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Showing results for tags 'killswitch'.
Found 17 results
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So now that my TTR250 is running, I have a few other things to sort out. My killswitch(left) is broken, do I need a new one or can I just use the start/stop switch(right)? My carb is dumping gas out of the overflow. I rebuilt the carb yesterday, the needle valve and float are both good. What could it be? How easily should be gas cap vent? Blowing into the vent tube there is a lot of resistance. My front master cylinder looks pretty rough. Is there any easier to obtain alternative/upgrade part I can use? Can I remove the evap canister system?
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Ride my 500 to work today, ran like tits. It started up at home first try with no hesitation. Pulled in to the office and it shut off and it didn’t want to idle. Kept trying until it didn’t want to turn over. Now I’m not getting any response when I press the ignition switch. bike has a new starter,battery,battery ground, and kill switch. All with less than 10 miles/ 20 minutes of running time. Valves are in spec and battery was charged. does the location of the kill switch have anything to do with it? It seems a lot of these issues started once I moved the switch over. where should I look for the ground to check it ?
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Hey everyone looking for ideas for my rocker kill switch on my fe 350. i got a rocker kill switch on the throttle side of my handle bar and I find when I’m hopping big logs or get caught up on something I’m going over, I find my leg hits the kill switch and kills the bike I rotated it up a bit helped but I wanted to see if anyone else had this little problem and what they did to resolve it.
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Hey everyone looking for ideas for my rocker kill switch on my fe 350. i got a rocker kill switch on the throttle side of my handle bar and I find when I’m hopping big logs or get caught up on something I’m going over, I find my leg hits the kill switch and kills the bike I rotated it up a bit helped but I wanted to see if anyone else had this little problem and what they did to resolve it.
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I just recently got my 230 running after sitting for some time. It started up after a carb rebuild but my problem is when I was done riding I hit the kill switch and when I went back to try to turn it back on it did not start. Is this due to the kill switch or could it be the battery? Not sure what to do so any info would be much appreciated. Thanks
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I have a KX125 with a YZ engine, and when I bought it the ignition system worked, but it didn’t have a kill switch. I went in and took off all the tape, and this is where I am. I’ve labeled a few things, I’m not sure if what I labeled as the ground wire IS the ground wire, but there is also a wire that looks like it was cut. It’s stillconnected to the cdi box connect though. Any help to find where I should wire the kill switchwould be greatly appreciated. If you need anymore pictures or information just ask! Thanks 🙂
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I have a KX125 with a YZ engine, and when I bought it the ignition system worked, but it didn’t have a kill switch. I went in and took off all the tape, and this is where I am. I’ve labeled a few things, I’m not sure if what I labeled as the ground wire IS the ground wire, but there is also a wire that looks like it was cut. It’s still connected to the cdi box connect though. Any help to find where I should wire the kill switch would be greatly appreciated. If you need any more pictures or information just ask! Thanks 🙂
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Hi all! I need to replace the kill switch that is sticking on my '08 DRZ400SM and I don't need or want to spend $86 for the whole right hand OEM assembly. I pulled it apart and cleaned and lubed it but it still sticks and I want to replace just the switch itself. Does anybody have a part number or a source for just that switch? TIA
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Hi forum this is my first post here. I have recently bought my two sons a used 2006 TTR 50 and 2006 TTR 90. While I am an electrical engineer, I am brand new to the dirtbike scene. I am looking at putting a remote kill switch on each of these bikes but I’m not sure I want to pay for the 3Built version. After pouring over the electrical diagrams for both bikes I have come to find out that the 50 is a normally closed circuit and the 90 is a normally open circuit. So my question is would something like this off of eBay work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/MSD-12V-NORMALLY-CLOSED-dry-contact-on-off-relay-long-range-remote-switch-RS32P/351372639622?epid=673543773&hash=item51cf70fd86:g:GPAAAOSwrklVLYU~#wrapper-reviews-btf--parent Electrically speaking it seems like this would not be a problem at all but I can’t find it on any forum that someone has done this and it is much cheaper than using the name brand version and it also has a longer range. It seems like someone would have done this before. Any advice or is there something I’m missing?
