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Hi Guys. I bought this TUSK tach to install in my 2018 YAMAHA YZ 250X: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-tach-hour-meter-p Does anyone know how I should configure properly? Depending on the option set, the idle values are completely different! Please, see the pic attached. Which setting should I use? "1P1r", "1P2r" or "2P1r"? Remembering that my 250X has no battery or headlight! Thanks to all for help!

I am lost at which bike to buy. Haven't owned one in 7 years and beeb riding UTV's, ATV'S, and some bikes inbetween. I am now 38 years old, 5'10 and weigh 220. I have been riding ATV's and Dirt Bikes since I was 10. I owned a 96 YZ250 then went to 05 WR450 then sold it 7 years ago when I started having kids. I mainly do desert riding on dirt, gravel, and sand in UT. My experience riding friends bikes in the past is: CR125 - I didn't like the constant shifting, very annoying, tired my wrist out fast since I have small hands. YZ450F - Suspension way too stiff and not geared for desert riding. I liked my WR450, especially the wide ratio gears and soft suspension but it was heavy and felt that way in corners and technical riding. Anyways looking to buy a bike and a little lost to go from here. Wanted to get some opinions. Definitely don't want a bike where I am constantly shifting. Also not worried about having the most power. Just something fun and easy to handle in the desert. Below is list of bikes I am interested. Kind of leaning towards the YZ250X since it is 36 lbs lighter than the WR450f, but might be concerned it is too squirrelly in the sand and loose gravel with it's powerband. Any help or recommendations would be appreciated. YZ250X YZ250FX YZ450FX WR250F WR450F

I have a 2020 250x and I thought I had read before that it comes with a spark arrestor which I need for the trails near me. I've searched and haven't read anything again to confirm it has one so maybe I'm mistaken. So if it doesn't have one, any recommendations on one?

Ok, I am aware of the differences between the 250 and the X, and know there are a bunch of posts about it, head, porting, transmission, porting, suspension, kickstand, CDI, power valve, pipe. Problem is saying the "porting and head is different" doesn't answer the questions I have. I am beginning a build on a 2005 YZ250 and want to simulate the X power characteristics as a learning tool for others looking for the same thing. This will be featured on my Youtube channel and want to find out what the porting differences are. Or even a builder that knows and can do it. I am in the parts gathering stage of the build so I have a little time. I think it will be an interesting build. Tepco Cycle Repair

Just picked up a new 2020 yz250x. Manual says 15:1 for break in. Dealer filled the tank with 30:1. I've been on 2 strokes for 25 years and never heard of such a rich mix however this is my first new bike. Should I drain the tank and mix a new batch at 15:1. I plan on following the manual, just looking for opinions.

Just a general question about a 97 wr250 2stroke what are the pros and cons? What would one be worth in Ontario Canada? Parts and plastic available today? And general info on the bike and opinion of it

Just picked up a 2019 yz250x along with a GYTR silencer. There must be a trick to remove the stock rubber bushings to transfer over to the new silencer?

Want to change trans oil lucas semi synthetic 10w 40 ok?

I broke a finger on my clutch basket. I was riding some trails that were slow paced and mostly rock garden like. All of a sudden the clutch got really grabby. Now earlier in the ride, maybe a half an hour before this happened I hit a large rock right in the skid plate. I did not notice any damage on the trail. When the clutch went out I lost all power. The motor just died. When I tried to start it, I noticed it was trying to walk forward with the clutch disengaged. The clutch was very noisy. It almost sounded like an old Ducati dry clutch. I was able to limp the bike back to the truck. Once I got it home I started with draining the oil and noticed a lot of shavings and a few chunks that were non magnetic. I decided to start with the clutch. I pulled off of pressure plate and started removing the clutch pack. I got a couple of disks out and the dog fell out. Any ideas of what could cause this? I have put 30 hours on the bike and there maybe have had 10 hours put on it by the previous owner. The bike is a 2016, and there are no grooves on the dogs themselves.

Anyone tried plugging their trans vent? I had 4 KTM 300’s before this 250X and none of them had one. Why would this bike be different in it’s need to vent the transmission? Same engine at a basic level. Got into some deep water today and got milk out of the trans when I dumped the oil. Never had that on the orange bikes as they had no vent and no where for water ingress.

