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Showing results for tags 'NeutecTubliss'.
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Nuetec says to use the tubeless system only with a new tire that has never had a rimlock used on it otherwise it won't be air tight at due to sidewall imprint from the rimlock. I have a new bike on order. Plan is to immediately install tubeless before riding but it will come from factory with rimlocks. Has anyone tried installing used or factory new tires with tubeless?
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It has a very neutral chassis, turns very well but doesn't give much up in stability. The power is very linear and easy to use. If you wan't a hard-hitting 2 stroke, this isn't your bike. Even with the aggressive map switch and the powervalve adjuster turned in, it much more mellow than my Yz. Although the power may not be exciting, it's perfect for gnarly technical terrain. Stock forks were harsh on square-edge obstacles. The Pressure springs(small spring in the top of the fork) are known to be to stiff for most offroad riding. I had them changed out when the forks were revalved. E-start works flawlessly and starts the bike within a couple seconds when cold. Ergo's feel good to me...at 6'1", I was worried that it would feel to small to me, but that's not the case. The rear brake lever is a little low for most people, but I actually prefer it that way and it's adjustable anyway. Brakes themselves feel good, the front in particular is very strong. I don't feel they give up much to the Brembo's on the Ktm's. 40 hour update: replaced the stock rear tire within 20 hours and did the front at about the 35 hour point. I now have a tubliss front and rear, with a new rim in the front because of bad crash I had. In that crash, I also smashed the pipe, split a radiator hose, twisted both radiators, and popped the preload adjusters out of both forks. Beta fixed the forks free of charge, so no complaints there. Separate from that crash, the stock map switch is busted and I blew the fuse for the e-starter, although it blew in extremely wet conditions. The most likely culprit is the horn, it's a pretty common issue that's easy to fix. Also, the stock plastic is extremely brittle and easy to crack. -
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Very light and nimble, great ergos, inspires confidence and makes you want to ride every day. The versatility of the bike is almost unbelievable considering it's only a 150. It has great low end grunt, a midrange that is all about maintaining traction, and a top end that will shock your buddies on bigger bikes. It can be ridden off the pipe with great effectiveness (especially helpful on those slippery days) or it can be ridden like a rocket on the pipe. It resists stalling as well as any bike I've ever owned...and I've owned a LOT! I get 3.5 hours of moderately hard riding per tank of fuel, so the range is among the best in the business. Now the bad news. As delivered the bike does have a couple of serious flaws, but they are easily fixed. The stock reed cage is junk. Replace it immediately with a V-force or Boyesen and you'll never have another worry. The progressive stock power valve spring is not well liked, and most guys replace it with the alternate straight-rate yellow spring. Some even prefer the red spring (from the 250/300's). Once you address the above items (and I recommend doing both before moving on to the next issue) you will still find that the jetting is horribly rich. This MUST be corrected early or you will be buying lots of spark plugs. Don't worry, the Mikuni is a great carb, it just needs to be jetted correctly. Once done you will be rewarded with phenomenal performance. -
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totally sucked stock. -
I know there are a lot of threads out there about these, I have been reading all the ones I can find, lol. From a more specific standpoint... I have a new set of michelin s12 xc's. In fact, not even in my hands yet. I do have a set of HD tubes i was thinking of putting in there. But, the thought of neutechs keeps creeping up on me. Our trails have a LOT of sand. I would like to run pretty low PSI. However, there are some areas with some rocks, AND I may take the bike elsewhere this year where there may be a lot more rocks. I may try to put my MX51s back on at that point though. I wouldn't be worried about low pressure pinch flats if it was purely sand. However, the rocks, roots, logs, etc. etc. Anyhow, my big questions are. 1) Does corner handling with say 7-8psi improve or get worse? I know I see a lot about straight line traction etc. But if its a sandy corner, or even a slightly harder one...is there a "roll" effect that affects cornering negatively? Wasn't sure if certain tires handled this kind of thing better due to side wall strength. 2 ) I was considering just doing the rear, and putting the HD tube in the front with an extra rim lock in the event it goes flat i could make it back (or is this stupid? Lol). 3) Would I have excessive chunking/wear on the soft tire using again for example sake, 7-8psi. 4) Is it really THAT much of a traction difference from 10psi to say 6psi min...or should I just stick to around 10psi and HD tubes. I ran 10 on my wr last season. I was fatter, the bike was heavier, lol...same tire BUT 18" wheel. See now I have a 19" on my YZ, which could also factor into the pinch flat/rim damage at low PSI. Anyhow, I have been going back and forth in my mind for days, any help would be nice. Would like to order/install it asap when I get/do tires. thanks
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Nuetech Tubliss Site I like the idea of a full rim lock. I had about three flats last season running harescrambles. They say slime works very well to help prevent flats. What do you guys think about this for the woods? Any reviews?
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Chatted with the local shop about Tubliss and got the impression they are not fans and would really rather not deal with it. Not what I wanted to hear as I was really a fan of their 10 buck tire changes . . . those days are over with Tubliss So it's looking like I'm going to need to do it myself and want to get the best set up to eliminate as much frustration and cussing as possible. Last time I had a buddy help me change a tire, it was a real pain in the ass. I've got a couple large spoons and a small one . . . and was looking at this bead breaker/workstand thing . . . do they help? Any tools/tricks you guys have found along the way would be appreciated!!!
