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Found 125 results

  1. Today we’re going to be talking a little bit about automotive suspensions and how they work to smoothen the ride of your car. There are mainly three purposes of the automotive suspension system. First, they support the weight of the vehicle. Second, they maintain accurate tire contact with the ground. And third, they absorb any shock that you get through the road when you hit a bump. Most modern vehicles come with an independent front suspension. Which means if one wheel hits a bump it does not disturb the other wheel. Nowadays, people use Coil Spring to support the majority of weight in the car. As it has a really good characteristics for absorbing any bumps as you go up and down on the road. However Springs aren’t very good at dissipating that energy. In fact that’s why you have the shock absorber. Which is there to smoothen out the ride and make sure the tire maintains contact with the road. In modern passenger vehicles the two most popular suspensions are McPherson strut and double wishbone style of suspension. The main advantage of the McPherson strut suspension is that it’s really cheap and simple that’s why a lot of manufacturers are moving towards this design. The double wishbone design allows the wheel to stay perpendicular to the body as it navigates a corner or as it goes over a bump. And that maintains good tire contact patch no matter where the wheel is situated. Another advantage of this design is that it can be made adjustable where you can control the position of upper control arms ball Joints. Click to Know More About Ball Joints and other Suspension Components
  2. billby

    tank

    i just put 79 yz 400 forks and triple clamps on my tt500 now forks hit tank. is there a tank that will fix this issue?
  3. What should nitrogen pressure be set on vintage fox non reservoir shocks,14" old school twin shocks?
  4. Montana Norm

    Beta Sachs OC tool

    Can anyone give me the dimensions of the cartridge holding tool for the sachs oc fork? I need to get the catridge out and i dont have time for the tool to be shipped. I can see in the piccs its a small tube and it has 3 notches in the end to accept the cart. but i need the I.D., O.D and length of the tube. also the width of the notches would help. Thanks alot if you can help me
  5. Pancho_Jsy

    '07 fork spring swap

    Hi All, I've been using my '07 WR450F for MX duties but the super soft forks are making my life very hard. I have to land every bump and jump on the back wheel, as if I'm riding some 60's scrambler. Landing front wheel first or even large braking bumps cause the forks to bottom out with a loud whack! I've tried fiddling with the oil height but even a max recommended it's still the same. The stock springs fitted are 4.5N. Yamaha max recommended is 4.6N. Surely a 2% wont be enough? I'm thinking of trying 4.8N (6.6% stiffer) I'm not hitting 130ft tables so i dont need it super stiff. I'm about 70kg. What are you guys using? And did you fit more/less preload spacers?? Thanks in advance Pancho
  6. crhrider

    XR 200 in need of a shock

    I have a 2002 XR200 in need of a shock! Anyone have any for sale?! Thanks in advance
  7. Bought my 2003 Kx 250 from a shorter, lighter kid that had the suspension done by EVO for mx. I budget race woods, and the suspension set up for a 140 lbs mx racer actually does alright for me in the woods as I'm around 165 lbs. The foot pegs were welded higher which I took care of, the forks were way high in the triple clamps which I took care of, but the seat sits much lower than I want it to, I can flat foot the bike with about an inch to spare. I don't really know how the work was done, is there a link or something I can just take out to raise it back up or was the shock cut or replaced with something to fit the previous owner? how do suspension shops usually go about lowering a bike? if its free/inexpensive to fix, I would like to do so, but if it cost any decent amount of money ill just suck it up and keep riding. Maybe its just because I'm used to it, but it seems the rear end sticks better when corning compared to my friends bikes ive ridden. but its just too short. Thanks, Jake
  8. Jamesk1002

    1986 cr250 fork rebuild help.

    Hello, I'm in need of a bit of help with my 1986 cr250r forks I'm trying to rebuild. I've taken off the fork seals and the rings that go after them. I've unbolted the drain, the top spring cap, and the dampening rod bolt at the bottom. Can someone please tell me what else I am missing to take them all apart?
  9. Any besides Race Tech on the internet?
  10. robsandiego

