Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Suspension'.
-
I have a 2018 YZ250X. As I understand it, as a "cross country" bike, the YZ250X is meant for hare scramble and GNCC type racing. While I have done neither, I believe that means it is intended for a bit more wide open, faster terrain, including some MX track possibly thrown in. I am not doing much riding like that. Depending on who I am riding with, I am increasingly finding myself on either i) tight to flowly single track or ii) more technical and rocky terrain. In neither case am I going super fast nor doing much if any jumping. The primary work my suspension needs to do on the single track is to keep traction over the many roots. On the rocky terrain, keeping traction on rocky ascents and descents. I had my suspension tuned by a reputable local tuner for my weight (175 lb naked) and that seemed to be a nice improvement over stock. Then two things have caused me to wonder if my setup is what I need: 1. I took a class with Meg "Braap" and, watching me on the suspension loading drills, she thought my suspension might be too stiff; 2. I rode a buddy's KTM and was surprised at how plush it was. I found myself wondering: "If KYB is supposed to be so great, and so much better than on a KTM, is there something I am missing?" Hence my question... For riding a YZ250X on single track and some of what I guess can be called enduro, should I setup the KYB suspension much softer. How would I know and what's the best way to go about it if so without ruining the sag, etc.? Any advice is much appreciated!
- 16 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Yz250X
- Suspension
- (and 1 more)
-
I have a 1997 cr125r and was just trying to see my options on a fork swap. I got the bike for a steal but the front end is trashed. The steering stops are destroyed, forks scratched, seals blown, bolts broke, and lugs smashed. Id imagine im not the first to try this so if there is an easy swap with a newer 250r I'd love to hear it. If it isn't so easy no big deal First post so sorry if i messed something up Thanks
-
0 reviews
These shocks were bought originally for a1979 CR125R(Red Rocket). Length = 17.5"(still need to measure) Dual rate spring system using crossover spacers & easily adjustable by removing or adding spacers of different thickness. I used them for 2 seasons motocrossing this bike. I then stopped racing motocross and put them on a 1978 XL-250S, 1st year of the 23" front wheel. Showa Twin shock technology wasn't so good, but according to Gils Vallenthorpe, Honda's rear long travel twin shock geometry was about as good as you could get for the time. These shocks actually worked well on the XL-250S, especially for woods riding. Next these shocks made it to a highly modified 75'CR250M with a Kawasaki KL-250 motor. Once again, worked very well considering, this bike was made from a bunch of left over parts. After years of nonuse, I serviced the shocks and installed them on the present bike 1979 XL125S. Use this bike as play bike & vintage play motocross. The shocks work well and have held up excellently over the many years and applications I have put them through. -
1 review
Converts stock OEM floating piston with convention bladder system found on other bikes Greatly reduces friction caused by the stock floating piston Increases volume, giving the shock a plusher, more linear feel Greatly increases dampening consistency and life of the shock, reducing early wear -
1 review
Tamer’s new Rear Holeshot Hookup starting device is the perfect addition to the Front Holeshot Hookup for the ultimate holeshot. Accompanied by the front device, the rear device together completely immobilizes the suspension making the bike rigid for the start ensuring that all transfer of power and energy is used to move the bike forward, so there is no energy loss of power in the suspension as in a bike without a rear starting device. This concept works excellent in all conditions from dry slick to tacky to concrete. HOW DOES THIS WORK: The Tamer Rear Holeshot Hookup works in 2 stages. STAGE 1 - When you are ready to start, you hold the front brake, apply the throttle and let out the clutch until it begins to engage or "chatter". Without a rear device, the rear of the bike raises up during this time and when you leave the gate, the rear has to settle back down and this absorbs energy from the motor that could be going towards forward motion. With the Tamer rear Holeshot Hookup, the rear of the bike is not allowed to raise up during take off ensuring that all energy produced by the engine is transferred to a forward motion. This equals 3 to 4 tenths of a second. STAGE 2 - Without the device, the rear of the bike has raised up, you dump the clutch to take off and the rear shock settles down and by doing this, you preload the rear shock and when the rear tire makes contact with the gate, the shock rebounds and the rear tire looses traction with the ground. With the Tamer Holeshot Hookup installed, the bike is already settled down and when the rear tire makes contact with the start gate, it releases the latching system and drives the rear tire into the ground without loosing any traction. This can equal 4 to 5 tenths of a second. All in all, this action translates into a full bike length advantage out of the gate over the others without a starting device. The Tamer Rear Holeshot Hookup is a bolt-on system and will attach to any stock and most aftermarket linkages available. The latch system attaches to your OEM shock bolt. -
