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  1. Hi all, I have scoured the internet for any information on swapping KYB "SSS" fork cartridges into other KYB OC forks, namely into the KYB 48mm OC forks off the 2008 WR250F. Lots of info for swapping SSS cartridges into other brand forks, but couldn't find much on swapping into older/OC KYB forks. Just wanted to see if anyone has done this, or even whether this would be possible for mortals like me. Also, I'm aware that the OC forks can be valved to plenty suit my needs, just wanted to ask if the swap is feasible. First cry for help here, don't go too hard on me! Cheers👍
  2. I ordered a UFO full plastic kit from their website directly, OEM STYLE. (YAKIT301F-046) https://us.ufoplast.com/replica-plastics/15745-full-kit-8052135174301.html On the website it states that this kit would fit: - Yamaha YZ 125 2002-2005 - Yamaha YZ 250 2002-2005 Everything seems to be good appart from the fork guards... I received these fork guards: YA03803-04 https://us.ufoplast.com/replica-plastics/8044-fork-slider-protectors-white-046-yamaha-8052135089605.html FITS: Yamaha YZ 125 1996-2004 Yamaha YZ 250 1996-2004 I already sent them an e-mail regarding this, BUT my question here is: Would these 1996-2004 fork guards fit my 2005 YZ250? I don't want to remove them from the packaging in case they want me to return them for an exchange since they actually have another set of fork guards that states it fits a YZ250 2005 which looks a little different... Thanks!
  3. Hello, new here. Bike is a 2020 KTM 250 xcw tpi. I bought it end of last season and fitting the bike to my weight. I am swapping out to lighter fork springs and unsure about something and want to comfirm. When taking the cap off the rebound side the piston very slowly lowers into the fork tube, which makes sense as it's a rebound dampener. On the compression side the piston immediately drops, but it can also be pulled out with very little effort. Is this normal behavior for a compression dampener? If the compression adjustment was low and you take the cap off does it have memory of the setting? My engineer brain is telling me the adjustor is just opening closing a bypass valve but idk. I'm thinking maybe it has no oil or the compression setting is turned down all the way. Thoughts?
  4. Hey everyone, excuse me if this is a noob question. I just bought and am restoring my first motorcycle. It is a 1983 Honda XL600R and one of the fork caps is damaged. The OEM caps have a schrader valve on top, and I cannot find any OEM replacement other than used eBay pieces. my question: what is the purpose of the valve? I have seen for sale different caps but a lot of them don’t have the schrader valve. Is that part necessary or should I just go with the used eBay piece? Thanks!
  5. HI, I finally dared to tackle my 2002 CRF450R fork rebuild myself. Watched some youtube, got some tools / parts and went to work. After removing the forks, the outer tube and damper tube, I was expecting to be able to slide the spring right out. But the spring seems to be stuck. I tried to gently pull it out with a coat hanger wire hook to no avail -- something is holding on it. Also, after removing the damper bolt, I was expecting the damper rod to slide right out which it did not. You can tell I am getting nervous by now. do I know what I am doing ... etc So, I paused to make sure my youtube lessons are for this bike. I find the following marking at the forklug Question 1) Does this sounds like an OEM part (or equivalent) or previous owner has changed to a different set of forks. More search on "stuck spring" suggested removing fork lug which seems to be over my head. See Question 2) Do I need to remove the spring or just leave it be. Obviously I won't get to inspect it, but I am not planning on jumping 50 ft in the air with this bike. Question 3) Does the spring stays in one fixed position and simply compress/decompress? Or it need to be free to move up and down. I think one end of the sprint is fixed which must be the fork lug side. Thanks ... threading carefully Medi
  6. Yeah I get this wheel wobble when I am doing stoppies at high speeds. I could hold them longer it's just my wheel feels like it's going to cave. Does anyone have any experience with this or know what I should do. I have yet to figure out my suspension set up the firm front end feels much better doing stoppies but a softer front end feels better going fast. What should I do?
  7. Hi I have minirocket hurricane pitbike and there are no screws on top or bottom of the forks. There is one at the top witch when i screwed out there was a rubber seal and oil underneath. No screws anywhere else. Is there any way how to adjust the forks without buying new spring ?