I bought a brand new 2020yz250x and rode it four times. I shift into 1st and the shift lever does not return to it's position. I can shift up to 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th however, shifting down it will just stay bottomed out and I have to raise the shifter with my foot to down shift every single gear. Very disappointed only had a 30 day warranty and Yamaha won't help me at all with the issue it has 3 HOURS on the machine. Goes to the dealerJuly 21st and I'm pretty sure they're gonna make me pay full price for an engine teardown to fix the problem which is ridiculous. Very very disappointed with my purchase I'll update this when the dealer looks at the bike. I haven't touched anything on the bike and only put fuel in it once.

Hi All - I picked up a 2019 YZ250x with 6 hours on it earlier this year. It already had an Athena 300 kit installed when I'd gotten it. I've since put an additional 18 hours on it. Most of those hours have been slow, very technical, single track riding from my cabin at 4000 ft. Most of the hours I've used redline at 40:1; but recently switched to 2R at 32:1. Have been running 91 octane California gas (ethanol). I popped off the head this evening just to take a look at it. Head is super clean. Piston has some smegma carbon build up, but I could scrape most of it off with my finger nail. Makes sense given the riding I do. Probably need to lean it out some more. Or ride faster. But take a look at the cylinder. Note the scoring and what appear to be.... water spots? I've not seen spots like this before. Neither the scoring nor the spots will catch my nail, but seems concerning nonetheless. Thoughts or suggestions? Would you button this back up and run it? Appreciate any help you can provide!

So suddenly I noticed my YZ250X is dripping lots of oil out of the silencer to expansion chamber connection, so much so that it is dripping onto the garage floor. Per the pics, it’s a mess on the swingarm. (But not really much if any spooge out of the silencer.) I have 89.7 hours on the bike. I’m curious if this is... A. Obviously time to repack or replace the silencer? B. I am jetted way too rich? (Running Kinger317’s powerjet 40 setup precisely: 45 / 175 / 40 / N3EW-3 ... has been good to me to-date) C. Could it be that the last two times I rode it were all twisty singletrack with hardly on “on the pipe” riding. Literally the trailhead is like 100 feet from where I park. ”C” is what’s different and all else mostly the same except more hours on the bike, of course, which why I’m not presuming repacking will solve the problem. Any suggestions most appreciated!

Finally got out on my first ride on my new YZ250X. Was a great time, considering I haven't rode in over 20 years. I knew the jetting was going to be off and expected to foul a plug but luckily didn't. I put 1.7 hrs on the bike. That being said I could tell the jetting was off, but since I wanted to get a break in ride in I continued. As a disclaimer this is my first 2 stroke and first time working on a bike. Off the bottom its nice and crisp and feels great, around 1/4 ish throttle it just falls on its face. I didn't really do any WOT pulls but I tried the upper range a couple times and didn't seem to pull too hard(which I dont think is right), there was a fair bit of spooge after my ride and white smoke when blipping the throttle. Fuel is mixed 30:1 according to a premix calculator, but will be going up to 32:1 for ease of mixing. I am using Yamalube 2R. I dont know the actual elevation I was at, but Id say the range im in is 1500-6000ft

trying to get this 250 back to life, it also has a generic carb on it, with no elec connecter, no name on it, the bike is 01,, any body seen one of these basic carbs on a yama smoker? kicking my self for not seeing this before i purchased ,

I just purchased a Moose Eline pipe guard and I am not really happy that the whole bottom of the pipe is not protected. I have never dented a pipe down there but for the price shouldn't it cover the bottom? Did I get the wrong guard? Thanks.

I just picked up a '19 250x two days ago. I'm at sea level and this bike is fat with the factory jetting. The bike came with the optional jets so I was going to start messing with it to get it dialed in. I know how to jet a carb. In fact I can usually get them pretty close. But I have never worked on a carb with TPS. So I have a few questions... 1) Is there a traditional idle screw on this carb that maybe I'm missing? If not, how do you adjust idle?? 2) Once I swap jets, does anything have to be done as far as adjusting the TPS? Or do you just leave it alone? 3) Does the TPS have any involvement whatsoever in the jetting process or does it just do its thing? Appreciate the help!

Has anyone used or own a Hydra Force pipe repair kit specifically for a yz250x or yz250? I have a stock pipe and a Pro Circuit Platinum 2 pipe that both need repair and I am going to purchase a repair kit. I would like to try this one out but I am unsure of the adapter fit. I contacted HydraForce to find out for sure which adapter and they informed me that they do not have adapters to fit the Yamaha. I am not saying they do not have one.... but I’m pretty sure I’ve read where people have used them on the 250 Yamahas. https://www.hydra-force.co.uk/shop/

I have a yz250x with a DID520VM2 chain. I need to get a replacement master link, preferably the clip style. The shop near me can't find any for a vm2 besides going oem which is out of stock for a few weeks. I'm sure I could find one online but really want to go to clip style becausing grinding rivets off is ridiculous plus I don't have the rivet tool or desire to buy one. I was hoping to ride this weekend so hopefully someone knows of any master links, preferably clip style, that fit that chain.

