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Hello, I recently purchased a 1998 Suzuki DR350SE. I was going to order a few parts for it and noticed on all OEM part finders they list different models for that year. Examples, model V, model W and model X. My question is how can I tell what model I have? Not seeing it on the frame or the title. Thanks!!
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Hey, Im working on my Dr and have started to replace my chain and sprockets. There’s about 2-3mm of play between the front sprocket and the retaining circlip. As in it can slide up and down the shaft. Is that normal? I’ve got three sprockets that I got with the bike and they are all the same width. From the parts diagrams and clymer book it doesn’t look like there’s a spacer of any kind missing but that seems like a lot of free play?
- 6 replies
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- Sprocket
- driveshaft
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I am doing a stunt build on a 2015 DR200s I don’t wanna use the drum brake tbh I don’t trust it and it’s not working to well when at balance point (I tighten it and it just locks up or won’t go where it needs too plus I’m doing a handbrake in the future for seat standers.) I need to know what swing arm will fit the dr200, I think the dr250 swing arm will fit and it also allocates for disc brake because the 250 uses disc, If I am right this conversion will cost me 650, ( not including hand brake. ) I wanna do this because I’ve never seen a stunted DR200s and I wanna be unique. I have the cash to do this I just don’t wanna buy the parts and then be out 650, I wanna buy it all at one time. (Handbrake after I get good with the foot brake after conversion) please and thank you all for the help. I just need to make sure before I buy, if not what will fit?
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Guys. My fiancee is dualsporting her DR650SE hard...but she is short (5.2" / 158cm) and bushpig is heavy. We manage to lower it for her so light offroading is possible and in most cases - fun. But she wants more and bushpig is just too heavy for her. As she is a DR fan-girl, I think of doing her a surprise and buy a DR350 - but will I be able to lower it for her? Does anyone did it with good results? How much it can be lowered?
- 3 replies
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- dr350
- shortrider
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Hey guys, Last time I rode my engine started making a loud ticking noise and losing power. Today I'm gonna drain the oil and take a look at the valves and the top end. I figured if I'm draining the oil I might as well make sure my shift drum bolt is in the right place and torqued properly. Only thing is I'm mechanically inexperienced and I can't find any good guides on how to get to the shift drum bolt, anyone have step by step instructions? I'm scared I won't put the bike back together properly.... I heard there were some detailed posts on the maximum suzuki forums but I don't have access yet as my registration is pending approval. Thanks guys, -Zamboni
- 5 replies
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- shiftdrumbolt
- dr350
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Hi, Background: I recently acquired a 1993 dr350s and I cannot fix a rich condition; I am about to purchase a TM33 pumper carb off of eBay but I hate when I am not able to figure something out. Hopefully someone here is able to give some insight! Tried: The bike is 100% stock. I have replaced the vacuum petcock with a standard one, and replaced every jet and rubber piece float and needle with OEM Suzuki pieces, triple checked float height, the idle, main jet, and choke valve and seat surfaces appear to all be in perfect condition, etc. Symptoms: With the bike fully warm and choke off, the bike idles highest with the idle mixture screw all the way lean and dies if any choke is applied. It also smells rich, does not hot start, spits black soot, and pops on deceleration, low power, etc. The only unusual thing is where the idle mixture screw pulls fuel from there are three little pinholes drilled straight through into the throat of the carb. They do not look OEM, and I tried to epoxy them shut but I think I rushed it and the gas ate my JB weld... are these factory or did someone try to correct an old vacuum leak with this? Thank you!