  8. Hey, I'm trying to take a couple of inches out of wrf426 forks (going on a different bike, I know there are plenty of opinions about spring rates, pros cons etc so don't start... 😂) The springs are already cut and shaped, a nice job though I say so myself. I can't get to where I think the spacer needs to go. Dark grey ferrule (1st pic) stops you removing the rod to get inside. Rebuild videos of other forks they just slide this through. What am I missing? Many thanks, Sam
  9. Hi, I picked up a good looking set of forks out of the landfill this afternoon and am wondering what they might be. My suspicion is that they are 47mm showa forks off a Honda CR something, however, I would like to rebuild them and need to know a bit more info so I can order parts. If someone could take a look at the pics and help me out that would be great. Fork tube is 47mm, top clamp tube is 53mm and the lower clamp is 58.5mm (roughly)
  10. I have a yz250f front forks disassembled and the regular little thing that sticks out to remove the base valve is not there. How do I take it out. Does anyone have a link to the tool because I’m pretty sure I need a tool.
  11. On my tc125 I have about roughly 40-50 hours on my airforks and when I go to pump in air the gauge on my wp air pump won’t go past 7.10ish bars and then proceeds to drop constantly and I am not able to reach my 8.5 bar of air. Is it the forks? Or the pump has gone bad. What can I do to fix this issue? Thanks, also even when I could pump up to the right pressure I could never get the pressure gauge to settle at a specific level it always slowly drops what’s up with that?
  12. Hello, I'm new to bikes, I just bought my first one. I'm getting used to it, but I noticed the fork seals were leaking slightly and appear to be weather cracked, so I ordered a rebuilt kit for the seals. It is an all balls fork seal kit, I read they are pretty good. However I have little experience working on bikes thus far, I was wondering if I would be able to tackle this by myself with the proper tools and some spare time. I am mechanicly inclined enough to learn, and understand what I'm doing so I'm confident but, I'm not sure if there is any difficult parts of the process. Also if anyone has any pointers as far as small things to keep an eye on, this bike runs really mint and starts up first few kicks every time and I'd really love to keep her that way! Thanks in advance guys and gals
  13. I have a 2011 KX250F but the forks do not seem to be the correct type for this year. Anyone know what year of forks these would have come off of?
  14. Sup everyone, I have just finished a rebuild on my AER 48s. For about 10 hours of riding the fork fully returned to its open position (fully rebounded). Then, all out of a sudden, it wont fully rebound. Any clues?
  15. Another thread about the infamous fork swap. I've done quite a bit of research and am still trying to figure out the "best" way to go about doing this. some background: I own a 2000 Drz400 (kickstart only, similar to the E), and want "newer/better" looking forks. I plan on painting the frame, plastics, wheels, etc. and sumoing it out, and I don't want the gaiters and stuff on the forks. I know I could take them off, but they are there for a reason and don't want to deal with whatever comes with removing them. The next best thing I believe is swapping forks (feel free to lmk if you have any other ideas). I am looking for definitive answers. Assuming we are using RM parts for the swap(cheaper than drzSM), my questions are: 1. What effect will this have on handling and are there any downsides in doing this? 2. All I need is forks and triples correct? Any rear suspension parts? 3. What is the exact year fork/triple combination that is best for this? 98, 99, 00, 01, 02, 03, 04, 05+? 4. If this is done, what all needs to actually be done? Swap the triple and forks out, then what? Change the oil and seals, springs, etc? 5. This is safe for the most part... right? Safety always comes 1st for me, then fun, and money + looks is tied for third. If there is any walk through for this exact process, please link it. If not, I will make one step by step with pics, vids, and review. Here are the links that I have read, and found helpful:
  16. I am going to replace the fork seals on some 05' CRF 450R forks and have 2 different viscosity oils. Since the damper assembly takes X amount of fluid and the fork tubes take X amount of fluid, one quart won't be enough. Since I have heard or observed the oil in the fork tubes is simply for lubrication and not alot more, would it be safe to run the 7w in the fork tubes and the 5w in the damper? Or should I run 7w in the damper and 5w in the tubes, I know manual calls for 5w HP which appears to be 17 @ 40 so the 5w Bel Ray is about spot on. I am not launching off any major sweet jumps like Pedro and Napoleon(more than likely little stuff, maybe some smaller doubles but mostly trail riding) Also some supermoto stuff running another set of wheels and street tires. I am about 150 and have been known to hit 160lbs when I really let myself go. I have 2 sealed quarts of oil. Bel Ray high performance fork oil, 5w(17.1 @ 40) - 1 quart of this. Bel Ray high performance fork oil, 7w(29 @ 40) - 1 quart of this I also have 2 sealed quarts of 15w Bel-Ray, but its older than 5 years and will have to be tossed out more than likely. I know I could also run some 0-20w motor oil in the outer fork tubes if I wanted to. Was more curious of any advantages or disadvantages on where I should put the 7w, I am thinking with my riding style, surfaces and weight probably the 5w in the damper is what I should run and the 7w in the fork tubes. Thanks!
