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Showing results for tags 'Racetech'.
Found 6 results
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Hi all. 2017 AER sxf 450 I just bought some race tech gold valves and I'm instantly regretting it. Worst instructions I have ever seen and you have to drill holes in the valves. At the price they charge they should come ready for your bike. Cheap move on their part if you ask me. Not like most people have a 1.3mm drill bit handy! Would be nice if the shims were stacked for you but I guess that's part of the fun. I got three bags full of shims. It would be nice if they labelled them compression or rebound etc to get you started, but no. Just some random codes. So. How do you read the shim sizes. Which number is the width height bore etc... and why are some only listed with two numbers? For example. .15x30 .15x28 .15x20x8 Thanks in advance
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I recently bought a used yz250 that has Race Tech Gold Valves installed in the forks and rear shock. It is currently setup for a 200lbs rider and I need to set it up for my weight (160lbs). I know when you purchase a set of Gold Valves it comes with a DVS (Digital Valving Search) code to see all the specs for your weight and riding style, the code is only good for one setup. How do I figure out my Valving? Any info is appreciated!
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I am currently in the middle of installing goldvalves on my 19 crf450r. I feel like the instructions are unclear "at least to me".. For the record im very mechanically inclined btw. So, i built the low speed valve stack, and the compression stack and those two are correct. As per the valve stack build sheet, it looks like im building a single stage compression stack. Based off of the original valve/stack build i dont have enough washers following the racetech instructions. If anybody notices anything that looks funky call it out! I just hate to have to redo all of this. I know i should have took it to the shop, just trying to save 600$ in labor and shop supplies. -
Hey guys, I've got a question for the Suspension guys. So my 19 crf450r forks are SHOT. They've been leaking for months, and i was pretty careless about them. The bushings have so much play that I can wiggle the fork tube.. yea... so! I'm going to rebuild them and want a plush(er) ride. Going through the race tech website I noticed type 1,2,3 gold valves. I plan on doing the rebound and compression.. This is gonna be strickly a track bike, im a c class rider but I feel in the next year or 2 I could hang with b class guys, the stock honda Suspension with a few hours on it was really really harsh for me. I weigh 185lbs give or take 5 lbs, Im looking for the Cadillac of Suspension "which is unrealistic" haha with enough bottoming out resistance. Oh and the rear shock feels great for now, but eventually I will rebuild the rear with racetech parts Question is, what valves do you think i should go with? What weight of fluid Don't know much about Suspension in general but I've replaced fork seals. Sorry for the ramble!
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Im 6'3"/230lbs and I ride a '17 DR650 with an Acerbis 5.3 gal tank. I ride quite aggressively offroad and plan to really load this bike up for long trips on road as well. Obviously I'm doing some suspension work among other things. Racetech's online calculator suggested I run 0.74kg/mm up front and 8.6kg/mm on the shock. I ordered the 8.6 for the rear along with a gold valve kit, but noticed the 0.80kg/mm springs for the forks on Procycle's site. So I ordered them and some cartridge emulators too. I figured they wouldnt be THAT much firmer than the suggested 0.74s that were suggested, but even more capable of handling my weight and style. (I may carry a pillion for short trips into town too ~130lbs). Now that I'm crunching the numbers, of course after paying duty, shipping, and the exchange rate to Canada, it seems the 0.80s and even the 0.74s may have been overkill. Anybody with experience with these heavier spring rates? Am I best to just bite the bullet and get some 0.74s as suggested? Would dialing back the preload on the emulator valve spring from the suggested 4 turns to say 3.5 or even 3 remedy a slightly too firm fork spring? I have the plate with the 4 holes installed and I may run the suggested 15w fork oil to help with rebound with that mega spring. Thanks in advance.
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I just purchased a 02 cr250r. I’m 225lbs do I swapped the fork springs from a .42 to racetech .46. When compressing the forks off the bike they felt no different. On the track, they were so soft I had a very hard time riding. Now I did the same swap on my old rm125 but also replaced the seals and fork oil. The RM was night and day difference when riding. Is the issue I maybe racetech sent me the wrong springs? Or is it more of old oil issue? I would assume even if the Cr has old oil the spring swap would still be a big improvement but I could be wrong. Thanks!
