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Hi total newbie to motorbikes. picked up a second hand RM85 the other day. Kicks over fine. But when hold the clutch and put it in gear it goes into gear (I can feel a little clunk) but when I let the clutch out nothing happens. In any gear. On the stand you can click it through the gears and feel the resistance in the wheel but again it won’t drive the wheel. Had the clutch off, took out the plates and springs and all looks ok. No obvious issues. Checked the thickness of the plates and springs and they are all within tolerance. Any ideas??? Thanks Jeremy

wonder what year clutch baskets are compatible with a 2002 rm125. is a 2001? thx

Hey Guy's, Has anyone here done a Hydraulic Clutch upgrade on their Pig ??? I have looked at several Generic types and styles on Ebay and Amazon, Can't find one made specifically for the 650R, Does anyone have a recommendation ? or is this even a good idea ? Thoughts ???

hi. the clutch master cylinder of my 2014 cobra cx 65 is damaged and they tell me in my spare parts supplier that they are no longer manufacturing that part. could anyone recommend an alternative piece?

I just bought a Magura hydraulic clutch for my 2014 CRF450R. Bought it thinking install would be easy, and I'm not sure that's the case now that I have the product in my hands. I have searched the forums, YouTube, etc for install help specifically for my model year (2013 and 2014 are same really), and haven't found anything specific for the 2013-2014 model install at all. Instructions from Magura are TERRIBLE, and are not specific at all to the Honda - generic instructions - so I'm debating if I want to return the product, cuz I don't want trouble or a big install job. Question: for the 2013-2014 CRF450R install ONLY of a Magura Hymec hydraulic clutch - other model years are different and thus it won't be helpful for other model years - do you have any tips or feedback? My concerns are below... 1. The 2014 model has a sleeve behind the clutch actuation arm that the Magura clutch slave cylinder fits into. Stock, the sleeve holds one end of the cable, with a nut on the other end to keep the cable end tight in the sleeve. The Magura slave cylinder, however, slides into the mounting sleeve - but does NOT have a nut: the tension from the clutch actuation arm pulling on the metal Magura slave cyl tip end is apparently supposed to keep the Magura slave cylinder tight in the mounting sleeve. Q: Will the Magura slave fit in to the mounting sleeve easily, stay tight, and is there any adjustment needed in order to keep the 4-6mm of freeplay that Magura recommends? How easy is it to get the Magura slave fitted into the sleeve and the metal tip in place? Is there enough freeplay between slave and tip end to mount in actuating arm AND the holding sleeve, so that the holding sleeve doesn't need to be unbolted? 2. The stock clutch cable and OEM setup runs out of the mounting sleeve (see pics marked "metal starts", and then runs through a metal sleeve that routes the cable through the engine compartment - keeping the cable away from the hot parts of the engine case, so as not to melt the cable insulation (I believe). That metal sleeve is about 6-8 inches in length. The Magura clutch cable, on the other hand, exits the Magura slave cylinder at an angle - yet has no such metal routing. I don't think the OEM metal routing sleeve will accept the Magura cable either, so a) the OEM metal routing sleeve would have to be removed first before installing the Magura - and then b) you have to hope that the Magura cable can be routed in such a way with zip ties holding the hydraulic line that line will not touch or be close to the hot metal engine casing as you route it through the engine. Q: how easy was it to get the OEM clutch cable and metal routing sleeve out? Easy as unscrewing the nut on the other end of the OEM cable, on the other side of the black rubber cable flange in my pics? 3. My stock clutch pull isn't bad. I just like the feel of a hydro clutch. Any feedback on how much better feeling and easier pull will be with the Magura? What's your feedback on the difference? FYI, I'm leaving my clutch plates and springs stock.

I have a rieju mrx pro and My clutch worked fine until i changed the intake manifold and reed valves. there was a holder for the clutch cable screwed in between the intake manifold and the intake manifolt bolts. When i took the intake off the clutch cable holder went off and the cable disconnected from the clutch arm. when i put the new intake on i put the holder in the same spot it was before and connected the cable to the clutch arm. When i tried pulling the lever it had no resistance.When i tried to ride it i started the bike up, pulled in the clutch lever and put it in gear and it stalled even though the lever was all the way in. i think it doesnt disengange. But it doesnt make sense why it doesnt work becouse i didnt touch the clutch arm and and connected it the same way it was before

I just replaced my Honda 200r clutch it seems like it is still slipping and doesn't have as much acceleration. Did I not adjust the springs correctly or what?

