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Showing results for tags 'kawasaki'.
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Long story short, my KX has been acting up lately, it seems like the jetting is constantly changing and will run lean even if i have the air screw in tight enough to foul a plug. Sometimes it runs perfectly fine, usually trail riding, but typically when I'm hill climbing or riding very hard i will get the idle surge when i let off the throttle. This makes me want to turn the air screw in to avoid a shattered piston from running lean but its not really solving the issue. Last weekend I raced and it ran great for the first 2 minutes, got the holeshot, then it just kept bogging, putting and popping until it died and did not want to start again. The one cover for the actuator rod for the powervalve was loose which i could not tighten without taking the cylinder off, could air be getting into the ratio from there even though exhaust was coming out? Also, this piston has a ton of hours on it. Someone recommended replacing the rings, as they could be worn and not keeping a great seal on the engine. Should i replace the rings, tighten the cover for the powervalve actuator, clean the carb and put it all back together or throw a new piston on now? I wanted to race this weekend which probably wont happen if I'm doing the top end rebuild. Also, if the top end is recommended, where do i start? the cylinder looks fine, do I have to get a (very slightly) bigger piston to make up for the worn cylinder edges? How do I know what piston to get and how do I know what size base gasket to replace it with? Any tips, thoughts, recommendations would be great thanks!
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Hi all, i recently bought a kx250f that had been pulled apart by the owner due to low compression and smoke. I have since put a new piston kit in but now the bike isn't starting at all. I have checked my valves and they seem alright, I just cant seem to get my timing exact, I was wondering wether it should still start and just not run nicely or if it will stop the bike from going at all? and if maybe the cam chain has stretched? any help would be sweet! cheers
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hey everybody I'm in need of wisdom and experience you all have to offer, have a dilemma, I have a 2001 kx250 running extremely well, but i have the itch to upgrade, I do mostly enduro riding, tight wood sections mainly and a few cross mountain trails, I'm unsure weather I should just invest in the kx250 and try turn it into a woods weapon or am I chasing my tale with that idea and should just upgrade to a proper enduro bike? looking for your take on it or if anyone has made a 250 2 stroke woods equipped was it worth it??
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I picked up a yz250f for a pretty good deal. All that was wrong was a bog off idle. I thought easy fix just need clean the carb and change some jets, not knowing what I was getting myself into aka the infamous bog that all these damn 250fs have. My current hypothesis on why it isn't working, the accelerator pump does not seem to be squirting any fuel at all. Today I cleaned the shit out of the acc pump blowing carb cleaner and air through all the passage ways, and leak jet. Both the o rings, and diaphragm are in great condition. Still no squirt. The bike came with a boyeson quick shot, and I'm thinking about upgrading to the quick shot 3 just to get rid of the hassle of changing out leak jets, which I am still not convinced is the problem as the leak jet is stock. I tried the o ring mod but since my acc pump isn't squirting it did absolutely nothing. If anyone has any suggestions or fixes to my problem it would be greatly appreciated. Dean
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Did kawasaki use asbestos in brake shoes during 1980 on the kdx 250 and 400s?
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Can i run to the same problem !?? I was watching these type of videos about Motocross Blow up and wondering why this happen ? is it related to the maintenance or just can happen by chance !?
