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I Have a 2005 kx250f that i bought and the shop i took it too did a compression check and it got only 60 pounds when im kicking it air is coming out the crankcase breather and oil i checked the valve clearence and they were good i took the head off and did a leak test with the valves and they were good and i look at the piston looks brand new with no carbon And cylinder is mint with good crosshatching i have no idea why its doing this could it possibly be the rings and also the bike has been timed perfectly.
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- 2005kx250f
- Kx250F
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I HAVE A 04 KX250F I JUST PUT IN A NEW CYLINDER WORKS fitted PISTON AND CYLINDER I SET THE RING GAPS AND MADE SURE THEY WERE SPREAD ACCORDINGLY I ALSO DID A LEAK TEST ON THE VALVES AND THEY HAD ZERO LEAKAGE. I ALSO HAVE VALVES IN SPEC AND TIMING PERFECTLY CAMS ARENT SPUN AND FOR SOME REASON ITS ALSO GETTING BLOW BY OUT THE CRANKCASE BREATHER AND I HAVE NO IDEA IF THERE IS TOO MUCH OIL OR NOT. but ive also cleaned the carb and get spark once every three kicks i have no idea if these bikes are known for eletrical issues but it does bump start and wont keep an idle and runs funny any help where to start would be great thanks!
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Anyone know where to find aftermarket levers for a 21-22 kx250f? Having a hard time and dealer time usually takes a bit
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What year model’s subframe will work as a replacement for mine (2015 kx250f)? Please let me know or Message me if you have one for sale that will work.
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So I recently did a rebuild on my 2007 KX 250 F. It was my first rebuild so there was some stuff to sort out one problem was the jetting. At first it had no low end power but was completely fine up top. I recently bought a Dino jet kit for it and it fixed everything in the bottom end and the throttle response is very crisp. I noticed on my way going to work that cut out as if I was letting off the throttle and chopping it Dino jet kit for it and it fixed everything in the bottom end and the throttle response is very crisp. I noticed on my way going to work that cut out then cut back in as if I was letting off the throttle and chopping it. At this point I’m not sure what it could be so Please help me out
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Hello, I was wondering if anyone here has had experience with putting a full exhaust of an FI bike and if it requires a remap or not? I have a 2018 KX250F I picked up about 2 months ago and had the cases split to look at the entire thing (ended up being in fantastic shape, still did rings and seals while we were at it). I also put on a full Yoshimura RS4 exhaust system mainly for looks and also for some performance. This is my first fuel injected four stroke and I have no clue if my ecu will adapt or if I need new maps. I also plan on changing the couplers out so I can use the different maps preloaded by Kawi. I'm a complete FREAK when it comes to having my bike not only look nice but run right, so if any of you think I need it please let me know. Thank you!
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I saw in the oil glass my oil was white so I emptied the oil and ordered a water pump rebuild after taking it apart and replacing seals I let it sit over night with new oil came out today and the oil is again milky not nearing as bad but my radiator water is low and the oil is milky again. What do I do??
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Hello everybody. My 2011 kx250f refuses to stay alive and I'm desperate. Let's go by parts: - Bike won't start without choke (or very very hadly will). - With the choke pulled, starts with 3 kicks. - Choke still pulled, if I don't touch the throttle it just stays in low rpm almost dying, but just give a little tick and it ramps up the revs like crazy to around 5000-7000 rpm and keeps floating around those values. - Push the choke, dies as soon as the revs drop. - Pull choke, start, push choke, control the throttle for about 5 mins and the bike seems to be able to hold idle but occasionally dies. - After 10 minutes of runing, bike is warm and holds idle even with TPS unplugged. - This is were it gets frustating: start riding it and seems okay, right until I grab the clutch and it dies as soon as the revs go down. No matter the speed, inclination, weather, how hard I'm riding, type of gas or if the TPS is plugged or not. It just dies every single time I stop revving. - Changed valves, changed camshaft, spark plug, cleaned air filter, fuel filter, checked injector, no air leaks, all voltages are OK, tuned TPS sensor and compression is good. - The only thing I'm not so sure about is the throttle body as it's a little rusty. I tried to clean it and lubricate it as best as I can as I don't look forward to buying a new one. Please help, I really don't know what else to do. Thank you.
