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Showing results for tags 'Yz250'.
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2013 YZ-250R with Eric Gorr 300 kit and WR-426 wide-ratio 5-speed transmission and a variety of WR-450, aftermarket and custom parts. -
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Love this bike!! Had some good spills and thrills on it.. Takes hits like a champ!! -
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1989 YZ250 -
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Love It -
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Its Great! -
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coolest MX-er ever -
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Lean, mean, hare scramble machine! -
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Its fast...- 4 comments
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11 reviews
IDENTIFICATION Type: Off-Road Warranty (Months): 1 Revision Status: Upgraded ENGINE Displacement (cc): 249 Engine Type: Single-Cylinder Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 2-Stroke Valve Configuration: Reed Valve Carburetion Type: Carburetor TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Manual Number of Speeds: 5 Primary Drive System: Chain BRAKES Front Brakes: Hydraulic Disc Rear Brakes: Hydraulic Disc TIRES Front Tire(s): Dunlop -
17 reviews
IDENTIFICATION Type: Off-Road Warranty (Months): 1 Revision Status: Upgraded ENGINE Displacement (cc): 249 Engine Type: Single-Cylinder Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 2-Stroke Valve Configuration: Reed Valve Carburetion Type: Carburetor TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Manual Number of Speeds: 5 Primary Drive System: Chain BRAKES Front Brakes: Disc Rear Brakes: Disc TIRES Front Tire(s): 80/100 R21 Rear Tire(s): 110/90 R19 SPECIFICATIONS Wheelbase (in / mm): 58.3 / 1481 Dry Weight (lbs / kg): 214 / 97 Fuel Capacity (gal / L): 2.1 / 8 Seat Height (in / mm): 39 / 991 Number of Seats: 1 FEATURES Tachometer: Not Available Digital Instrumentation: Not Available Windshield: Not Available -
10 reviews
MOTORCYCLE TYPE Moto Cross ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Displacement (cc): 249 Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 2 Speeds: 5 Speed TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS Number of speeds: 5 Speed Dry Weight (lbs.): 218 -
4 reviews
MOTORCYCLE TYPE Moto Cross ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Displacement (cc): 249 Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 2 Speeds: 5 Speed TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS Number of speeds: 5 Speed Dry Weight (lbs.): 218 -
1 review
MOTORCYCLE TYPE Moto Cross ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Displacement (cc): 249 Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 2 Speeds: 5 Speed TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS Number of speeds: 5 Speed Dry Weight (lbs.): 218 -
2 reviews
MOTORCYCLE TYPE Moto Cross ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Displacement (cc): 249 Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 2 Speeds: 5 Speed TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS Number of speeds: 5 Speed Dry Weight (lbs.): 218 -
2 reviews
MOTORCYCLE TYPE Moto Cross ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Displacement (cc): 249 Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 2 Speeds: 5 Speed TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS Number of speeds: 5 Speed Dry Weight (lbs.): 218 -
0 reviews
MOTORCYCLE TYPE Moto Cross ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Displacement (cc): 249 Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 2 Speeds: 5 Speed TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS Number of speeds: 5 Speed Dry Weight (lbs.): 218 -
5 reviews
MOTORCYCLE TYPE Moto Cross ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Displacement (cc): 249 Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 2 Speeds: 5 Speed TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS Number of speeds: 5 Speed Dry Weight (lbs.): 218 -
Hey Thumpertalk people, I recently made a new poor financial decision and got a beat to hell 09 WR250f for $300. She currently does not run, and has not run in years but I'm gonna change that (probably). I was told by the last owner that he did a rebuild (or something?) and that it broke shortly after and he took it to a shop and they said that the cases were scored. Upon getting the bike and taking it apart and unpacking the box of parts that came with it, I see that I basically got just a frame. A bunch of stuff is missing like the valve cover, cams, cam retainers, piston, clutch cover, clutch, almost all of the bolts for the stuff that was unassembled, and some other odds and ends I'm sure. The water pump gear was partially broken off but I didn't see any major damage to the other gearing shockingly enough, and everything is a bit corroded from sitting wrapped in plastic and rags for an unknown amount of time. Oh and also the cylinder is scored deep enough to catch a finger nail, so that's toast too. So after taking inventory of everything, it seems I basically need a new everything engine wise. I'm not sure the condition of the suspension but if I had to guess, I'd assume it needs some seals or replacement too. So pretty much my question to anyone else whos had these bikes is what years engine are compatible to put into it? I've found a few 09 WR engines rebuilt online that are $3k+, but I'd really like to not have to pay that much. From my research I think a 06+ yz250 engine will work because this is aluminum frame bike as well, but I'm not sure if I'm missing any sensors or something. I'd assume that they'd work from the range of 06-14 because after they went fuel injected and then I'd need an ECU as well. YZ engines seem to be cheaper from my research which is why I may go with one of those. Can anyone confirm this from experience? As far as WR engines go, I think the range is 07-15 for the same reasons as the YZ. Again, does anyone know if this is true? Also from my research it seems the biggest difference for the WR to the YZ is the WR is "Wide Range," so it should just be the transmission. Could I get a YZ engine and swap the gearing over to have a WR identical engine? Is this a stupid idea for some reason? I appreciate anyone's help to get me closer to my woods ripping dream! Cheers
