 1993 Kawasaki kx125 2004 Yamaha yz250f

Can I use rotella t 15-40 in my 2006 trx 400 ex? Thanks in advance!

My bike (2013 Husky TXC310R) calls for 10w-50 synthetic. I bought a couple of jugs of premium Bel-Ray Works Thumper Synthetic and by mistake one of them was 20W-50. In order not to waste expensive oil, I used it the last oil change, not thinking it would make much of a difference. After taking the bike out, I noticed it was running lazy, seems a bit down on power and does not rev as quickly. I am not sure if I am just getting use to the power after 15 hours and it is a mere coincidence, or just all in my head. The bike never made impressive HP from the start, but it just seems lazy all of a sudden. My common sense tells me that such a small change in oil weight should not make a difference. Hoping I don't have some other problem or that I am already bored with the power.