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I recently picked up a 2006 CRF250R. There has been some heavy handed wrenching on the bike, so it took a lot of work to rebuild. I need to get a carb float bowl drain screw and bolt, but neither are available from Honda individually. It is listed on the parts diagram as only being available with a complete float bowl, but unfortunately that doesn't appear to be available from Honda anymore. I bought both parts from Jets R Us, but the drain screw has different thread and the holes in the drain bolt have to be modified. Any suggestions for alternate parts (a part # would be great) that would work? OEM drain bolt on the left has 4 slots, FCR-MX part from Jets R Us has 2 small holes. Bolt fits, but will need some Dremel work to open the holes up: Destroyed OEM drain screw on the left, Jets R Us FCR-MX part on the right, which has different thread and no o-ring.

Hi all, I am looking for help with my KTM300 2002. Bike wouldn't start cold and was hard to keep idle without chock but mid and top were fine. I decided to make a project out of it and refresh the old bike. Rebuilt the top end (Wiseco piston A, cylinder looked good, all within spec) and replaced the old carb with new Keihin with JD jetting (42 pilot, 175 main, red needle with clip at location 3 from top). Currently compression is great, spark is fat and blue but it is still hard to start (can go 10-15 kicks or more without starting). Once it starts it can keep idle and rev up easily. I am replacing the reeds next week but not sure it will help since old reeds were not in a bad shape (bit worn out but seemed to seal). Any idea what to do next? I'm not a mechanic but with help of YouTube tutorials and KTM blue prints I'm able to do manage. Many thx! I have been riding my 2016 350XCF in the meantime but nothing feels as good as 2T!

So I bought this bike and I'm beating my head on the wall barely starts I believe it's jetting as it's an aftermarket carb plug is fouled rich in even checked timing once in a while I'll get lucky and get a quick rip with a new plug struggling to find proper jet size not even sure if the carb is the right one plz help seems like no one can give updates on if problem was fixed

Well the iggornant 17 year old that I am decided to rip the carb off without checking the service manual first for proper removal of the TPS connections. instead of discounting the connector at the wire harness I unscrewed the torx head screw to remove the whole thing. When I put it back together I noticed I wasn't getting the normal amount of power. Kinda suspected I didn't get somthing right in the carb. So I took it back off again the same way I took it off and double-triple checked my work and still had the same issue. So after further research in the manual I noticed that it said removal of the TPS was a no no cause it would result in loss of power. Is there a proper way to reinstall the tps sensor? I've searched numerous times on the topic of install but could never find a direct awnser. Any help you could give me would be appreciated 🙂 thank you! I can awnser any questions you may have

Hold on to your seats because this is going to be a good for you all! Hey! My name is Adam, I have a 1999 Cr 250r, and just completely went over the motor myself. Wisceo bottom end kit, and top end kit, new lectron carb, all new seals and gaskets, transmission bearings and freshly nikasiled cylinder. Followed the building process to a tee corresponding to the manual. Now needless to say, the build came with its issues. I ordered a completely new stator, flywheel, cdi, and coil. Because my close friend used my ignition setup in his cr500 while my bike way down, and I ended up going new. While upon checking for spark, we had none, and it turns out the stator plug had 2 pins backwards in the connector. A very long delay, but worth it, to gain spark. Then came the time to try its first start up, and it wouldn’t go, just kept backfiring and sending my knee into the handlebars every kick. We immediately suspected timing was the issue, and it turns out that my brand new flywheel has the magnet for the pickup, a complete 180 degrees from where it was supposed to be to fire and run properly. our solve to this was to grab my old, known good flywheel off the Cr 500, and try that. Now here is where my problem and major issues come into play. After the timing and spark was finally all set to go. It fired up 3rd kick with the lectron and sounded absolutely amazing and tight for a solid 30 seconds and then died. After going through many plugs, messing with timing, and the lectron, THE BIKE WILL START NO ISSUE- STRONG, AND INSTALLY BOG AND DIE. (Caps for attention to key issue) we suspect a fault with the lectron and messed with it for a long time and nothing changed. Then we pulled a known good pj carb off the Cr 500, and it does the exact same thing, choke or no choke. It will just start up, and instantly bog and die. so fuel, compression, spark and timing are out of the question. Do I suspect an issue with the right side crank seal? Leak down test? I’m out of options. I’m posting on here hoping someone had this issue and knows a easy and task way to make her run. Because everything is telling it to run, but she just doesn’t want to. Thank you for your time.

