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  1. I have a 03 klx125 and i keep hearing a loud knock (in my crankcase?); so i'm assuming a rebuild is in my near future. This is my first dirt bike btw and i don't know much. is it worth getting a rm or kx motor? Or easily possible? Would it be ok to get a 250 and throw it in there? I heard the 125/250 frame are the same and that the kiwi and suzuki frame were the same. If anyone has any experience with this klx rebuild id like to have your input.
  2. I bought a 2002 RM125 that needed the bottom and top end of the engine rebuilt because a a small conrod bearing failure. So I put in a new wiseco bottom and top end in with new crank bearings/seals, and all new gaskets. The cylinder needed resleeved so I sent it out to have that done also. It also has a new cylinder head. After rebuilding everything and getting it back together in the bike, I cleaned the carb and checked the float height, and everything looks good. I did not take the powervalve out and clean them; I only checked to see if they were operational and they seemed to operate fine. Everything looked fine. The bike fired up in 2-3 kicks. But it does not run the way it should. It smokes very excessively, and it cant rev up all the way how it should. There's not bogging at all, it just sounds like it has incomplete combustion. It sounds as if there is incomplete exhaust scavenging; it just doesn't sound crisp like how a 2 stroke should. I pulled the plug and there was a lot of oil spooge on the plug. Any comments and suggestions are appreciated.
  3. So I purchased a 1999 RM 125 over the summer, and have been riding it weekly on various tracks. I happened to blow both fork seals while at the track one day last week, and decided to give the ol' "Seal Mate" a shot at removing suspected debris. Turns out, the seals are infact blown out. So I purchased a Pivot Works 1999 RM 125 fork rebuild kit off of Ebay (verified seller) and it turns out the seals and bushings are the wrong size. So I contacted the guy whom I purchased the dirt bike from, and he said that he suspected that the forks on the bike were in fact NOT OEM 1999 RM 125 forks. So I have contacted Showa, Suzuki, AND Pivot Works to try and find out what year these forks are from. I have attached a picture of the Fork ID's in this post, any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
  4. I recently got a 2003 rm125. when I first got it, the bike was running. I went to ride it down to trails, and it was bogging when not in the high rpm range. Then the bike shut off, I started it again, rode for about 2 more minutes in powerband and it cut again. I couldn't get it running so I had to get a ride back to my house. I bought the actual spark plug (the 36.00 one). WhenI kickstart the bike, it sounds like no gas is getting in the engine. I opened and cleaned the carburetor, and checked to see if the float worked. I put the carb back together, and the float would not move. I don't know what the problem is, can anyone help?
  5. i bought a project bike its a rm 125. i dont know what year it is the owner said its a 2001 it has a the first half of the exhaust nearest to the engine is black. i looked a pictures and it looks like a 2001, are there any hidden vins. i need to know for a piston kit i plan to buy it says fits 2001, 2002, 2003 so the engines must be the same those years. thanks
  6. Hello everyone, so i just replaced the clutch plates in my rm100 i noticed there was one extra metal plate at the back that shouldn't be there, anyway after putting everything back together and taking it for a ride as soon as it gets into powerband the bike just revs to the moon and doesn't go anywhere is there anything i should have checked/replaced?. theatrically if the clutch springs were worn and not as tight as they should be would it make sense that someone would put an extra metal plate at the back to space out the clutch plates and have more tension on the springs to avoid replacing them?. any help would be appreciated cheers
  7. Hello all, Im in a bit of a snafoo. I’m in the middle of revalving my forks on my 93 rm250 (45mm showas) and I’ve come to realize that I am missing the needle valve from one of the forks. I’m looking all over for a replacement, but I can’t find anything. Does anybody have an idea of where I can find this part? It’s discontinued so im doubtful that a new part is available anymore. mfg # 51192-43D00 damper rod needle ive included some pictures to help anyone understand which part I am looking for. It is part #14 on the diagram.