1 review
The best possible suspension set-up for each track is most often what decides the winner. The PODIUM® RC3 gives riders unsurpassed suspension performance along with the ability to fine tune to the perfect setting quicker and easier than ever before. FOX's proprietary external adjustments allow riders to independently dial in the optimum amount of high- and low-speed compression, rebound, and bottom-out control, completely independent of each other. -
1 review
PRODUCT DETAILS Includes: -SP Fork Revalving -SP Midvalve Mods -SP Polished Fork Springs -SP Shock Revalving -SP Shock Spring. The Weekend Warrior kit will get your bike re-valved and sprung to suit each individual rider, and will have your bike balanced and give you confidence, give us a call to get your custom suspension set up. -
4 reviews
Fork Service $115 Includes complete disassembly of inner cartridges and outer fork tubes, cleaning, inspection and reassembly. Upon inspection, worn items will be replaced and charged out accordingly. Only OEM products are used. Springs, oil or other performance items needed will be additional. SHOCK SERVICE $95 Includes complete disassembly of shock including seal head, cleaning, inspection and reassembly. Upon inspection, worn items will be replaced and charged out accordingly. Only OEM products are used. Spring, oil or other performance items will be additional. FORK REVALVE $195 After speaking with you and determining what you are looking for as far as bike personalization, we will change valving, springs and other components as necessary to give you the ride you are looking for. Includes complete disassembly of inner cartridges and outer fork tubes, cleaning, inspection and reassembly. Upon inspection, worn items will be replaced and charged out accordingly. Only OEM products are used. Springs, oil and other components that are needed to achieve proper setup will be charged out accordingly. SHOCK REVALVE $185 After speaking with you and determining what you are looking for as far as bike personalization, we will change valving, springs and other components as necessary to give you the ride you are looking for. Includes complete disassembly of shock including seal head, cleaning, inspection and reassembly. Upon inspection, worn items will be replaced and charged out accordingly. Only OEM products are used. Springs, oil or other components needed to achieve proper setup will be charged out accordingly. CRF STEERING STABILIZER REVALVE $80 Increase the effectiveness of the stock stabilizer. We will revalve in a more progressive style and replace the used oil giving the bike more stability at all speeds. It also makes adjustments to the clicker more noticeable. CRF STEERING STABILIZER SERVICE $45 This stabilizer does not hold very much oil and it is constantly working, so it is important to keep the oil fresh to keep it working properly. Stock suspension that comes on today’s motorcycle is made with very good components. With such items as high tech coatings, titanium springs and oversized bladder caps now coming stock on some models, you have an excellent base to build high quality suspension. The problem remains that stock suspension comes with a general setting to work adequately for anyone who may purchase a motorcycle, from the 280lb trail rider, to the 150lb freestyle rider doing back flips. The suspension does not come set up specifically for your weight or the type of riding you do. That’s where we can help. After talking with you, we can determine what type of set up you are personally looking for. Whether it be for the woods, desert, motocross, supercross, arenacross, worcs, supermoto, flat track, hare scrambles, motocross, enduro, etc. We have a set up that will work for you. -
0 comments
-
0 comments
Pics are from before I put any aftermarket parts on. Suspension is amazing and has great rebound no problems there. Engine runs really well and has no problem getting over jumps and around berms fast enough. A lot of power in the middle to top but you also get that pop up in the low end. Aftermarket part setup: Titanium Procircuit valves and springs, Weisco Elite Pistion, FMF 4.1 RCT Blue Anodized with FMf Titanium Megabomb Plus header, Hinson BTL Slipper Clutch, Boyessen Supercooler, Cycra Plastic Kit, a lot of other stuff -
0 comments
-
-
5 comments
2018 EO 140 KIT WITH CAM AND YOSH PIPE -
0 comments
-
-
-
0 comments
Pumpkin powered people eater. -
0 comments
Awesome, with a few upgrades a really killer platform. Despite my Supermoto aspirations, I'm a big fan of the L's air cooling and electric start over the more powerful R. So far -Desert Tank -FMF full Exhaust -Pro-taper Bars -Performance rear shock -Custom Baja cage (more similar to stunt cage) Soon to be installed (already purchased) -Kenhin FRC MX flatslide pumper carb (41mm) -4.8 springs & 15w fork oil Hopefully mods to come -Fork Brace -Ducati 999 oil cooler -Beringer Brakes -Steel braided brake lines -