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I’m 16 and I bought this used 2009 kx250f which the owner stated that he hadn’t turned it on in a year and that it ran when parked. The kickstart was really hard and I couldn’t push it down without rolling the bike backwards. So I put oil in it because It had none and proceed to remove the spark plug and turns out it’s wet. I take off the exhaust and I kickstart it and water shoots out of the spark plug hole! I kick it and kick until it stops shootings water. And clean it up with some carb cleaner and my dumb self kickstarts it one more time not remembering the ignition coil is full of carb cleaner and it sparks! The motor went up in flames and luckily my dad had a fire extinguisher in his truck so not much damage was done. Anyways I clean the carb and try to start it and I kept on kicking it and kicking it while spraying starting fluid and it wouldn’t turn on. I checked compression and it barely reached 100 psi. How do I diagnose why it has low compression. Next day I kick it once with no choke and it starts! A little smoke came out but it stopped shortly after. I took it for a ride and one minute after I hear a ticking noise and I shut it off. I check my oil and it’s looking milky. Could it be that there’s still old water in the motor or that it’s leaking coolant. The coolant level didn’t drop at all. How do I diagnose this. Any help is much appreciated
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Hi guys I'm an intermediate rider and got a 2015 kx250f from a hard core mx racer. He raced almost every weekend with this bike and set it up for such. Well I like trail riding and on my first ride I noticed I only used about 2 inches of travel which isn't a lot. Im 5,8 and weigh 120, the previous owner was 6,2 and 160. I haven't been able to find out if he got a stiffer fork spring or I'm just supper light. This bike is tons of fun on the trail but it kinda pings from rock to rock and where I live we have lots of 3-6 inch rocks on the trails and I"m just trying to make this bike more enjoyable. Any help would really be appreciated.
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- Kx250F
- trailriding
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Hey guys, I have a 2007 kx250f. The bike was put up for a few months after I rode it bc it was acting up. So I go and take it to the shop they put in a new water pump, rebuild the carb, new spark plugs, put oil in it, compression tested it has compression. It’s getting fuel, air, and spark, and it still won’t fire over. I am at lost of words now? And help?
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I rebuilt my front master-cylinder (on a KX 250f). I filled it with fluid and did some bleeding. After riding a few laps, the wheel began washing out, then the brakes locked. The lever was very hard. Cracking the bleeder the first time did not push fluid out. After pulling the lever a couple times fluid did come out. I closed the bleeder and tried riding back without using the front brake but it locked again twice after letting some fluid out both times. The rotor has a bend in it and the lever is also bent slightly. I am confused because even though the lever is bent, when it is not pulled, the master-cylinder piston returns all the way back out to the snap-ring that stops it. The return port does not seem to be blocked and the line does not seem to be collapsed inside. I took the caliper of and when I pushed the pistons all the way in, it moved fluid back up into the master-cylinder (The fluid can flow both ways). The pistons in the caliper were pretty clean other than a little dirt close to the pads. I have read other posts but do not see a sure solution. The brakes feel fine before they get hot after some use and the problem happens. The parts in the caliper don't seem to be frozen up. The line doesn't seem to be collapsed. The master cylinder should be in working order too (I put it back together with parts from a kit the way it came apart). I used dot 4 fluid and have tried new pads. I have a new rotor and pads coming. Too much pressure seems to be being built up with no relief since the lever becomes hard and I am not sure why. I will try to bleed it very well when I put it back together but I cannot see what is causing this repeatedly, any help would be appreciated.
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Hello fellas, I’m buying new plastics for my kx, and I thought it could be an excellent opportunity to purchase a restyle kit, but I’m having a bit of trouble finding one looks like any brand make for Kx250f 07, Did someone know if there’s one that I couldn’t see or if some other will fit Thanks
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Right now I’m riding a kx100 and I am touching flat footed on both sides I’m 13 5’5 and like 100 pounds so probably 120 with gear on plus add another inch from the boots and I can always cut down the seat my inseam is like 31 inches. I was thinking of getting a crf250f at first but realized it’s too much and thought of a cr125 cause they are one of the smallest 125’s
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Hi guys! I've got a bit of head scratcher here (at least for me - I'm no mechanic) Here's the deal: I am helping a friend trying to get a 2007 KX250f running. He bought the bike used and we have no history on it. He got it with a broken kickstart lever and we were hopeful that was the only problem. Now that the kickstart is fixed, this thing will only run with the hot start lever pulled in and it dies as soon as it's given the smallest amount of throttle. And yes I have read all the related forums I could find ? Here's what's been done and what I am assuming 1) I am assuming there is a rich condition since the hot start creates a lean condition and it only runs with hot start pulled in (creating a leaner mix) 2) The carb 't has been disassembled and thoroughly cleaned twice - no clogged jets 3) spark plug looks ok (I'd say) 4) float height has been checked and is in spec 5) accelerator pump has a nice strong jet of fuel squirting out and the diaphragm appears to be in good shape 6) the needle was 3 clips too high (supposed to be 2nd down from top, was 5th down). I have reset to factory and this made no difference 7) the carb is fitted with an aftermarket fuel screw. This thing is missing the spring and I think an o-ring? It is not leaking fuel, but maybe air into the bowl? 8.) tank was flushed and fresh fuel put in Any ideas? The only running with hot start issue certainly sounds like its running rich, but the dying as soon as it gets throttle could go either way so that throws me off. Much appreciated in advance!!!
