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Found 6,233 results

  1. I recently bought a 2017 rmz 250 and it won’t run, the bike will start up first or second kick, run for 30 seconds then shut off and I have no clue what it could be any help is appreciated thanks
  2. So I have been riding for some time and am wondering if I should keep my current bike (2001 kx125 it has boysen carbon fiber reeds, Procircuit full exhaust with r304 sillencer, revalved suspension, and the typical woods bike accessory bark busters, flywheel weight etc. But I'm not sure if I should send my motor out to eric gorr and get it punched to a 144 and ported for low and mid. Or get a 2004 rm250 with a full procircuit exhaust and revalved suspension as my new woods race bike. What would you guys suggest?
  3. Hey everyone, please bear with me here...So i just purchased a street legal 2002 suzuki dr200s from a "mutual" friend here in massachusetts, and im thinking ive gotten myself into a big pickle here. The bike was advertised as off road only as the title and reg could not be found, so i really didn't buy this having any plans to put on the road. For what i paid its a great trail bike and i figured if i felt like it i would try to apply for a new title with the mass saftey dept.(i know i know. Never buy a street bike without a title, but i didnt think this would happen). After doing some research ive found some unsettling things. The kid i bought it from claimed he bought it from a 57 year old woman who bought it from the orig. Owner in 2010(it came with a copy of the original title, sales books, and a blank bill of sale supposably from her) and that she was suppose to be getting him a title but never got back to him, and that she claimed her registration was in the storage compartment but wasnt. After doing some research on her, i found that she passed away this last may, only 4 DAYS prior to when the kid's facebook says HE purchased the bike. However the bill of sale that was given to me was written out 14 days AFTER her death. I contacted the kid and mentioned this to him and he replied "thats probably why she never got back to me". OBVIOUSLY something isnt right here, and im thinking he knows more than he's telling me, even though he sold it as is with no title. Her obituary noted that she left behind several children, siblings, and a fiance. Now if im correct on my estate laws, if she had no will, only direct family/ heirs of the deceased can go to probate court and apply for a title to a vehicle, and i deffinetly dont think it could be done in 4 days. If i had to guess, it seems the fiance or someone sold the bike before the family/estate could get a hold of it. It doesn't show up as stolen with the police or any online check, SO what do i do? Again its not really getting a title that concerns me, but how do i find out if the bike was sold legally or not? Can i still get a title for this thing if it was/wasnt? even if it needs to be done in another state that doesnt require a title, is it do-able? Could there be some kind of hold on the vin? Am i going to get myself into any legal trouble by trying to title it, or even having it in general? I thought of reaching out to her relatives as i found them all on facebook but i dont want to be disrespectful in such a hard time and im afraid it will bring me trouble. Any advise is MUCH appreciated.
  4. I have a 1992 rm250 and I need a new exhaust , but I can’t find one for a 1992 so I was wandering what other years are compadable with eachother
  5. Hi guys, just looking for a new set of graphics and plastics for my bike, I have a 2012 ktm sx125. Does anyone have a specific place they aware by for graphics? Does anyone the the best place to get graphics? Thanks guys.
  6. I’m new to this site but I’ve seen some other posts on here about SP370s that have been very helpful. My dad has had a ‘78 SP370 for over 17 years and he’s never heard it run. I wanted to get it running so I first cleaned out the tank which didn’t have that much rust but some really old gas. The I check ed the valves(they were in spec), set the points(they were a little off), and took off the carb to clean it out. The carb was pretty plugged up so I soaked it in chem dip over night and blew the parts out with air. When I put the carb back on, the bike started up on the 3rd kick. After a few seconds of reving it I tried to let it idle. It died and I couldn’t get it to start again. I’m stumped on what it could be. I have good spark, compression and the carb seems to be fine. Any ideas?