-
2 comments
It has a very neutral chassis, turns very well but doesn't give much up in stability. The power is very linear and easy to use. If you wan't a hard-hitting 2 stroke, this isn't your bike. Even with the aggressive map switch and the powervalve adjuster turned in, it much more mellow than my Yz. Although the power may not be exciting, it's perfect for gnarly technical terrain. Stock forks were harsh on square-edge obstacles. The Pressure springs(small spring in the top of the fork) are known to be to stiff for most offroad riding. I had them changed out when the forks were revalved. E-start works flawlessly and starts the bike within a couple seconds when cold. Ergo's feel good to me...at 6'1", I was worried that it would feel to small to me, but that's not the case. The rear brake lever is a little low for most people, but I actually prefer it that way and it's adjustable anyway. Brakes themselves feel good, the front in particular is very strong. I don't feel they give up much to the Brembo's on the Ktm's. 40 hour update: replaced the stock rear tire within 20 hours and did the front at about the 35 hour point. I now have a tubliss front and rear, with a new rim in the front because of bad crash I had. In that crash, I also smashed the pipe, split a radiator hose, twisted both radiators, and popped the preload adjusters out of both forks. Beta fixed the forks free of charge, so no complaints there. Separate from that crash, the stock map switch is busted and I blew the fuse for the e-starter, although it blew in extremely wet conditions. The most likely culprit is the horn, it's a pretty common issue that's easy to fix. Also, the stock plastic is extremely brittle and easy to crack. -
0 comments
Not too much grunt from down low. But otherwise nice bike so far... -
-
Race sag is the distance the suspension sags under the combined weight of the bike and rider from its fully extended (topped out, no load) position. If your race sag is correct, your suspension is in the middle of its range, where it can handle the widest range of riding conditions without topping or bottoming out. For most riders, a race sag of 90-100 mm translates to the correct preload for dynamic conditions. Static sag is the distance the suspension sags under the bikes weight alone, without a rider, from its fully extended position. Once you get your race sag correct, the static sag will tell you whether or not you have the correct spring for your riding weight. So always check static sag after setting your race sag, because the preload adjustment affects both. STEP 1 => Put your bike on a stand, and measure the vertical distance from the rear axle to a spot on the rear fender. Record this value as M0… STEP 2 => Take your bike off the stand, put on your riding gear, take a standing position, and measure again. Record this value as M1… STEP 3 => Subtract M1 from M0… this is your race sag. If it’s between 90 and 100mm, skip to Step 5. If not, put your bike on a stand, lubricate the threads on the body of the shock, and proceed to Step 4. STEP 4 => If your race sag in Step 3 was significantly less than 90 mm, decrease the preload by moving the rings up the shock body (ccw). If it’s significantly more than 100 mm, increase preload by moving rings down shock body (cw)… Repeat Steps 2 through 4 until race sag is between 90 and 100mm, then continue with Step 5. STEP 5 => With your race sag now correct, and your bike off the stand, measure again, but this time with the bike under its own weight. Record this value as M2… STEP 6 => Subtract M2 from M0… this is your static sag. If it’s between 25 and 35mm, your preload and spring rate are correct. Take your bike out for a test ride, then come back to this forum, and do “Adjust Your Dampening.” If your static sag is not between 25 and 35mm, proceed to Step 7… STEP 7 => If your static sag is less than 25 mm with the correct race sag, your spring is probably too soft for your riding weight. What happened is this: to get your race sag correct, you set the preload higher than it would have been with the correct (stiffer) spring. So the bike sags less than the recommended value under its own weight. If your static sag is more than 35mm with the correct race sag, your spring is probably too stiff for your riding weight. What happened is this: to get your race sag correct, you set the preload lower than it would have been with the correct (softer) spring. So the bike sags more than the recommended value under its own weight. In either case, go to www.racetech.com, and checkout the recommended spring rates for your bike and riding weight. Buy the spring and install it, then recheck your race and static sag, and adjust as necessary. When you’re done, get in touch -- we’ll go for a ride…
-
Hayden Enterprises Factory Connection Suspension Revalve
thumper_racer posted a product in Suspension Tuners
19 reviews
GENERAL INFORMATION Suspension revalving by Factory Connection. -
3 reviews
The Pro Circuit Link Arm was developed and designed to improve the bikes stability and weight balance front to rear while retaining cornering capabilities They are also more durable and cosmetically appealing than the stock units
