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Found 125 results

  1. I got 2002 XR200R and I got ‘88 forks for it and they will not fit into the triple trees for they are too big. Do I need the triple trees off a ‘88 xr or is there something else going on with this. P.S. I’ve checked part numbers and everything is correct.
  2. I am getting back into motocross after a 7 year hiatus. took my bike to the track and the braking bumps almost fractured my wrists it was so choppy. I am 195 lb w gear and the rear spring is a little too soft, I set the sag and now the free sag is a little tight. However in corners its like the front doesn't even work, like I'm riding a bicycle with no forks. Im not a slower rider and I am heavy for the bike so I don't know why it won't absorb more when in turns. Only went out a couple times with this bike. Stock fork springs are 4.8 kg. Called enzo and the tech recommended stiffer fork springs? said I could be riding toward the middle of the stroke creating a tighter more harsh ride since it is more compressed. I honestly don't know if I need stiffer or softer front since I have been out the game for almost a decade. Anyone else getting the same results through braking bumps??
  3. VintageMoto

    '85 RM125 Suspension Update

    Hey all, Im looking to update the suspension on my 1985 RM125 because it is insanely soft for me. I'm only a 150 lb rider so this leads me to believe that something is wrong. I'm not experienced with suspension work so I don't know what would cause this. I am also looking into an inverted fork swap and I was hoping that someone might know what triple clamps would fit my bike or what inverted forks would fit my stock triple clamps. All help/advice is appreciated, thanks!
  4. 7Fourteen