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I'm looking for a programmer for 2013 kx250f Kawasaki. To adjust the fuel, electrical and to check for problems with the bikes? Don't know if there's one out there for this diagnostic testing but would like to buy one. I have purchased them before for jet skis. Thanks Everyone
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Tired of putting money into an old 2003 KX 250 that keeps breaking and isn't perfect for what I ride, has some upgrades but kills me every race from the suspension. I like the bike but just don't want to be the guy who puts $1000 into suspension to make it suitable. What does anyone think the best option would be? budget around $3000. 6ft 160lbs. Really interested in a crf 450x or a wr450, and I know it will be heavy for me to handle but I'm hoping the trail settings and suspension should compensate and still be better than my KX (and it would still be a fun powerful bike). Ideally I would want a 250f mx bike that already had the suspension work done, but that is rare. Is there a certain 250f to buy that would have the "best" stock mx suspension for the woods? Really want something reliable and newer (2006-2010ish) but I know I would be bored of a regular trail bike (KDX, 250x, TTR) after the first ride, and need something to be able to compete. I can deal with my 250 2Ts power but the 450x torque might be a bit much in the PA single track. KTM is an option, probably only a 2 stroke, but bikes newer than 2005 are fairly expensive and hard to come by. Any suggestions for a competitive woods bike for that budget would be great, thanks. -
Hey I've been looking at a Kawasaki KX450F lately, but I'm wondering if a 450cc is too much for me. I have a bit experience from dirt biking, but the problem is the gap. I have a 125cc 4 stroke "Chinese" bike that goes 70-80 Kilometers max. Used it everywhere, so I know how to use a dirt bike, but I'm not sure if it's really stupid to go from that garbage to a 450. A lot of power compare to mine. I'm not gonna ride much on tracks, but more on dirt roads and a bit in the forest. I'm 5,8 ft ish tall. Thank you for your time
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Hi ! I have a deal on 2 wheel with tire but i wonder if they would fit... so does 2 wheel from a kawasaki kx 80 1995 can fit on a kawasaki kx85 2001 ? Tire size are the same ! Thx !
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Hi, this is my first post on TT! I recently traded my PS4 for a 1998 KX250 with a "broken shift lever" the bike was unable to start due to it being freezing cold and stuck in gear. The reason the shift lever was broke was because the splines were completely worn. So right away, I bought a new shift lever. The old one was a bitch to get off as he had snapped the end of the bolt off to tighten the lever to the shift shaft. I ended up using a pickle fork to pry it off. Bit anyway. After putting on a nice, new shift lever, I was ready to get it running, only to unable to get it into neutral. Which wasn't really an issue. I figured I'd just bump start it. After several attempts, it didn't start, but I got it into neutral. After getting it into neutral, I couldn't get it back into gear. It just clicks about 7 times up or down and nothing happens. Now, I am able to get it in and out of gear, but only by clicking it randomly up and down so many times. I have no idea what gear it's going into, and it has no pattern. I already have the bike mostly tore apart. I plan on splitting the cases, I am just curious if someone can help me diagnose the issue, before I split the cases. Possibly worn shift forks?
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Hello, For this summer, I was looking for a project. As a desert/trial, and occasionally single track rider from Southern California, any time of the year works for a build like this. I grew up riding two-stroke and after a couple years on four strokes, I want to return to the enduro king. However, KTM and Husky sell their bikes for quite a high price tag. So, I have decided I want to take an older two stroke motocross bike i.e. cr250, yz250, etc., and make it the ultimate desert bike for significantly less than a new KTM. I am not loyal to one brand, but I have always loved Honda and spent a grand a month ago on all new gear with Honda's name plastered all over it. I know all the mods I want to do the bikes to make them enduro/desert ready: heavy flywheel, 18 inch rear wheel, new exhaust, steering stabilizer, etc. What I need help in is I don't know what bikes I can install a wide ratio transmission in. I know yz250 can take a 400 or 426 transmission, but can any other brand? I would like to see a cr250 with the gears of a 450x rippin through the desert. I like the steel frame for off road use, and I just need some advice on the best bike for this conversion. Thanks -
I took the carb apart to inspect why there was a small gas leak and when I took the accelerator pump apart the diaphram was ripped up And pieces of the rubber were in there it wasnt like that two weeks ago what did I do wrong? Was it in upside down or something? Im trying to figure out what is the right way so I dont mess up the new one some one please help is this the order it goes on
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Hi, I am not sure what to do about an issue I'm having with my 2011 KX 250F any suggestions thanks Checked the oil level it was good, started it with the high idle on, started on 3rd kick, shut high idle off 30 sec later, let it idle normally for 3 min. Drove down road about 500 ft, never reached high RPMs yet, it squealed and skidded to a stop, left it for 2 min (trying to figure out what to do) pushed down the Kickstarter slowly seemed normal plenty of compression, kicked it over and wouldn't start unless I gave it some gas, let it run for 30 sec and cycled through all the gears no issues, I drove it back to my shop and let off the throttle and it died. Tried to start it the next day it will fire but won't run, checked the camshaft clearance is good (it was replaced about 6 months ago, after a similar issue of the bike skidding to a stop) what else should I check before taking it to the shop, thanks
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Ok so I wanted to check out my sparkpkug while my tank was off and it was fine but I shined my light down the hole to check it out and it seemed dirty at the very bottom. Would could cause this? Is it normal the plug didn't have any oil or nothing on it. The other problem is when I ride my bike for atleast 5 or 10 min after the first ride of the day it will die with the choke off it only runs with the choke on do i need to clean the Carb?
