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  1. In this post i'm not talking about experiece/age/bike/cc/or anything other then comparing Sitting to standing while riding. For example lets talk about GNCC style trails witch are open and have multi lines to choose from. Can someone be a great rider if they are mostly a sit down type rider? there are two types of people i see, the type who sit most of the time or stand almost all the time. I find my self to be more of a sit down rider but it's not because i don't feel good while standing it's just what I've learned to work best for me. I know the whole standing while charging and sit down in the end of the corners type deal but let's count that out. I know while standing you can use more of your body and there for turn better and flow with a better speed. But can someone who is sitting most of the time still be at a level where it is considered good/great? What are your thoughts? Mods if you think this should be in tech riding please feel free to move it out of General. Thanks guys!
  2. I was today reminded violently that probably better is to sit not to stand while in mud and don't try to get out of rut in half way Front end washout to the left and I dove into the bushed on right I have no problem with saving this when in sand or dirt but in mud it's so quick you have no chance to react.
  3. Hans Schmid

    When side hilling....

    Cutting along a long side hill, where should your body position be? Weigh the outside or inside peg? Standing? Sitting? Justify your opinion and logic...
  4. So what say you? Do you shift while standing? I've been riding since I was 4, and I'm 32 now. I am a trail rider only and have never competed motocross. I realized sometime last year that it's not a skill I've ever really developed, and so now I go out of my way to practice, but it still doesn't feel natural to me. I decided to ask my buddies if they do, and was surprised to learn that I was almost the only that didn't, but I manage to keep up with them just fine on the trails. Do you shift while standing?
  5. As summer rolls in and the temps roll up, we off-road riders seek relief from the oppressive heat while trying to stay cool. For us the task at hand may be solved with choosing from the incredible variety of vented riding gear, hydration systems, and cooling vests…but for your motorcycle it may not be as easy to pick a solution that works as well. Modern off-road motorcycles use water-cooled systems to manage engine heat. Before water cooling, controlling engine heat was much more difficult because of the overall design of the engines and the way “hot spots” are produced, especially in the cylinder walls. Water cooling allowed engine designers to effectively manage these hot spots and dissipate heat from these areas, allowing higher compression ratios and overall power to weight gains. But managing heat is still a huge problem…heat is your enemy and can rob valuable horsepower on any off-road machine…many off-road bikes are now coming with EFI systems and their ECU (on-board computer) reacts to excessive heat by retarding the spark advance curve (and even shutting down the engine), thereby removing the chance to achieve maximum engine output. To read a good reference article about how modern EFI systems are affected by engine heat, check out this cool Boyesen Engineering Tech Tip article. Before beginning the article we studied boring stuff like “surfactants” and learned that these surfactant things that keep getting mentioned are substances that lower the surface tension of a liquids like water or the tension between certain liquids or between a liquid and a solid, kind of like a lubricant…and that makes sense because surfactants may act as detergents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, foaming agents, and dispersants. Whew that was mouthful…but when we talk about these “surfactants” we’re talking about a quality that the cooling substance contains to aid in the disbursement of cooling area within the contained cooling system. We also talked to the experts about what happens when you use the newer “No-Boil” cooling formulas such as Evans Waterless or Two2Cool’s PRO-G formula and we found the feedback suprising – read on to see what some of them said… It also helps to understand where hot spots come from and understand the phenomenon known as “cavitation”…And why is it bad for cooling systems? We asked the experts at Boyesen Engineering and this is what they said: Fluid air cavitation within a closed loop engine cooling system is an often overlooked problem area that contributes to an engine’s overall inability to maintain operating temperatures. Cooling fluid cavitation is the formation of small air cavities in the coolant – i.e. small fluid-free zones (“air bubbles" or "voids”). These air bubbles are the consequence of friction based impeller forces acting upon the cooling fluid. From a physics point of view, whenever a fluid is “cut", in this instance by a water pump impeller, tiny air bubbles are introduced into the fluid resulting from the fast change in pressure. Air does not have the same ability to express heat out of the internal surfaces of your machine’s engine when compared to cooling fluid and this contributes to “hot spots” and overheating. We’ve taken some time to look at some of the solutions offered in this arena in order to give all of us a better understanding of how these products work and why they may be good (or not so good) for our overheated iron steeds. As most off-road bikes are water cooled in one way or another, we’ll look at products that may improve that system in some way, whether it be by hardware (radiator caps and improved pumps/impellers) as well as products that can be added to improve the cooling efficiency and heat dissipation of aforementioned systems (coolants and additives). Now that I've laid the foundation and you've read this far, click to the next page for product 1 of the 7 engine heat fighting products you need to know about. #1: TWO2COOL COOLANTS How does it work? Two2Cool has a coolant line consisting of three different coolants/antifreeze formulas, or as an additive and they can be used in automotive or motorcycle applications diesel or gas. All share a proprietary "Heat Transfer Fluid" that removing the heat from the engine and moving to where it can be released into the air that passes over the radiator(s) using the "Total Contact" technology that reduces aeration, air pockets and surface tension. PRO-G is the newest product and it is a “no-boil” formula. We’ve heard different and varied opinions this technology and how it works and the jury still seems to be out but Two2Cool is hanging their reputation on it, and the owner Bill Swisher has been around the block more than once and is a very smart cat. How do you use it? Most products are ready to use straight out of the bottle and into your cooling system. (ThumperTalk Staff recommends flushing your cooling system any time you change from one type to another to avoid cross-contamination) and the coolant additives are mixed at 8oz. per gallon. More specific instructions on proper use should be noted on the bottle or the Two2Cool website. How do you dispose of it? All the Two2Cool coolant products are biodegradable as they use Propylene Glycol (PG) as needed which makes it legal in virtually all race sanctioning and safe on the trails. Photo: Two2Cool's Pro-G No Boil Racing Coolant #2: ENGINE ICE COOLANT How does it work? Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant is a product that uses a very high grade of PG (Propylene Glycol), pure water and a protective iingredient in a proprietary blending process. These ingredients and the processes create more consistent, if not lower, operating temperatures in your engine through "surfaction" (remember this?) surfaction is a reduction of surface tension of the liquid coolant within the system. Engine ice is run by Dave Kimmey, another long-time veteran of the motorcycle industry and a wealth of knowledge as well. How do you use it? Mix nothing with it, it is pre-diluted and ready to use. You drain the cooling system and put in the Engine Ice, or rinse the system with bottled water first (never put tap water in an engine) but the best way according to Engine Ice is to the flush the system with 50/50 white vinegar and bottled water before filling with the product. So, you fill the cooling system, run engine until warm, let cool, drain, fill with bottled water, run engine, let cool, drain and fill with the product…same as cleaning a coffee maker. How do you dispose of it? Engine Ice is biodegradable as defined by OSHA and the FDA, but once run through an engine, it's not quite as "nice" as it originally was, so it is recommend you dispose of all fluids properly like any glycol based product. Fact: Some motorcycle shops and auto shops will take used fluids as it is sold and recycled. Photo: Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant #3: THE BOYESEN SUPERCOOLER Boyesen Engineering has developed a water pump system called the Supercooler which can increase the performance of your cooling system by flowing more coolant and eliminating cavitation (remember this?) where possible. What is cavitation and why is it bad for cooling systems? Fluid air cavitation within a closed loop engine cooling system is an often overlooked problem area that contributes to an engine’s overall inability to maintain operating temperatures. Cooling Fluid Cavitation is the formation of small air cavities in the coolant – i.e. small fluid-free zones (“air bubbles" or "voids”). These air bubbles are the consequence of friction based impeller forces acting upon the cooling fluid. From a Physics point of view, whenever a fluid is “cut", in this instance by an impeller, tiny air bubbles are introduced into the fluid resulting from the fast change in pressure. Air does not have the same ability to express heat out of the internal surfaces of your machine’s engine when compared to cooling fluid. With this in mind the absolute design criteria for any water pump system’s impeller is to re-introduce coolant back into the engine with as little air cavitation as possible. How does it work? Boyesen addresses these issues by engineering a better design that cuts down on cavitation and improves flow rates by improved impeller and pump cover design. The Boyesen hydrodynamic water pump kits have been tested and designed to flow more coolant and eliminate cavitation within the coolant, and a result, deliver a much more efficient “coolant charge” to the engine. By increasing the flow, the engine will run cooler at a more constant temperature. The Supercooler's design is based on the process of correcting the inefficiencies and production-based limitations found in the design of stock water pump systems. This would include re-engineering the inlet diameter capacity and hydrodynamic efficiency of the impeller. Boyesen claims the Supercooler can reduce engine temperatures by as much as ten degrees, as confirmed by tests at Team Kawasaki. So how does the Supercooler achieve this? Hydrodynamics. Boyesen's investment-cast aluminum water pump cover has bigger water inlets, a sculpted design, no casting seams, less restrictive corners, a more efficient impeller and less cavitation than other units available. The Supercooler's optimally formed interior surfacing process eliminates all coolant flow "pinch-points" resulting in a hydrodynamically efficient interior that dramatically increases coolant flow efficiency and ultimately leads to increased fluid flow re-entry rates into your bike's engine. It also features a large inlet opening. This is superior to stock inlets, which are small and often have 90-degree bends. The patented impeller is 25 percent more efficient at moving water than stock systems. The design reduces fluid cavitation, which increases cooling capacity. More info on the SuperCooler can be found at Boyesen.com Photo: Boyesen Supercooler as installed in ThumperTalk Review by TT Reviewer Monk #4: EVANS WATERLESS POWERSPORT COOLANT How does it work? Evans Powersports Coolant is a waterless engine coolant, consisting of a blend of glycols, the same basic chemicals found in antifreeze, but without the water so it essentially does not boil in the radiator like regular water based coolants. Coolant formulas with 10% or more water content create vapor pressure and have a boiling point too close to the coolant’s operating temperature. Steam takes up 1,244 times more space than liquid water; that’s enough expansion power to run a freight train… Inside your engine, that vapor expansion pushes liquid coolant out of the cooling passages. The naked metal temperature at those locations can then spike by hundreds of degrees, which is the source of hot spot detonation. When things really get cooking, the head can warp causing head gasket failure. Because Evans is waterless and has a very high boiling point, it does not suffer from this steam expansion or the associated problems of boiling coolant with its air bubbles and resulting hotspots. How do you use it? When converting to Evans, as we've mentioned earlier, you must get the water out of the system and Evans makes a product for this called Prep Fluid; instructions are on the bottle. In an emergency, water or antifreeze can be added to Evans, although that will reduce its performance down to that of antifreeze. It is non-corrosive, doesn’t go bad, and has a freeze point of -40C/F. It shrinks as it cools so there is no freeze-burst danger. How do you dispose of it? The formulas do contain ethylene glycol (except the CCS, ASRA, and AMA Pro Flat Track legal “NPG Coolant”), so they should be handled and recycled in the same manner as antifreeze. Photo: Evans Waterless Powersports Coolant #5: MISHIMOTO OVERSIZED RADIATORS How does it work? A high-quality radiator in good working order is one