I am getting ready to buy a new Yz250x once my local power sports store gets one in stock. Just wondering how everyone likes them? They good on the trail ? Power band manageable?

Thought I'd add to the pile of posts about poorly running YZ250Xs. I bought a brand new 2021 YZ250X in the middle of the Endurocross series when my trusty 06 YZ250 was stolen (thank you Hellifornia) and it is a PLUG FOULING machine. First, it would not idle without a hand on the throttle. Second, it would foul a plug every couple start-ups. Air screw as many turns out as she'll take, smaller pilot jet installed, fresh 30:1 ethanol-free premium 2R in the tank, and it would barely run with the black throttle screw all the way in (which it shouldn't need to be). Float height was perfect, and no apparent leaks. The issues persisted as I reached 4 hours on the bike, which in an Endurocross series is like a dozen heat cycles. She was broken in. The 250X even fouled a plug on me at the starting line for a qualifier race, which had me ready to throw it in a Glen Helen dumpster. By the end of the series, I had a 42 pilot jet installed, tried 40:1 premix, but still fouled a plug every 20 minutes or so with the air screw ready to fall out and the throttle screw all the way in. Still barely idled. Plugs were all reasonably dry but appeared and behaved carbon-fouled. I smell poor combustion... I could not solve the problem until I later switched to whatever that Suzuki needle is everyone recommends and also switched to Bel Ray H1R at 40:1. I wish I knew which change fixed it, but it immediately behaved super lean until I put the air screw back in to a reasonable 1-1/4 turns and backed the throttle screw out into civilization again. Look at that - a kinda running bike! Whatever the fix was, should either be mandatory for a new bike? No. Lame. Reading other posts, it seems about half the 250X pack has this fouling/idling problem and the other half has no issue. I posit that this difference in experience is due to 1) riding/warm-up style that is more or less conducive to fouling and 2) manufacturing variation (squish, ring/cyl mating, jug size (mine is C), etc). This experience has me mostly convinced that the low compression design of this engine gives it poor combustion. Could it be that a weak compression ratio on the X is compounding the well-documented but not-usually-too-noticeable weaknesses of the old YZ to a level that they're impossible to ignore on about half the X's on the market? Seems probable to me. Before you rapid-type a snarky reply about about thou shalt not question the magical "Yamaha engineers," you should know I'm as blue-biased as any KTM-haterade-aholic out there and I hold Japanese manufactures in the highest regard. Heck, I was previously racing a 2006 YZ in an AMA series all over the country. That's #blucru if anything is. But for my $9k, I'm convinced that the YZ250 engineers retired 15 years ago and some Product Manager created the X by reading a few old TT threads (WR gears, susp. valving, dialed down ignition and PV springs are NOT NEW JAPANESE ENGINEERING). The MBA consultant you want to believe is a samurai master probably called it "social media analytics" to "crowd-source data" for the "YZ off-road optimization project." Project codename "Orange Crush," I'm sure. Lol. I honestly wish I would have just bought a late-model used YZ250 and put in the X gears like I had on my old 06. The X seems to be an unimprovement on a solid YZ platform that was already on thin ice in terms of combustion efficiency, aimed at a market that was absolutely salivating for a Japanese competitor to the 300's. You win this round, Yamaha marketing department. Well played. I Shercoulda used a Betta bike than this. Maybe next TM.

Anyone know where to find a Yz250 gytr weighted flywheel? Regarding the major outlets, these things have been out of stock and on back order for months and longer. Wondering if anyone has a source? Thanks. Part number gyt-fnx97-50-50

Mods if possible don't pull this, I'm just posting here as well as classifieds because it seems classifieds don't get much traction now days. I'm looking to buy a spare wheelset for my 250X. Getting into racing and training more and trying to cover my bases. They don't have to be pretty , just looking for something straight, true, and 18" rear of course. Maybe you have oem take-offs after getting some shiny new excels? Let me know, thanks!

how far do you guys usually turn the air screw in before you go to the next size up pilot? Just cutious

Now available in clear......or factory brown or bronze anodizing.....😊