  7. Need help or advice on picking a bike. My last bike was an 04crf250. So been off the bike a few years. My dilemma is a 2009 rmz450 or a 2012 kx450f or maybe even a 2014 yzf450. RMZ is from a dealership. Was owned and maintained by an apprentice who works there at the shop so I'm sure maintainence was kept up on it, however the guy is a racer so that bike has been through a lot however taken care of. Guy said the bike practically has a new engine and does have some mods, fmf full system, rekluse clutch and forks have been revalved for I believe 180 or 200lb rider, I am 150. And other small stuff. I think price OTD I can get it for is $3K or $$3200. 2012 kx450f. Don' know much about but seems bike has been taken care of decently. Has KYB suspension. No mods really. Just hand guards and pro taper handle bar. And that's really it. Guy said he is pretty firm on $3800 but I'm sure will take $3600 And then there is a 2014 YZF450 that I've had my eye on but don' really want a Yamaha unless someone can change my mind. Looks like it' in decent condition and guy is asking $3700. Any pros or cons to these bikes or personal experience that you guys can share? Thanks!
  8. Should I buy this bike my uncle just sold one and said in good condition they’re worth from $600 to $1200 and if I could get it for $300 it would be a good deal.
  9. Hi everyone, ive got an eighties PE 175 I’ve recently restored, which I’m running silkolene comp 2 premix which is ok, but I don’t think it’s really any good, although everyone raves how good it is for older dirtbikes. I was thinking of bel ray or Castro’s as I ran these on other bikes when I was younger ( more for the smell) I’m rebuilding the engine later in the year, and if it’s anything like the bodges I seen on the rest of the bike it will all need doing so I wanna run it something that wont kill everything. Thanks in advance
  10. Hey all , away on vacation and want to buy some hand guards for the drz while I’m out here options for the bars that actually mount are 7/8 and 1 - 1/8 since I’m not near the bike I’m not sure which size I need I’m running stock bars on a 2017 drz400 s any input is appreciated as always
  11. Okay so i bought a 2017 rmz450 last year and have never owned or messed with air forks but came into it open minded. After dicking with the front end for months and the fork seal blowing causing me to frame rake and wreck on a 70ft finish line jump. Ive decided to get the conversion kit to spring with my weight springs, and revalve on forks and rear spring while im off hurt and curious if anyone else has swapped or have info on whats better for the front forks? Ive tinkered with them on my track and cant seem to find a inbetween. That and i have the factory connection pump with the no air loss adapter and it would read different everytime i had set them and then checked them.
  12. I’m looking at this 1974 TS125 on Craigslist and I asked the guy for the vin so I could check it because he doesn’t have the title. But he said there isn’t a vin only a model number. Is this true? He sent me a picture of the tag on the steering stem. Did motorcycles not get vins until a certain year?
  13. Hey guys, just asking if I can put a earlier z400 head on a later z400. My friend has a 2013 that needs a head but he wants only 600 for it.......
  14. 1. Compression & rebound are pretty self-explanatory. Compression is when the suspension collapses/compresses and rebound is when it extends/rebounds. Most dirt/trail/enduro/mx bikes have adjustable (to a degree) suspensions. Generally the external adjustments include: low-speed compression (on forks & shocks), high-speed compression (usually only shocks), low-speed rebound (on forks & shocks) and spring preload (on forks & shocks). Internally damping is adjustable via shim stacks, bleed ports, pistons, etc… Generally low-speed compression and rebound are adjusted with what are known as "clickers" (on the DRZ they look like flat-headed screws, with only the head visible). When you adjust them, you move a needle (right in image below) that sits within an orifice (left in image below). Under low-speed movement of the suspension, some of the fluid inside moves through these orifices. By adjusting the clicker "IN" (generally clockwise) you partially close off that orifice. The more you adjust "IN" the more it closes the orifice. By closing the orifice, it takes more energy for the fluid to pass through because essentially you are making the orifice or hole smaller. So for compression it makes the suspension collapse slower (feels firmer) and for rebound it makes the suspension extend slower. The inverse is true when you adjust the clicker "OUT". It's important to note, that the range of these clickers is limited. If you find yourself at the limits of their adjustment, then you need to revalve the suspension. Spring rate, is a way to quantify a spring and it simply means the amount of force it takes to compress the spring x amount of inches. So a stock DRZ400S/SM rear spring is 5.5 kg/mm, meaning it takes 5.5 kg of force to compress the spring 1 mm. If the spring is linear, then it'll take an additional 5.5 kg to compress another mm and so on (11 kg for 2 mm, 16.5 kg for 3 mm, etc…). 2. At 230 lbs you need firmer springs both for the shock and forks. That'll run you around $200, no adjustment will compensate for springs that are way too soft for your weight. And no, adding more preload is not the answer… Then as far as re-valving, if you're a DIY kind of guy, you can make changes to improve the damping (I did myself). You will however need a few shims to make those changes as the stock valving is very soft.