Hello. When I am riding my bike and give it full gas in any gear besides 1st, it bogs on me and is choppy for awhile. At low rpm, the bike will die on me if i don’t give it a small amount of gas while the clutch is pulled in. I took it in the shop, they charged $170 but i’m having the same problem. They changed out some gaskets and assuming they did some adjusting. Could it be a user problem? I don’t know. Thanks! Also these guys I went to are trusted, I’ve been going for 3/ half years now and they always fix my problem. But this one seems to stick with me. Im also a beginner/ intermediate at working/ riding on bikes.

So I got this bike awhile ago and I have been slowly cleaning and pulling things apart to clean them and make sure they are working right. I pulled off the carburetor and I think it's from a different model xl600r or maybe not? Any info would be great it's a ph60a keihin. What does this come on and what rebuild would I need for this carb I pulled the bowls off and they look pretty clean but didnt look at the jets because this carb doesnt look like some of the others inside and didnt want to mess with it to bad before getting some opinions.

TL;DR at the end 1987 Kawasaki KLR 250 (9.3k miles showing) Symptoms: Cruising during a ride, the engine speed dropped instantly and without warning as if someone cut the throttle cable. It was able to start right back up after coming to a stop, but would die if any throttle was applied. Observations: Will start again consistently, but will not rev up. Any movement of the throttle's butterfly valve kills the engine. Modulating the choke with the throttle closed will increase engine speed from ~900 RPM - 2100 RPM. Idle is smooth and consistent. No knocking, pinging, or overheating issues have been noted. Analysis: Fuel Carburetor cleaned with liquid injector cleaner and sprayed out with aerosol carb cleaner. Serviceable jets (main and pilot) replaced. Diaphragm slide moves freely (with spring return) in its slot. Movement during normal operation is unconfirmed. Fuel-to-air ratio adjusted, but it has been noted to start easily at all ranges of available adjustment. Fresh fuel and fuel filter installed. Fuel lines are open and the carburetor's float is operational. Confirmed by opening the drain on the float bowl. Spraying starter fluid into the air-box will increase engine speed slightly (+1k-1.5k RPM), but only after the butterfly valve has been opened. The amplitude of the opening does not seem to matter. No backfiring has been heard except after liberal amounts of starter fluid have been put in the air-box. Air Subjectively, it sounds like air is being pulled into the air-box side of the carburetor when kicking the engine over. Spraying starter fluid near the junction of the engine and carburetor does not affect engine speed. The air-box is open and clear. The air filter is clear and clean. No excess of oil was noted. Compression Testing with the automatic compression release engaged reached 60 psi (with flickers on the analog gauge up to near 80 psi). Service range is 60 - 114 psi. Testing with the automatic compression release disabled reached 120 psi. No leaks were audible anywhere during either test. No blue smoke or blow-by is noted in the idle range noted above. Spark The spark plug grounded outside the engine during compression testing consistently made sparks. Resistance of primary and secondary coils of the ignition cord were checked. The secondary was 5kOhm above the service limit of 9kOhm, and the assembly was replaced. Resistance values between pins on the CDI box were checked with an analog multimeter, and the source coil negative pin appeared disconnected (>100MOhm), so a new CDI box was swapped in. The new box had ~40kOhm resistance on the same pin, well above the recommended range, but was at least measurable. Resistance of the trigger/exciter circuit was measured and found to be perfectly within the acceptable range. The gap between the magneto and pickup point was also within tolerance. No deformities, lost magnets, or any other such physical abnormalities were noted on the magneto or stator. All wire connections are continuous and have not been found to be shorted to ground. Timing Timing of the cam lobes was confirmed in relation to the camshaft. All joints are sufficiently torqued, lubricated, and not worn beyond service limits. Valves Diameter service limits of valves and valve stems have not been checked due to results of compression tests. Intake springs were removed for inspection. No physical abnormalities noted. One set felt like it was weaker than the other while in the machine, but it felt just the same as the other as soon as it was out. Nothing about the seat in either spring's location seemed different than the other. General Kick-starting does not feel restricted or as if the engine is binding at any point. All other electronic components operate as expected. Very little vibration is noted while the engine idles. Temperature of the coolant system rises within an acceptable amount of time (~4 minutes while held between 1500-2000 RPM). TL;DR I can get the bike to start just fine, but it will die as soon as the throttle is opened even a little bit. Moving the choke will increase engine speed. The carb has had a rebuild and a good clean, the spark is good, compression is fine, and air is no problem. Valve springs and timing have also been checked. Where should I look or recheck next?

