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Found 199 results

  1. I’m trying to get a seat for my wr250f but I want a sleeker more dirtbikey look and I was wondering if a seat meant for an 06yzf would fit on my 02wrf I thought they might fit because they have the same frame I think besides the 06 frame being aluminum
  2. Will this work on a 2002 wrf250?? If not what years
  3. I blew a head gasket what's the best way to make sure my head is not warped... I put it on the top of my toolbox which is fairly level and I see no wobble or no gaps... On a side note I just bought the bike went to rebuild the water pump ...noticed there was no impeller so I could only imagine how hot the bike guy from the previous owner
  4. hello, my bike reached 7100 kms, had it since 4500kms, stayed off rev limiter, oil change every 500kms, and cleaning air filter every 2-3 rides, im still a beginner rider btw, i went trough the owner manual looking at the process of doing a top end with the intention of replacing the piston soon, but i couldnt understand exactly how to know which size piston to put? im afraid to get an oem piston kit only to be not fitting due to cylinder wear, my mechanic checked the bike at 5500 kms and said that its in good shape no need to rebuild, but I plan on keeping the bike for long term, so its important to me to do preventative maintenance as well, is doing a rebuild at 7100kms an overkill?
  5. 2008 WR250F Hey Folks! I recently picked up a 2008 WR250F with the Starter removed. The previous owner told me that it was easy to put back into place. I put the Starter Motor back in, replaced the starter solenoid which was not working properly and also put back in the Bendix. Now when I press the button, the Starter Motor is turning but the Bendix is only spinning free without engaging the Motor. I assume that there is something wrong with the Bendix because it is spinning freely in both directions. I would be thankful for any help or diagnosis! Thanks alot.
  6. For anyone on the fence about buying an upgraded exhaust, I highly recommend the full FMF system on the WR250F. 2016 Yamaha WR250F FMF 4.1 exhaust and Megabomb header GYTR Comp ECU Cycra Yamaha Factory Probend CRM Racer Pack hand guards Tires: Rear IRC VE33S Gekkota Gummy Tire, Front Shinko MX216 Shorai Lithium-Iron battery ODI V2 EMIG MX lock-on grips
  7. Hi you guys! I couldnt find any info about the diffrence between the 09 and 10 yzf exhaust cam shafts, saw some cams for sale that was listed for 03-13 but read that it will only work to 09... I live in Sweden and its really hard to find cam shafts decently priced, all i could find was one from an 2010 yz250f. Will it work?
  8. Got the bike from a buddy who never started it for over 2 years so out a new plug in swapped fuel and did ultrasonic clean on injector Confirmed it has spark and the injector fires fuel engine turns over... Sometimes if it sits for a while and you hit the starter the first time it fires up for maybe a second or less then after that nothing ...you have to wait a few mins again Bike has 2000 km on it so I doubt it needs top end work done maybe a valve clearance issue I did notice oil dripping out of the airbox and upon further inspection some sprayed onto the harness and ecu... Oil was on highside but swapped out and still leaks into airbox when I attempt to start Could this be an electrical issue that someone may have experienced? Cheers
  9. Hi, just wondering if anyone has a full 6 speed transmission set laying about for a WR250F or YZFX (Not YZF) 2015 onwards? Thanks
  10. Hi, The ignition / main switch on my '04 are currently zip-tied to the handlebar. I can't figure out where it is supposed to be mounted to. I've tried looking in the service manual and online for pictures but I haven't found anything.
  11. Sup, I've recently stop my bike for 1 week for pre-summer maintenance (tire-oil-ect) temp outside was 15 degrees and bike start 2 kick easy. Now ready to run and bike wont start at all, todays with one of my friends we try the throttle screws (its was at 5 before and we kinda try adjust it to see if it would start one time 3-1/4 and other time 2) it didn't Start with 1 backfire while multipes starting try. Temperatures outside is 30 degrees. I am wondering what is the problems is it jets, intakes valves can someone helps me?
