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Hey guys just bought acerbis plastics for my 2020 kx250f.. now on to finding graphics that fit those plastics? I assume acerbis and oem are shaped different, not 100% so I was wondering what sites people have used to get graphic kits for acerbis plastics. Not many sites have the option to choose that so I was wondering if any 2020 kx250f graphic kit would work or if its only gonna fit them oem style plastics… Thanks??
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Hi, so last ride on my 2013 KX250f I only rode maybe a half hour before I noticed it was blowing oil out of pretty much every seal as well as the crankcase breather tube! Needless to say I stopped right away, seems to have lost some compression but not all. I just bought the bike and have only ridden it about 6 hours so I don't know when the last time someone did a top end or anything like that. I'm only 17 and as such have a limited budget (especially after just buying the bike) Long story short what does it sound like I need to do? I imagine I need new rings and gaskets? Or do I need to put a piston in as well? I greatly appreciate any advice whatsoever. Im hoping to get it back running good before winter is over so I can get some riding in!!
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I am looking to buy a new bike but i seem to not know what bike i want to do get. I have watched all the shoot out on YouTube and anything else that compares bikes. All that they have said is that very bike is a very good bike it is just what you would prefer. Which does not help me out a lot. I seem to not know what type of rider i am and wish that i could just ride all them and then choice like they do in the shoot outs. It seems like off the videos i would like the yz250f, kx250f, or the crf250r. But i have never rode a newer Ktm. So I’m just in a bad stop and don't want to wast my money. If any one has any ideas or knows where i would be able to ride all the bikes, if not some that would be very helpful. Thank you.
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I just destroyed my kick start on my 2011 kx250f and tusk only makes one for a 2011 kx450f would the kx450f kickstart work on my 250? I'm getting tusk because I don't want to pay 170$ on a hammerhead or oem
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Hi I recently bought a really really clean 2011 kx250f that was completely rebuilt by a mechanic. I took her to the track and it ran absolutely perfect and sounds awesome, but we had the common oil leak problem from the sparkplug weep hole on the right side of the cylinder so we took off the valve cover and put sealant on the top o ring right below the valve cover (the only thing we did) and we think it fixed the oil leak problem without having to take off the cam caps to get to the second o ring, but after reassembling and putting the gas tank back on we started it up and it ran horribly almost sounds like a misfire and is blowing white smoke out the exhaust, which is neither coolant or oil being burned for sure, so it has to be fuel? Also my timing is perfect we never did anything more than taking the valve cover off and now its running so off and wont idle, you have to play with the throttle to keep it running. I'm so stumped any ideas? Fuel injector problem? Spark problem?(I never did end up changing the sparkplug, and oil did leak into the sparkplug chamber cause the leak) Also here is a video of how its running with sound. Any help would be greatly appreciated before I take this thing to a shop.... TLDR: Bike ran amazing, Wanted to fix easy oil leak, took off fuel tank completely, took off valve cover and nothing else, added sealant to o ring right below valve cover to prevent oil leak from weep hole, reassembled fully, doesn't run right, misfire? didn't change/mess with anything to cause a problem like this but here we are.
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Hey guys, so me and my buddy went out riding the other day and we had a little race, his 2014 KX250F vs my 06 KX450. I thought I would have easily smoked him. To my surprise we were dead even :/. Now I am starting to believe something is definitely wrong with my bike. The piston is brand new, the valves were recently adjusted. However my carb has been in need of a good clean. Are these newer 250F's really that fast? Or is it possible something is wrong with my bike (Clutches, carb, valves)? He does have an FMF pipe on his bike and he is definitely lighter than me by a couple pounds at least. What so you guys think?
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My crankcase vent is puking oil out of it. It is a large amount of oil, not just a small drop or two, its getting shoved out, both when kicking the bike over, and when it's running. I have new head gaskets, and new rings. It is not overfilled, I filled in the exact amount required, and if anything it's slightly underfilled because of how much has been shoved out. It has been doing it before and after the new rings. The bike feels strong, and it doesn't feel like it's losing power in the form of lost compression. The valves are timed and shimmed. What could be causing the problem? Thanks. Could it be something with an oil screen being clogged causing oil to not flow up into the top end like it should, so it's staying in the crankcase?
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Hi everybody, anyone sells the Kawasaki kx fi calibration kit? software cd + connection harness. Thanks ✌️
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Hey guys i have recently purchased a 2004 kx 250f and i cannot get this thing to run and have any power at all.It will idle but if i try rolling into the throttle it just sputters and pops then dies.I have changed main jet all the way from 178 to 190 no change and the pilot from 45 up to 58 and no change for the good.It has a brand new carb and i have the jets now at 180 main and 45 pilot fuel screw at 2 1/2 and the air filter is clean the valves are in spec and the boots dont seem to have a leak.I have not messed w the tps but idk what else it could be i have timed it 3 times and its at tdc on compression stroke and 2nd mark of the 2 rotating ccw.Please help any ideas t
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I have a 2012 kx250f and it has a lot of bottom end power but hits rev limiter so fast it has a slow top speed and loses so much too end because of it. Any ideas if it is because of ecu or what it could be? Also i have a yoshimura PIM 2 tuner could that be the cause?