  8. Does anyone know the thread size on the stator side of a 1998 rm125 crankshaft? I need to put a die on it but not sure what one to use and cant find a thread gauge here locally. I cant seem to find it in my manual either.
  9. I just bought a 1999 rm125. The clutch is worn and when I start it and shift from neutral to first, with the clutch pulled in, it jumps and stalls. Know that I need to replace the clutch, but what exactly do I replace? Do I buy just the clutch kit with separator, friction plates, and springs? Or do I buy the clutch kit and the basket or just the basket?
  10. So i bought a 1992 rm125 about 1 week ago and it ran fine! i got it home and rode it for about 3 days, then after i let it cool down for about 20 minuets it would not start! I checked for spark, and for some reason, there was no spark. I bought a new ngk plug, and still nothing! I went through all the usual stuff, and still nothing! I bought a new stater, put it on, and now it will bump start, but not start using the kick starter. ( the kick starter is 100% good ) I think it may be the ignition coil, but i am not 100% sure. Any ideas?
  11. I am trying to diagnose some issues I am having with my 1999 Suzuki RM125. Symptoms include: Low power, the bottom end seems OK, but there is no real increase at all. The engine revs up, but the bike doesn't really accelerate with a punch like my 1997 CR125R (not bogging though). Smoke seems a lot thicker than my CR. There is a pinging sound from the exhaust, I've heard that might be an air leak caused by a bad magneto-side crank seal. Sometimes when riding the bike will rev up on its own. Black spooge sometimes comes out of the tailpipe. Some more info on the bike: I checked the float level and its good. Has a pro-circuit fatty and the jetting specs matches the pro-circuit website. The bike has a new top end. Running 32:1. Coolant level doesn't drop (so no leaks there). Crank was rebuilt too. Here's what I think: Top end needs more time to break in. Crank seals need to be replaced. Power valve spring knob needs to be adjusted (don't know which way to turn it, there is a clockwise arrow on the knob but not sure it that will increase or decrease). Maybe I should run a hotter or colder spark plug?
  12. Not too long ago I got a KX85 for my son for his step up bike going off of suggestions by a few guys from here. It has been an excellent bike with a smooth powerband. I'm kind of wanting a cheap 125 now for a play bike for trail riding. I'd like a 125 with a nice smooth power band like the KX85. What bikes should I be looking at? Which ones should I stay away from? KX125 ? RM125 ? Thank you!
  13. Hi there ! I'm currently looking for a used 125cc 2 strokes between 2000 and 2007. ME: I'm form Québec/Canada, I'm a 5.4 foot tall, i weight 130, i mostly ride trails(on dirt, sand, rocks) but i really like to jump, climb on some small rocks(a bit like trial) , and i do ride enduro style too. I CURRENTLY RIDE: an XR200a 1984 (with absorber) i really like that bike, it's undestructible and i can ride for ages with one tank. The downsides are the suspensions and the speed limit. I WANT: a light, 2stroke, 125cc, which i can use all around. I want to pay max 3000$cad. I did some research and found that the YZ 125 is a pretty notorious bike, and more notorious are the 2006+ because of the suspension, motor, weight, improvements. That being said, i'm not close for any other brand. The one thing i'm concerned with is the gas consumption. I can do 2, 3 rides with my XR(4stroke, of course) before it got bone dry. I don't ask for the same results but i just don't want it to run out after 1 1/2hr -2hrs ride. I would really like a bike i can easily find parts. During my reseach i fell on a steel vs ali frame thread, i'm also concerned about it. Being a Vintage dirtbike rider ATM i can say i love the way it feel. I tried my friend 2017 TE300 and it was great but it felt like the bike was SOOOOOO DAMN STIFF !! OMG, myself being small and light, i wasn't comfortable AT ALL on it. I don't think i could see a difference between a steel and an ali frame and i wonder if i could see a difference between 2002 Yz vs 2007 YZ's suspension too ?? HOW MUCH should i pay for a STOCK bike between 2000 and 2007 ?? (i know there can be that bike which as been redone and all, but just overall stock ) Anyway, i probably forget to write some lil thing but overall this is it, i'm looking for a 125, 2t !!! Thanks you very much for your time ! have a nice day