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Installed a combined start/kill switch from an R6 to my 2015 Wr450f today. Makes the bars look much cleaner in my opinion. I didn't wire it the conventional way, which had 2 problems. The conventional way has the R6 kill switch attached to the Wr's kill switch wires. This makes the flip switch on the bars reversed. So on is off and off is on. Also, you still would need to press the ignition switch by the dashboard to start the bike, which I didn't like. Here's how I did it: So, I attached the R6 kill switch (both pink wires) to the red and brown wire coming out of the original ignition button on the Wr. Leaving the other yellow and brown wire attached will preserve your low fuel light. Next, cut off the Wr's original starter button, and attach the 2 black wires to the R6 starter switch (black and blue wires). Now it's done. Flipping the switch to the run position will prime the fuel pump, and pressing the start button will start it up as normal. It overall looks cleaner and puts all of the buttons in one place. Here's a quick demonstration.
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OK guys, I'm stumped. I cannot get a spark on my KLX110. Kind of. To test my spark, I pulled my plug from the engine, held the boot end of the cable with the plug inserted, kicked it over and ZAP! The plug sparked and shocked my hand through the boot, and I had visible spark on the business end of the plug. I was surprised to get a shock through the insulated boot, but lesson learned, next time I held the cable much further back and kicked it over and no spark. Conclusion, my body was providing the necessary ground to produce the spark, and I need to test ground elsewhere on the bike. I've replaced my kill switch. I've bypassed the neutral switch with a direct ground. My next guess is the CDI, but before I spend the money on that I'm doubting that it will help. If I'm getting ground when I hold the boot end of the cable, doesn't that mean everything else along the route is clean? Anyone out there experience a similar situation and any advice you could send along to help me trouble shoot?
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I have a 2005 crf250x and one day it wouldnt turn off. Later i was riding and i dumped it and it started working. Next weekend on the next ride half way through I hadent dumped it sense the last time and it stopped working. I got a new kill switch and did the clutch saftey by pass and it still isnt working. The battary termald are tight and all the connections I can see are in. What could it be? My next step it taking off the gas tank and inspecting the wire and seeing if they are pinched. Thanks
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Hi guys I have a bit of an issue that I am hoping you can help me (and more importantly, my 11 year old son) with. I can ride a dirt bike but am apparently useless when it comes to electronics! Here's the deal: My buddy gave me this Honda Z50R. He said it runs fine but needs a new air filter and some other minor parts. When we got it home, we realized that the engine is not the original - instead it's a bigger, Chinese make Lifan motor. Whoever installed it before did some makeshift wiring and this is my problem. My son may have disconnected a wire and there is no spark when trying to kick start it. We replace the spark plug, to no avail. One thing that is notable is that the kill switch is only connected through the black wire and the green wire was capped/tapped/disconnected. does this make sense? I also assume that the original had an ignition and possibly a headlight which may explain the yellow, white and/or light blue/red wires that are coming from the engine, disconnected. I know it is difficult to figure it out looking at two photos but if you have any idea please share it. Thanks a lot! Ogabott & Owen
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I recently broke my kill switch on my Honda Crf50 Pitbike. A replacement is on it's way, and I'd rather fix it myself than pay $48.00 of labor... (rip off). Does anyone know how to properly connect the new kill switch? Is the connecting piece behind the front number plate, or do I have to take off the gas tank and seat to wire to the CDI? Thanks in advance. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ **(I was going to upload some pictures so you know what I'm working with, but I can't seem to download the pictures. I'll upload them if I can figure it out.)**
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Hey folks, quick question for those of you in the "Big Brain Brigade" . . . Is there anyway to create (or, perhaps, does there already exist) a combination kill switch that is both the push button (like we all currently have on our cycles) and pull-out cord/cable (like you see on Speedway Bikes and/or Quads)? Thanks for any suggestions or opinions . . . HB
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I have a DRZ400 (the off-road kicker model) that the previous owner installed a key switch onto. I used to be able to use the key switch to kill the engine by turning it to "off", but now it seems to run fine even in the "off" position. The killswitch still works normally. Does anybody have any experience wiring up key switches to DRZs? Is there a general diagram that I should be looking at to guide me to a bad connection, or perhaps this symptom is specific enough to know exactly where to look? Thanks!
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So I got this crf50 and it does not have a killswitch and I got one coming in tomorrow. Could someone please help me /guide how to wire together i don't really know the exact wires to match up here are some pics!! And Thankyou