So I purchased a 2008 ttr110 that only had about 5 hours on it but it sat for 10 years. I did all the necessary maintenance: rebuilt carb, cleaned tank, new air filter, battery, etc. The bike ran lean as expected with stock jets so I purchased the tusk cold start jet kit which increased pilot and main jet size. The bike seemed to be a little too rich so I modified the airbox with a couple uni 1" filters and that seemed to help. However my issue is with the idle. On cold start it idles very high as if it were on choke, but once it warms up it idles fine. After riding for a while the idle drops extremely low and will even stall. Then a few minutes later it will idle fine. Another few minutes and it drops again or will idle higher. The idle is extremely inconsistent and the bike almost acts like a 2 stroke that's been idling too long and needs to be "revved out" if you will, in order to run smooth again. I've cleaned the jets and carb literally 20 times thinking maybe there is just some old debris in there but nothing has helped. Anyone have any suggestions. Would it be possible for the choke to get stuck and unstuck while riding somehow causing the issue?

Hi all, I have a completely stock 2005 Suzuki drz110 (same thing as a klx110) and it is running way to rich. It wont idle at all but will hang before it dies. It puffs a little bit of black smoke too. It always starts 1st kick and has decent power. Jets are stock at 35 pilot and 80 main. playing with the idle and fuel screws don`t do anything. Spark plug is black but it doesn't foul plugs. checked all around engine for air leaks with carb and choke cleaner and have found none. Air filter is clean and valves were just adjusted. Im out of things to try. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Luke

I have recently bought a YZ 250 2001 (1700 $)and the plastics looked cracked and dry rotted for lack of a better term. Under the graphics they were mint condition literally brand new looking. Is there any way that I could restore them so that I won't need to special order tank shrouds. I already ordered a rear fender for 17.99 it looked beyond repair to me. I tried the razor blade trick but that just took way to long. Thanks Guys this is my first post so roast easy. least its a two stroke right? Runs great and tons of power.

My carb drain nut threads look bad and wont screw back in carb bowl more than one turn Any ideas?

hi all i recently purchased a 01 ttr 225 and it didn't come with a carburetor i didn't think it was going to be expensive but come to find out their around 300-400$ for a new one! i paid less then that for the bike and was wondering if their was any alternatives that will fit that are around 100$ or less and input would help thanks

I have a 1988 xr600 that I bought with a leaking float,(bike had sat for 2 years) have totally cleaned and rebuilt the carb,replaced needle and float,checked the tube inside of the float bowl for leaks and it still leaks from the overflow. I took the bowl back off and inspected meddle and seat double checked float height (14.5 mm) and it still leaks so for grins I adjusted the float height to 18mm. Same leak......whenever I take it apart and reinstall it won’t leak at first, but after I run the engine and shut it off after about 2-3 mins it leaks and continues to leak running or not. Any ideas besides throwing a lit match into the puddle of gas? Thank you Dan