of the most important components when addressing your cooling issues. These radiators feature a 100% brazed aluminum core and each radiator is designed for a clean OEM fit and have been assembled with precision TIG welding for durability. Mishimoto oversized radiators are designed to optimize coolant capacity as well as cooling fin density and pitch, as well as strength and durability, to meet the unique demands motocross racing and off-road riding.. These radiators are made with two or three rows of high-quality aluminum, which allows all parts of the radiator, including the tanks, to dissipate heat faster than a stock unit. Also, the cooling fins are designed for maximum heat dissipation. The coolant tubes on Mishimoto radiators have greater surface areas for improved cooling over stock OEM radiators and they feature more coolant capacity than OEM applications. How do we correctly determine if we need an oversized radiator? Any time a motorcycle sees heavy usage, it can benefit from increased cooling capacity afforded by a performance radiator. Even in an otherwise stock, mildly ridden or driven application, the performance product provides that extra margin of safety on a hot, humid day. How do we install the product - are there any special considerations? The Mishimoto products are designed with ease of installation in mind, so it should be a simple bolt-in affair and they also have Customer Service line that can walk you through the installation should you have questions. Photo: Mishimoto oversized radiator test results on 2009 RM-Z250 #6: RED LINE SUPERCOOL COOLANT AND WATER WETTER COOLANT ADDITIVE How does it work? Red Line’s WaterWetter acts as a surfactant, a wetting agent that pushing bubbles away from metal to add cooling efficiency when an engine gets hot. It is AMA-legal, as it does not add slipperiness or change water’s coefficient of friction. WaterWetter is completely compatible with glycol antifreeze, but WaterWetter alone has no freezing protection properties. WaterWetter is also available for motorcycles as “SuperCool with WaterWetter”, a premixed coolant with the right amount of WaterWetter and filtered, deionized water. How you use it? SuperCool with WaterWetter is simple to use, just flush your radiator, fill it and you’re done. This can be convenient, as most riders don’t know their bike’s coolant system capacity offhand. When using just WaterWetter, you can use a 12oz bottle to treat up to 3.5 gallons. How do you dispose of the product? Is it biodegradable? WaterWetter and SuperCool are both completely biodegradable. Photo: Red Line Supercool with WaterWetter #7 CYCRA/CV4 HIGH PRESSURE RADIATOR CAPS How does it work? CYCRA/CV4 offers a radiator cap can increase the boiling point of your coolant. How does it do this? By increasing the pressure required before it opens to release (and lose) your valuable coolant. Straight water will boil around 212 degrees, but under pressure your cooling system will prevent the coolant from boiling at that temperature. Many coolant mixtures will not boil until almost 300 degrees – so when the pressure is higher, the temp to boil is higher as well. Stock radiator caps are rated at around 15PSI and the CV4 cap is rated at a bit over 25PSI and as the CV cap is designed to open at a higher pressure (and temperature) it keeps the cooling system from overflowing until the bike reaches a higher temperature. Keep in mind that radiator caps are also rated in atmospheric pressures (BAR) - 1.1 bar is roughly 15psi, and 1.3 bar is around 18psi. How you use it? Installation is simple and simply requires that you replace the stock radiator cap. If you’d like to read more about the real-world usage of these types of radiator caps, you’ll want to check out this thread in the ThumperTalk Forum. Photo: CYCRA/CV4 High Pressure Radiator Cap We're sure that there are more viable powersports cooling products out there, we just didn't have the time to cover them all in one article. But, we'd love to hear from you either about what we wrote or about products and/or techniques that you're using with success that we didn't cover. Thanks in advance for your comments (see below)! Sean Goulart, Contributing Editor
  6. shampoo

    Riding alone

    Hello I am curious how many of you ride alone and if so do you choose easier terrain or do you take any other precautions? J
  7. Check out this quick tip on the importance of front wheel placement when railing a corner rut
  8. I was introduced to trails riding (in Michigan) through a friend who, when he first took me riding, maintained a breakneck pace. Later, when we rode with riding friends of his, everyone in the group was determined to outdo the other, in terms of speed and getting a big lead. When I began, I rode in denims, a t-shirt and work boots (and with helmet and goggles, of course). At the trailheads I was treated to a spectacle of riders in fancy riding gear, riding powerful (450 cc and up) bikes. All of this contributed to the impression I developed that trails riding is a race - it's about who can go the fastest. That was several years ago. Increasingly, as I ride the trails and become acquainted with the entire scope of the dirt biking scene, from arenacross, to motocross, to enduro, to trials and more, the more I am coming to appreciate the trail riding is not a race, and that those who want or need to race need to find the appropriate venue. There are plenty of tracks and places with organized competitions (at least in Michigan) for people who want to compete. ORV trails in federal and state forests in Michigan were not designed with racing in mind. For one thing, all of them permit two-way traffic. For another, hazards like trees have not been cut back from the trail's edge; usually trees are left standing right up the edge of state and federal trails. Smaller rocks and tree roots are not removed from the trails. Tight or hair-pin turns have been deliberately included to make the trail challenging, but are way too tight for racing purposes. In fact, let's allow the Michigan Department of Natural Resources itself speak to this truth. They have built and they maintain almost 2,800 miles of ORV trails in Michigan. Regarding these trails they warn: (Our) trails are lightly groomed and riders are likely to encounter narrow sand trails, rough moguls, steep hills, stumps, rocks, brush, loose surfaces and other hazards. Now, of course, there is no law (at least in Michigan) prohibiting racing on trails. What I am talking about here is the exercise of wisdom - one can "race" one's automobile on the public roadways but how smart is that (considering all the consequences of an accident) as opposed to racing at one's local raceway? It's time for racers to take their racing to race courses and race events ( such as enduros) and for people riding trails to ride like their on a trail - enjoy the trail, enjoy the challenge, but keep your speed reasonable for conditions and traffic.