My DRz400S does VERY hard load “clicks” when I go from neutral to any other gear. I have tried adjusting cable, changing oils, checking the basket, changing clutch plates for new ones, adjusting the chain tension, verifying the cam chain timing and I still have the issue. Whenever I change from one gear to another, speacially downshifting, the bike makes a very loud sound of metal smashing. Otherwise the bike runs perfect. I do not know if it is the transmission or what else, I hope not. I putted the bike on the stance, and tried changing gear there to see if the sound was coming from the chain, but the sound comes from the transmission close to where the front sprocket is located. I am honestly desperate since I don’t find a solution anywhere! Could someone please help me. i do have a video of what the bike does, but I cant upload it here. Also while in the stance, I noticed that when I let go of the clutch while in a gear, the tire starts spinning, but when I pull the clutch back in the tire slows but keeps spinning for a long time. If I put it on neutral it stops much faster. Again, I have played with the clutch cable on the upper side and on the bottom side as well, so its definitely not the cable or free play. Not the oil, and not a defective/ old clutch plates(they are new). I also tried using the bike to “let the clutch” adjust a little, but nope, nothing good came out.

I ride a yz250f 2010 with an auto clutch (as I picked it up 2nd hand) and have come across the clutch lever having no feedback. Is this normal? It feels as if the clutch lever is just floppy and if I pull it in it has no tension. Any help would be great 🙂

I put in a new tusk clutch, springs, and gasket on my quad and get it all together and go to ride it and it’s slipping through all gears. What could the problem be?

I just rebuilt my 2017 kx100 and the shift shaft broke so I was going to replace it but I can’t because the clutch hub and basket won’t come off. I don’t know why? I took the nut off and everything but it won’t come off. Any solutions or how to take it off??? Thanks!

So I destroyed the clutch in my drz 400 due to excessive fanning and being geared too high trying to climb hills that atvs were flipping over backwards. I think weak springs may have played a contributing factor. This clutch lasted over 40 000km and has never been touched before. got past the knarlyest section and had to slip the clutch a bit going up another steep part when the bike started revving up and not moving much faster. I immediately shut it down for 45 minutes and upon restarting it the clutch was engaging enough I could ride it out of the bush back to the gravel road (about 15 km) and on the gravel road it lost all engagement and had to get towed about 25 km here’s the carnage.... I now have a new wiseco forged basket and barrett Kevlar clutch and steels and springs as well as a new pressure plate from Suzuki, what I’m wondering is can I re-use the bearing on the pressure plate? The rod is in good shape but it looks like the bearing got pretty warm . Also the bearing on the nut that holds the basket in place looks to be black also. Neither one is tight I’ve ordered new parts from Suzuki but could be a couple months before I see them and riding season will be half over where I’m at. do you think I’d be ok to put it back together with the existing parts and just replace the bearings when they arrive? Thanks for the input! I have two Drz’s, may pull the clutch cover on the other one for comparison

Hello, i have bought few weeks ago a clutch lever of MIDWEST for my ktm enduro 690 2008 year , after the replacement i have notice that the shifting is not as smooth as it was with the original shift. time to time it can be hard for a second to shift a gear but a quick release and pressure will resolve it , it may be my squeeze strength but i have no such experience with the old original clutch level of magura . anyway the old cluch lever was having a spring attached to it , in the instruction of the new clutch there is a statement to disregard the spring from the setup. may it be that the old clutch was more smooth because of it ? also when adjusting the midwest clutch lever i notice that if i squeeze the bolt in the front to much my clutch start slipping at high speed as it was squeezed . my question would be : is anyone experience such problems or similar with that clutch lever (it seems like it not fully COMPATIBLE with the bike) ? i own ktm enduro 690 , 2008 model

im trying to replace my clutch plates and my crank case cover will not come off its stuck above the oil filter the whole case is open expect above the oil filter. I've tried hammering around the case I hammered the metal studs around the case to slowly open it but the one stud broke don't want to break the case I need help I want to ride!!!

2010 yz250f Alright, I was riding and I noticed that when I pulled in the clutch the bike still wanted to move. So I looked it up and found out that it could be your clutch basket or that it could be the cable needs adjusted. So I spent an hour adjusting the cable all different ways just to find out the the problem still occured. So I bought a whole new clutch with low hours used on ebay after I saw that my basket had some decently bad grooves and some nasty plates. Well I get it all installed and it seems as if the push rod is not going to Its full extent but I may be wrong. My cable like I said may need to be adjusted again because I bought a new one after I replaced everything. So guys, what are some signs that I need to buy a new push rod? Are they a pain in the ass? Should I just have my mechanic do it for I was thinking $100?

Hi there, About two days ago I broke my pinky finger on my left hand, playing basketball. Now I possibly have surgery tomorrow. My question is, do you think it would be ok to ride with on the weekend if its only strapped? its pinky finger so it just sits on the bars just holding on, no clutch use for it. I assume I couldn't do too much of anything to it if I'm just going easy riding on open farmland? Been riding with my broken toe the day after I broke it, and just had an x-ray on it today to make sure it's all good. Its fine, so I'm hoping that you guys would have any advice on if I should ride this weekend?