I have posted a few threads about the problem I am having getting my bike (2007 WR450) running right, and now that I have implemented more modifications and readjusted the settings I thought it would be best to summarise my problem in one thread with all information and work I have done as I still can't solve the problem I am having and I don't know what else to try at this stage. The Kran and others been very helpful on the threads and Guy Graham has provided extensive help in messages. All of which I am grateful for. I just thought though that I would put this out there one more time to see if there is anything I have missed or could try. The problem is when twisting the throttle off idle the bike sometimes instantly stalls with a small backfire that kicks back on the starter motor. It often but not always happens when I am blipping the throttle with the clutch in or when I am slipping the clutch. It is almost as if when you rev the throttle just as the revs drop and hit idle you rev it again, that is when the bike stalls and backfires before any suggestion of a bog. It is almost like the sudden drop in revs followed by the sudden rise in revs again is too much or adds too much fuel or too much air to the equation before the idle can balance itself. The problem becomes clearest when I want stop or do a tight turn or slip the clutch to try and move slowly. I pull in the clutch, but because the clutch drags slightly it puts a small amount of strain/drag on the engine which then stalls the bike unless I blip the throttle or give off idle revs. But blipping and off idle revs causes it to stall in this mysterious way. It makes it dangerous as it can stall at exactly the wrong moment, like at a road junction or difficult slow crossing/obstacle. The problem has been there since I bought the bike, after cleaning the carb and after the modifications I have done. The latest carb modifications have helped slightly but the problem is still there. This is the spec and work I have done to the bike. I should point out that the only thing I have just done but not run the bike since, is clearing the pilot and fuel screw passages with wire to confirm not restricted (the passage was not visibly blocked and this was done to make sure there was no blockage narrowing the passages). Airbox lid removed, baffle out of exhaust, shorter throttle stop, grey wire Carb thoroughly cleaned with both carb and brake cleaner and all passages and jets blown out New jets, 168 main, 45 pilot, 50 leak, 110 air, 70 air, 65 starter, JD red needle Adjustable fuel screw fitted GYTR AIS removal kit installed 2008+ AP diaphragm, rod, and cover (with original float bowl check valve removed) Stiffer AP spring fitted and timing on AP set with strong, early, good squirt visible Float height checked and within spec Throttle valve plate seal is present and appears fine The fuel screw seems to run best at half a turn out but is slightly vague and the change is very subtle. When warmed up, I tried opening the choke and the revs increased almost as if someone twisted the throttle. It didn't make the bike stall. If I pull the hot start instead of the choke, the bike does not stall but does run a little rougher. It can also be tricky to start, often wanting a slight bit of throttle twist. The previous owner had 170 main and 50 pilot jet and had not fully uncorked the bike. I don't know if he knew something I don't. However, I am completely out of ideas of what to try now and I am getting tired of taking the bike apart and trying to sort this. I have no confidence in the bike with it as it is because it can stall at the most dangerous wrong moments. I made a couple of short videos which show the problem after all new carb parts. The first is with the idle screw set where I initially thought it should be. The second video is with the idle raised slightly by about a sixth of a turn. In the first video the stall is very much what I'm talking about, although I'm blipping the throttle the point at which it stalls does not seem that harsh when actually doing it. The second video, the bike only stalled because I purposely whacked the throttle open at the end to try and get it to bog going to wide open, the bike bogs though before it stalls like you would expect. I also made a video of the AP squirt.

So here's the deal. I have an old air cooled 2 stroke that doesn't want to work right in cold weather. Back in autumn, it mostly worked fine, it didn't want to kick start when cold (had to bump start it), but once warmed up, it kick started first try every time. Now when I try to bump start in the winter (about 0 degrees outside), it will start for a few seconds, I'll try to ride off and it will alternate between bogging out and accelerating for a while, and then foul a plug (the plug on the left in the picture). If I keep trying to bump start it for a few minutes, it heats it up enough that it starts no problem when I throw in the new plug. But after going for a ride and pulling this second plug out (right one in the picture), it looks like it's running very lean ? How can a bike foul plugs and run lean at the same time? Sometimes it will also randomly foul plugs when it's already warmed up and running for a while, which is even more confusing to me, because the plug will always look lean if I pull it out when the bike is still working, but black and oily a few minutes later when it fouls a plug.