  9. Everyone thinks they’re fast out there, but we all make mistakes that slow us down...not you? Well, we beg to differ! We’ve taken the time to talk to some of the sport’s best trainers and racers to get an idea of the top mistakes that slow many riders down, whether on the track or trail. Destry Abbott, Gary Bailey, Donnie Hansen, Ryan Hughes, Millsaps Training Facility and others all have contributed to these tips so take a look to see what’s slowing you down! #1 - YOUR BIKE IS TOO BIG FOR YOUR SKILLS Photo: Destry Abbott training students and DA8 Training Facility Most of our experts noted this as a reason that riders are slower than they should (or could) be as handling a bigger machine requires a lot of skill. “Professor” Gary Bailey, one of the legends of motocross and father of national champion David, has achieved such goals as an Inter-AMA win and two AMA 250cc motocross national victories finishing fourth in the series in 1974. Bailey has trained thousands of accomplished racers at the Gary Bailey MX School. He said: “For sure most riders want too big of a bike to start out. Too much power can get you in big trouble." Ryan Hughes, MX Pro Trainer at Ryno Power Gym and Factory Rider for Kawasaki, Honda and KTM also agreed, saying: “So many times I see a rider riding the same bike that Ryan Dungey rides. That rider knows the bike is capable to handle Ryan's speed, so they then try and mimic how Ryan rides that bike. Unfortunately, it often does not end well because in order to ride at those same speeds, a rider must ride over his head and ability.” So, when picking out your ride, make sure you use your head and not your heart. You can always move up...but it’s seldom that you see riders or racers wanting to move down in size or displacement. #2 - YOUR BIKE ISN’T PROPERLY PREPARED TO RIDE Photo: MTF Technician installs new tires Another common mistake cited by our experts that slows riders down is many don’t properly maintain their rides. From loose chains and bald tires to worn grips, there are many items which need consistent maintenance to perform at their optimal levels. Our panel agreed that they see many riders who have all new gear but worn out machines. Gary Bailey said: “Riders don't check their bike often to see if it is really safe to be on the track or even to ride.” Bryan Johnson, Head Trainer at Millsaps Training Facility, had this to say: "The number one mistake we see all the time is riders who don't properly maintain their practice bike. Their race bike is usually primed but in reality far more hours are put on a practice bike. So many guys end up getting hurt from an avoidable mechanical failure. Worn tires, chain and chain sliders and guides, sprockets and brake pads are just some examples" #3 - YOU AREN’T IN TIP-TOP SHAPE Photo: Ryan Hughes in full-on training mode It goes without saying that motocross and off-road riding are very physically strenuous and challenging activities to participate in. The stress and strain on your body is immense and no amount of new bike goodies is going to make up for being overweight, getting a bad night’s sleep, or a strained muscle. Our panel agreed that many riders are not physically prepared to take on the rigors of riding or racing, but that this could be avoided. Donnie Hansen, Head Trainer at DHMA, Motorcycle Hall of Fame Inductee, Honda Factory Rider, AMA 250cc Supercross Champion, Trophee and Motocross des Nations Champion, AMA Rookie of the Year and father of pro racer Josh, said: “Lack of training before riding or racing prevents riders from getting the most out of their bike and experience.” Ryan Hughes had this to say: When I go to the track I see so many riders, especially vet riders, which are in no shape to be riding a motorcycle even when they do it every weekend. Riders will complain that the track is too rough, spend all their money on making the bike better and hope all the safety equipment they are wearing is going to save them. Hughes continued: It seems no one wants to take the responsibility of being better and safer riders upon themselves. Most would rather point the finger at everything else when they get injured riding. The consequences are they same for every rider, but can actually be even higher for the rider that is unprepared.” #4 - YOU DON’T KNOW WHERE YOU’RE RIDING Photo: Donnie Hansen coaching Ken Roczen and Jake Weimer Many riders will show up at a new track or riding area knowing very little about the terrain or conditions. Specialty terrain requires special equipment and experience and you won’t get that by reading what others say...hands-on practice is where it’s at. Knowing where to brake for that next corner or running the right suspension setting only come from trial and error and remember - when it comes to racing - for some other riders it’s their home track, they’ve ridden it for years, you haven’t so you’re at a disadvantage. Destry Abbott, Head Trainer at DA8 Training Facility, Monster Energy Kawasaki rider with 5 AMA Hare and Hound Championships, 7 Gold Medals at ISDE and 5 time Best In The Desert Championships under his belt among other achievements had this to say: “Make sure you practice for whatever type of terrain you know you'll encounter in your upcoming race. For example if it's a sandy race, you should practice riding in sand as much as possible before the event so that you feel good and confident for that type of terrain.” #5 - YOU DON’T HAVE EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO GO FAST Photo: A welcoming pit with food, drinks (and bored girlfriend) at Southwick This tip may seem a bit less obvious but many riders and racers agreed that part of being fast and going long is having the little things. Maybe a cold drink between laps or a bite to eat like a banana. You wouldn’t believe how many riders don’t bring enough food or water when they ride. Potential issues like dehydration, heat exhaustion, and muscle strain are all compounded when you can’t find relief like a cold drink or a comfy place to sit out of the hot sun.. Destry Abbott: “The little things are big for me as well! Like having your