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I'm doing Hare Scrambles/XC racing on a 2002 YZ250. I'm a 6'2" 190lb "Fast C Rider". I also play ride MX, and want to give racing MX/GP/Megacross a shot, but the forks are holding me back. For the rear end, I've set the race sag to 100mm. I had to add a lot of preload ("tightened the nut" about an inch), so my bike sag is less than ideal now, which I understand indicates I should try a stiffer rear spring. What are the handling effects of running this way? Simply setting the sag helped the bike's manners an amazing amount. I was terrified to jump this bike before setting sag (hello boner air!), but after, it is much easier. It launches neutrally on most jumps now. I'm running full soft (out) on high speed compression (helps the rear stay put on rooty hill climbs, etc), and a few clicks out from stock on the rest. RT calculator says to go from 4.8 kg/mm stock shock spring to 5.4 or 5.6 kg/mm. The front end is not going so well. I've changed the fork oil and have been playing with clickers and oil level. No matter what I try, the front end is still too harsh on small stuff, and far too soft on big stuff. Clicking them to the bottom is a regular thing in play riding as well as racing. I can also feel and see the forks spending most of their time at the bottom of the stroke. I'm very budget-oriented, so I'm thinking about going ahead with stiffer springs with the stock forks and valving. Is that a mistake? In addition to springs, should I buy a tanks kit? Gold valves? Drill my valves? Should I skip springs for the 2002 forks (KYB 46U), and instead shop for 2005 AOS forks (~$200), or the 2-3x pricier 2006 SSS forks, and then buy springs for those? Should I plan to pay for a revalve for these forks after a swap? I'm feeling more than a bit lost here LOL. 48mm fork swap thread: /topic/1003475-figured-out-how-to-swap-07-48mm-sss-forks-into-03-yz250/ RT calculator says to go from 0.43 kg/mm stock fork springs to 0.48 or 0.50 kg/mm. Same rate but different size/part number for 05 or 06+ forks. Photos of the bike, to keep this interesting:
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Hi, so i just bought a new 2013 yz250 and was wondering what everybody used in terms of oils, mix and engine, I know it says to run yamamlube but i just feel like that stuff is cheap, ive never used the stuff so thats just my opinion. I race and im always pinned so i just wanted to know what everyones go to oils are. I used amsoil interceptor and the motul sytnthetic tranny expert, 10w 30 on my 08 sx125.
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So I've decided to buy a new bike I don't want to buy someone else's problem. Something with no history and I'll know everything about it no questions. I got a quote for a 2014 for 7300 cash OTD. Is this a solid deal or should I bring lube?
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Finally updated my YZ250 to a '09 with a total of 150 hours on it. Previous owner had a rekluse in it. He kept the rekluse and put the stock clutch back in. During the test drive the clutch seemed fine but the pull was harder than I expected. I need to make the pull as easy and smooth as possible due to tennis elbow in my left arm. I am old school and love a clutch so I really don't want to go rekluse. I took it apart and everything measured fine. I found ware on the arm end of the push rod (see pic), on the edge of the push arm (see pic), and pretty good groves worn into the pressure plate from the springs. I think these three things would add to the pull. Question 1: How much extra pull would each of these three things cause, and replace some, none or all of them? Question 2: Is a rekluse harder on these parts than normal? I plan to replace the lever (brass ovaled some) and the pivot bolt. The perch seams good. The cable is good but I'm not sure its a Yamaha or not. It has the markings "Yamato Fine Cable 1P83590-0F07" on it. If its not Yamaha I will replace it. Question 3: Is that a Yamaha cable? A few yz's ago my '85 had a stiff pull when the bike was brand new. A popular modification was a small aftermarket piece that extended the arm, It worked great for 180,000 miles! Question 4: Has anyone added a piece to the arm to give it a little more length? I have the room under the MSR cover (9oz FFW). Thank You in advance, any answers would be appreciated.........Tim
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Hi guys, only just getting back into the swing of riding again so thought id throw up a pic of how my YZ250 is looking at the moment. Chasing some ideas on grabbing a little more top end seem to get pulled by 450 near end of straights. I have 13/51 which i like cause i can run 3rd gear in turns a lot without clutch but yea just looking for idea. Let me no what you think.
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Alright so I have been contemplating switching to a 2014 or 2015 yz250f for quite some time now. I currently ride a 2006 yz250 (2 stroke) love the bike, always makes me smile but racing on 2 strokes my whole racing career I am tempted to hop aboard a 250f for a season. I am 19 years old, started racing a couple years ago upper mid to front pack c rider, 150 lbs 5'10". currently do all bike work myself with my dad, from bottom ends to suspension rebuilds we can do it so no worries about costs of shops rebuilding my bikes, I take extremely good care of my bikes. sooo, a couple good deals have come up on 2014 yz250f's in my area and im tempted to jump on one of them ASAP. anyone with experience on the new yz250f's give me some advice about maintenance schedules and basically reliability hour wise on their bikes. I do ride my bikes pretty hard but like I said take extremely good care of them. im tired of the 2 stroke Nazis saying OMG your an idiot 2 strokes are way superior and cheaper. not against two strokes, ive owned them all my life and love them just cant see how a 250f would be that much more expensive to own and race unless neglected to the point of grenading. anyone with experience on these bikes let me know how you feel about them in any way at all I am very interested and serious about buying one but nervous about costs as I am on somewhat of a budget. Thanks and ride on 🙂