    San Diego CRF230F Owners

    Hi All- Briefly---I have a 230L, love it but want more and now just bought a 230f and am excited by the three rides I've done in and around Tecate so far. I'm overwhelmed by the suspension mod choices available, most of which are expensive. I don't want to throw money at the bike without knowing how it rides after spending $$$. My suspension is stock and I'm considering fork and rear shock upgrades. I would love to get even the briefest of rides on anyone else's bike who has done any of the following: 1.Emulators or new damping rods and rebuild 2. Steering stabilizer/damper 3. Either the Works, Fox, or the other (Hein sp?) shock 4. A reputable shop in town who has done these mods before. Mark at DMC is where I've been going for routine stuff. I'm pretty sure I'm not up for finding an entire other set of forks from another model and fitting them. Too complicated for my patience level and old man riding style. Unless you know the shop/guy who can do it all. Can I buy anyone a beer to let me ride around the block on their bike? I've been reading up about other peoples opinions on their suspension upgrades and it just isn't enough for me. I'd really appreciate a hand-on experience. Thanks in advance for any help. Rob
  11. EnduroBandit

    bushing Gio X31 250cc Linkage Bushings

    Hey ya'll! I've been riding my Gio X31 250cc really hard lately and one of the rear linkage bushings went. Now it makes a horrible squeaking noise lol. Does anyone know were I can get replacement bushings or if there are any compatible bushings from name-brand bikes? Thanks, Jordan
  12. gdombrowski94

    2015 Crf 450R suspension

    Hey guys, I am new to my 2015 Crf 450r. I use it for trail riding mostly. I weigh about 220lbs w/o gear on. I need help with figuring out how to adjust the suspension on my bike. I am not exactly sure what needs to be done. The front end of my bike feels like it wants to constantly buck me, or wash out on the trail. It is very hard to keep a steady rhythm riding this bike and I think it is due to all the front suspension. The back end feels pretty good. Any ideas? I could use recommendations on dialing the suspension in on it with what the stock bike allows and I would like advice on where to send the forks if need be. Also what should I do with the front steering dampener? How many clicks on the red, blue, and silver knobs on top of the forks should I try? I am use to oil forks not air forks and this is a whole other ball game I guess. Thanks!
  13. I am thinking of lowering my 16’ TE 125 but i have no clue on options or cost. Honestly, i am not to worried about throwing a little cash into it. At 5’5, im tired of high siding 5 times a day. Side note, I ride a mix of single trac and open woods, hare scrambles/enduros, and a tad bit of mx. Thanks for the help!
  14. Donovan Wormood

    07 kx250f suspension

    I just dented the sh*t out of my fork tube and the seals were already blown on my 2007 kx250f, so I'm looking for aftermarket suspension suggestions. also someone told me the 2017 kx250f forks will fit my bike, has anyone done this? Thanks
  15. I have a 2017 Beta 390 Race Edition (which I love) and it has the new closed chamber Sachs forks up front. I'm over 210lbs w/o gear and I have had the suspension revalved (several times) and heavier springs installed. It is much better, but still spikey and harsh over rocks and chunder. I'd like to get more "plushness" in the first 4" - 6" of travel. I saw an article from a guy who had the exact same complaint on these forks and he wrote about simply changing the fork oil to a lighter weight oil. His post raved about the plushness of the forks after the simple fluid change. I "pm'd" him but haven't heard back. So here's my question(s). He stated in his article that suspension fluid and oil were not the same and that 5w fluid was the equivalent to 3w oil. He further stated that he simply used Blue Rock Oil 5w Synthetic Suspension Fluid to achieve all this plushness. I went online to find this stuff and it looks to be mountain bike fork fluid. So: *Has anyone heard of doing this and achieving these desired results with a simple oil/fluid change to a lighter oil? *Is the Rock Oil bicycle fluid OK to use? (Oil is oil right?) *I have read that oil viscosity ratings are inconsistent from one brand to another - so what's a guy to do? *How much oil should I buy to do both forks? *Does the new/lighter oil go in both chambers of the closed chamber forks? *Does this same logic apply to the rear shock of the bike if it's too "kicky" over rocks etc? Sorry for the all the questions, but I really appreciate the input. Thanks much, Man on mission to achieve plushness...
  16. lookin to upgrade my suspension on my 06 cr250, curious whats possible with some work.
  17. tidyrob69

    Spring weight 96 cr250

    Can anyone help? I've got a '93 cr250 that i'm stripping down and sorting out with powder coated frame, new bearings and newer suspension off a '96. The '96 shock and fork need rebuilding which got me thinking would it be wise to fit new springs as the originals, being 20 years old, could have lost some of their original firmness, i'm interested to hear opinions on this. Also any suggestions on weight springs, oil and oil level to use. I'm about 12.5 stone (79.5kg) without gear on. Cheers, Rob
  18. Grady Harrington

