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Found 21 results

  1. Anyone out there got the Acerbis 3.9 gal S-model fuel tank on their bike? Please post pics! I've been all over the web but have never seen a picture of one on a bike. I like the look of it (much more so than the Clarke) but am concerned about width and am guessing it sticks out past the seat in terms of width (they have to get their capacity somewhere). I like the ergos of the stock tank but want to go to plastic; extra fuel capacity is a bonus. I'm considering the IMS 3.2 gal but am concerned about fit-and-finish and colour variability of the natural. Comments please!
  2. I was told by the shop that this was an IMS tank. Well, I called IMS to buy the mounting hardware and after seeing the hardware I'm realizing it isn't IMS. I'm having a tough time finding good pics on different manufacturer's websites. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  3. Considering buying the IMS 4.0 or the Clarke 4.7 fuel tanks for my XR. My stock tank can't go far at all. Anyone care to share their fuel range with whatever tank they're running? I've heard 220 miles with the 4.7 which seems a bit optimistic considering I get 60-70 miles with my stock tank. My biggest concern is whether the tank will impede my movement on tight technical trails. I've also heard horrible stories of Clarke's customer support. Alternatively, I've considered buying a few 32oz fuel canisters and packing them on the back of the bike. But I'd hate to lose the storage space if aftermarket tanks won't impede my movement. If anyone has a used tank for sale I'm likely interested.
  4. As most of us are aware, the 03-07 fuel tanks have a 2.2 gal capacity plus a 0.4 gal reserve (2.6 gal total). The 07 and up fuel tanks have a 1.9 gal capacity plus a 0.4 gal reserve (2.3 gal total). I've been eyeing the Clarke tank which is advertised as having a 2.9 gal capacity but it isn't clear if this is the total capacity or if there is additional reserve on top of that 2.9 gal. Does anyone have any data on the Clarke tank and the presence (or lack) of a reserve capacity? I suspect I can find an OEM 03-07 tank for much cheaper than a new Clarke tank and if it's a comparison of 2.6 gal vs 2.9 gal, the cost savings may be worth it. Additionally, by expanding out the 03-07 OEM tank, I may be able to get that 0.3 gal delta down to zero. But if the Clarke tank also has a 0.4 gal reserve (just throwing out a number), I'd definitely be going for it. Anyone have any info?
  5. Note: While this article has a significant focus on vacuum petcocks, it also has some important information if you are considering changing out your OEM fuel tank or replacing your Petcock: see “Factors to consider” further on in the article. The biggest issue: The OEM petcock on the S and SM (and maybe the E in other parts of the world) uses engine vacuum to open and close the petcock valve and thus control the fuel flow from the tank. It has known failures whereby it fails to shut off fuel flow when the bike is off, which can flood the engine with fuel over time, filling the crankcase with fuel, and completely diluting the engine oil, etc. (bad outcome). Alternatively, it has failure modes where it will not allow fuel to flow in ON or RES. Background detail on the OEM petcock: The S and SM OEM petcock has three positions: ON, RES, and PRI. (See the "comparison" photo below) It has two hoses connected: one carries fuel from the petcock to the carb and one brings engine vacuum from the engine. In the ON and RES positions, fuel flows from the petcock to the carb only when the engine is running. Normally, there is sufficient fuel in the carb float bowl for the engine to start. The PRI position allows fuel to flow continuously, without vacuum, and is normally used to "prime" the carb float bowl after carb removal, as the float bowl would be dry, unable to start, and thus wouldn't create enough vacuum. Failure One: No fuel or inadequate fuel in ON and RES, runs fine in PRI: From the description of the valve function you just read you can probably figure this one out: either there is no vacuum getting to the valve to open it when the engine is running, or the petcock has failed internally and the vacuum is not opening the valve. You can test by pulling the vacuum line off at the nipple between the carb and the engine, and pulling the fuel line off at the carb. Apply slight vacuum to the vacuum line (if you are sucking…make sure you put the correct line to your lips…ha) and see if fuel flows. If so, then the vacuum port between the carb and the engine must be blocked. If not then replace