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So i have a 2009 kx450f with efi and I'm trying to hook up lights and turn signals and all of that good stuff to make it street legal. I know I need to tap into the bikes power supply to power all of this but I don't know where that would be. Should I go through the cdi or the efi and if so where would that be.
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Hello, gotta say sorry for my bad English in advance, im just a confused swede i have a 2010 kx450f and i need new spokes. a friend of mine have a set with spokes but he is unsure if it is complete . he had 30 spokes in a package i could buy from him. anyway, my dirtbike is 2 hours away from where i live right now so i need some help here. How many spokes are there on a 19" rear wheel on a original black rim kx450f-10?
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I'm looking for a pit bike, budget around $600. Im not to worried about a chinnese brand im worried about size, I've been looking at a ssr 125 (either semi and manual), I'm 6'1 about 165lbs. I just wanna know if i'd be able to ride it pretty comfortably, obviously wont be as comfortable as a 250. let me know anything you got. Thanks
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i have a very beautiful 2004 kx125, i picked it up a few months ago and when i got to the guys place to check it out, he started it by foot like normal and i rode it around the yard and about 500 feet i went and brrrrrrrr it fouled the plug??? but it was 1800$ so i was like heck with it im still getting it to the looks of the condition and claimed recent rebuild. i took it home and we replaced the spark plug and we had to bumpstart it this time. again 500 feet and brrrr fouled. this bike has a BRAND NEW mikuni carbourator OEM with jetting and airscrew position on point, Timing is perfect, i even tried advancing and retarding the timing, still nothing. i put it back in its normal position though. Reeds are good. no gasket leeks. good compresion. spark plug is BR9EIX NGK. it gets a spark, its getting gas, its getting air. when i try and start it, it back fires sometimes a loud pop. carb should be out of question, timing should be out of question. what else is there to check? i have talked to a few people saying it might be either, crank seals, or the stator. but i have NO IDEA of what to do. please help me i know u guys might know what to do, im 15 and trying to get into mechanics and i try to be the best mechanic i could possibly be with my hard earned tools. 4/1/17 ill be checking on any comments or suggestions every 8 hours or so. and i also dont want to buy new parts for the bike that it doesnt need. Thanks for reading! give me your best shot, I accept any help!
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I have a 2008 KTM EXC that had an aftermarket radiator fan installed by the previous owner and worked fine up until some heavy trail riding a while back. Im pretty bad with electrical stuff and havnt even owned a bike with an electric start until now. Ive heard having a fan on these is pretty much a necessity so Im trying to get it working. Ive heard I can test if the fan will work by touching two wires together but I dont know which ones. Also how can I check to see if its a fuse or something else? Thanks!
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New to this site and looking for some help. Recently I've been having troubles with my 2015 KX250F regarding it starting. When I bought it (used) a few months ago it started on the kick like normal and ran like a dream. Not even a month into owning it, the thing would not start cold on the kick no matter how long I spent flogging it; it could only be started by rolling it. However once the bike was warm, it would start 1st or 2nd kick no problem. Now recently the bike will not start whatsoever. Tried to roll start it and it kept a big sort of buzz but never really caught on and started. I put a new spark plug in and cleaned the air filter but no luck. It is fuel injected so I feel it may be a problem with that. My mate suggested I could need to dump the fuel and put fresh fuel in but just looking for other possibilities. Cheers.