goggles prepared, drinks, pit stop items, etc. I always like to be at the event and not feel rushed. It's nice to enjoy the moment and focus on the race, versus all the things you still need to do." # 6 - YOUR SUSPENSION ISN’T PROPERLY TUNED Photo: Race Tech adjusting suspensions Many riders and racers spend big bucks on suspension and then don’t set them up properly for different terrain types. Riding with suspension that’s too soft or harsh just tires you out and is inherently dangerous! Because the science of adjusting suspensions isn’t as easy as making a ham sandwich, some riders just set it and forget it. This is just stupid...your suspension needs to work for you, not against you. Donnie Hansen: “Front and rear suspension not balanced properly causing the bike not to handle or turn properly and race sag and the shock not measured out properly” are just some of the problems he advises his students to watch out for." Destry Abbott offered this: “If you've ever talked to one of my mechanics, they would all say I'm really picky when it comes to my bike set-up (more suspension than anything). Dialing in suspension for the race terrain prior to getting to the event is huge and will play a major part in your overall race results!” #7 - YOU NEED TO BE SMARTER, FASTER...AND TOUGHER! Photo: Ryan Hughes training AMA Pro Christian Craig Destry Abbott agrees that many riders still have a lot to learn...but don’t know how to “teach themselves” and he offered this: “Have a purpose on what you need to accomplish before each event and what you need to do with your training, and to your bike to make it happen. With this type of structure you'll get a lot better results, and won't be heading into your races unprepared.” When we spoke with Ryan Hughes, he was all about riding technique and when we listened to what he said, we realized many of us have been doing some things wrong. It’s hard to “un-train” yourself and shed those bad habit, so it’s great to have someone else watch you, take videos and for you to review your progress. Ryan offered these thoughts that apply to all riders: “Let me ask you: how do you train, how do you ride, how do you eat, how do you think, how do you stretch, how do you rest? All these points are really important in helping you become a better and safer rider. You must take all these aspects into account.” He continued: “Your body must be able to withstand the ride and withstand the crash because both are part of the sport. Being your own best advocate is important. Only you are responsible for your preparation that may one day save you. Take the responsibility into your own hands and don’t put it into anything or anyone else’s.” Now that you've gotten a taste of what the pro's have to say...want to learn more? Here are some links: Off-Road Riding Technique Forum Motocross Riding Technique Forum What Bike Should I Buy? We'd like to take an opportunity to thank our contributors, who are legends in this sport and can help you attain your goals: Destry Abbott at DA8 Training Facility Gary Bailey at Gary Bailey MX School Donnie Hansen at Donnie Hansen Motocross Academy (highly recommended) Ryan Hughes at The Ryno Institute The Team at Millsaps Training Facility
  10. Great video. I needed to watch it several times. I was distracted.... This gal is a great rider, cute as a button, and good at coaching. She has a ton of stuff on YouTube.
  11. guitarmusiczone


    Just want to share this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HbU43cQiqA0
  12. I have a 2002 xr400 with Applied Racing upper triple clamp & risers. I'm 6' tall and while the feel is immensely better than O.E., I still feel the need to go slightly higher. I could purchase some higher (say 15mm) risers that'll accomplish this but my concern is that will also automatically push the bars back towards me again due to the rake of the fork. With that in mind I was thinking these risers by ROX mounted directly on top of the AR risers would do exactly what I need. I'd prefer to have a single riser that does it all, but not finding anything at all, so it seems this is my only option. Any thoughts/suggestions? Thanks, Jeff
  13. er·go·nom·ics: a science that deals with designing and arranging things so that people can use them easily and safely: the parts or qualities of something's design that make it easy to use (Webster). The ergonomics of any motorcycle are not fixed and many manufacturers have devised clever ways to make your bike “fit you” better… so we’re going to take a look at some of the items that you’ll want to consider when customizing a motorcycle to fit you and be as comfortable and efficient as possible. The first thing I think about when I’m testing new motorcycles is “How well does this fit me?” Because if the machine is too big/small/heavy or whatever, I don’t want to be riding it on the street, track or trail. Once I commit, I’ll take the bike out for a full day and take notes on how it “feels” during the ride. And that encompasses many factors that all add up to that magic feeling that makes the riding the best that it can be… and then I think about how to make them even better. So let’s take a look at what’s available and how to use these products for their correct application(s). HANDLEBAR RISERS Simply put, these handlebar risers can dramatically change the position of your handlebars to suit your upper body and riding style. By changing the position of your upper body and distance to the handlebars, you can achieve better control and comfort on virtually any motorcycle. Many different manufacturers make these bar risers and among them are companies like Biltwell, Rox Speed FX, SW-Motech and Heli-Bars. We contacted Mike “Otto” Deutsch from Biltwell, who offered these tips: We then spoke with Ryan Jensen from ROX Speed FX, where they have pioneered advancements in the bar riser arena for all types of powersports vehicles. TT: What are bar risers and why do you make pivoting units? RJ: Handlebar risers are just what they sounds like, parts that raise your handlebars higher than they are located from the OEM position. Rox Pivoting handlebar