  15. I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something. Required Tools: Set of Allen wrenches #3 Phillips screwdriver small flat head screwdriver 8 & 10 mm sockets 13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate) snap ring pliers gasket scraper compressed air Required Parts: New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00 Tube or can of RTV sealant Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil) 1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way. 2. Remove right side radiator cover. 3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic). 4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike. 5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off. 6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way. 7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below. 8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily. 9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here: 10. Remove the plastic gear. 11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here: 12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here: 13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover. 14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up. 15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect): 16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out. 17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13. 18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike. 19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly. 20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on. 21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt. 22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover. 23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant. 24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp. 25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw. 26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike. 27. You are done, go ride!
  16. EDIT "Rear hubs are all the same from 1992 to 2007 125 on up The 125s and 250s got the right hub as of 1990 but the bigger bikes didn't use them till 1992." KTM wheels FIT. I have had people asking me about this for quite some time now so I thought id throw this together. First YES KTM wheels fit. Rear hubs are all the same from 1990 to 2007 125 on up. Only difference is Cush drive or not and rim size. I now have 3 different KTM rear wheels that I run A 17” 18” and 19”. The 18” is from a 1995 LC4. The 19” is actually a tallen hub but its for a 2002 KTM 400. The 17 is from a 2004 4XX (don’t remember). I have take pics of all the different rear wheels on my bike to show. Notice that the 18” and 17” both have the cush drive hub. The spacers rotors and sprockets are all stock KTM. This is a direct bolt up fitment. Do note that the KTM rear rotor is the same size as a 400S/E 220mm. The 18” The 19” The 17”
  17. Since there is soo much talk about jetting DRZ400's with air box mods and exhaust mods I thought I would post my recent results. The mods to my new 2006 400SM went for the most part well.. Learned alot of lessons with my DRZ-400S .The mod part list is: Yoshimura 2165500-SA, DynoJet 3110.001, K&N SU-4000, assorted 4mm Allen head machine screws, and a MotoBits footpeg eliminator stolen from S model. Ebay has MotoBits kits avalible. 1. First I removed all the plastics, seat and tank; I also temporarily removed a couple of the factor zip ties to make room to work. 2. Remove TPS from carburetor, gas line; removed vacuum line from gas petcock, removed vacuum line from gas shut-off valve. 3. Removed throttle cables from carb. 4. Removed gas tank. 5. Loosened right heel guard and dismounted rear break reservoir from frame. 6. Removed bolts at lower frame holding rear fender assembly. 7. Loosened the clamp of the manifold side of the carburetor and the clamp at the rear which connects to the air-box. 8. Raise rear fender – I used an old cardboard box to hold it up in place. 9. Rotated carb and wrestled that booger and out! 10. Installed DynoJet stage two jet kit – 155 main, DynoJet needle (2nd clip from top) and slide spring – when I removed the bowl – I used a needle nose vice grips to break the screw loose – then threw the screws away and replaced them with 4mm Allen socket machine screws of the same length. 