the vacuum line with another line and repeat, to see if the hose is blocked (or cracked/split). If it still fails, then the petcock is not opening the valve with vacuum and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Failure TWO: Petcock fails to stop fuel flow when engine off and engine floods with fuel, diluting the engine oil: This petcock failure can occur in two ways: first, it can fail so that fuel always flows to the carb. This is initially not so bad, as the float in the carb float bowl floats up when the float bowl fills, and has a valve that closes against an o-ring when full, UNLESS it fails to close; then the float bowl overfills, fuel runs down the carb throat into the engine, leaks past the piston, and fills the engine oil sump. Second failure mode: the diaphragm in the OEM petcock can fail, which allows fuel to flow through the petcock and into the vacuum line, which runs directly to the carb throat on the engine side, and takes the shortcut to filling the engine with fuel again. Summary: The OEM vacuum petcock can be rebuilt, and many riders have never had an issue. It is super convenient to simply turn off the bike and walk away, without the need to remember the fuel shutoff. However, sufficient numbers of riders have experienced the "engine full of gas" failure to make replacing it with a manual petcock worth considering. Rebuild kits: I could not source one from Suzuki, but found two that look like they would work: Moose racing 0705-0352, and K&L kit 18-5038. The Manual Petcock option: A commonly installed solution is to install a manual petcock, which requires the operator to switch the fuel OFF every time they leave the bike. There are a number of useable manual petcocks, which by definition, are not vacuum operated. These petcocks have three positions: ON, RES, and OFF. (See the comparison photos below) There is no vacuum line connected to the petcock, and fuel always flows to the carb in ON or RES. The advantage of these petcocks is that their bases are identical to the OEM and thus mate easily with the tank. The disadvantage of putting a manual petcock on your S or SM, is that when bike falls over and stalls, fuel will continue to flow to your carb. Factors To Consider: Nothing is ever easy, there are a couple of things to consider when selecting a replacement petcock, AND WHEN REPLACING THE FUEL TANK with a different one (Stock to large plastic, or vice versa), besides quality of the product. A: Reserve quantity: The main fuel inlet in the tank is the one at the top of the brass standpipe on the petcock. When the fuel level drops below this point, the engine starves and you select reserve, which draws fuel from the other inlet at the very bottom of the tank. With any change of tank or petcock you will have to factor in/measure the impact on your reserve. Have another look at the comparison photo and you will note the very short standpipe on the ATV Raptor petcock: it has virtually NO reserve. I will discuss how to address this later in this article. B: Interference between petcock selection lever and tank lip: With the OEM tank (metal) there is a lip at the edge of the tank that hangs down. This lip can interfere with the movement of the selector lever to the straight up position, which is RES on most manual petcocks. The solution from Suzuki for the OEM petcock was to simply put a spacer between the petcock and the tank, and to design their petcock so that the selector is not required to be set pointing upwards. You have two basic ways to deal with this issue if you use a metal tank and wish to substitute the petcock: use the OEM spacer that came with the OEM petcock (see image below), and/or remove the tip of the selector lever so that it can be turned straight up without contacting the lip. This issue does not arise with plastic tanks. C Fuel line routing and interference with choke operation: replacement petcocks frequently have the fuel line nipple out the right side, instead of the bottom as on the OEM petcock. In addition, alternative fuel tanks frequently have the petcock physically located lower than when on the OEM steel tank. This can create two challenges: how to route the fuel line to the carb, and in some cases how to address problems with interference with the choke control. D: Vacuum line from Carb: If you install a manual petcock, you need to block the vacuum line from the carb. Either cut a small piece of the vacuum line and put a screw into it and push it on the vacuum nipple between the carb and the engine, or get a rubber cap and push this on. E: Mounting bolt length: depending on the tank and petcock and use/not