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Showing results for tags 'kx250f'.
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Sorry for the long post but I'v tried doing searches on this and haven't found anything. I have the dreaded oil out the case vent tube problem on my 06 kx250f. Starts pouring out about 10 seconds after i start it and continues til i shut it off. Does this weather it's leaning one way or the other, standing straight up and down, or while I'm riding it. I bought the bike, and like I do with every bike I get, I did a top end and new timing chain on it. Cylinder and cross hatch were good, so I de-glazed it, checked ring gap on the new rings, piston clearance, side to side play in the rod, everything is in spec. Made sure valves were all in spec, put it back together and fired it up. And yes, the compression ring is facing the correct way. I drained both oil holes before starting the tear down, and put a new filter in along with 1.3L of oil once it was back together. Running MOTUL synblend 10w40. Runs amazing, but tries to push out every last bit of oil. Trying to figure out if I can fab up a reservoir to run the vent tube to with a return line so I'm not losing all of my oil. I'm sure someone has tried this, just can't find any info
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I was wondering which bike is better. I have heard many things about both bikes, good and bad. I will be using it for track and trails.
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What sub frame will fit my 2012 kx 250f?
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I've got a 2007 kx250f that keeps leaking coolant from the overflow tube. I've replaced the radiator cap thinking it was just that because the old one was so weak, but it didn't solve my problem. I put the coolant just above the fins inside the radiator to allow for expansion like it recommends but it still leaks quite a bit, I didn't know if you had to purge the system somehow to get all the air out or if this could somehow be a head gasket problem. Thanks
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I have come across a KX125 in boxes, it has a 98 frame and i believe a 98 motor as well. I started to assembly everything and have found that instead of an engine number on the cases, it is stamped KX125 FMF 909. This is in the exact location that the engine number is located on my other KX125. Does anyone know if FMF and 909 once teamed up to build 125's? Either for factory riders or just engine builds in general? It also has a Factory Connection state cover. The top end was not included so i am guessing that was taken off before being sold. I know factory bikes have a lot of special parts removed before sold. The bike also has a newer electronic controlled Carb and I know they did not have any electrical going into the carb for years after 98'. It also has a custom wire harness with an aftermarket injection control until with a 3 different settings to change. I basically just trying to find out if FMF and 909 once built factory bikes, or if this is just a massively modified KX 125. Thanks in advance.
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Hi all, I currently ride a 2001 WR250F (pic attached). I bought it 4 months ago after many years not riding so am on a learning curve. I do trail riding and contemplating upgrading to a 2008 KX250F (pic attached). Reviews say it's an all round great bike, just wondering if it would be too MX-ish for trail riding. Could it handle periods of slow technical stuff? Is the low down torque OK? Any feedback apprecaited. Thanks PJ
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So I'm a short 5 ft female rider and I've been on the 150r for the last few years and have loved it. I'm interested in getting something with more power and a little bigger. I have people suggesting the crf250 or the kx250f and even the ktm110. I ride a lot at the dunes, single track trails, and often slick rock, so a little variety. Any suggestions of what bike to try next?
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Hi guys, I am trading my 250f for a 125, and wondering since Kx125's sprockets only go to 13, is there a way you can put a kx250f 14 tooth sprocket on a kx125? or does it not fit?
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Hi first time posting here so bare with me, I recently purchased a 2015 kx450f from a private party and after spending some time with it I realized that I should have received some different colored DFI couplers with the bike that I did not receive, and can’t seem to find anywhere. On my search for these couplers I stumbled across a website that sells a replacement for these that is one coupler with a 3 way switch so you can just move the switch to whichever position you want for whichever map you want. Sounds great, but for $70 I’m a little iffy about it, wondering if anyone here has purchased and used this or knows someone who has? Reviews would be appreciated, thanks!
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Hi all, Last fall I bought a bike thinking it was going to be an easy project bike. Well, just now I finally rebuilt the top end on my RMZ250f. I set the timing and everything looked as per manual when I put it back together. When I fired it up for the first time, the header started glowing bright orange within 30 seconds of startup. Bike was on Choke. Is this jetting, or could it be timing? I'll reply to this thread with the size of the jets in the carb when I take them out later tonight.