11. Drilled out idle mixture screw plug – set idle to 3 ½ turn out from bottom. 12. Re-installed carb - (Note: I also replaced the screws for the TPS with 4mm Allen head machine screws, washers and lock washers.) 13. Removed factory header, exhaust can and passenger foot pegs. 14. Installed new Yosh header pipe – left loose. 15. Separated and installed Yosh mid pipe. 16. Installed exhaust can; tossed the steel spacer and installed the new exhaust mount to the hole rear of the factory mount – I think the Yosh directions may be wrong. 17. Reattached the rear break reservoir and installed and tightened up all remaining frame and mount points, then tightened the header pipe at the engine exhaust, and reinstalled the factory heat shield to the mid pipe. 18. Cut a 3 inch square template from cardboard and drew lines on top of the air box with a grease pencil. 19. I then used a sheetrock knife heated up with a propane torch to cut the 3x3 hole in the top of the air box. 20. Removed stock air cleaner element and installed K&N filter. 21. Reinstalled tank, plactics and seat, cleaned exhaust system with Windex. 1st Test Run 22. Bike was difficult to start –needed full choke (man I should have learned from experience with the DRX 400S!) I finally got it start- but it ran like crap. 23. Run the bike up the street and promptly run out of gas. 24. Roll bike back to garage and do a visual inspection. 25. Put the vacuum line on the gas petcock 2nd Test run 26. Bike starts easily, idles wells and runs great… 27. Removed rubber inserts in footpeg, passenger strap in seat, front reflectors, trimmed rear fender and applied appropriate decals. Performed 1st Oil and Filter change (it had a 100 miles onthe bike.) If I left out some steps I apologize – but I think you can get the gist of things…
  18. 1 review

    GENERAL INFORMATION Ergonomically designed and extensively tested for the latest Suzuki models. Each seat has a special insert of flexible SaddleGel below a top layer of cushioning foam with a vinyl seat cover. The gel is a rubberlike material that stays flexible down to temperatures of -40F. The gel equalizes body weight pressure for improved comfort. Each seat features a metal plate at the back with the bike's logo. Only Suzuki Genuine Accessories badged gel seats use a standard Suzuki seat base and hardware for a perfect fit with no modifications.
  19. Just finished making the aft rack from 3/8 id stainless. Bags I sowed from 18 guage polyurethane coated fabric. Here is the full rundown of what i did. The only thing so far that i did was the airbox mod with the sewer hose to block the sound. That restored the bike from running rich to normal mayby a bit lean at 4000 feet and 90-100 degr. I felt that there was more to be done. In went the k&n su-4000 filter. Dynojet kit for the drz400s. From the kit i installed the following parts: Big spring, needle, clip for the needle. I changed the pilot jet to a 25 from stock 22,5. Installed the kientech fuel screw, and put in kientech stainles screws for the bowl. I decided to leave the stock main jet 142,5 i think. I really like the results. When i pull up the highway 5% grade to 5500 feet the bike for sure pulls stronger at a lesser throttle setting. 0 to1/4 throttle good response and pickup with only little backfire closing the throttle. 1/4 to 3/4 throttle very strong pickup especially from 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Maby a bit room for improvement about 1/4 throttle. when the needle circuit picks up at 1/4 throttle there is a tiny hesitation, maybe so little not worth mentioning. I think i have to run it a bit more to home in on it. And then figure out what to change...maybe try lowering the needle 1/2 step with the suplied spacer. From 3/4 to 1/1 throttle the bike pulls strong. So i believe the choice of main jet is fine. In the next day or so i will do a spark plug test. I left the fuel mixture screw at 1 1/2 turn.as per kientech recommend. It needed a bit more fuel from idle to 1/4 throttle so I ended up with fuel screw 2 turns out.....nice. I am in the process of taking all the covers and make a negative fiberglass mold, in which I will produce a carbon fiber replica of the original plastic cover. Have one done so far....looks nice. The pdf slide show is of the rack and bags. I welcome any questions at: ebrabaek@sbcglobal.net enjoy View attachment: erlings_thumper.pdf