  12. The bike is a 2007 WR250f that I bought used two years ago. Its my first bike and realizing its age I expect certain things to go wrong with it and others will need refreshing. It has run very well since I bought it, never giving me any issues other than things you expect to replace like tubes, chain, etc. I had just completed replacing my fork seals/bushings and linkage bearings so I can turn a wrench but I don't know all the intricacies of starter clutches, decompression cams etc so forgive my ignorance. Two weeks ago, my buddy and I were out riding and wrapping up the day of riding. We were on our way back to the truck and started down a trail with some tight downhill corners. I was coming down while engine braking and stalled due to going too slow in too high of gear and not pulling the clutch in time. When I went to restart my bike my e-start wasn't working. It just gave me a low whine. Not a big deal, I can just kickstart my bike. I never really had an issue with it starting before, either by button or kick. I grab the hot start lever and give it a kick. Nothing. Give it another kick. Nothing. I check my fuel valve and make sure it has gas. Both fine. After several minutes of kicks and not a single turnover, I realized it was pretty easy to kick the lever, easier than it had been in the past. It was still operating as normal, just not giving me the same resistance as usual. I never got the bike started so I coasted downhill and bump started it thankfully, getting out of the trail vs having to push it out. I got the bike home and pulled my starter out, cleaned it etc while I was charging my battery (which never got above 10v). I replaced it with a Yuasa battery and picked up a new pair of plugs just in case (also had to buy the yamaha spark plug tool because I couldn't get my plug wrenches into the head. In cleaning the starter, it really wasn't that dirty or worn down. The brushes still had a ton of life in them and the carbon deposits weren't bad at all. I hooked it up to the battery and ensured it spun freely when connected straight to the battery. Starter is fine. Used my multimeter to test my switches, relay etc and all of that was fine as well. I remove the spark plug and its clear its been there a while. Its rusty. The threads are wet and black and looking it up it sounds like I fouled the plug via oil meaning I was likely running a very rich mixture or my piston rings are worn and allowing too much oil in the combustion chamber. I don't actually know myself. After replacing the plug and battery, I turn it on and it starts right up. The bike runs and starts right up on the e-start. The kick start is still giving me issues and feels soft compared to before which is why despite the battery and plug clearly needing to be changed, I think something else might be causing the compression issue. We went out riding the following weekend to see how it rode and it rode fine. I adjusted my mix to be leaner given the condition of the plug. My guess is that the piston rings are getting worn and allowing more oil which caused the plug to foul and it just happened to coincide with my battery crapping out. If it was just my air fuel mix being way too rich, I don't understand the lack of compression. Thats my guess but its not too educated. I'm not sure if this could be a starter clutch issue or if the plug fouling and compression could be completely separate issues altogether. Due to the age, I'm guessing I'll have to replace a top end fairly soon. I've only put 50-60 hours on it since I've owned it (I know, I don't get out to ride as often as I want), and its clear someone did the top end at some point before me but no idea how many hours since it was done. Any ideas? All are appreciated and thanks in advance.
  13. Hey all I reignited my interest in my own youtube channel when I bought the WR a couple of months ago. I thought I would catalogue how I was getting along taking it from an enduro machine to a fully UK road legal bike, and then taking it from there. There is other stuff on my channel if you take a look, but I guess you'll be more interested in just the WR. I am an amateur and don't have any skills with regards to video production or anything like that, it really is just a bit of fun. Saying that, they get better as they go on ☺️ Episode 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvFxNXVQAtk Episode 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nqvwz1THEYI Episode 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXL42Wi4VM8 Episode 4: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnZnPipUoWo Enjoy, if only for a giggle.
  14. Hello, guys I have an issue with my dirt bike, I have an '05 wr250f which has the springs too stiff for me, so I want to put another ones for my weight, the problem is that the previous owner changed the rear shock to an OHLINS one with a spring 596 11/54 030 and the front suspension with something that I do not know what brand it is. I will attach some picture please have a look at them and give an opinion on the brand. Thanks !
  15. Hey guys First time out on my 2007 (steel frame) WR250F since I got it mot'd right before lockdown. Anyway, I have noticed an issue with the clutch. Once warm it can be a sod to pull away with. It's all snatchy and makes it feel like I'm gonna stall it or fly off with my legs out behind me. It has all the finesse of Fred West. Secondly, When i pull the clutch in while in 1st gear, like waiting to pull out of a junction, I can feel it dragging. Any ideas? I am going to pop the cover off and give it a nosey to see if the steels are warped or the springs are too short, but this being my debut on the bike, I don't know a great deal about the models foibles. Any help greatly apprec'd. Ta muchly
  16. I found a completely bone stock 2009 WR250F. I have been looking online for a AIS delete kit have not had any luck, see lots of kits for the 450. does anyone have a inside line on the delete kit or is there a HOW to diy . I did a search here on TT without any success. Does someone have does or dont for this bike performance related.
  17. Hey guys I need some help/guidance. Long story short I replaced my head gasket, the bike was running great.... then I noticed when I went to kick start it there was no compression. I could freely crank the kick start with my hand with no help from the decompression lever. I figured the timing jumped as the chain was older (should have replaced when I did the gasket but didn't). I took the bike apart and realized I must have messed up putting in the cams. The journals were worn, especially on the intake side. It appears that because of the wear, burs have formed and prevented valve lifter from ascending all the way. This is preventing the middle intake valve from completely seating. As to why this happened I'm not entirely sure. I didn't use assembly lube, but I did put oil on the components when I put it together and I used a torque wrench…idk I’m assuming my head is beyond repair and that I will have to replace it. I haven't been able to find a 2002 replacement cylinder head but have read elsewhere that it is interchangeable with 2005 to 2008 cylinder heads, provided I change the piston head as well. If I go this route, I imagine I will have to replace the camshafts and valves that correspond with the year as well. Is this true? Sorry if this is a stupid question this has been a learning process, unfortunately at the expense of my wallet.
