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Hi All, I've got a 2013 RMZ250 here that WILL NOT start cold UNLESS I hit the condenser with a hot air gun first. Head has been fully redone with valves, seats etc. Stage 2 hotcams, all shims are in spec, timing is perfect. New piston, new cylinder, mechanically it's perfect and runs amazing once it's warm. I've tried another RMZ condenser, a KX450F condenser, a different Rectifier, a tested working Stator, CKP, and Flywheel, tested the TPS, TO sensor, different Coil, cleaned the fuel system (all works fine, 42PSI fuel pressure), I'm about out of ideas. The bike just won't start cold at all unless the condenser is warm, possible ECM/CDI issue? But the bike runs and starts amazing once warm? I've been working on it for weeks, I'm at wits end! Any help would be great, Thanks!
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Hello, I recently purchased a 1998 Suzuki DR350SE. I was going to order a few parts for it and noticed on all OEM part finders they list different models for that year. Examples, model V, model W and model X. My question is how can I tell what model I have? Not seeing it on the frame or the title. Thanks!!
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I recently acquired a 99 rm125 that has some slightly busted radiators and I'm looking to replace them, after some slight research online I discovered cycle radiators that seem to be of high quality but i cant find any reviews online. Has anyone tried or heard about these. https://cycleradiators.com/products/aluminum-engine-water-cooler-radiator-for-suzuki-rm125-1996-2000?variant=42127863513244
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WILL NOT START!! 2 carb screws don’t catch the threads and just fall out the bottom. maybe need longer screws? Just wondering if anyone knows some well known issues with these bikes, has compression, put new spark plug in, but not sure about fuel. any help or suggestions is appreciated!! -
I just bought a drz400S 2004(Great bike btw). The problem is that the rear shock is VERY Squishy. I am 6.2 and weight around 155 pounds. When riding the bike, I even slip off the seat due to the incline there is. Is there any way to make the suspension stiffer? Without having to change parts, adjusting only the original ones? Any help is welcomed. Thank you.
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hey, so i recently bought a 1990 suzuki rm250. i noticed that the clutch wasnt working at all, later found out that the clutch pushrod isnt even there, i was wondering where you find those? or if anyone could send me the dimentions to them it would be awesome. i cant seem to find the clutch pushrod anywhere. thanks.
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Hi, I recently rebuilt the top end, 3hours so far. I'm getting paranoid about all noises now! Does this sound normal, or does it sound like piston slap, or some bearing issue? Thanks in advance! Bike is a 2014 KTM 300 XC. https://youtube.com/shorts/OF5pS1IG9uc?feature=share -
I recently picked up a 2017 KTM 250 xc with low hours and the jetting was off I got it way closer and it feels much better now. I just need to refine it a little more yet and am wondering if anyone has any specs running between sea level and 1000 ft usually 10-30 degrees celsius. (50- 90f ish) I know a lot of people say just go to the Keihin from JD Jettint but it’s very expensive compared to ordering 4 or 5 jets lol. (i know it says in the KTM TPI/TBI category but it’s the only option it gave me)
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2020 Suzuki RM-Z 250. Stock engine with full Akrapovic titanium exhaust. Bike runs good with stock ECU. Problem: With the GET RX1 ECU with Wificom I have the issue that it bogs from low revs when cracking the throttle fast both with no load and with load during riding. The symptom is exactly the same as a poorly timed Accelerator pump on an FCR carb. No amount of added fuel seem to help. TPS is set at 0.612 V with idle fully screwed out (0.60 - 0.64 V limit according to Suzuki manual). TPS is set to 0.750 V at idle (0.74 - 0.79 V according to Suzuki manual). I have reset the TPS in the app in two ways, both with the same result: First way: 7 turns out on the idle screw. Zero TPS. 7 turns in again on the idle screw. This causes the throttle value to read 4% with no throttle applied. Second way: Zero TPS at correctly set idle TPS-value. Bike also feels like it runs hot with the GET ECU, giving a fault code for water temp sensor at times. Athena have not been able to give a good answer for this issue. But what I know is that I need Maya software to update it so maybe that is the only way forward. Thankful for any help I get. I have attached the info from the app here:
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Hey, Im working on my Dr and have started to replace my chain and sprockets. There’s about 2-3mm of play between the front sprocket and the retaining circlip. As in it can slide up and down the shaft. Is that normal? I’ve got three sprockets that I got with the bike and they are all the same width. From the parts diagrams and clymer book it doesn’t look like there’s a spacer of any kind missing but that seems like a lot of free play?
