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Found 104 results

  1. I have been dealing with a clutch issue and pulled the stator and flywheel to remove a few clutch components. I am reassembling them now and I was wondering if I need to set the stator at a specific setting in regards to the TDC. The manual I have says nothing on the subject other than alignment the marks on the stator and the casing. I am hoping I did create a new problem while fixing an older one. For clarification, my 2001 YZ250 says basically, align the marks then adjust to 0.007 BTDC (using a dial indicator and rest). I don't know where to set it on the RM 125. I don't imagine it would be the same. Thanks
  2. I have a RM125 and it has had consistent clutch issues since I purchased it. It seemed like the cable was worn. You couldn't adjust it properly where the lever had a slight looseness and a slight two finger pull engaged the clutch. You had to pull the lever all the way to the bar. I replaced the clutch cable without much improvement. I just installed a new cable(in case the previous new cable was bad) and new plates. Still the same problem. I am about the tear into the engine and take the basket off looking for some type of damage. Maybe start replacing components if I can't find some sort of witness mark. Any suggestions before I spend more money would be very helpful.
  3. So let me explain this one 🙃a bolt was stuck in the linkage, tried every way possible. (Even cutting it with the wrong tool) before giving it to a friend to do it properly. The link has a deep cut in the side. Would this affect anything at all? Should I sand it as smooth as I could? I don’t wanna spend $60 on a new one.
  4. I am looking to buy a 2002 RM 125 crankcase for a project bike, but can't seem to find any online. I was wondering if anyone knows where I could find one at the moment. (If anyone has one in decent condition they would like to sell I would also be interested)
  5. So I recently rebuilt my RM125’s clutch. I did everything to spec and made sure everything was good and fine in the clutch. I put it back together and it seemed all good until I kicked it over. It started idling extremely high. Like WAYY too high, it sounded like one second more and it was gonna explode. So I went into the carburetor, checked ALL of the jets, made sure they were clear. I noticed my idle in the carburetor was too open. So I adjusted it to spec. I kicked it over again and it’s still idling too high. The air boots are tight, not ripped, no broken seals. The carburetors jets are clear, the idle of the carburetor has been fixed and everything else seems as it should, so what can be the issue here?
  6. So my bike quit running, did a quick compression test and could only get 115 or 110 after a bunch of kicks, tore it down and found a chipped piston. Took off the cylinder and noticed my power valves look crazy. Are they completely shot?
  7. Does this look too lean, just rebuilt my top end heat cycled it a couple times then took it out for a rip. It has a pro curcuit platinum pipe and fmf shorty on it plus v force reeds.
  8. Hey guys just picked up a 03 and the air box is cracked with a hole......what are the other years that will fit? thanks
  9. Hey guys just picked up an 03 rm125 and the cylinder top vent union (as Suzuki calls it) is busted off. Is it pressed in and plastic? I’m hoping I can just thread a screw in and tap it out. thanks
  10. Hi I am having am issue reassembling my son’s rear tire. There seems to be a lot of movement left to right along the axel . Looks like I installed all the parts along the axel but it does not seem right that the tire can move along the axel. Maybe someone can see an obvious issue.
  11. I just recently bought what I was told in 1989 RM 125 the pictures look the same tore down the motor and the power exhaust power valves look like they came out of a 80 the head says 125 cm just trying to figure out where can I get parts and if it's able cuz the part number on the engine casing came back as a 04 I was told it was 89 and some of the parts seem like they're different years I wonder if it's all bad about to send you pictures if you want just need some help
  12. Trying to remove the flywheel on my 79 Rm125 so I can change the crank seal and I’m just wondering if there’s any way to remove without having to purchase a special tool, and if not can anyone point me in the right direction on what I need/where to get it
  13. I purchased a 2001 RM125 for my son to replace his 2006 RM85. The bike ran fine, but seemed low on power. The power valves were sticking. I replaced the worn out piston and the power valves because grooves were worn in them and I believe they were hanging up. I inspected the reeds and they are fine. Connecting rod end play was fine and the crank turned smooth. The bike runs fine, I tuned the carb, but it does not have a "hit" like a similar year YZ125. My son complains that is does not have the "wheelie" power like his RM85 had. I rode it and it screams at top end, but the mid range is mild. Is this the way the 2001 RM125s were, or should it power wheelie in the midrange like a 2001 YZ125 does?
  14. Hello! Which year producted 14 mm diameter pin, the RM 125 pistons? Who produced without exhaust bridge port pistons? Thanks the helpness! Best regards!