I have a 03 yz 125 i dont know much about clutches but for some reason when i pull in my clutch and downshift ( or upshift either one ) the bike jumps as if i didnt pull the clutch in. Its weird I adjusted the cable on the lever but never checled the actual clutch it self. Now if i only pull the clutch in all the way it works as normal but i just doesnt make any sence to me on why it only works when i pull it in halfway someone help it would be much appreciated.

long time lurker but first post and figured theres no better place to ask than here. my wife is looking for a new sport style quad. for the last 2 years shes been riding a polaris trailblazer 250 2 stroke thats a auto cvt trans and its been great but it belongs to my sister (quad lives with me though lol). she likes the automatic polaris but dosent like the poor handling and how heavy it is (460lbs!) and the thing rides like a frickin brick! im a dirtbike guy so when it comes to recommending a quad for her im not sure. shes never used a clutch before or actually shifted gears with her foot but is willing to learn. we ride mostly at a local orv park that has some sand pits and nice trails. so what do i buy her? my buddy i ride dirt bikes with also has a quad so it would be nice if i got her a quad that i could rip as well. i have it somewhat narrowed down to honda 250ex with the rekluse style “sport clutch”, 300ex, 400ex, suzuki quadsport z250 with rekluse style “sport clutch”. she wants something to ride with us and deck out her own way. all are cheap and easy to come by were im at. thanks for any imput and suggestions!

I replaced the entire clutch on my dirt bike and I have some problems. I have a 2006 YZ85 and when I pull the clutch in and shift to first the bike takes off and when I give it throttle it goes like I don’t have the clutch in. If I rev it really high then the bike stops but once the rpms go back down it starts going again. And then if I’m just riding normally and pull in the clutch nothing happens and it just acts like the clutch isn’t pulled in. Could someone please help because I spent over $300 on all clutch parts and it still doesn’t work

PROBLEM SOLVED. Please read my second post (below) for my error and the correction. Coming shortly. Well, my new kickstart worked flawlessly when I tested it yesterday after its brand new installation on my 2016 SM. I had it in neutral and kicked it to life with a heartfelt "hallelujah". Today, when I go for my first ride, I fire it up (first kick!), I go to pull in the clutch and put it in gear (which I did not try yesterday), and the clutch lever is limper than Elton John at a Miss America pageant. It pulls straight to the bar with zero resistance. The cable is intact, and I can watch it actuate the little clutch release shaft that enters the case as I pull the lever, but there is no tension on the cable. So I'm fairly certain there is no lever or cable problem. FWIW, I feel confident in my kickstart installation, but I must have dropped the ball when I reinstalled the clutch. To be honest, it was my first time tearing down/reinstalling a dirt bike clutch, and I used the TT FAQ Clutch Maintenance & Inspection guide and I feel pretty good on it, too. I tightened down my 6 clutch springs evenly, made sure the inner friction plate was the larger inner diameter plate. I used my clutch sleeve holder and a torque wrench and tightened the nut to 50lbft. I plan on inspecting the two inner "washers" (shudder springs) that fit at the base of the clutch sleeve, but I don't think they have any bearing on clutch lever tension let alone disengagement. So I'm after what would cause the spring tension to fail prohibiting disengagement of the clutch. Any suggestions on what to inspect? Anyone who has installed a kickstarter have an immediate clutch problem like mine?

I'm starting to rebuild the engine and crank of my XR400R, cracked open the case a few days ago and noticed lots of metal shards throughout the bottom end. Clutch basket has massive piece that has come off, broken in pieces, and become stuck under the oil screen. Has anyone come across this issue with an XR, and know of why it may have happened? There's still metal throughout the crankcase, so if anyone has techniques for cleaning it out that's important too.

Just thought everyone should know what i went through encase they are considering motion pro clutch cables. Needed to replace a clutch cable. Bought motion pro cables off of amazon. They needed to be tightened down all the way with no slack on the line just to pull the clutch off enough to change gears. Even then the clutch was crazy heavy and hard to pull in. Decided to buy oem clutch cable. The difference was night and day. slack in the line still could change gears and the clutch felt like a feather. So if your in need of a new clutch cable stay away from motion pro at all costs.

putting in new clutch stack height torqking the clutch hub nut down and the thing pops now the clutch shaft is free spin any one know what I broke and what it takes to fix

Just got my new toy in the mail, took about 7 weeks to arrive from down under. This is the mod I am most excited about. Although the L is a big heavy DS I have been riding it more and more in tighter and increasingly harder to ride terrain. I love the idea of being able to have three fingers wrapped around the grip and just the index on the clutch. The other issue for me is that after upgrading the clutch and putting the Barnett HD springs in it's a good bit harder to pull. Not a big deal on a short ride but after even a couple hours in the woods my left hand is about done. The is supposed to make it 75% easier to pull and only with one finger. Just waiting for my new fatbars to arrive then I'll get it installed and give a quick review.

Wasn't sure wether or not to post this in the off-road or mx but whatever. so, when i'm trying to shift my bike (ktm with the hydrolic auto adjusting clutch) i use all my fingers which is a habit i'm trying to get out of. but when i only use two or one finger i can't pull the lever in to the bars. so now the main question IS IT OKAY TO NOT PULL THE LEVER ALL THE WAY TO THE BARS WHEN SHIFTING?