risers are unique because they mount just like your handlebars and allow you to pivot your bars fore and aft to get you set up right where you want to be on your bike. TT: When installing bar risers, what should we be aware of? i.e. - stock cable length limitations, handlebar choices, etc. RJ: The #1 question we get asked is: “How high can I go with the stock cables, or will my stock cables work with a riser?” I would love to say that we have unlimited access to every bike out there but we do not. The easiest way to find out how high you can go is to first, pull the bars out of the clamps, next lift them up and see how high you can go before the cables get tight. At that point figure out what cables are tight and see if you can cut any cable ties that might be holding them from gaining a bit more length. Next see if they can be rerouted if needed. A lot of times gaining a very little bit goes a long ways with risers. The next question we get asked is: “What bar diameter does my bike come with?” Again, I wish we knew what all bikes had. In the dirt bike, enduro and dual sport world there’s typically 2 sizes used; 7/8” (22mm) or 1 1/8” (28mm). Some of the newer BMW’s are coming with 1 ¼” bars too. Once that’s figured out, decide what you’d like to gain from installing a riser. Most folks want to sit upright more on dual sport bikes. Dirt bikes and enduro bikes, it’s more common to get the bars more comfortable for standing. The biggest thing is to make the bike fit you, it’s amazing how much better the bike can be and how much more fun you can have when you make the ergonomics come to you. TT: What is a 2-axis bar riser? RJ: A 2 axis or “pivoting” handlebar riser allows you to pivot the bars right where you want them on the machine all while maintaining proper handlebar alignment. They are a way for you to make the machine come to you. TT: Does installing bar risers affect any other parts of the bike's ergonomics? RJ: It can yes. Depending on the person, it can feel much different and most of the time for the better. Sometimes getting the bars more comfortable can bring out other areas that need some adjustments but rarely does it ever cause any negative issues. SEAT FOAM Altering your seat foam is the least inexpensive, easiest and simplest way to raise or lower the seat height of your motorcycle. I’ve used this technique with great success on a number of my off-road mounts. The lowering procedure has very little room for error, so if you aren’t comfortable with wielding an electric knife or installing a seat cover, it’s best left to a professional upholsterer. I’ve never seen this method used on street applications, and I would guess that is primarily due to the total re-engineering of the fitted seat cover. Altering your seat foam so it’s taller is a lot easier and is a great method for taller riders to achieve the correct positioning on top of the bike. Manufacturers such as Enduro Engineering, Factory Effex, Guts Racing and SDG offer taller foam, replacement seat covers and even pre-made complete seats with approx. 1.5” of taller seating position. For street machines, we would recommend either a custom seat as offered by our friends at Mustang Seats or take the whole thing to a car upholsterer and see what they can do for you in this regard. Café racers style bikes normally have a seat that is very thinly padded as it is so we wouldn’t recommend trying to shave any more off. FOOTPEGS , SHIFT LEVERS and BRAKE PEDALS Many options abound for both street and dirt machines when it comes to altering the position of your footpegs and associated shift lever and brake pedal. Off-road aftermarket footpegs are available from our friends at Pro Moto Billet, who make some of the best products in this segment. I’ve used their Fastway pegs, I have a set on my YZ144 and they are the bomb. Let’s look at what how they can help a rider “fit” on the bike. We spoke with Caleb Frankamp from Pro Moto Billet/Fastway about how their footpegs work and what features they offer… TT: How do adjustable footpegs help riders fit on their bikes? CF: All Fastway footpeg styles are designed to utilize three patented adjustments: Adjustable Height, Adjustable Traction, and Adjustable Camber (tilt). The Universal Collar System (UCS) allows you to mount Fastway foot pegs in either the stock or lowered positions on most bikes - simply by reversing the collar. For shorter riders, they run them in the stock position. Taller riders (and those wanting less transition from sitting to standing) love our low-boy position, which offers up to 10mm of drop. The UCS system also makes it easy for you to fully rebuild your pegs, or take them with you to your new brand or model bike by simply changing out the collars. All sets of Fastway pegs ship with 2 sets of F3 (replaceable) threaded cleats; short (10mm), and tall (12mm cleats); which allow you to customize the shape and traction level of your footbed. Set them up all tall, all short, arched center, tall outside, tapered, or get creative… We also offer F5 Serrated cleats, and the ultimate in traction– our F6 spiked cleats. F6 cleats are like being velcroed to your pegs. Fastway has a Patented Camber (tilt) System allows you to customize the up or downward angle of your pegs to match your skeletal and joint angles. If it’s important to tune your motor, your suspension, your bar height and rotation– what about tuning the most load-bearing contact you have with your bike? Yep, your footpegs! Tune them in, and gain more endurance, control, and traction. For the street side, there are also a huge range of options in aftermarket adjustable footpegs, and one cool new option for cruisers is the Kuryakyn SwingWing pegs which actually fasten in place of your stock peg and provide a secondary fold-out peg 3" forward. MFW (Germany) makes some really good options for footpegs for many sportbike/ADV and dual sport machines and it’s worth taking a closer look at their Vario System which helps you to find an ergonomic riding position with an adjustable footpeg system provides (up to) eight possible positions over a 360 degree range, and