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Would Low disc brake fluid, in itself, cause a front disc brake to grab and lock up? I have a 96 DR350 and when I bought it the guy told me that the front brake fluid was low, but I kept forgetting to buy some (Dot-4). I've been riding the bike for almost 2 months and it's been doing great, no complaints. But last time I rode it I did notice that the front brake wasn't as good as it normally was. Well I took it for a ride today and got about a quarter mile down the road at about 35mph and started to notice a slight surging grab on the bike, couldn't figure out why so I slowed down to pull into a driveway and as soon as I hit gravel it locked up and I tucked it and tipped over (I can't remember for sure, but I might have tried to use a little front brake as I pulled in). the front brake lever felt tight and wouldn't pull and the brake stayed locked on the wheel (not totally locked up but mostly) for just a minute or so and the disc felt slightly warm but not hot by any means. after a couple minutes it opened back up and the bike would roll freely. So I rode back home slowly at about 5-10mph, stopping about 4 times and resting a minute or two so it would not get hot, I checked the disc every time I stopped and it barely felt a little warm to the touch but not hot and not even very warm, just slightly warm. The fluid level looks empty through the looking glass and after I got home the bike rolls free and fine. I suspect the low brake fluid caused the brakes to grab because it didn't have enough fluid in the system to keep them open. Does this sound like a reasonable scenario for the brake grabbing and locking up?...Low fluid alone as the culprit? Sounds probable to me I was just looking for input. I didn't know that would happen just because of low fluid, I thought the brakes just wouldn't work if the fluid got too low. But it seems that the fluid not only compress's the brakes but also keeps them open when you let off the lever.. is that correct? I've owned many bikes but have never had any brake problems before with any of them and never even had low fluid in any of them before best I can recall. Will low fluid cause this on it's own? the brake pads are fairly new (2 months old with daily use). I just took the wheel off last week and changed the tire and while the rim was bare I put it on a rim jig and checked the rim for trueness, warping and concentricity as well as checked the disc. Everything checked out fine last week. Low fluid was the only issue I could find with the bike, won't be able to purchase any Dot-4 until tomorrow. I believe it would be sufficient to drain, flush, fill and bleed the brake and it should be fine after that best I can tell. Thanks for any 2nd opinions going on the info I've given.
- 26 replies
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- dr350
- frontdiscbrake
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I have had this Dr350 for a few months wasn't running cleaned the carb it was running for a few days then it stopped. I need help!!!
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I have a 92 DR350s and the head seal is leaking on it, anyone know of any rebuild kits available for this model? Or does anyone know what other model years would be compatible to bolt onto this bike?
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Going to be camping in St Johnsville, NY next weekend at Crystal Grove and dragging the bike up with me from NJ... I'll be out exploring on Sunday, 6/4. Any locals wanna show me some trails?? or if anyone has recommendations on where I should ride, please let me know. Thx!
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I recently sold my 1993 DR350S dual sport to my not-so mechanically inclined newbie friend rider. Bike slowly consumes a bit of oil and hadn't had a change in a while, he didn't think to check and ran it out of oil til it died. Hauled the bike home to find out it had a few shot glasses of oil in the entire case. The camshaft ground into its groove in the head, making sharp metal edges and shavings that were chipping off in my fingers. Cams were scored and completely deformed. Piston and cylinder looked okay, albeit to my somewhat untrained eye. Clutch looked fine and he was able to downshift and coast to a stop so I assume the trans is acceptable at least, maybe it survived because they had oil in the bottom and lasted longer than the top...? Since wherever the camshaft was sitting was basically shredded, is it safe to assume it'll need new a new head and cover, and obviously a camshaft? is there any chance a shop could file down the damage as it seems the shaft left behind most of it's metal and "welded" it to the grooves? If not, as this seems highly unlikely, we were thinking of selling the frame and the engine bottom end/transmission (as untested/partially functional?) separately and trashing the top. Any advice on what action is most cost-effective?
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Hi all from Alaska and thank you for an awesome site!! I'm a new member but a long time lurker. I have a 1993 dr350 dirt model that I'm working on fixing sence I wrecked it as a kid. The issue I'm having is the carb sence I rebuilt it I can't get the bike to idle after warmed. I'm looking for any advice you all have. I also took the bike for a ride tonight very short but in gear I can't rev the bike at all and it stumbles but in nutral it revs fine. The idle is very high and I can't get it down. Thanks in advance mud.