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Hi first time posting here so bare with me, I recently purchased a 2015 kx450f from a private party and after spending some time with it I realized that I should have received some different colored DFI couplers with the bike that I did not receive, and can’t seem to find anywhere. On my search for these couplers I stumbled across a website that sells a replacement for these that is one coupler with a 3 way switch so you can just move the switch to whichever position you want for whichever map you want. Sounds great, but for $70 I’m a little iffy about it, wondering if anyone here has purchased and used this or knows someone who has? Reviews would be appreciated, thanks!
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Hey guys, I removed my shock shaft from the shock clevis to get it coated n removed the rebound adjuster as well. I had the parts put into a bad and used all but one o ring that I believe I put in there afterwards from something else. Do any of you guys have pictures of how rear shock rebound adjuster goes together? I’m pretty sure it’s just a ball n spring two O rings, a set screw and a small Phillips screw
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Hi all, Last fall I bought a bike thinking it was going to be an easy project bike. Well, just now I finally rebuilt the top end on my RMZ250f. I set the timing and everything looked as per manual when I put it back together. When I fired it up for the first time, the header started glowing bright orange within 30 seconds of startup. Bike was on Choke. Is this jetting, or could it be timing? I'll reply to this thread with the size of the jets in the carb when I take them out later tonight.
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Hi all, I have a 2012 kx250f. I recently thought I saw something weird in the coolant. I changed it about 10 minutes ago and found lots of these little flakes in the coolant. I think it’s metal, but not sure. They aren’t magnetic so if they are it’s aluminum. What can this be, and what are the causes if it is aluminum? Here’s a picture for reference.(it’s on the tip of my thumb) there were lots of these.
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Hello all, I am looking for the best solutions to a stripped out kick starter bolt. I've read that welding is not an option so I want to know what would be better. I'm worried about pre-drilling the shaft/ BOSS and putting a self tapper in there because the wall of the shaft looks thin. Is not fixing it an option? Will it cause issues (even though its a pain) to just leave it alone and have to put the kick starter on when i t needs to be kicked? Looking at the picture and the replacement bolt it looks like there could be room to get the broken screw out, what do you think? will it just cause more damage? Side note, i was not the one who stripped this bolt and i was not the one who tried to extract it so I'm not sure how it ended up looking like this. Ill be sure attach a few photos. Thanks in advance!
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Hey guys, I have an 09 kx250f That I just fully rebuilt.....new crank, new bearings, new cylinder, new piston and rings with stock compression ratio, new cam chain, 2 new OEM intake valves, reshimmed, timing is 100% correct...and i still cant get it to fire up! Took the whole carb apart and cleaned it...used carb cleaner and compressed air. Still nothing. Then I noticed that when I slowly push down on the kick starter I hear air leaking from the air filter. ...but ONLY when the choke is on. When the choke is off, no air leaking. Note- i did adjust the timing one tooth over on the exhaust side and see what that does....still nothing! Just trial and error. That couldnt have damaged any valves correct?? I put timing back and still nothing new. Maybe I need to rejet? What jets are you guys running? Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks
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Hey Everyone, Looking for guidance/ advice as my bike sits in a shop acting like a paperweight. I have a 2015 KX250F that is having trouble starting once I ride it for 30minutes. It starts up 2-3 kicks cold everytime and idles fine. After running for 30 minutes or so, the bike wont start hot. I have to let it cool down for 20-30 minuets before it will kick back over. During this time it will bump start, sometimes struggles but normally will start. The bike doesn't bog down during operation and will continue to rip unless I stall it or hit the kill switch. Currently the bikes at the shop and the guys are stumped. Valves are perfect( shimmed to loose side of tolerance), leak down test passed, timing is great, new park plug, coolant full, and No sensor error codes have been detected. I'm at a loss, because the bike will continuously run unless I shut it off or by dumb mistake stall it. Then it becomes a waiting game until I can kick it back over. The shop guys are starting to suspect the fuel pump causing problems but idk. What's your thoughts? Has any one has a similar problem?
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I have a 2015 kx250f with around 65-70 hours on it and I’m not sure whether I should rebuild the top end or not. It has been maintained very well, only ridden on trails, the valves were just adjusted, and there are no signs that indicate a worn top end. Is it ok to keep riding until it shows signs of needing a rebuild, or should I just rebuild it now because of the high number of hours? Apologies if this is a stupid question, I couldn’t find anything on the internet about it.