  15. Hey guys, newbie here. I have been trawling through thumper talk for years for help and info reading through others forums. I decided to start a profile as I have just picked up a little 1992 Suzuki RM125 for a lockdown project over the coming weeks. The bike is in usual rough condition, plenty of stripped bolts, elcectrical tape/cable ties, evidence of zero maintenance over the last 10 years. On the plus side the tyres are next to new & the engine/motor seems to be pretty strong top&bottom end wise. I have a problem where just after the power valve opens, there is a bad surging/spluttering/coughing that doesn’t clear out. The bike seems to be overfuelling and running way too rich with trails of premix behind me. Now when I first got the bike the carb was messed up (Mikuni TM 35) it started first kick with or without choke & wouldn’t idle, still had good lower/mid power but stuttering up top. I’ve dropped the pilot jet from 50 to 45 and have the needle clip in the 2nd position, the bike starts and idles perfect now and crisp up until the top end where it still splutters. There is a 330 main jet in at the minute but I have tried as low as a 270 and the bike is still crazy rich with the nasty splutter/smoke. Crank seals are okay, not loosing any transmission oil. Reeds are perfect. Not sure what else to check? Im thinking it might be an electrical problem instead of overfuelling. I bought a new spark plug & swapped the coils from my dads RMX250 & it seems a little better but maybe it’s in my head. I think it’s not sparking up in the high rpm to burn off the fuel? It does kind of feel like a rev limiter kicks in just as the power valve opens. Could it be the CDI unit? I’m completely stumped. Hopefully someone can help me out. Thanks folks :)
  16. I was building a 2nd engine for my 2002 Suzuki RM125 with a Wiseco Crankshaft and Wiseco Piston Kit. I was following the OEM Shop Manual: 99011-36F52-03A. As I was tightening the fasteners to bring the casings together in a cross-bolt pattern I hear a loud pop right at the final moment. It wasn't my first engine build and I've heard it before. So I inspected the casing to look for cracks. There were none. I "bench tested" rotated the transmission as per the manual's instructions. I shifted the gears on the (bench test) as I rotated the counter and main shafts. Every test went as it was supposed to. Installed the rest of the components as per the OEM Manual. As in past experience I checked to make sure the PC#24 and PC#9 of the SHIFT GEAR diagram were aligned properly. Anyway, After installing the Engine in the frame. I couldn't kick start the bike, so I tried to do a roll start. The bike would go into 1st and shift to 2nd but would not shift to 3rd. So I removed the engine and checked my all the possible easy to view trouble shooting that I could observe. Not any obvious fix could be made. I thought to myself. #4 transmission gear OEM part #24251-43D20. I bought one (NOS) at a good price on Ebay. The ad title had the part number correct but when I received the part it had 24251-43D00 on the actual package. I side by side (laid a older gear) the gears together to compare them. Slight difference in design but same size horizontal and vertical and teeth NT:19. As to how the gears were installed the design difference would not create any interference hence the (bench test) was "SAT". I have not taken the engine back apart to see if I did any damage to the shift fork i.e. snapped/bent or the dog-eye at the point where it fits into PC#7 Shift Drum might have snapped. Why haven't I taken it apart? I re-installed my original OEM Engine with a new OEM Brand Piston and it runs great. Call me lazy!!! Motox367, Smoking 2's and mlatour do you guys have any other possible solutions for me to check. This is a every single transmission part is brand spanking new installation too...
  17. Need to find correct year. Found this on the interwebs, can anyone confirm it’s validity? http://www.oem-cycle.com/SUZUKIRM125BIKEID.shtml
  18. Is there other good places to find project bikes other than Craigslist, Offerup and FB Marketplace? I am looking for 2strokes frome the year 2000 or newer. Yamaha, Suzuki, kawasaki, Honda, KTM ect.
  19. Hey guys Just picked up a 1980 or 79 RM 125. It's pretty crusty. Breaking it down now and assesing the situation. Needs quite a bit, but it does run. I wrote down a list of stuff so far I will need. Check out the attached picture. Tank was from something else, plastics are an assortment, no silencer. Also can someone confirm the stampings it dosent seem to align with the OEM suzuki chart. I think it's an 80 but they switched over the stampings that year so I am not sure. Engine RM125-116379 Frame RM125-116379 Looking forward to doing some vintage events on it!
  20. Hi The sprocket in my sons 1990 rm125 has side to side play. Doesn’t seem right. I compared it to a parts diagram and looks right. On top of that the sprocket as it turns is hitting the chain buffer Any suggestions? thanka
  21. Hi there any ideas or help please my cylinder head inner o ring keeps melting any ideas why?
  22. So, my VForce reeds chipped apart and I’m switching back to Boyeson. I bought the stock reed cage for my bike for the Boyeson reeds, I can’t find any gasket replacements for my stock reeds, only for aftermarket reed cages such as VForce. Am I able to use an VForce gasket to connect the reed cage to the engine? Thanks!
  23. Look for some suggestions on repairing the Stripped male threads on the studs that clamp the front axle. As of know my thinking is to rethread it with the slightly smaller SAE threads and new bolt size. My guess is the previous owner overtightened and stripped them out. They were super loose when I loosened them when I changed the front wheel bearings.
  24. Hey guys I’m looking for a manual for my 2001 rm125k1 part # 99011-36F50-01A and all I can find is year 2000. I think power valve is different. Weird I can’t find a 2001.
  25. Hi, does anyone have a good video or instructions with photos etc, for install the power valve agitator, thank you!
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