thus changes the position of the inside edge of the footpeg slightly thus by moving the foot outwards. Adjustable shift levers for off-road machines from folks like Hammerhead Designs are “adjustable upward and downward with shim placement and fore and aft with optional shift tips”. These shift tips include options for different offsets that are quoted in degrees! We’ve seen this system and it is very trick…you can actually design the shifter using a myriad of different parts for a perfect feel, no matter the size of your foot or sole design on your boot. Adjustable brake pedals for the street are fairly common with manufacturers like Cycle Pirates offering a forward-thinking adjustable unit that features three possible position combinations as well as a removable arm and folding toe tab. Hammerhead also offers some ultra-trick dirt-oriented hardware in this category and their rear brake pedal with adjustable tip is machined from 6061 billet aluminum and the rotating tip positions are adjustable to change the length shorter, longer or stock. HANDLEBARS Changing your handlebars is a simple way to change the way you fit into the cockpit of your ride. Almost all off-road handlebar manufacturers offer a variety of different sizes and shapes of handlebars. Look to Renthal and ProTaper for some a wide variety of sizes and styles. For off-road bikes, handlebars are measured with three ways: Width, Height and Sweep (aka Pullback) and it’s best to know these measurements on your current ride so you know what measurements will need to change to suit your riding style. When looking at a change in your dirt machine’s handlebars, it’s best to ascertain what you don’t like about the current ones you use. Is the bar too far away when you sand up, not allowing full body extension? You need “taller” bars. Does your upper body feel cramped and you have to stand up to get leverage? Your bars are too short. On street bikes this becomes more complicated. Because of the various mounting systems and styles of handlebars, swapping them out can make for unwanted drama and expense. But with that aside, there are too many choices to really talk about then all here, but both Biltwell and Kuryakyn offer an amazing assortment of picks for many street and cruiser models, with manufacturers like EMGO and BikeMaster offering about everything else. LOWERING LINKS AND OTHER METHODS And in our next installment (Part 2) we’ll expand this topic to include more sophisticated methods; including items like lowering links, adjustable linkage guards and more extensive suspension modifications and also delve into how these items can adversely affect handling, braking, seat height…and the remedies to such issues.
  14. I ride an xr200 1991 and got some fly boots for fairly cheap used. Shifting is hard! And unless I hold my foot out towards the side I always accident up shift. And brakes, I can't be as gentle with them. It's either no breakers or rear wheel lock up. Any help and tips would be greatly appreciated.
  15. Hey all, I recently bought a 13 WR250F, and so far am loving the bike (came off a 04 yz125). The power is very mellow and easy to use in the bush which is where I ride. That said, I am wondering where the correct position is on the foot pegs for my feet. I wear MX boots, is this what all enduro riders wear? I have played a bit with my gear shifter position and rear brake freeplay to try and set it up so i can have my foot under the shifter and over the rear brake while standing/sitting but I can't find a happy medium. I am fearful of riding the rear brake with my foot over it, and sometimes accidentally hit it and lock up my gear. I had the gear shifter up so high that I had to left my leg off to change gears correctly, surely this isn't the correct technique for off road riding. Originally I would ride with the arch of my foot (the curved part?) and stick my feet outwards to prevent hitting the rear brake or shifting. But holding the bike with my legs feels unnatural this way, so I assume its not the correct way to ride, as everybody says. Grip the bike with your legs! So being a total gumby and noob, what is the correct technique and foot placement? Should I look at a after market shift leaver? I am a size US 12 in a MX boot.
  16. Hello, first time posting here. I am looking for some guidance from the more experience dirt riders about the following; I got hitched pretty hard with "enduro" after 34 years of street bike riding. I have owned suzuki's, yamaha's, bmw's and now a KTM ADV. All big bikes (1,000cc plus). Now, I went to a KTM dealer (where I bought the "street" KTM) and got a 2014 KTM 450 XC-F (it was a closed-out deal and got a nice discount). I did not think too much about the cc's because, as I told you before, I'm used to big cc's. Well, I went to my first two enduro competitions (yes, I am that entusiastic about it) and boom! first lesson: my skills as street biker ARE NOT transferable to dirt biking (that's ok, I have the motivation to learn)...second lesson: that bike I got it's simply TOO POWERFUL and it is not, to my humble and inexperience opinion, an "enduro" bike. I put everything on it to try to control such "crazy horse": flywheel weight (helped a lot), rekluse, and other aftermarket parts, but it's still is kind of too much!!! I know, it's the rider...not the bike what counts! but I am now wondering to what extent keep on riding/competing (even though I do it for pure fun...but in any case I want to be "competive") may make my learning process even more difficult. Lastly, this past week-end competition my bike start having overheating problems in the more technical/difficult trails, very common to 4-strokes. Results, in both competitions I have been DNF because I just couldn't finish...the bike demands so much from me (phisically, as it is heavy) that I was simply too tire to control it then I started falling to the ground over and over again. I am renconsidering my decision to keep riding enduro with the KTM and thinking about changing to a lighter bike (250 2 strokes perhaps?). I would be very greatful for you views/comments . Thank you!