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Here's a gnarly question for y'all: I drag race a 2001 Kawasaki KX500 2 stroke. Currently looking for some more top speed. With 16/38 gearing it tops out just under 100MPH, and currently need it geared well into the 120s as I am letting off and shutting the bike off around 1000 feet. Here's my issue: I talked to a few custom sprocket shops and the smallest sprocket they said I could fit on my bike was a 36t sprocket, and that wasn't even guaranteed. They claimed that they wouldn't recommend me paying for anything under 37 because they couldn't guarantee that it would work. Now, there is a solution, albiet an expensive one. Something called a "Quick Change Barnes Style Hub". Basically a hub with a tiny outer flange that would let me run sprockets into the low 20s. Issue with this is, the hub alone is over 600 dollars. Tie in a wheel, lace kit, and bearings and I am looking at over 1,000 bucks JUST in my rear wheel. Keeping in mind I am only about 750 bucks in this ENTIRE bike, does anybody know of a solution that would let me run somewhere around a 32t sprocket? Is there a Kawasaki hub with a smaller I.D that I could run and lace onto my existing rim? Or am I screwed with buying this expensive flat track hub that will let me finally get this bike into the 10s? ANY help is appreciated! -
This is going to be very long winded, but I know there are people who know a lot more about 2 strokes than I do that I need help from, so I want to provide as much detail as possible. I bought a 2003 KX 250 about six months ago. When I first got it, I replaced the air filter, cleaned the carburetor, and put in a new spark plug. Up until about a month ago, that was all I had done to the bike besides minor stuff that doesn't relate to the actual performance of the bike. It rode hard and fast since I had bought it without a hiccup (besides some fouled plugs), but on a ride about a month ago, I had been riding it decently hard for about an hour and a half when I tried to really open up coming up a slight hill and it sounded like the bike hit a rev limiter. It still had all of its low end power and otherwise ran perfectly fine, but it was like it could not get into the powerband. After keeping off the pipe and letting it coast as much as I could on the way back home, it seemed to get a bit better, where it would just get there, but any farther and it would sputter like crazy and bog. Just two weeks ago, I came to the conclusion (to the best of my knowledge at least) that the power valve was sticking shut, and since I was going to take the cylinder off to clean the power valve anyways, I decided to rebuild the top end. After cleaning the power valve, replacing the piston, and repacking the silencer, I broke it in nice and good and let it rip. It sounded crisp and had all of its power everywhere it was supposed to have it. I felt like I was riding a new bike, so I enjoyed that for about half an hour. Next day, I hop on it and warm it up, take off and it bogs when I get to the powerband. Every time I've gotten on it since, it's a different story. One minute, it's bogging like heck, I sit for a few seconds to calm my frustration, take off and it rips with a sound like that of angels singing. It always runs exactly the same at low rpms, but very different at high rpms. I hate to admit it, but I cleaned the power valve without completely disassembling it, so I think that may be my problem. I'd just hate to tear the bike apart again, thoroughly clean the power valve assembly, put it back together and then my problem still not be fixed. Not sure if it's important, but it does foul plugs quite a bit. It has since I got it though and it ran good before this problem started. Any help is appreciated. Thanks for reading.
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I have a ttr125 regular and I haven't rode it more than 50 times and i've had a little experience with 4 wheelers but never owned one. I want a little bit bigger bike but I also have always wanted a 2 stroke. Im not interested in yamaha or suzuki. I'm not a racer and I don't plan on getting into racing but I want a 2 stroke. I'm 15 years old, 5'6, and 130lbs.
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I know there's gobs of threads out there along these lines, just hoping to narrow this down some & dig less. I live at 7,500 ft and for the most part do not ride any lower. Can't get carb dialed in. Ran it hot, ran it lean, ran it rich, I finally get it where it feels right & will get riding for about 10-15 mins and it cuts outs, engine dies on descent. After it dies the MF'er wont kick over for at least 20 mins. Gone back and forth all over with the idle get same result. I think my issues are from the hot start adjustment. Can someone with some carb experience on these 4strokes just tell me about what should be the right adjustments (turns out), at high daltitude: - fuel/air mixture knob (bottom of carb) - idle adjustment - hot start adjustment - Is the knob adjustment for the hot start (where it goes into the carb) & the cable adjustment (cable adjustment for hot start up by perch) the same adjustment? I get truly dialing it in takes going off RPM's, I am just trying to figure and know I am in the right ballpark so I can rule shit out. Input is much appreciated have been grounded for 3 weekends in a row now &%$#@!ing with bike. About to go mess with it a little more and if I don't get anywhere will get a picture of the plug up. Thanks,