    RMZ 250 SFF spring rates

    Hey, got a 2014 rmz250 with SFF forks, standard springs, 1.0kg/mm in the forks, 5.5 kg/mm in the shock. Weighing in at a whole 155lbs without gear and running at an intermediate/B class mid to back pack pace I need this bike to become much more comfortable. Race Tech recommends: Fork: - 0.88kg/mm Shock: - 5.3kg/mm Race Tech appears to be a very reputable company and I apologize for questioning their knowledge but I am simply curious. For those who have used their calculator how accurate were their recommended rates. Fork: - 0.88kg/mm My main question for the fork is that their recommended rate seems like a drastic jump in fork spring rate. Maybe this is normal because their is only one spring up front? shock: - 5.4kg/mm or 5.2kg/mm are the springs available for the shock. Does one spring rate on the shock make that much of a difference? Currently with 107mm race sag which is what I find comfortable on this setup, I have 52mm of static sag (Not good, Too stiff) My main question for the shock would be if there is any way to know the amount of change in static sag from one spring rate to another. (5.5 to 5.4.. would that be enough to make the static 35mm. or would a 5.2 be better) What is everyone running for spring rate to make the suspension bearable?
  5. The problem I'm having now is one of my Showa fork tubes is longer than the other by 1 centimeter. Is there any way around not tearing them completely apart or can I just take up the difference when I mount them?
  6. Hey Everyone, I have just recently gotten back into riding, and I have been trying to get my sag set on my bike. I have a 2005 RMZ 450. The manual calls for 104mm of rider sag. I am a bigger guy, 6ft and 320lbs. I know the spring that is currently on the bike is stiffer than stock, but I am not sure what the rating is on it. I currently have the bike set at 120mm rider sag, and 10mm static sag. I know this means that my spring is too soft, and I need to go to a heavier spring. However, I probably wont be able to switch out the spring for awhile. So for now, what is the best sag setting with my current spring? Should I try to get rider sag closer to 104mm, or should I worry more about raising my static sag? I do mostly trail riding and I am a novice. Will messing around with adjustments on the rear shock help?
  7. I recently bought 1988 xr200r forks to go on my 2002 xr200r (got them revalved for my weight and riding style), and I only bought the fork tubes. As I was trying to put them on l, I realized that they do not fit in the triple clamps of the ‘02 xr. What do I do? Please help!
  8. Hey guys, some of you may have been following my recent posts and know that I'm doing my first frame-up rebuild. Anyways, got to the Arm Relay a few days ago and the needle bearings were totally pooched. Tried everything I could to get the linkage bearing out, but no dice. Put it in the freezer, put a torch on it for about a minute or two, put the biggest socket i could find that would still pass through the hole, hammered the socket in then grabbed a piece of copper piping and banged it the rest of the way. Still needed a couple good taps, but they came out nonetheless. If you have a press, i would recommend that instead. Or at least put a rag down and hammer on the rag!! Damaged the part quite a bit.. good thing no one will see it Interested on how you guys have gotten those pesky bearings out!
  9. Hey guys, First post here. I've just picked up a new 17' 450F and seem to be struggling a little with the SFF air TAC fork, I've spent hours researching them on these forums and have got the fork set up fairly well, I would say it's 90% there. The fork feels nice and plush and is working how I would like, however, I'm having issues with the front end traction. I live out in the UAE so all I really ride is dunes/baja style desert circuits and I don't have any confidence in the front end at the moment. Coming off a Honda I use to be able to throw that thing into the flat desert turns and the front would just grip allowing me to power round, but with the Kawasaki it feels like it's riding on the edge of traction and just wants to wash out, it also feels a little twitchy at high speed. I've got about 5 hours on the bike now and these are the settings I'm running, I'm roughly 210-212lb geared up and have my sag set at 105mm: Inner = 167psi Outer = 16.7psi Balance = 200psi Compression = 12 back Rebound = 11 back Any help on this would be really appreciated, cheers guys. Jordan
  10. I’m relatively new to dirt biking, I blew out the shock on my 06 125 and I’m trying to figure out the size of the shock I need (not trying to get a OEM) if someone can link me the size/ where to find a fitting shock it’d be much appreciated
  11. I have a 2017 KTM 250 SX-F with 12.2 hours on it. I went to change the seals on the front forks per the maintenance schedule dictated by the owners manual. I soon found that my fork chrome plating is scored up to the point that if I run my thumb nail over it I can feel it. Has any one else ran in to the same type of wear?????? I called KTM North American Head Quarters and they seemed surprised by the wear on my forks. Stay tuned to see if they will be willing to fix the coating issue.
  12. I'm new to your community and I have a question that I'm sure has been asked and answered many times before but navigating this site can be a bit confusing at times. My question is this; is there enough adjustment in the suspension of my 2017 XR650L for my 200 lbs. for southern CA off road and street riding? I would say I'm an aggressive, intermediate rider. If so what adjustments should I make? If not what mods should I do and what size fork and rear springs should I be looking at? Any local companies here in LA? Thanks
  13. Hey all Im new to the forum and have a general question regarding suspension setup on my CRF150r. I am 5'10 150lbs and got it as a backyard ripper.. I have a arena style track in the back that I made for my 8 year old and me on my tricked out 70 but have since moved up to the 150r to get a little more speed and holy cow that thing hits way harder than I expected which I love. Obviously I know a 250 is where I should be but don't have the room to open it up so the 150 works well.. My question is what can/should I do suspension wise to get the Cadillac ride out of it. I upgraded the rear spring to a BBR heavy duty but it still doesn't feel right.. Any suggestions on what to do to make it more comfortable for my size? The image was taken before the spring upgrade.. Thanks!
  14. This is my last resort. I have emailed, called, stopped into numerous parts stores, mechanics shops, suspension shops and online stores and cannot find the bushing for the bottom of this shock. It has a 6" lift on a 2003 1500 Avalanche. There are no identifying markers of the manufacturer of the lift kit itself. I have found shocks that are the correct length by they do not come with a bushing. Does anyone know the manufacturer so I can contact them or an idea of where I can get a bushing? Todd
  15. I'm looking to get into the dirt bike market. I currently have a bike for the road - a Suzuki TU250X. This has quite a low seat height - 770mm or roundabouts - and this is comfortable for me. I could go an extra few centimetres particularly because dirt bikes are generally more narrow (so my legs won't be as wide apart) and I'd have thick dirt bike boots on. The dirt bike that I do get needs to be road legal as I want to ride it in national parks etc. rather then just private property. There are plenty of road registrable dirt bikes out there but the seat heights are insane. Most being around 870mm - 940mm which is way to high for me. I'm 5'2" with an inseam of about 63cm (I think). So, as you can imagine it's hard finding something that fits - with most bikes leaving my feet dangling. I have been looking at the Honda CRF250L, as its stock seat height is smaller then most. It looks like something that is marketed at the weekend trail rider rather than hard core enduro or motocross rider and that's fine by me - I just want something easy to ride. Its stock seat height is 875mm and I want to know what the best ways of lowering it - I don't weigh too much so lowering the suspension is okay (I know it affects the ride). Does anyone have suggestions? I also see the Suzuki DR200S - with a seat height of 845mm (which is lower) but I have to say I'm not keen on the way it looks... Silly I know. Suggestions on lowering this one? Otherwise, are there any other suggestions of bike model and their lowering techniques.? I'd rather not have a bike less than 200cc's. 250cc-300cc's is ideal. Any help would be amazing. I have been looking for some time but I am striking out. Thanks in advance!
  16. Greetings! I just bought an electric 2017 Alta Redshift MX. Love it to pieces! I have been trail riding it on powerline roads for the last week. It has a ton of traction, a lot of instant HP, and it is always in the right gear. It weighs 260 lbs, but without a heavy flywheel if feels very light, I swear, not any heavier than my 2015 Husky 250TC 2-stroke. Very flickable and maneuverable. The suspension is exactly the same as on my Husky. Same 4CS fork, same shock, and same linkage and motion ratios. Alta spec'ed an excellent valving, this 4CS works! The bike is very nicely balanced too. But it feels way too soft for motocross. And it is not the damping but the springs that feel soft. I can easily tell, the bike is very well controlled but feels wallowy, slow to respond to large road bumps, whoops, etc. Compresses the suspension almost fully on even small jump. Lots of slow but very significant acceleration squat and brake dive. It definitely needs stiffer springs. I noticed this when riding two other Altas as well. And some magazines and YouTube videos are also saying that the Alta Redshift MX is sprung too soft. I initially thought the springs were much softer than on my Husky. But they are NOT, according to the manufacturer. The stock springs are 0.52 kg/mm front and is 6.3 kg/mm rear. The bike weighs 260 lbs. It is heavy. The Alta has much stiffer springs than all my other MX bikes, including the YZ450F! So I bought the Motool Slacker digital sag scale and measured the sags accurately. Here is the kicker: The race sags are the same or less than on my 2-stroke Husky! The Alta suspension engineers must have copied the 2014 KTM and increased the spring rates proportionately to the weight of the bike + the weight of the rider. The static sags were a little larger, showing that the stock Alta is sprung 1% stiffer than my well-tuned Husky, when adjusted for its weight + the weight of the rider. However, when the springs rates are compared to just the weight of the naked bike, they are 6% SOFTER. OMG! This is why it wallows, squats, pitches and bottoms out so much! The bike itself has a lot of inertia, including the pitch inertia. There is no other way to fix this but to stiffen the springs. So... I think I have reached a conclusion: I have to stiffen the springs proportionately to the original specs, approximately the same percentage front and rear. The static and race sag numbers will not match the traditional specs. I can make a reasonable static sag, or race sag, but NOT BOTH. I wonder if there are some suspension gurus here who have experience with re-springing bikes that are much heavier, much lighter, or have a much stiffer suspension, like the pro bikes. They can't match the same 35/100mm rule of thumb rear sag numbers either. So, please check my spreadsheet and let me know what you think. I am leaning towards Variant 2. Thank you for reading my post. - - - - - - - - Last thought: I cannot understand why people do not care about the decimal point in spring rate specs? For pete's sake, MXA and MX-Tech, 4.9 N/mm is NOT the same as 5.0 kg/mm! Race Tech has figured it out though, it appears.
  17. Isaiah Villarreal