use of spacer you will likely need to replace the mounting bolts with ones that are longer/shorter to avoid bottoming them out or not having enough threads engaged. Alternative Petcocks: There are quite a number of manual and vacuum petcocks on the market, and each has to be considered for the install challenges it may create. I will specifically discuss the OEM "E" petcock, the Raptor petcock, and the Pingle. Here are some comparison photos: note the orientation and location of the fuel outlets, and the length of the reserve standpipe. Note also that I have placed the Pringle petcock, with images, after this section. OPTION ONE: The Suzuki OEM petcock for the DRZ400 “E” in North America: The Suzuki OEM petcock for the DRZ400E appears to have the same reserve standpipe as the OEM petcock for the S or SM, and it is not vacuum operated, and might be the easiest/best solution as you would not have to alter the reserve standpipe to address the reserve quantity issue as you will with the Raptor. It does have the fuel line nipple out the bottom but is oriented to the right side, so that may present some challenges or advantages, depending on the tank/carb combo you are putting it on. Additionally, it may require the spacer or tab modification to get the selector lever to clear the lip on a stock steel tank. OPTION TWO: The ATV Raptor Petcock: How to adapt the Raptor for use: Once again, nothing is EVER easy: First, the Raptor fuel nipple is on the right side, and the OEM on the bottom, as in the "comparison" photo, so you will have to assess the fuel line routing and petcock position for interference with the choke. Note that the Clarke 3.9 tank and the Raptor petcock seem to fortuitously be made for each other....ha ha...the fuel outlet on the Raptor lines up perfectly with the fuel inlet to the carb so a short straight hose is all that is needed, AND the choke operates perfectly. See photo that follows. If you are considering the Raptor for an OEM Steel tank then you will have issues with the choke and fuel line. Eri Marquez has proposed a method to modify the Raptor petcock to solve this: Raptor Petcock and Steel Tank Mod Second Issue: The Raptor has a very tiny reserve. The Raptor petcock from Yamaha, which fits on the stock tank or on the plastic tank just fine however it is designed for use on ATV's, which have big flat tanks, rather than the upright tanks that we have on bikes. As a result, the Raptor petcock comes with a very short brass standpipe on the main intake. So, with the stock Raptor standpipe, you will have a very tiny amount of fuel remaining in the tank at that point, thus you will have virtually NO RESERVE. I have fixed this relatively easily, read on. To fix the reserve issue, I got some 7mm (no SAE equivalent size) brass tube at a model store, twisted the old reserve standpipe out (it is a press fit) , cut a 4.5 inch (11.5cm) length of the new tube, used a hacksaw to carefully make a slight kerf around the end of the replacement pipe to hold the lip of the OEM fuel filter on, rounded and emery clothed the end I was inserting into the petcock, froze the tube, and pushed it into the new Raptor petcock. This was superb, and resulted in a standpipe that is 4.1 inches (10.5 cm) above the flat mount face of the raptor petcock. It gives me a 1.5 Litre (0.4 US Gal) (30km/20mi) reserve on a Clarke 3.9 gal tank. (Note: tube is measured by outside diameter, pipe by inside diameter: you need exactly 7mm outside diameter to get this new tube to press fit into the petcock and seal and stay, thus the need for "tube" and not "pipe") By the way, the Clarke 3.9 US gal tank is an honest measure: the tank dispenses 14.7L (3.9US gal) of fuel to dry tank......but still has 1.7L (0.45 US Gal) of fuel in the right lobe. (tank actually holds 16.5L (4.4 US Gal) of fuel) If you lay the bike on the left side, pick up the front wheel and tip it to past level, this fuel crosses and is usable. So: with a 4.1inch (10.5cm) standpipe on the raptor petcock on the Clarke 3.9US Gal tank, you get 13.2L (3.5 US Gal) in the ON, 1.5L (0.4 US Gal) in RES, and a further 1.7L (0.45 US Gal)avail in the right lobe. The Pingel petcock option: Some folks have used the Pingel valve, which is a slightly higher cost, but apparently higher quality solution. Issues mentioned include: the valve must be assembled before mounting to the bottom of the tank on steel tanks as the tank lip does not allow for the manufacturers valve assembly instructions to be followed, and apparently the reserve standpipe is quite short, so the reserve fuel is very limited. 6191-AH61AV DRZ all years With a reserve Have fun!!