Hello all, I’m new to this website figured I’d give it a try. I’ve had this issue before, and want to know if anyone else has experienced it. I have an 08 crf450r that runs great, the carb was recently gone through (R&R, rejet...) by a professional shop. However I found that after storing it for a couple months either when I turn the gas on or start the bike gas starts leaking from the CARB, not the overflow tube, but the CARB Itself. The first time it happened I took it back to the shop and they said all they did was just open it back up, inspect and retighten everything and it ran fine with no leaks. BTW I always drain the gas from the bowl before storing it if that means anything. Anyway this time the bike sat for about 4 months, totally fine when I put it away, and as soon as I turned the gas on it was straight dripping off the float bowl nut. Took a few more kicks than normal to start, but ran fine once it got going. I’m suspecting it could be the combo of a stuck float needle and a bad bowl gasket? But wouldn’t the bike run like crap if the float was stuck? It runs/idles/revs fine. Any opinions? Any similar experiences of putting a bike away totally fine and then pulling it out months later to find a leaky carb? I will be fixing it this spring reguardless, figured I’d just toy around with some other opinions while I wait for winter to be over. P.S. if anyone is really that interested I can email you a video of the leak. Thanks!

I was in the process of leaning my jetting when someone told me that if the floats not adjusted to spec it could give the impression that the bikes running too rich. Can someone expand on this? What are some ways too adjust your float? What are the specs for a float in a 2002 ktm200exc?

Hey guys! I recently cleaned and rejetted my carb. I live at about 8k feet. Here are my specs; 2009 kx250f Main: 160 Pilot: 42 Needle: Stock (I think it is set to the 4th clip) Now, upon putting it back together I started her up with the choke on and had no issue. I turned off the choke and it abruptly died on me. After a few adjustments I figured it was a dirty pilot jet. I took it out and sure enough it looked gunked up inside. I cleaned it but I had a brand new 42 and decided to use that and save the old one as an extra. After I got it put back together I was able to get it to idle without the choke on but I had to loosen my air/fuel screw quite a lot. Its at about 3.5 turns out. Still in the learning stages on all this so I am not too sure what I should do. I am guessing that a different sized pilot would do the trick but I am not sure if I should go up or down in size. I was thinking about putting a 45 in it. Most of the forum posts I have read everyone is running a 42 or 45 with best success. What do you think?

Hi all, just recently cleaned my carb for the first time because my bike was running really rough. I noticed the pilot jet was slightly clogged so i cleaned it and the other two jets. (so i think) Put it back together and now it is idling like new. However, anything over about half throttle and the bike starts to bog down and if you dont let off throttle it dies. Let off and it goes back to idling fine. Did i do a crappy job cleaning the jets or could it be something else in the carb that i didnt clean. (i only cleaned the jets while i had it off) Could it be the slide?

hi i just got done syncing my banshee carbs but i had to take the left carb and take it all the way in and my right carb is screwed all the way out could anyone tell me if there is an issue with this

Hi tt, i noticed an overflow of gas coming out of the carb so i checked it out. I assumed it was the float height do i tried to find the spec in the manual, but it is not there. Can anyone tell me that the spec is? or what they run theres at. Also please let me know if it could be caused by something else. thanks

My rm125 leaks gas when sitting there on the stand with gas off. I've tried cleaning carb to make sure no dirt or anything! Please help! Also my kickstarter is tight when pulling out?

Ok, so ive got a 98 yz80, it runs amazing. Ill fire it up and it starts first kick. Idles great. Ill ride it, and its pretty good in the low end. But sometimes, if i open the throttle it will bog, it slows me down, could it be a rich bog, or a air bog? then ill just hold clutch in, rev it back up and itll be fine. Its not too big of an issue, but it sure is annoying. Im running 50:1, do i need to be running more oil, or could it do with something else?