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Hello everyone! I have acquired a 94 dirt model 350 and have been riding it and maintaining in for the past year and it’s been amazing. I also recently purchased a 1996 350 (se) for $500 with a blown top end. The reason I purchased it is to not only have backup parts, but to do a street legal dirt model build since the 96 SE has a titled frame in good shape. I will be transferring all my dirt model parts and engine to the titled frame. It also came with everything I need to make it legal. here is the 94 dirt model when she was given to me Here she is after a little work on her this is the 1996 DR350 (SE) I purchased with the title for $500 super excited to get this thing going. Love the way my dirt model rides, the suspension/power is great. I’ve always wished it was legal and North Carolina does not make it easy on us to legalize dirt bikes. This way it will be legit and I won’t have to do any of that South Dakota stuff lol. Thought this build could be helpful to others wishing they had a legal dirt model in NC. I had kinda lost hope until I found that 96 posted on Facebook in Virginia!
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Been working on getting an older DR200SE to run again. Rebuilt the carb, put a new battery in. Went to drain the oil, and what came out was nearly 2 gallons of fuel with the oil, and a wad of gasket material! I've read the thread about fuel in the crankcase, and will be looking into a new petcock. The thing that really scares me though is the wad of gasket that came out. Very thin material for the most part, but probably important I'm guessing. Any ideas what to do next?
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Just bought a 2022 DR650, all stock from the showroom and it tries to die when I take off in first gear. I have to give it quite a bit of gas to keep it alive. Could it be a jetting issue? Or is it just warming up very slow? Any help is appreciated.
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Does anyone know if there are any aftermarket slip-on exhausts that fit a 1892 DR250? Mine is so rusty that it's basically falling apart, and I need a new one, but can't find an OEM one anywhere. Thanks, R
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Hi All, I just lowered my DRZ 400 E 2001, 2.75 inches, and shortly after doing that and taking the Bumble Beast out for a spin, it stopped working. Yes, it was install correctly, lol. But, I cannot start it and my guy thinks it's that lever and wire above the Clutch. I am not sure what the heck that thing is called to be honest and I really want to ride my arse off ASAP! Can anyone help let me know where I can find it on ASAP notice and also what that darn thing is called? -
Super low hour head gasket failure, brought to you by an aftermarket company - in this case, cheap parts that work sometimes. My standard advice is to use OEM parts in critical locations of the engine because they have a track record of being thoroughly tested and the quality controls on the manufacturing end are more stringent than the aftermarket, however, I decided on this build to see if the aftermarket could deliver since it's more cost-effective and convenient to buy seals, gaskets, etc. as a package. I get asked often which companies/parts to use and from time to time like to independently test components I wouldn't normally run. I built this engine using new parts from the bottom up and the engine has less than 10 hours on it. Specifically, a new OEM cylinder was used and the OEM cylinder head was skimmed .003" at the time the valve seats were recut so the components comprising the joint were 👌. Tightening torques and procedures were, of course, used and referenced from the Honda service manual. What Does a Head Gasket Failure Look Like? The failure occurred opposite the cam chain side of the cylinder. For those of you new to diagnosing problems you have to look for gas tracking across the gasket. This failure perpetuated slowly and eventually enough coolant pooled in the cylinder while the engine was shut down that at startup it became obvious. A plume of white smoke leaving your tailpipe is a dead giveaway that you're burning coolant. Prior to that, I was seeing a small amount of coolant blow out of the radiator overflow - another sign of a potential head gasket leak. Hot starting was also harder than normal. What are the differences between a Honda OEM head gasket and a cheap aftermarket head gasket? In this case, the manufacturer of the cheap gasket chose to remove the orifices used to control coolant flow from the cylinder into the head. These are the four small holes on the Honda gasket that are much larger on the cheapo. Honda spent energy on strategically applying their coating while cheapo did not. Lastly, there could be differences in materials and formation of the protruding beads that help seal everything up, however, I can't say for sure. Do any of those differences matter? That's up to you to decide. For me, I'll need to be compensated before I run this brand of aftermarket head gasket again. The risk/reward doesn't seem to be worth the minor savings the aftermarket gasket provides. Are you implying