  20. 0 reviews

    IDENTIFICATION Type: Cruiser Warranty (Months): 12 Revision Status: Carryover ENGINE Displacement (cc): 1783 Engine Type: V Twin Cylinders: 2 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: DOHC Carburetion Type: Fuel Injected TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Manual Number of Speeds: 5 Primary Drive System: Shaft BRAKES Front Brakes: Dual Hydraulic Disc Rear Brakes: Hydraulic Disc TIRES Front Tire(s): Dunlop 130/70 R18 M/C 63V Rear Tire(s): Dunlop 240/40 R18 M/C 79V SPECIFICATIONS Wheelbase (in / mm): 67.3 / 1710 Dry Weight (lbs / kg): N/A Fuel Capacity (gal / L): 5.2 / 19.5 Seat Height (in / mm): 27.8 / 705 Number of Seats: 2 FEATURES Tachometer: Standard Digital Instrumentation: Standard Windshield: Not Available
  21. 0 reviews

    GENERAL INFORMATION Model: Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300R Limited Edition Year: 2013 Category: Sport ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION Displacement: 1340.00 ccm (81.77 cubic inches) Engine type: In-line four, four-stroke Engine details: U-shaped cutouts in the cylinder-bore sides allow air below descending pistons to escape to adjacent cylinders to reduce internal pumping pressure and mechanical power losses. Titanium valves. Compression: 9.5:1 Bore x stroke: 96.0 x 101.0 mm (3.8 x 4.0 inches) Valves per cylinder: 4 Fuel system: Injection. Two 12-hole fine-spray injectors on each throttle body Fuel control: DOHC Ignition: Electronic ignition (transistorized) Lubrication system: Wet sump Cooling system: Liquid Gearbox: 6-speed Transmission type, final drive: Chain Driveline: Chain, RK GB50GSV Z4, 114 links CHASSIS, SUSPENSION, BRAKES AND WHEELS Front suspension: Inverted telescopic, coil spring, oil damped Rear suspension: Link type, coil spring, oil damped Front tyre dimensions: 120/70-ZR17 Rear tyre dimensions: 190/50-ZR17 Front brakes: Double disc Front brakes diameter: 310 mm (12.2 inches) Rear brakes: Single disc Rear brakes diameter: 260 mm (10.2 inches) PHYSICAL MEASURES AND CAPACITIES Weight incl. oil, gas, etc: 260.0 kg (573.2 pounds) Seat height: 805 mm (31.7 inches) If adjustable, lowest setting. Overall length: 2,190 mm (86.2 inches) Overall width: 735 mm (28.9 inches) Ground clearance: 120 mm (4.7 inches) Wheelbase: 1,480 mm (58.3 inches) Fuel capacity: 21.00 litres (5.55 gallons) OTHER SPECIFICATIONS Starter: Electric Instruments: Four analog gauges including step-motor-driven tachometer and speedometer. Round LCD panel includes clock, gear position indicator, S-DMS map indicator, odometer and dual trip meters. Engine-rpm indicator, programmable to blink or stay on between 4,000 and 11,500 rpm. Factory warranty: 12 month unlimited mileage limited warranty. Color options: Glass Sparkle Black, Pearl Glacier White
  22. 0 reviews

    GENERAL INFORMATION Model: Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300R Limited Edition Year: 2013 Category: Sport ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION Displacement: 1340.00 ccm (81.77 cubic inches) Engine type: In-line four, four-stroke Engine details: U-shaped cutouts in the cylinder-bore sides allow air below descending pistons to escape to adjacent cylinders to reduce internal pumping pressure and mechanical power losses. Titanium valves. Compression: 9.5:1 Bore x stroke: 96.0 x 101.0 mm (3.8 x 4.0 inches) Valves per cylinder: 4 Fuel system: Injection. Two 12-hole fine-spray injectors on each throttle body Fuel control: DOHC Ignition: Electronic ignition (transistorized) Lubrication system: Wet sump Cooling system: Liquid Gearbox: 6-speed Transmission type, final drive: Chain Driveline: Chain, RK GB50GSV Z4, 114 links CHASSIS, SUSPENSION, BRAKES AND WHEELS Front suspension: Inverted telescopic, coil spring, oil damped Rear suspension: Link type, coil spring, oil damped Front tyre dimensions: 120/70-ZR17 Rear tyre dimensions: 190/50-ZR17 Front brakes: Double disc Front brakes diameter: 310 mm (12.2 inches) Rear brakes: Single disc Rear brakes diameter: 260 mm (10.2 inches) PHYSICAL MEASURES AND CAPACITIES Weight incl. oil, gas, etc: 