  17. I was going to service my forks with new oil and new seals that I had laying around and went to soften the rebound screw like I always do and believe that I went a turn too far. it clicks but doesn’t stop. I’ve taken the inner tube out and used a flat head screw driver to turn the D shaped push rod and it will stop like the clicker is on it going clock wise with the-flathead but going counter cw it does not. Any advice on what happened? I know I need to replace the adjuster screw since it won’t stop on the soft setting but where the push rod sits in the oil chamber or piston type thing is that messed up? Thx in advance
  18. The oem bushings were tight and hard to take off. I took them off to replace them with new pivot works bushings so I carefully expanded the bushing and got it on easy without stretching it at all and now the bushing is not even as tight. Do these need to be tight on there? I put it on the only way it could go and it seems like the gap in the bushing got bigger.
  19. Good morning everyone happy new year, does anyone know or have mounted the 41 mm forks of the Honda xr350 r of 1985 onGood morning everyone happy new year, does anyone know or have mounted the 41 mm forks of the Honda xr350 r of 1985 on the honda xr 350 r of 1983 that mounts the drum brakes? the honda xr 350 r of 1983 that mounts the drum brakes?
  20. Moderators relocate if needed I know someone on here has the answer and possibly the parts I need. I bought on Craigslist a WR426 street legal with 17’s and also the stock wheels. I gave $950 for it so you know it needed some work. I have went through most everything on the bike so far and it’s about 90-95% now. I have been trying to find replacement fork caps for it, one cap has been rounded off from wrong wrench or something and the other has a frozen clicker that I cannot free up. I have changed the springs for my weight and bushings/seals ,oil by using channel locks carefully on the outside edge. I cannot play with the settings because of the clicker and the rounded one drives me nuts looking at it. What years/models will interchange? I don’t think they are worth what eBay wants for used ones, like 75% of new, the only fair prices so far have been for only 1 and I want the pair. I have posted here on the classifieds but no response because I think everyone is there looking to buy. So let me know what other models I can look to for replacement, much thanks in advance.
  21. I just picked up my front shocks from being serviced by Rocky Mountain ATV. I noticed the sound of oil trickling in one of them when I picked it up after it had been inverted. I know there is air in the system, but I do not remember them making that sound before they were serviced. Is this okay? Is it normal?
  22. Attempting to change the fork seals due to a leak in one fork on my 1984 Honda XR500R with Showa mg3-771 forks. My dust seals don't look anything like the youtube videos, photos, forums that I have researched. Also researched this specific fork and found nothing. Also I can only find information about models relatively close to my bike(XR350, XR400, XR600), but not exact. My dust seals seem to be permanently attached to the inside of the fork tube, probably some adhesive and has a foam ring underneath it that is deteriorating, hence the leak. Anyone have any ideas how to change the fork seals without removing the dust seal? Also noticed that the foam ring should be under the white plastic washer, not on top of, when compared to my other fork tube that is not leaking. Left Fork: Leaking, foam ring on top of white plastic washer Lef Right Fork: Not leaking, foam ring under white plastic washer
  23. Changing out my fork oil on a new to me 650l. What's generally recommended for stock springs and valving?
  24. lookin to upgrade my suspension on my 06 cr250, curious whats possible with some work.
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