all aftermarket parts are bad? No, to make a sweeping statement like that wouldn't be fair to the companies out there working hard to bring consumers good quality products. Just like most other industries there are differing levels of quality present in the market place. What do you check if your head gasket fails? The flatness of the cylinder and cylinder head mating surfaces. Often times gaskets fail because these components overheat and become warped. The ideal way to check flatness is with a surface plate and feeler gauges, however, when the engine is in the frame parallels or anything with a straightedge will do the job. To get even more gritty your OEM service manual will prescribe how to check and what amount of warpage is acceptable. When I checked after this failure the parts were still perfectly flat. Other tips and pointers? Clean the engine and surrounding area as best as you can before you open the engine up while it’s in the frame. Dirt contamination in your engine will lead to premature wear. While you have access to your cylinder take a look at the cylinder walls for abnormal wear. Deep striations or scratches are a no-no and cause for concern. Check the top of the piston for signs of detonation. Remove any carbon buildup that easily comes off with a paper towel, however, refrain from breaking large deposits free. Carbon deposits are extremely hard and if they get stuck in your ring lands or between the rings and cylinder will cause scratching. When installing the new gasket be extremely conscious of the possibility of dirt getting on the gasket mating surfaces. Dirt stuck between the cylinder, gasket, and cylinder head will impeded sealing. Need help rebuilding your engine? Check out my books - The Two and Four Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbooks. Each book will walk you through diagnosing engine issues and teach you the right way to rebuild your engine. The books feature stunning, high-quality color pics that make text explanations come to life. Available at: DIYMotoFix.com Amazon Anybody else get burned and should've known better? - Paul
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I’ve got a Suzuki RM250 and it’s gonna need some new tires soon, I ride it more on road then on dirt but I do go on the occasional trail, the trails are pretty tame, nothing tough, so I was thinking about getting dual sport tires but I don’t know how they work because I’ve never bought dirt bike tires before so I really have no clue, so with the dual sport tires does the size of my tires that I have how equal the exact tire that fits on that rim or on that bike? My back tire for example is 100/90-19, so does that mean that if I bought other tires with the rims included that’s the only size that will fit on the motorcycle, or does that mean that only that size tire fits on those specific rims, I’m fine with buying rims because I haven’t found dual sport tires that fit the rims I have but I don’t want the rims and tires just not to fit the bike.
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I’ve got a Suzuki RM250 and it doesn’t have spark and I think it’s the stator but I can’t find a stator for the life of me, I’m finding lots of 2002 stators, my bike is a 2000, will it fit? It looks identical but I really don’t know. Also if anyone has a stator for a 2000 Suzuki RM250 for sale please let me know, thanks
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Just got an 07 drz400sm. Previous owner said it worked but had been sitting a few months with a blown head gasket. After replacing the gasket and cleaning the carb repeatedly, bike still won't idle. Starting cold, fully choked, it starts up and sounds pretty nice. Then switching to half choke, it will sit around 2800rpm. Ive test ridden it, and it does great. Fine through the rev range, but with or without choke, if I try to get it to sit anywhere below 2800rpms, it dies. Once it gets warmed up I hear an occasional skip, rpms varying a couple hundred in either direction. Played around w throttle screw, set fuel mix screw to stock 2.5 and played with that too. It's been like this since the first time I put the carb in, and since then I've completely disassembled it and gone through it w carb cleaner, and pine sol soaked multiple times. Also cleared with compressed air twice, all circuits. Stock carb, airbox, jets, and exhaust. At a loss, any help would be very much appreciated. This bike's supposed to be my daily driver. Thanks, CJ
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had very weak spark in my 2000 Suzukirm250 so I opened it up and started testing with a multimeter until I came to the conclusion that the magneto is bad ( I used a service manualthe whole time) but I can’t find the magneto, I’m pretty new to this and I can’t figure it out because when ever I look it up it gives me the whole stator, am I just blind and dumb or am I missing something? And before people start asking yes I did all the basic tests like making sure the plug was good or checking the boot or disconnecting the kill switch, I ran out of options and the readings from the multimeter and the manual say that the magneto is bad, byt I don’t know where and what the hell it is, any help?