260.0 kg (573.2 pounds) Seat height: 805 mm (31.7 inches) If adjustable, lowest setting. Overall length: 2,190 mm (86.2 inches) Overall width: 735 mm (28.9 inches) Ground clearance: 120 mm (4.7 inches) Wheelbase: 1,480 mm (58.3 inches) Fuel capacity: 21.00 litres (5.55 gallons) OTHER SPECIFICATIONS Starter: Electric Instruments: Four analog gauges including step-motor-driven tachometer and speedometer. Round LCD panel includes clock, gear position indicator, S-DMS map indicator, odometer and dual trip meters. Engine-rpm indicator, programmable to blink or stay on between 4,000 and 11,500 rpm. Factory warranty: 12 month unlimited mileage limited warranty. Color options: Glass Sparkle Black, Pearl Glacier White
  23. 0 reviews

    GENERAL INFORMATION Model: Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300R Year: 2013 Category: Sport ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION Displacement: 1340.00 ccm (81.77 cubic inches) Engine type: In-line four, four-stroke Engine details: U-shaped cutouts in the cylinder-bore sides allow air below descending pistons to escape to adjacent cylinders to reduce internal pumping pressure and mechanical power losses. Titanium valves. Compression: 9.5:1 Bore x stroke: 96.0 x 101.0 mm (3.8 x 4.0 inches) Valves per cylinder: 4 Fuel system: Injection. Two 12-hole fine-spray injectors on each throttle body Fuel control: DOHC Ignition: Electronic ignition (transistorized) Lubrication system: Wet sump Cooling system: Liquid Gearbox: 6-speed Transmission type, final drive: Chain Driveline: Chain, RK GB50GSV Z4, 114 links CHASSIS, SUSPENSION, BRAKES AND WHEELS Front suspension: Inverted telescopic, coil spring, oil damped Rear suspension: Link type, coil spring, oil damped Front tyre dimensions: 120/70-ZR17 Rear tyre dimensions: 190/50-ZR17 Front brakes: Double disc Front brakes diameter: 310 mm (12.2 inches) Rear brakes: Single disc Rear brakes diameter: 260 mm (10.2 inches) PHYSICAL MEASURES AND CAPACITIES Weight incl. oil, gas, etc: 260.0 kg (573.2 pounds) Seat height: 805 mm (31.7 inches) If adjustable, lowest setting. Overall length: 2,190 mm (86.2 inches) Overall width: 735 mm (28.9 inches) Ground clearance: 120 mm (4.7 inches) Wheelbase: 1,480 mm (58.3 inches) Fuel capacity: 21.00 litres (5.55 gallons) OTHER SPECIFICATIONS Starter: Electric Instruments: Four analog gauges including step-motor-driven tachometer and speedometer. Round LCD panel includes clock, gear position indicator, S-DMS map indicator, odometer and dual trip meters. Engine-rpm indicator, programmable to blink or stay on between 4,000 and 11,500 rpm. Factory warranty: 12 month unlimited mileage limited warranty. Color options: Glass Sparkle Black, Pearl Glacier White
  24. 1 review

    IDENTIFICATION Type: Sport Warranty (Months): 12 Revision Status: Upgraded ENGINE Displacement (cc): 999 Engine Type: Horizontal In-line Cylinders: 4 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: DOHC Carburetion Type: Fuel Injected TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Manual Number of Speeds: 6 Primary Drive System: Chain BRAKES Front Brakes: Dual Hydraulic Disc Rear Brakes: Hydraulic Disc TIRES Front Tire(s): 120/70 ZR17M/C 58W Rear Tire(s): 190/50 ZR17M/C 73W SPECIFICATIONS Wheelbase (in / mm): 55.3 / 1405 Dry Weight (lbs / kg): N/A Fuel Capacity (gal / L): 4.6 / 17.5 Seat Height (in / mm): 31.9 / 810 Number of Seats: 2 FEATURES Tachometer: Standard Digital Instrumentation: Standard Windshield: Standard
  25. 1 review

    IDENTIFICATION Type: Standard Warranty (Months): 12 Revision Status: New ENGINE Displacement (cc): 645 Engine Type: V Twin Cylinders: 2 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: DOHC Carburetion Type: Fuel Injected TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Manual Number of Speeds: 6 Primary Drive System: Chain BRAKES Front Brakes: Dual Hydraulic Disc Rear Brakes: Hydraulic Disc TIRES Front Tire(s): 110/80 R19 59H Rear Tire(s): 150/70 R17 69H SPECIFICATIONS Wheelbase (in / mm): 61.4 / 1560 Dry Weight (lbs / kg): N/A Fuel Capacity (gal / L): 5.3 / 20 Seat Height (in / mm): 32.9 / 835 Number of Seats: 2 FEATURES Tachometer: Standard Digital Instrumentation: Standard Windshield: Standard
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