  14. One of the major shortfalls of the DRZ400 is the front/rear suspension in stock form. Early non adjustable forks were too spongy soft and later adjustable forks were stiff and tracked poorly. The rebound only adjustable rear shock was a bit better than the front end but still left a lot to be desired. Compared to my Husqvarna 610 it felt downright anemic and dangerous. While you can sink a bunch of money into revalving, respring, racetech, ect. and end up with a nice ride, I was more interested in what I might get with a bolt on swap. If you read through the forums there is ample info about which forks can swap onto the DRZ with the RM forks being the preferred. However, there are lots of variations in offset which complicate which year to buy, it's a little vague what exactly is direct compatible, and there are a ton of opinions on how it will ride better/worse etc, but very few reports back from people who have made the swap. That's why I'm writing this up. I chose to take a less expensive route which I feel looks better and performs to a level Im used to with my 2 stroke MX bikes. I direct swapped the triples and forks from an 05 RM250, reusing my stock wheel, rotor, caliper, and headlight with a DRZ400SM headlight mount, all sourced online for less than $200. All of this was direct bolt on with no modification. This change alone was night and day better in every way. It held a line with much more confidence and less chatter, it handles soft sand more like it's riding on it and less like it occasionally plows, it rides much smoother at higher speeds, and it's less twitchy as opposed to more. It felt much more nimble and lighter even though any weight loss was minimal. With just the front end swapped It immediately felt on par with my Husqvarna. In fact, it feels so much like my 2 stroke MX bike that I was genuinely suprised. This was all with the stock rear shock which now felt too soft and the new limiting factor. For the rear I direct swapped an 06 RM125 rear shock and reused my stock drz spring to help manage my weight. Realistically I should be running a slightly stiffer spring but with the addition of adjustable high speed/low speed compression that comes on the rm125 shock, the rear end management feels again substantially improved. The speed, confidence, and aggression at which I can take obstacles feels like a completely different bike. It does sit higher. By my measurements it has a bit more travel now. To my surprise, it feels better on the road up to 80mph and tracks very well with maybe a tad more brake dive than stock. All this being said, I'm not saying you should make the swap. I'm not saying it handles better than a boat load of money thrown at the stock forks. I'm not saying that my style of Southern California Ocotillo Wells desert riding is directly comparable to your style of riding. What I am saying is there is a lot of erroneous information about how this swap might perform and if it's worth it over stock. I feel based on cost and performance that it hands down is absolutely worth it! Feel free to post up if you want to know more. I would have appreciated some real world experience before I nervously made the leap.
  15. Hi I am 5'4/5'5 is and my 150r feels really small but the power is still good I'm looking for a new bike and I don't know what to get I weigh 125lbs would a 125 be good and if so wich one. I ride a lot of trails and sand riding but some local mx tracks thx
  16. hey guys, my old rm125 is spooging and whenever i get on the gas it smokes a ton. It hits powerband pretty good I think, then again I have no idea as this is the only dirtbike ive ridden. My plug is wet, i have a keihin pj carb with a 155 main which I think is lean so I have no idea why it smokes so much. I mix 32:1 and used kawasaki racing 2 stroke oil, maybe this oil just smokes lots? I have no where to really get it on the pipe for a long time so it could be just loaded up. I just did a full engine rebuild with new crank seals and it seems my gear oil is not going down. I will keep an eye on it tho. I think i might just go to the original mukuni tmx carb that was stock. The guy i bought it from was a hack so Im not surprised if the carb is completely off. I am also running atf so I think it would smell like atf, and right now all the smoke is blue. Thanks
  17. All - I'm having a hard time finding a stator and flywheel for a project 1998 RM 125 that I am working on. I found a complete but it's for a 1994 model - any idea if it will work? More generally, how can I figure out if parts from a different year will work on my bike? Thanks! Chris
  18. HI guys, last post recieved great help so hoping the same here, basically I think I’m experiencing some timing issues on my 02 rm125. The timing marks on the magneto were slightly out by like a degree or less, in favour of an earlier spark, worried that I was gunna fry the piston, I moved the timing marks by a degree in favour of a later spark just for piece of mind that I wasn’t harming my freshly rebuilt engine, since doing this o think I can hear the bike ‘pinging’ when riding at a steady speed, and has developed a ticking noise from the top end, it runs okay maybe a little splutter before the valve opens and possibly down on power a little but I ride a sports bike so maybe it’s just not that fast compared, but once it’s cleared out it sings through the gears as it should, can anyone help? Will post a picture of current position on magneto, also I haven’t proper tool for measuring tdc but by feel on the fly wheel this is pretty much where it’s at, that can’t be right considering the crank turns anti clockwise?