    Xr100 BBR front forks make chunk noise

    Hello. So ive always stalked this page but this is my first post. I recently just bought a 2002 xr100 and the thing is great. I wanted to beef up the suspension so i picked up and installed the BBR front springs and rear shock. Rear shock was a b**** to install myself but it got done. However, the front springs are were im finding an issue. Theu were easy to install, and i added 15w belray fork oil. The bbr springs were about an inch bigger and required some compression to close the fork cap. The front feels stiffer however, it now makes a loud CHUNK when going off jumps or bumps. I dont know much about the science about suspension but id assume The rebound is too fast? Ive looked into and ive heard different things, such as, changing the oil to 20w, (which i will do next) cuting some of the spring off and adding a pvc spacer. I plan to minimoto this xr100 and abuse this bike...but not willing to pay top dollar. What can i do? Does anyone have any idea? Thanks in advance.
  18. So I want to share a solution I discovered today for what seems to be a somewhat common issue. First a little background, I ride a 2007 YZ144 set up for the woods and I had recently started to develop some slack in the rear end, so I had a buddy help me look and sure enough it was moving in the linkage. So I just received my new bearings and went to press out all the old bearings today. Using all-thread, some thick washers, and some nuts I was able to press out all the bearings in the linkage reasonably quickly (once I figured out to use a smaller socket so I wasn't hitting the shoulder). But then I ran into a dead-end.. the connecting link, dog bone, wish bone etc. has a shoulder, or raised sleeve, between the two bearings preventing you from pushing them both out one side. Now from my understanding this isn't the case on every bike, some bikes don't have a shoulder and the bearings in the connecting link can both be pressed out one side but my service manual clearly showed a shoulder. After some searching nobody really had a great method for removing these bearings except for buying a blind bearing puller. So I bought a cheap blind bearing puller from Harbor Freight but this did not work for me, it was slightly too large. So back to the drawing board.. then I discovered this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YRA3nhzXX0 Essentially, these races can be hammered out from the opposite side using a concrete expansion anchor that cost $2.69 at my local Ace Hardware Store. The one I found and used was slightly different from the one shown in the above video but there are many different styles that would probably work. Mine was luckily just the right length where I didn't need to use all thread or anything. Just slide it through to the race on the opposite side and expand it once inside (remove the needles before hand by the way). Once I had it in there and expanded, a few solid hammer blows (with wood underneath) and it came right out. See below for pictures of how it works. I've seen the question asked on these forums several times with no solution other than "buy a blind bearing puller" so hopefully this helps some people out.
  19. Time Left: 19 days and 3 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • New