  17. mxracer77

    HELP- Bad head shake on cr 125

    Just got a 2001 cr 125. Everything feels good besides he front end. Btw I'm 120lbs. But i almost went down hard a few time off of jumps cause near top sometimes I'd get really bad head shake and it'd really mess me up. Sometimes going into corners and down straightaways too it felt really unstable in the front end. How can I fix this or make it not as bad because it can get really sketchy and scare me away from some of the bigger jumps and stuff. Lowered the compression of the front forks a lot about halfway through the day and kinda helped but not much.
  18. http://youtu.be/dnHroMTVoyU Line selection into a corner is very crucial in learning to carry momentum into a turn. Number one in carrying momentum is looking up and learning to read trail, to actually see an opportunity of where you can use the outside of the trail to carry that extra little bit of speed into the turn. Understand that by doing this, you also have to brake less. By using the outside of the trail on the entrance, it opens up the arc of the turn and it isn’t as tight as the existing line that everyone else uses and requires less braking. Most riders look down in front of their wheel and focus on the same line that everyone else uses. To remedy this situation in practice, get in the habit of coming out of a corner and looking up to the next turn. This does not mean that you don’t look back in front of your wheel. It’s a constant scan from your front tire and down the trail. This makes it easier to find those edges required to carry momentum into a corner, but also allows the rider to ride more defensively, ready for obstacles such as logs, ruts and other trail obstacles that can stop forward progress and momentum. Looking ahead and using the outside edge also helps to avoid those braking bumps coming into a turn. Once you find that outside line, most times, you will drop to the main line. Front wheel placement is key. On a tight turn, where there is a tree on the inside, the rider has to place the front wheel slightly high on the berm to avoid contact with the tree on the inside. But, not so high that the front wheel washes up and over the berm. The next time you are out riding, try playing around with these techniques and see how affects your corner speed, especially if you're riding a grass track and you have more room to play. For more information on Rich Lafferty Riding Schools and a 2 day school in your area, contact us through our website at www.richlaffertyracing.com Thanks, Rich Lafferty About Me
  19. Scralatchtica824

    Excessive engine braking?

    I've noticed compared to other bikes I've ridden, both 2 and 4 stroke, my crf250l has a lot of engine braking the second you're off the throttle. I don't remember if it was like that before I went stage 1 with exhaust, intake opening and programmer. Normally this isn't a problem but when you're ridding at very low speeds in 1st gear off-road, immediately after you left off the throttle it kind of upsets the whole balance of the bike as if you tapped the front brakes. I'm in the process of removing the evap and pair crap but I doubt that will have any effect.
  20. I've been doing a pile of trials riding vids & tutorials here, and a lot of guys have been asking for cross training versions - e.g. trials techniques applied to dirt bikes which are not only great for endurocross and extreme enduros, but useful for everyday dirt riding. So I started up a new website all about cross training here. These are only the written tutorials so far, but will start adding vids shortly. A guy in my trials club and took out two seconds and a win in the final of his division in endurocross in our state recently, then won each race the same series interstate. He's happy to be filmed doing these techniques so will start posting them soon. BEFORE YOU START Cross training - an introduction Protective gear Bike setup for cross training Setting up your suspension BASIC CROSS TRAINING TECHNIQUES Develop your balancing skills Full lock turns on a dirt bike Body positioning for cross training Braking Feathering & dropping the clutch Riding across a camber or slope INTERMEDIATE CROSS TRAINING TECHNIQUES Wheelies cross training-style U-turns & tight corners Hill climbs & ascents Downhills & drop offs Riding in soft sand Riding in mud Riding over rocky ground Mid-speed turns & cornering How to jump your enduro bike ADVANCED CROSS TRAINING TECHNIQUES Pivot turns & floater turns Hopping logs & up rock ledges Jumping gaps, ditches & ruts Using a kicker to jump obstacles Riding over whoops These were put together from a wide variety of sources, including tips from the masters of endurocross and extreme enduro riding: Graham Jarvis, Chris Birch, Jonny Walker, David Knight, Taddy Blazusiak, Dougie Lampkin and Andreas Lettenbichler - may their names and bikes be blessed forever, amen. .
  21. Chris669

    Tips for off road riding

    Well i went for a short trip with my new tyres which where so much better,im still lacking confidence,i hit one bit of sandy area and the bars nearly turned 90 degrees in part of it and nearly dropped me.it was half way through it,i was keeping the power on but not too fast,i just cant hit it too fast,i dont mind falling at 40kph but 60-70plus too scarey. if i fall i wreck my bike and cant afford time of work,this is my main fear but i want to drive with no worries on these surfaces. i know this is maybe what it takes?,i went through it again standing up and was much better ,i hugged the tank and tryed to relax my hands on the bars. the road there and back was dirt and gravel,see pics,it felt scarey turning on the corners and my top speed was about 80kph but mostly 50-60,what sort of speed can you be safe on theses roads?Theres a road like this to my work and the limit is 110kph,i would love to drive to work but the thought of cars behind me and cruising at 60kph is embarrassing. So my main question is what speeds and surfaces do you ride off road?what speed would you do on the pics ive shown,people say keep the power on but then you build up too much speed
  22. hey everyone, i am a pretty new rider, im 6'2 260lbs, i just started 3 years ago. i am 22 and i started on a 1995 xr250 and now i have a 2005 crf 450r. i wanted to see what other people thought about what bikes are better for guys my size. also what kinda parts should i get for my bike. and finally is there any special riding styles or technic i should try to focus on?