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Motor was fit into a 2005 KX125 chassis. The ultimate woods bike... well... for its time at least! Bike is an absolute blast and super nimble. The KDX motor is like a tractor and does awesome in the tight and technical stuff. Cylinder porting, head machining, a 38mm Lectron, and FMF rev pipe lets it actually rev out, before that it had a noticeable point where it felt like it died up top. The KYB MX suspension valved for the woods works great for me. I think the only thing stopping this bike from being the perfect bike is e-start...but at least it starts super easily. The build was a blast, I would recommend to anyone considering building one, www.KDXrider.net for tons of info how to do it! -
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Bulletproof and nitrogen charged performance creates a lively feel. Lasts at least twice as long as every other mousse available. 100% flat-proof performance. See the Nuetech Mousse Tire Fitment Guide in the Documnets link next to the Questions and Answers tab above to find the match for your specific tire. Please note that the Mousse does not always match the tire size you a using. To find the correct size Mousse please find your tire on the list and it will show you our part # to use. -
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Steadily tweeking it for more friendly trail riding...but it is awesome! -
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This is actually a 2011 GasGas EC250 Racing and not an XC. Anyway... Last of the small framed GG's! These bikes fit my short self better than any other bike I have ever ridden. Really like the styling and the little details that most don't think about that this bike has. OEM it comes with a hydraulic clutch, dual ignition mapping, Galfer rotors, Vforce III reeds, 2k3 stator, an actually useful headlight, and a lot of smaller details. I'm really loving the 48mm PFP Zokes up front and the Ohlins 888 shock. The forks are plush without feeling mushy and vague. The shock, well, it's Ohlins! Just dial it in and it works great everywhere. This bike has a lot of bells and whistles added by it's previous owner (Thanks Ricky D!) along with a ton of extra parts when they're needed. Currently equipped... BRP bar isolators/Scotts damper setup, Renthal twin walls, Fastway barkbusters w/Cycra shields, MSR pegs, Lectron carb, Rekluse Core EXP 3.0 w/matching billet clutch basket, Emperor Racing radiator cages, RB head mod, LTR powervalve cover, FMF Gnarly pipe and Q4 Stealth silencer, carbon fiber pipe guard, Renthal 13t CS sprocket, Supersprox 48t rear sprocket, No Toil dual layer air filter, Twin Air billet air filter cage, bib mousses front and rear, Kenda Parker DT's front and rear, and I'm sure I'm forgetting a thing or two! Now, for the only things I don't like. The seat reminds me of a KTM it is so hard but instead of a 2x4 like KTM it feels more like a 2x6! 🙄 The other is how the air filter locates on the air box. You have to be really careful to get it seated correctly. Next mods for me are Tubliss on both ends and Goldentyre Fatty 90/100 up front and a Shinko 525 cheater 120/100 rear. Also have some smaller diameter Scott Deuce grips coming as well. Hopefully this will complete the mods I want to make and I'll be ready for the upcoming AMRA racing season. Overall, I'm really loving this bike and thinking I will be enjoying it for years to come. -
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Great smooth engine, love the electric start, and light weight. -
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Good vehicle with plenty of power. Probably wasn't the best for a beginner but it gets 'er done. -
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It is my perfect little trail bike :) -
Hey guys I'm looking to upgrade my bike. I currently ride a 2014 KTM 250SX, I ride everything in BC from steep rocky trails, wide open flats, tight woods single track but more than anything else I like hillclimbing. I'm looking for more power for the really big climbs that the Okanagan has to offer. I run a Michelin m12 XC and it seems to grab good in the steep rocky stuff and sand hills. I love how light and flickable my sx is in the air but I find that i'm spending less time building/hitting big jumps and spending more time looking for massive climbs and gnarly lines. Will going to the 300xc be much of an upgrade? Does it have much more power than a 250 2T? I would like to stick with a two stroke (hence posting in the 2-Stroke section) but would consider getting a 450f possibly as a second bike if its the way to go. Love everything about 2 strokes, the power, low maintenance $$ and that not many buddies ride 2 strokes. I've owned a 08 crf250r before my 250sx and rode buddies 450f's so I'm somewhat familiar with 4 strokes vs 2. I'm looking for advice and opinions on the 300xc/xcw from people who own them or have owned them as well as people who owned both 450s and 300 2ts. I'd like to get a new bike this season and wondering if its worth the upgrade to the Ktm 300's. Any Input is appreciated as no one I ride with has a 300Xc/Xcw
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I was thinking of going tubeless, but im not to sure if I want to or not. I need some good info to convince me. What do you use and why?
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I have been running a 78% Nitrogen mixture in my tires. It seems to work very well. Anybody else?
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Rather than conventional HD tubes, have any of you Baja veterans used the TuBliss inserts in your wheels in Baja? Good? bad? doesn't matter?
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