  6. So I have a 2007 DRZ with a vacuum petcock. Many people want to change this to a manual petcock - this is not cheap in the UK. This is a quick and easy way to convert the vacuum petcock into a manual one. First some background that might save others wasted time: I looked for suitable alternatives, and bought an aftermarket Yamaha RAPTOR which seemed to get a lot of positive write ups. But there are lots of issues with it! The diameter of the fuel outflow pipe is only 6mm on the Yamaha petcock (8mm on the old and the fuel intake into the Carb). Fuel pipes can only one internal diameter so this will immediately require an awkward mod! The length of the ‘ON’ fuel intake pipe is about half that of the original – so when you have to switch to reserve, you will have very little time to find fuel! The fuel outflow from the replacement Petcock is sideways and towards the Carb (where there is no space) as opposed to down (like the original) where there is plenty of space. (apparently if you have an oversize plastic fuel tank this is not a problem – but if you have an original metal one then it is). The quality is not as robust as the original Suzuki Here are the two side by side: So I looked for low cost alternatives, and could not see any….. so I took the vacuum petcock apart to see if it could be easily converted into a manual petcock. And weirdly it is really easy. Instructions for conversion: 1. You want to permanently close the vacuum valve. You can achieve this is various ways (you will need to seal the pipe coming out of the carb and the pipe going into the petcock). This was already done on my bike – the pipes were cut, and bolts glued in in order to seal them. NOTE: If you are happy with sealing the tubes then you will NOT need to unscrew the 5 screws that give access to the vacuum valve (the OPTIONAL step below) I chose to go one step further in the Petcock, and removed the light spring that keeps the vacuum valve closed and used some spare rubber (folded old innertube wrapped in tape) to create a plug the pressed the valve closed with more certainty. This was easy and took a few minutes. 2. You need to allow the switch to create alternate paths for fuel flow: Take the 2 screws out from the front of the switch, and take it off. The plate that has FUEL/ON/RES/PRI stamped on it, has a little lug at the top of the inner circle. You need to file that off, then put it back together. In the picture to the left, you can see what looks like a face. This is what you have achieved: The left eye socket- the main fuel comes down the pipe from above. It can then flow either towards the front or towards the rear. You have blocked the rear by disabling the vacuum valve (lighter colour silver in the photo). So this is now your Main fuel source ("ON"). The right eye socket is your reserve fuel source ("RES"). The only way to send fuel to your carb is to connect one of the eyes to the mouth. (You can see the left hand side of the mouth has a path that allows flow to the Carb - this was used for priming it before. Depending on which eye you create a path to, will affect if you are running ON or on RES). NOTE: The labels around the tap are now all misleading! see below. 3. The switch can now create different paths for the fuel to flow along. When it is pointing: UP fuel is ON (You are connecting the left eye to the mouth), DOWN and it is RES (You are connecting the right eye to the mouth) Pointing RIGHT it is OFF (there is no open path between either eye and the mouth). I have just put it all back together and tested it, and it all works exactly as described above, so this seems a very simple way to convert a petcock and appears to work fine.
  7. Anyone had any prior experience with this model? I've been doing a little research but struggling to find much. Looks like IMS and Acerbis are the two options. Has anyone used either on this model? The only reason I need one is the bike doesn't quite last a full 3-hour hare and hounds without needing some more juice which is a little annoying! I'm in the UK so anyone who knows the best way to get a bigger tank over here please shout. Seems most are in the states
  8. So i have a 2016 FC250 with the acerbis oversize tank, and it feels very wide. A friend with the exact same bike, only with an IMS tank rode mine and commented on its wideness as well. Anyone know the width of the IMS tank for this bike, so i have something to physically compare mine to? Thank you!
  9. Just a heads-up alert about all those manually operated petcocks on eBay and the web. Look for the only 1 or 2 out there with the outlet tube or nipple vertical downward and below it. All other 100 models on ebay have the outlet tube pointing right at the choke pull lever. This forces a tight turn which on some fuel hoses will shut the hose and reduce fuel by 80%. Also when removing and installing the tank the hose must first be removed, or its a struggle to get it past the choke pull knob. The knob could be damaged or rod bent. Attaching the hose on the petcock after the tank is in place is tough because of the sharp downward angle needed. Here are a couple of images. I tried 2 different hoses. The light color hose was a high pressure air-compressor hose, it went flat. The black hose is a 1/4" fuel injection hose and it did better. I ended up routing it in a circle forward then back to the carb. Im going to buy a new petcock with the downward tube next.
  10. Thought some of you might appreciated this recent product review by Contributing Editor, Monk.
  11. I've got a weird no start problem after cleaning the gas tank. I purchased a used 2013 this year and after a couple fill ups I noticed the fuel tank had some rust in it. It ran and functioned fine, but I had to take care of the rust. So, I cleaned the tank/pump and upon reassembly the bike won't start. I've confirmed fuel flow from the tank. The manual says the spec is 2.8 ounces after 5 pump cycles, and I'm getting about 3.5. I wonder if the injector could be clogged? Has anyone cleaned their injector? This is pretty baffling to me as nothing has been done to the bike other than removing the tank for cleaning. The only thing I can think of is injector, but if there are other ideas I'd love to hear them.