  18. I noticed a bit of play in my rear wheel the other day and was able to pinpoint that it was my linkage bearings. I ordered a pivot works kit and started disassembly. Most stuff started coming out fine but once I get the dust seals off, I uncover nothing but rust and rusty cake which used to be grease. Luckily I have all new bearings. The problem is getting the old bearings out. Ive got a vice, punches, big hammers, large sockets etc, but in my connecting rod, it looks like there's a machined shelf in the center of the hole between my two bearings meaning I can't just push them through. That would be way too easy. I haven't found any videos that hit on this topic but surely I can't be the only one who has encountered this. I've tried using a punch or screw driver to punch them out from the other side but then I just end up blowing out the race of the bearing. My last ditch option is to try and use a dremel to carefully grind it down until a piece of it can come off but I'm worried about screwing up the inside of the connecting rod. Next, I have to try and get the bearings out of the triangular linkage piece which seems like it has the same problem. If it were just one hole all the way though, this would have been done long ago. But because there's a machined shelf in the middle, its making my life a nightmare. I've been soaking them in penetrating oil, and trying to use heat but I just don't feel like its going anywhere. I don't even see how the Motion Pro tool would get this done. I replaced the shock bearings no problem. Anybody else with a similar bike have this issue? I bought this bike used 2 years ago and I'm pretty sure these are the original bearings. Half of the needles were rusted together and I couldn't even spin the collars by hand, they were frozen solid. Depending on the condition of the parts after I get these bearings out, I might end up having to order a new linkage connecting rod and relay arm.
  19. Looking at a 2012 wr250f this weekend. Has about 1500 Miles and 100 hours. From pictures it looks clean. Small wear mark on clutch cover.. A few imperfections on the plastics we all get. Not numbered, so I don’t think it’s been scrambled. Renthal bar. FMF exhaust. Upgraded carb kit have been added. Good tires. Claims Yamaha oil and clean air. Asking $3300 I asked about last valve check or top end in my last email. I don’t think it’s ever been checked according to his reply. Ive seen lower hour barn queens in the past few months but haven’t been fast enough to get one home Wait on another barn queen or take a chance on a top end and valves?
  20. I used to ride a 2011 KX250F and stopped riding 5 years ago. I also rode street bike most of my life and stopped that around the same time. Different reasons for giving them both up. Street - wasn't enjoying it anymore. MX - My riding buddy had a big accident and wasn't enjoying riding alone. Well My garage is filled with UTV's for for the entire family and I have the itch to get back onto two wheels. I'm was looking for something with a little less maintenance that my MX bikes. I also have a camp that's connected to a couple incredible trail systems. So... that brought me to the WR and I found a barely used one with 25hrs on it. I'm not looking for validation on my decision as I'm sure I'm picking the right bike for my needs. My question is, is there anything I need to do in terms of modifications right out of the gate. First thing I'm going to do is ride the shit out of it but I'm a little older and love to tinker so if there is anything that I can add to enhance my experience on the trails then that will give me something to do on my recovery days. I'm really not interested in anything to over the top like big bore kits or rebuilding suspension systems but I'm not afraid of hard work either. I plan to ride some fairly open trails but will do a few days a year with a group of buddies in some tight single track stuff as well. Your help and recommendations are greatly appreciated. I was on Tapatalk many years ago but it's been so long that I can't even find my username. Regardless, it's good to be back on this great forum with this great community. Side note: does this forum work with Tapatalk? Can't seem to get it synced up. P.
  21. Hi there, is it possible to add a map switch button to a 2018 WR250F in any way? my WR is a EU version (came stock with competition ECU and an opened throttle). Thanks in advance :)
  22. Has enyone done it before? Can it be done? I'm willing to drill new holes on it if necessary.
  23. I'm rather new to this whole forum thing, but does anybody out there have any idea why my Yamaha WR250F (2001) won't start? I've: Replaced the spark plug (and I've verified that I am getting spark) Cleaned the carburetor Cleaned the air filter Adjusted the idle Checked the oil level I don't give it any gas when starting it, and have tried it with and without cold start. Thanks in advance.
  24. I bought a 2006 WR250F a few years back that had no spark arrestor or tail pipe. Any advice where to find exhaust/silencer insert that fits directly on the 06 WR250 but with larger diameter outlet than stock. This would be with 4 mounting holes to fit up to the end plate. I want to keep my existing end cap. I see the GYTR, out there but it seems way over priced at $50+ , and they dont really show the entire component. From years past, it seems that there were alternatives from PMB, ect. but do not see them available now. Considered making my own with all of the years of discussion and advice here on TT, but I would have thought by now, this would be a typical part, easy to find. Also want to get spark arrestor. Ideally, a combo insert/ spark arrestor aftermarket. What am I missing?
  25. I have a 2007 WR250F with an aftermarket Clark tank and I would like to go back to stock size. Can you confirm the stock YZ/WR 250/450 tanks fit this bike? Seems I found that may be true for 2007 thru 2011. Anybody have a stock tank that fits they would like to sell?
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