    '08 KLX 450r "best mods to have"

    New to Thumper and new to the '08 KLX 450r. I purchased this bike a few months ago. It was showroom condition. Took it to a very reliable mechanic that I've known for years and he said that the bike probably had less than 10 hours on it. Speedo/tach/hour meter computer no longer worked. Previous owner said he bought it from a dealer new in crate 4 years ago (hard to believe I know) and that he was the only one that rode it. Dealer was saving for himself. Probably hiding it from the IRS or something. Previous owner said he was selling it because he never rode it, parts would be hard to come buy, value was dropping because it's not available in the US anymore and he didn't won't to deal with it. If it means anything, he was in his late 50's. I also took it to a local dealer mechanic and he said the same thing my mechanic said. Based on the condition of the bike and what everyone said about it, I couldn't resist and dropped $4,000 on it. Maybe a little to high for a bike that old, but based on the condition, good reviews and how easy it is to work on, I figured it would be a reliable bike that I could trail ride on for a few years. It's a little heavy, especially carrying my fat ass around. I'm 6 ft pushing close to 300 lbs and 47. What are the basic first mods that everyone does, what mods are recommended in conjunction with other mods to get the best performance out of. Seller included a Jd jet kit just never installed it. What brand of mods is the best to get. I realize that I could search here and there through the forums, but just would like a list on one posting. Sorry about that, but thanks for your input and advise in advance.
  19. So I purchased a new Beta 300RR recently, and I think the bike handles amazingly well. I just can't seem to figure out the harshness in the stroke when going over roots and trail trash. Played with the clickers and it made no difference. Its brutal in 2nd/3rd gear. I don't think I am gripping to hard, but a certain trail I ride has a 30 foot patch of hard wood roots about 1-3" in diameter, space 4-5" apart and it is brutal on my hands and arms. I am coming off a yz250x and have ridden this trail with that bike with no problems what so ever. Current settings Springs front and rear stock Weight 185 Free sag 615mm Static 577mm Rider 510mm Race sag naked is 105mm Forks are 16 out comp and 10 our rebound Shock is 15 out on hi/lo and rebound thanks!
  20. 06thumpstarpro

    2006 Thumpstar 125 rear shock upgrade

    I just picked up a 2006 Thumpstar 125 and I want to upgrade the rear shock to accomodate my weight. I'm 6'1" and just about 300lbs. My bike has the A style or triangle style swing arm. There's some decent looking 1200lb rear shocks on ebay or there's the Fast Ace 550lb rear shock on Tbolt which says is for A style swing arms. My question is, would the 1200lb rear shock be the way to go for a guy like me even on the A style setup? Also would a 280mm shock work? And does the shock have to be A style specific or not?
  21. 06thumpstarpro

    2006 Thumpstar 125 rear shock upgrade

    I just picked up a 2006 Thumpstar 125 and I want to upgrade the rear shock to accomodate my weight. I'm 6'1" and just about 300lbs. My bike has the A style or triangle style swing arm. There's some decent looking 1200lb rear shocks on ebay or there's the Fast Ace 550lb rear shock on Tbolt which says is for A style swing arms. My question is, would the 1200lb rear shock be the way to go for a guy like me even on the A style setup? Also would a 280mm shock work? And does the shock have to be A style specific or not?
  22. RedRockets_up_in_here_dude

    2000 honda cr80 Rear Suspension

    Hi i Have a CR80 that feels as if the rear suspension is getting soft, im 5 foot 2 and weigh 130 pounds, and was wondering if 5.0kg rear suspension spring is good for my weight or a 5.4kg rear suspension spring is better for my weight.
  23. Ferguson_897

    KTM XC 250 suspension settings?!?

    Hey blokes, I have a 2018 ktm xc250 and I am chasing better suspension settings so I don’t need to spend any money on it just yet. It has the WP AER 48 fork and the DDC monoshock with linkage. I weigh 75kg with my gear. I am running the clickers slightly softer than standard and the fork pressure on a lower setting. I ride mainly enduro with a mixture of rocky gravel tracks to sandy stuff. I’m happy with the rear of the bike but the forks seem to be aggressive in action and I jar my hands and get very tired arms towards the end of a race. Has anyone found the sweet spot to tune these things but keep them stock? And if not what is the best option without spending rediculous money? Cheers 🤙
  24. Hi, I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot. I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled. I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled? I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock. I must have been made of cheap pot-metal. Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism? Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome! Thanks!
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