  12. Would someone please explain the function of the dirt bike fuel tank breather hose? I realize air has to enter tank from the top or a vacuum would form and fuel would not gravity-feed down to carb. But, then why don't street motorcycles have them? Is it because of the extreme sloshing dirt bike tanks get that precludes the use of street motorcycle gas caps, caps which are presumably designed to admit enough air to tank without a hose?
  13. After so many rides trying to empty it, I finally got it to reserve at 102 miles on the IMS 3.6. Probably add another 25 or more with what’s left. ‘17 te250
  14. Looking at longer rides where 2.5 won't reach to the next gas station. I've got the stock tank on my 2004 and don't want to switch out with an Acerbis 3.2 because I want to be able to keep the bike light for shorter rides, so I'm looking at external options like the rotopax, maybe a 2 gallon-er? Are the 2 gallons too big, or are there other options I don't know about? Thanks in advance.
  15. I have a Suzuki rm125 with the polisport restyle kit but I do not have the fuel tank and want a new fuel tank but I want one that will suit the new plastics does the Suzuki rmz250 fuel tank fit easily or is there a company out there that does a decent fuel tank or even an aluminium one?
  16. Would a 1997 XR250 fuel tank fit a 2003 XR250?
  17. Well, I had a learning experience this week. I was riding tough back country trails with friends, and in the most difficult section I ran into engine problems. I have a black Clarke 13.9 plastic tank, with a screw on cap with vent tube that extends straight up for 2 inches and has an aluminum valve on the end. I have a raptor petcock. At the time the tank was down to a few litres of fuel, the air temp was over 30 celcius, and we were making slow progress in very tough terrain. Engine temp was around 100F in the second rad, with the fan cutting in and out. It was HOT out. At one point I noticed fuel dripping out between the petcock and the tank, and at about the same time started having problems starting it, or getting it to run. Felt to me like it was flooding. Tightened up the two fasteners on the petcock mount which did little to stop the leak. After repeated stalls and very tough times to get it to start, and a number of good ideas and choice swear words, I finally unscrewed the cap to check for gas...and the cap nearly flew off as the tank vented a bunch of air out! I pulled the vent tube/dongle off the fuel tank cap, and the bike started and ran absolutely normally for the rest of the ride. The fuel leak immediately stopped. So....I checked the dongle and it currently functions one way only: air can get into the tank....but nothing is getting out! So...all that heat on a tank full of mostly air, with no way of venting the pressure out, led to the fuel being pressurized out past the oring at the petcock mount (my leak), and obviously overfilling the carb despite the best efforts of the float valve to stop the fuel, which caused the flooding and hard starting. My quick research indicates that these valves on short stems are designed to be one way...."so that fuel will not be vented out or splash out".... This means that any tank that is sealed with one of these has no method of venting pressure out of the tank when heated. What have you done to fix this? I am not too kene on putting on a long tube and directing it down into the engine or frame area. Has anyone modified the "dongle" to allow venting out of the tank as well as in?
  18. Designed to extend range, but maintain a slim feel and sleek look. 2.5 gallons total capacity. Screw cap or dry break filler options. Crosslink polyethylene for stength & durability. More Info
  19. Hi all, I picked up an Acerbis 4.1 gal fuel tank (#2140800147) for my 2005 CRF 450X off craigslist and need some help installing it. I'm confused on how to run the fuel lines from the wings and where they are supposed to tap in to the main lines. I know I'm supposed to use some T fitting but just not sure where to tap them into - the main or reserve line between the bottom tank outlet and the petcock? Or I found some information showing the wing fuel outlets should T in the fuel line between the petcock and the carburetor input? Can someone please help me and share pictures of your install, the manual, or describe how to install it? I have everything off my stock tank installed on the Acerbis and it's in place, I just need to figure out how to run the lines. Thanks!
  20. I searched the other dirt bike forums and could not find a definitive answer the question I pose below, so I'm trying this technical forum - When the manufacturer states in "specifications" for a particular bike that the bike has, say, a "Fuel Tank Capacity" of 2.0 u.s. gallons, and the separately states that the "Fuel Reserve Amount" is .50 u.s. gallons does that mean the .50 reserve is additional to the 2.0 gallon tank capacity, or that the reserve is a component of the 2.0 gallons?
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