    WP 45-260 rear spring for linkage suspension is supposed to be 4.2kg/mm stock spring rate but I think 45-260 means it is 4.5kg/mm. White. Take off from new bike spring is in perfect condition. 62mm I.D. x260mm long (stock length). $50 if no shipping is needed. Price new is $100 (actual MSRP is $139.73)+tax+shipping super deal at $65 shipped anywhere in continental US. Paypal or cash, no trades. If you are not sure about fitment check Slavens Racing suspension references. Thanks for looking. (should) Fit: ’11-’15 KTM 250/350/450 SXF/XCF ’12-’15 KTM 125/150/250/300 SX/XC ’16 KTM 250/300 SX/XC ’17 KTM 250/350/450 SXF Factory Edition ’18 KTM 125-450 SX/SXF/XC/XCF ’14-’16 Husqvarna TE/FE 125-501 & TC 250 ’17-’18 Husqvarna TE/FE 125-501 ’18 Husqvarna TX/FX/TC/FC 125-501


    Renton Newcastle Issaquah, Washington - US

  20. Hey everyone I have a 2017 drz400 I have never adjusted race sag or static sag on the rear yet , I am a 250 lb rider 6ft tall was curious if anyone knows he recommended sag measurements ? Much appreciated .
  21. Oh no, not another XT suspension thread! I enjoy every bit of my new XT'17, my first serious dirt bike. Previously I only rode Chinese 200cc 4T joke of a bike. XT feels like from another planet. Anyways, I have read that XT suspension is quite plush and tailored for a slow technical riding. I dunno what "slow" and "technical" means exactly, but as a newbie I assumed that I'm pretty slow and it will take time for me to reach stock suspension limits. But this two frames are from my today's little "jump". It's obviously very low, and it was at like 8-10mph speed. Still, rear shock is bottomed. I felt nothing at the "landing", it was nice and plush. So I suppose it was not truly bottomed. But I can see a bit larger jump will eventually bottom it out. I weight around 160lbs with the gear. My rear race sag is 3.08 inches, which is ~28%. So I wonder, is it normal? Is XT suspension is that plush? Also, is there any danger in such extreme shock travel? I do not plan to land big mx jumps, but I really do like such little whoops. Would be a pity to broke smth on a 20-hours-old bike. I will try to add more compression dumping to the shock and see if it will help. Do stiffer spring is an option? I suppose with stiffer spring I will not be able to achieve 30% rear sag. Is it ok to ride with say 20% rear sag?
  22. Done over 20 hours track time on my 2017 TC250 now and rate it very highly, now the tracks are getting far too dry so started riding woods more. Initial thoughts are that i'm in 1st gear where friends are in 2nd (for hillclimbs and tighter sections), this could because they are running 18" rear wheels but would be good to see what gearing options other people are running. Suspension is obviously very hard coming from sand tracks so thinking i'll go for around 141psi in forks and click everything right back on the shock, dont know if its worth changing sag as I am small as hell and gets pretty awkward trying to get feet down at times! Has anyone put a map switch in the crimp connection under tank and noticed a difference? Basically any mods or changes anyone would recommend would be appreciated! Thanks!
  23. firstplacephoto

    lowering xr400 spring length?

    I am going to lower the xr by 1.75 inches by puttting spacers internally to shorten travel. I bought 11.5 kg rear springs and .47 kg fronts. I am 220 dry,LOL and plan on doing shim stock mods also. Is this going to put more load on springs at resting position,thus stiffening it up too much in front? Not so worried about rear,plenty of adjustment for spring. Should i cut off inch or so of springs,or use stock ones? I know there are lots of people who say dont lower,just too hard to get on and off it at 62 years old with 28" inseam,and lots of injuries,no flexibility left. Thanks for any help guys,as always!
  24. So I kind of got my head around compression damping and rebound. Sag and the physics of what it affects... I'm not quite getting it. I was reading an article on my bike and they said "it kicked like a scared pony but reducing the sag corrected it". First off that seems backwards to me. Seems like they should have increased the sag. Second, why wouldn't they have just softened the compression damping instead. Well, to the bottom line... Can somebody please tell me how the bike should behave more/less sag? I always thought of sag as the at resting set point for optimized center of travel.