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Found 5 results

  1. Hi guys, I wanted to give anyone a heads up on some mods I have tried on the wp AER48 forks. Bike is a 2017 450sxf, I weigh 93kg and race mainly intermediate cross country and some b grade mx. First thing I did was a revalve. I increased the base valve stack and reduced the mid valve. After some riding I tweaked this abit by going from an 11mm clamp to a 12mm on the mid stack. I then updated the air piston and top out spring to the 2018 parts. Next stop was a krooztune mid valve piston to replace my plastic stock one. It took some convincing for them to send me one with out a bleed hole pre drilled in it. I fitted my mid valve stack that I had on the OEM piston which had 0 float, but by the following weekend I had gone back to a 11mm clamp on the mid compression stack to allow for the reduced port edge on the new alloy piston. Plenty of riding followed Then what if? I got hold of a donor set of AER cartridges from a 2017 350 which I had fitted kyb sss internals into a few years back. I disassembled the damper cartridge and air cartridge to swap them around. I had a 48mm nylon spacer made to eliminate the top out spring on the air side. I fitted the air piston (old x ring style) and air side seal head into the damper unit body with the bleed hole at the top welded up and caps changed over. This gave me air cartridge with no bypass dimple and independent positive and negative chambers. I did one track session and a xc race I didn't complete. I knew I was in trouble right at the start of the race but lessons were learned. Back to the old traditional air chamber with more riding, a 4th in the iron man open class at the Pirini 4 hour and won my intermediate class in the 3 round belray 2 hour series. More what if? Ok I thought, best of both worlds. I reduced my nylon spacer to 40mm, 12x18x40 to be exact. Under that I fitted 11x5mm cross section oring. The oring is essentially my bump stop. So we have 2018 u seal style piston with nylon stem, custom spacer and oring then seal head. Why did I remove the top out spring? Because I wanted to add preload to my air spring to eliminate the vague feeling caused by the fact that for approximately 11mm of stroke (due to the bypass dimple) the air chamber has neutral force. After doing this I refitted the unit and added a extra valve to the fork cap so I can pressurize the outer chamber. You cant achieve the same thing with the stock setup because you would be working against the top out spring and until you bottomed that out you would still technically have zero preload. FYI I don't run a top out spring in the shock. So I've done approximately 100km of trail riding with some tinkering. Running 155psi inner and 5psi outer 10 comp 16 rebound 175ml of oil. Definitely worth the effort, plenty of front end bite, I was looking for holes and it was eating them up. More refining this weekend and I'll get the data logger out again I think. There is so so so many mis perceptions around suspension function and some of it comes from guys who own big businesses. If we look at a air spring curve against our desired coil curve we see the issue isn't ramp up but in fact the flat mid stroke support which causes the fork to collapse faster which essentially makes your valving "stiffer". Shim stack A with a 4.4N spring is stiffer than shim stack A with a 5.2N spring if the same force is applied, not because it's "riding in the soft part of the stroke" but because spring rate relates to spring frequency. I checked, even with a theoretical 0psi in the outer chamber of a fork at full travel 175ml of oil (had 0psi inner) you get 45psi at the bottom of the stroke on that outer chamber, so for anyone to say coil springs dont ramp up, well they need a slap. 5psi in the outer is 48N of preload this also adds support in the flat mid stroke area. Anyway sorry for the long winded post.
  2. Does anyone have any experience putting 6th gear out of an excf450 in an sxf 450 motor. Mine is us spec 5 speed already. Thinking new barrel, shifter fork and gear wheels should do it
  3. So... Rode three motos today (practice). Bike ran perfect the entire time. Zero signs of any issue. Went to ride a fourth moto and bike won't fire. Engine turns over like normal but does not even try to start. 2018 fc250. Stock engine and electronics. No blink codes. Fuel and air filter is fine. Tried a different ECU. No change. Nothing frayed or unplugged. Fuel pump sounds as if it's priming as normal. I recently had the sub frame off to remove the shock but no wiring was detached and everything seems fine. Any thoughts on tests to run?
  4. Just wondering if anyone can help me.figure out these electrical issues I'm having with my 2016 KTM 350sxf. The bike was working fine until I washed it twice in between rides and ever since then it won't start. Every time I go to start the bike I would hear a click (probably from the relay). But i checked the battery first to be sure and its fine, I have my own charger + I took the battery to get tested, and the shop said the same thing. So on to the next step; replace the relay. $90 dollars later, a new relay + fully charged battery... and still nothing but this time there wasn't even a click or any sound at all... can someone please help me?!
  5. There is a problem with my friends 06 crf250. It will start up and idle for a little bit and then stall. Turning on the choke makes it run longer but not by much then it stalls. Also, if you give it throttle to keep it from stalling it sputter and dies. The carb has been rebuilt, also all the Jets have been cleaned along with everything else. The tank had been emptied and filled with fresh gas. What could cause this?
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