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Hey everyone i bought my first bike for 2.2k it is a 2011 kx250f , the previous owner used it for racing and used racing fuel i was wondering if i could put 93 instead without damaging anything a buddy was concerned about me putting 93 in there with a high compression piston and ported heads this is the description of the bike from the sales post (btw great people i bought it from they really loved this bike and i dont want to destroy it right away by somthing as simple as gas) Fully built pro circuit motor with about 2 hours on top and about 30 hours on bottom end. It also has a pro circuit ti-4 full exaust, mx tech suspension, excel black rims, avs levers, newer tires with a few rides on them, fresh oil change & much more. Comes with extra front fender and radiator shrouds. Graphics in pics are not included. Questions? Please ask. UPDATE** several questions about motor information, here is some info... The motor has a pro circuit modified and ported head. Stage 2 aftermarket cams. Hot Rod rod with all new bottom end bearings. JE pro circuit high compression piston.
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So I've come here with a few issues and you are always very helpful on this site. I appreciate anybody willing to give a little advice to me, but here's the issue I'm having. I ride a 2009 kx250f and this seems to be a recurring problem. My bike backfires rapidly and loudly when I'm decelerating. If I pull in the clutch the issue comes to more of a quieter popping noise but if I'm just slowing down in general it pops very badly. I shimmed the valves when I was having an issue with starting the bike and that helped my issue but the backfiring persisted throughout it. My next attempt to damper it was by fixing the hotstart that the previous owner had attempted to close up. The plunger was stuck in there broken off so I replaced the whole thing, new plunger, spring and a metal cover there as oppose the the little plastic one that comes with the bike. Now my hot start works perfectly and it temporarily fixed the backfiring quite a lot and all I dealt with was small popping occasionally which I didn't mind. The issue now is my bike is backfiring as bad as ever and I know those two issues are fixed. What could possibly be the other problem? Should I just take the connector off the hot start again and make sure the o-ring is sealing better so no air is getting through at all? (I forgot to put a little oil on the o-ring there) Otherwise I have no clue what could be causing the issue. Any help at all is appreciated, thank you!
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I recently encountered a problem with my 2009 kx250f. One day the bike started to bog and backfire soon resulting in the bike to stop running. After trying several common repairs on the bike (New top end, new valves, a whole new carburetor, new stator and cdi box) the bike still will not seem to start and run. If anyone has an idea of what could be the problem i would appreaciate the help. Thank you!
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HELP PLEASE!!! I just replaced the crank and main bearings on a 2010 KX250F with a Hot Rods crank and bearings kit. All went well during the rebuild thus far. When I attempt to torque (87inlb) the case bolts the crank starts to tighten up and gets worse at the case gap closes tighter. The bearings are seated all of the way. I've pulled the bearings and re-installed them to make sure that they were seated correctly. Upon inspection i noticed that the Hot Rods crank is wider than the OEM crank by roughly 1 mm. Total length is the same but the actual crank body is a little wider. I can see a very small gap between both sides of the crank and left / right case halves. However, the gap is a little bigger on the right side. The crank does not appear to be rubbing on the case though. See picture below. I can't find what the spec for this gap measurement is in the manual. My guess is that the crank being 1 mm wider than the stock is putting the bearings in a bind when I try to torque the 8mm case bolts. Any help would be appreciated. Not sure where to go from here and could use some advice.
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So I just took off the valve cover to check valve clearance on my new to me/for the wife 2017 kx250f. Bike looked 100% stock one notch on chain adjustment from new showroom bikes and still had the nubs on very edge of tires. The cases had some scuffs but nothing to bad, looks like no tools marks on the timing indicator or valve cover bolts just oil cap. So my question is is the marking on the camshaft holders from the factory or has someone all ready been in the head? The exhaust is at 15 and the intake is at 13mm I have no clew what the 39 means?Thanks for any input also on a side note it was kind of hard to start before changing the oil but after it fired right up so easily that I was able to start it with my hand when cycling the oil thru is that also normal? I’ll try and take a vid also it’s only 19deg out!
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- Kx250fKawasaki2017
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About a month ago I had an issue with my 2018 kx250f where it would redline in every gear way too early. All bottom end and torque. She will still move quick but hitting any jumps results in an immediate Bonner air. I didn’t do anything I know of to cause it, just started happening out of no where at the track. I assumed it was a clutch issue so I took all the plates out, inspected them, relubbed with oil and put back in. It solved the issue for the time being. I rode it three more separate days at the track with no problems until I dumped it in a corner. Started it back up and it is happening again. Ordered all new clutch plates and springs, put them in and it’s still happening now. Thanks for any help.
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Hey guys, I'm owning a KX250F 2012 and was wondering what type of coolant would be best since I live in Thailand. Pretty hot weather and high temp everyday (30 to 45 degrees), there is no way to find any Engine ice over here so i'm looking to find something similar. Any idea what should I start looking for ? what type of coolant, any special specs to know about ? Right now im using some regular coolant with a base of 1:7 that I mix with normal water, which isn't pretty good I'm sure... I want to improve the cooling for my KXF, I have oversize radiator already and then maybe change the water pump as well later ! Maybe add a Fan system as well ? Any though ? Im using the bike for wood riding mostly and track sometimes. Thank you for the help guys ! And sorry for my english :D