  19. Hey everyone, I picked up a 2004 RM125 a while back and did a lot of work to it. Its running great now. However, the only problem I cant figure out is this: every time I shift from first to second, only while under load, the bike hits neutral. This happens while shifting down too. It feels almost as if neutral is a normal gear, comparable to that of a numbered gear, and the bike shifts into it as such. While the bike is stationary or off I can shift between first and second no problem which leads me to believe it isn't a transmission problem? I'm currently running Ecstar 10w-40 per the manual. Should I try a different oil? I've adjusted the shifter position and ensured it is tight. What could the problem be? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  20. Last Month I purchased a 1995 Suzuki Rm125. The previous owner told me the MT on the side of the cylinder stands for moto tassinari/Vforce because it was ported by them. my question is does moto tassinari/ Vforce even do Cylinder porting? thanks. haven't seen this anywhere else. Please help me understand.
  21. Hi, working on an 84 PE full floater, which needs a rear shock to really go off road. Looked everywhere and there’s nothing out there. Does anyone know if an RM one will fit? If so what year and model?? cheers in advance Waz
  22. Does anybody know of any wireless headlights that mount where your number plate goes where you don't have to wire anything? Kind of just like push a button and it turns on type of light thing? I would also need it to fit my 03 cr125. Thanks for looking!
  23. Hey all, Im looking to update the suspension on my 1985 RM125 because it is insanely soft for me. I'm only a 150 lb rider so this leads me to believe that something is wrong. I'm not experienced with suspension work so I don't know what would cause this. I am also looking into an inverted fork swap and I was hoping that someone might know what triple clamps would fit my bike or what inverted forks would fit my stock triple clamps. All help/advice is appreciated, thanks!
  24. Hello guys! I`ve made a little raw 2-stroke video of me and my gang riding back in the days. Its actually old footage but its quite good because of the camera I used. Raw 2-stroke videos are popular so I thought I could make something out of the footage I had. It’s nothing special but you might like it if you are a two stroke fan 🙂 And if you are 2 stroke fan and have Instagram, check out my newly made account: @mxjan_77 and send me a message 🙂 Going to post pics lots of 2 stroke stuff on that account. Regards Jan Link:
  25. Hey guys, working on my 1999 Suzuki RM125. Last time I drove the bike, there was a crunching sound. Compression was instantly lost, and the bike died. I decided to take a look, thinking it needed a new top end. I knew the piston was old, and it looked like part of the exhaust valve went too far into the cylinder and then the piston collided with it. I'd rather not spend hundreds of dollars on exhaust valve parts. So I was wondering: what if I just remove the valve that broke off, and left the other. So one side would actuate normally, while the other side would always be wide open (as if I was revving the bike hard). I was wondering how much this affect the lower rpm range of the bike's power. Has anyone ever completely removed the power valve? What was it like to drive? I know this isn't the best option, but its cheaper, and at least one of the sides still works, so I would be getting some control. I could even adjust the spring tension to compensate, maybe.
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