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Hey everyone i bought my first bike for 2.2k it is a 2011 kx250f , the previous owner used it for racing and used racing fuel i was wondering if i could put 93 instead without damaging anything a buddy was concerned about me putting 93 in there with a high compression piston and ported heads this is the description of the bike from the sales post (btw great people i bought it from they really loved this bike and i dont want to destroy it right away by somthing as simple as gas) Fully built pro circuit motor with about 2 hours on top and about 30 hours on bottom end. It also has a pro circuit ti-4 full exaust, mx tech suspension, excel black rims, avs levers, newer tires with a few rides on them, fresh oil change & much more. Comes with extra front fender and radiator shrouds. Graphics in pics are not included. Questions? Please ask. UPDATE** several questions about motor information, here is some info... The motor has a pro circuit modified and ported head. Stage 2 aftermarket cams. Hot Rod rod with all new bottom end bearings. JE pro circuit high compression piston.
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Hey guys, I'm owning a KX250F 2012 and was wondering what type of coolant would be best since I live in Thailand. Pretty hot weather and high temp everyday (30 to 45 degrees), there is no way to find any Engine ice over here so i'm looking to find something similar. Any idea what should I start looking for ? what type of coolant, any special specs to know about ? Right now im using some regular coolant with a base of 1:7 that I mix with normal water, which isn't pretty good I'm sure... I want to improve the cooling for my KXF, I have oversize radiator already and then maybe change the water pump as well later ! Maybe add a Fan system as well ? Any though ? Im using the bike for wood riding mostly and track sometimes. Thank you for the help guys ! And sorry for my english :D
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Hello all, I am looking for the best solutions to a stripped out kick starter bolt. I've read that welding is not an option so I want to know what would be better. I'm worried about pre-drilling the shaft/ BOSS and putting a self tapper in there because the wall of the shaft looks thin. Is not fixing it an option? Will it cause issues (even though its a pain) to just leave it alone and have to put the kick starter on when i t needs to be kicked? Looking at the picture and the replacement bolt it looks like there could be room to get the broken screw out, what do you think? will it just cause more damage? Side note, i was not the one who stripped this bolt and i was not the one who tried to extract it so I'm not sure how it ended up looking like this. Ill be sure attach a few photos. Thanks in advance!
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Hi guys. I have a 2011 fuel injected kx250f. I just put a new piston in it and adjusted the camshafts and valve shims. they are all adjusted perfectly in spec. I have put the bike back together now and have been trying to start it all day. It has spark and compression. However you can hear air coming back out the air filter when kicking it over. every around 10 kicks it backfires but doesn't start. Any help would be greatly appreciated
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I’ve been having an issue with my 2010 kx250f. First off the old carb was completely corroded but ran great. and hot start cable was stuck open a little, fixed that and after a while I started to feel like air fuel was wrong when I checked the plug it being a little too far on the white side. The screw head stripped out from the corrosion so I robbed the new carb off of a 2007 crf250. Same exact carb. Replaced my jetting and needle along with my tps for my bike on it. Put it together and starts first kick. (New carb has an adjustable air fuel screw) with the air fuel being 2 turns and then some trial and error. Mainly error... the jets are 185, and 42. When I give it throttle or try riding it has power but when pulling r’s it falls on it’s face backfiring stuttering and banging. Checked the tps with an ohm meter and have it set at .45 between black and yellow wire at idle. I’ve tried everything someone please share the knowledge tia! (New to the forum!) -
Hi guys, I have a 2014 KX250f that has a super small hairline, I mean super small hairline crack just under the main engine plug hold on the ignition cover. You cant really see it, but it "slowly" will leak oil out if let set long enough. I would like to permanently fix it. Right now, I just used some clear silicone on the outside and it stoped the leaking. However, looking to sell the bike and I want more of a permanent fix. The 3 options I see are: Replace just the ignition cover Replace the entire Stator/ignition cover Use some jb weld on the outside, sand down and paint My questions are: On #1, how hard would it be to use my existing stator / magneto items and install in a new cover? On #3, can JB Weld be grinded/sanded down to a smooth finish? If so, what is the best material to use? Regular wet/dry sandpaper? If I go this route, I would want it to look decent, then paint the entire cover black with hi-temp black paint. What would you recommend? Am I missing any other alternatives? Thanks!
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Nasty collarbone crash.
