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Found 3 results

  1. Hello, currently building a 1996 RM125 to be a reliable MX Practice bike. Piston rings seized and the cylinder walls were scored. Too deep for a rebore to be an option according to local mechanics. As much as I would want to go for a replate, it isn't available where I live (Southeast Asia). Most likely going for a cast iron resleeve. Is it reasonable to premix on the richer side and/or setup a richer jetting If I want to compensate for heat dissipation issues? or any other way for me to maximize reliability of this setup for hard practice? Thank you..
  2. I have a 2015 rm85 that lost all compression at Durhamtown a few weeks ago. We ordered a new wiseco piston & rings and replaced them - the bike fired up and ran for about 5 minutes before the wrist pin shattered and lodged part of the bearing in the cylinder wall (simultaneously destroying the new piston & ruining the cylinder - see pics). So, a new cylinder & piston kit was ordered. We put them in last night... The bike fired up, ran like a champ through a warm up / cool down cycle. And then again in the morning for a 2nd warm up / cool down cycle. On the first ride, she lasted a couple of laps and ran beautifully, until it just locked up. No warning signs, no hard shifts, no lag, no warning at all - just stopped. This time the brand new piston and cylinder look worse ( the piston was gouged on both sides and one side of the piston was actually crushed in - no pics of that, I was too upset), although no pieces of anything came out with it when we took it apart - just saw all the gouges in the brand new cylinder and piston 😭. I'm thinking part of the wrist pin is still floating around in the crank and came up with the piston during the first ride. Anyways, my question is whether or not you think this original cylinder can be saved somehow without having to order another brand new one - part of the wrist pin is still lodged in it. We plan to tear apart the bottom end and see if any pieces of the wrist pin bearing are floating loose around there and will hopefully find an undamaged crank & will get any pieces out to keep this from happening again. Would you have it bored? Re-sleeved? I've never had to do this before. Pictures for reference. Thank you all in advanced.
  3. This is the cylinder to my 1980 KDX 400 A2. I can't decide if its plated or sleeved, a magnet sticks to the inside of the bore but i saw someone say its eletrofusioned with molybdenum so it could be the coating that's magnetic.... it still runs with compression but i hope to sleeve it this winter with a steel or iron sleeve so i can bore it as needed.
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