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- carburetor
- hardstart
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so i have a 2020 yamaha ttr 230 with probably 40 hours on it i mostly ride trail and i find it a lot slower than my friends bikes so i’m looking to upgrade and i’ve been talking of facebook market place with a girl who wants a even trade for my bike for a 2013 kx250f with 33 hours on the original engine she wants to sell it because it’s just to fast just wondering what other people think i should do
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Hi i have a 2008 kx250f with low compression it has a compete new top end including a new cylnder head with new valves and every thing there is no leak in the intake and egsoust valve also i did test with cams conected and not conected or with full throtle i tried every little thing also i bought the bike not running with low compresssion when bought it had no compresstion and with a new piston it had 65 psi and then i realized all valve seats are meesed up and valves so i bought a brand new head with all new valves and gaskets and all but still 65 psi and before the head was leaking and it is not leaking now. i work on bikes so i know about the timming chain and stuff all those stuff have been cheaked when i spray starter fluid fire comes out of the intake with no pop or any sound just fire out of the intake (with timming and in spec valves) plese help me i have spent alot of money and dont know what to do also i live in ny and will pay some one to help me thank you
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My current bike is a 2004 kx250f and I have a set of 2010 kx450f wheels. There aftermarket and look amazing and I would like to put them on my 250f? I will will they fit? I dont mind swapping axles as well as brake rotors.
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my bike won’t start checked the shims and they are to spec timing is good but the only way i can get it to start is when i go 30 mph bump starting it after that it runs but won’t idle and kicks after it’s warm this is my first 4 stroke and don’t know what else it could b i had to change the o ring in the plug hole bc oil was getting in it
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So recently I got a bike test rode it everything worked shifted great and then I did a oil change and now every time I put it in gear the clutch isn’t stopping the wheel on the stand with clutch all the way in. When it’s on the ground it stalls out because of this. I tried adjusting the clutch lever but that hasn’t fixed anything, I also tried to drain a little bit of oil because I thought maybe it was to full but that hasn’t done anything either. Kinda a newbie at this whole bike thing so looking for some help from more experienced people
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hey does anyone know why my 2009 kx250f clutch is super super tight to pull i have got a new cable lubed it a new lever i got new clutch springs but i dont know when i was taking it apart if i dropped a little washed but im sure i diddnt and when i used my old lever it felt fine but when i took the clutch apart and got my new lever it all turned to shit when i put i back together i felt the clutch and it was horrifically still and when i pulled it it made a rubbing sound but i has nothing to do with the lever perch or the cable i dont know if the springs are rubbing but it is definitely rubbing on something does anyone have a idea on what it is or a fix?
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So my brother got a bike awhile ago which is kxf250 2006 and it was lean so got new adjustable fuel screw and put it in Then bike wouldn't run for 5 mins without cutting out If left for 10mijs to cool it starts up He attempted timing which he did but now only starts with hot start on when cold Sent to shop and they did full carb rebuild and tuning so idrk what up Might just need to go down a bit on main but help is needed Runs rough aswell ,sometimes but of smoke which didn't happen before I personally think to much fuel in engine so maby try adjusting fuel screw but I'm not 4 stroke mechanic so helps appreciated loads Thanks
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Does anyone n is if a rear break rotor on a 2016 kx 250f will fit on a 2019 yz250f
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Just putting out a feeler to see if anyones ever had a kx250f that starts/gets on throttle fine but when in neutral it just randomly surges? Its done it a couple times in gear but it drops down if i let the clutch out slightly. TPS is within spec, changed fuel filter in pump housing, and pulled injectors to verify spray pattern.