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As the title states I'm currently running a 2014 Husky FE450 .. brilliant bike has REGO for the road and comes with set of motard wheels+ dirt wheels oversize brakes + Rekluse clutch along with many enduro parts FC muffler etc so awesome 4st ... been awesome having a two in one kind of bike but as we know that can also mean its not perfect at either >> so yet again after many harder enduro rides over the summer ..I'm yearning for the new steed >>well prob 2x ... one likely to be a KTM duke ,, the other a pure enduro beast weight is my main issue with the 2014 FE450 >> 249lbs dry great 90% of the time ... but during some of the harder enduro sections in the mountains events locally it can really wear you out and if you for any reason have an issue the weight just compounds those issues ...usually this can see me making mistakes and ending rolling down hills then restarting in some horrible locations >>Rekluse auto clutch has been brilliant in helping I'm a converted ... pretty experience off-road-enduro rider 30yrs+ .. (along with near on 20x different dirt bikes over those years) 175lbs -6ft tall - fast -tech enduro focus mate had a 18 KTM 350exc thats 17lbs+ lighter ...I'm certainly tempted to checkout out 2017++ 350 .. FX,XCF,EXC,FE ... My last light enduro bike was an enduronlize 97 RM250 .... loved the 2ST fun factor so very light great suspension bad too low geared .... so also tempted to go down the 2017+ KTM 250xc / exc or HUSKY TE250 ...Gasgas (not a fan of the KTM 300exc I rode ..I like some top-end in my 2st + lighter feel ). So yes you can see I'm KTM owned bikes focused ..got a friend thats a KTM mechanic + I like the higher tech parts they come stock with ... I need not only lighter weight but decent fuel range ...also decent top speed 70mph + so 6spd -
Restoring a rusted Suzuki TS250 engine - Bearing question
user9273 posted a topic in Suzuki 2 Stroke
Hey, Im rebuilding a really neglected old 72 TS250 engine and have it completely apart. I have all new bearings to install except the gear shift select drum bearing which is a 12x18x15 needle bearing I dont have. The old one is completely rusted out. I do have a tin-bronze sintered bushing that is the correct size. Would this work in place of the needle bearing that the shift drum rides in? I doubt it would wear being a hard bronze bushing submerged in oil, no? Ignore the dirty engine internals in the pic - All has been disassembled and cleaned now, and any rusted parts are being replaced if they are unusable. -
Hello DRZ community. I need help with my JD jetting Setup here in Switzerland. The bike is a 2007 drz 400 SM. The exhaust is a slip on G.P.R. Satinox with a silencer/muffler in it. Right now I ran the following setup: Pilot:25 Needle: Blue 4th clip Main Jet: 160 Fuel mixture screw: 2.5 turns out I'm around 1600ft (500m) above sea level. Temperature is around 71f (22 Celsius) The bike won't start unless I use the throttle a little. The power isn't that great either. I have problems getting into wheelies using the second gear. Your help is really appreciated! -
Bought this bike used a few months ago and it was dark out so i didnt notice this crack in the rear hub. Its on the sprocket side. Ive been riding on it for for months like this and the crack hasnt widened or spread at all. Not sure what to do. Wheels are VERY expensive for this bike. See attached pics. replacing the wheel would involve me setting the offset and Truing and everything which would be my first time doing so, So im a bit nervous. if i do replace would this wheel work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Warp-9-Racing-Wheel-Assembly-Rear-SM-4-25-x-17-/203082994931?_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:AQAFAAACQBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkZ%2F%2B%2BjiCUbgvzhyyof3jXZImghya5nEYeCSGpRoKGyxggFptQigOK5bcC1c35q4g3KfSUpDLtwQKVYGJxLvVF39eqxlTdsXsLmCsv4rlqXYS585Xjj4qcxqZB1YXkaznMzILBMu%2Btm0lXxIEYOVPs0CwcTVCsMQztXqIpW%2FHfrsIHq8hEdVJnojX35mqP91Ws2%2BCiyZNPnZjKH9JT0rVV%2FdrPhUWM0wS%2Fwsf0967CuaZHSaIJUr11wA1FUusReOUJsMiXCo0MHdZ8iBfllfyfR%2BIaJue0pVrThwV2wCytEWJyNB7FEsQsyXQB7BnvMD8L7JRVCZSJX4qYizd6f3XSYhNA5WtyZVM7TLg9poSzIa3%2FpAmnntzMxkvvGXIR%2FQFodUVv6b8ixkIZ1JSAKsS7t0u0ULF9a6vyZpjiXA%2B1a%2FM8I8vcNmDlqFS5wNC28tXE6evRJuBVAStcjcRnyXFD5y9K7OdL6eO47ygED%2BLCuy64KNLP1H9ZJwlCtqoMZKAWrIisy7DVUtHjzC5WiyO52cqySioDOXixpa82dYQeZ0YnqYGaQu393N0Wk%2BLlCe%2Fs%2B77GIJ%2Bi3d4W2fXIJOhFyGMB0w8yZ5gCt4y3yK%2BH8JTKo2bzvqR8dGhC%2FkjSXnvb1rIvoBqNItfVpNu3ED0JPsqILgEMpXJf9sPjDWERX63JO%2B5VpxQkLEA6JL7E%2BuTwSZPVWh2IW1sNN5wAOGIjAw%3D%3D%7Ccksum:20308299493170f419abae4f4cec81a863c682a9c3f4%7Campid:PL_CLK%7Cclp:3268220&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=203082994931&targetid=1192081307704&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=21143&campaignid=11774733487&mkgroupid=113829509425&rlsatarget=pla-1192081307704&abcId=9300474&merchantid=118949009&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6Pibua2u7wIVUr7ACh0QCgxKEAQYCSABEgIdUfD_BwE&pageci=64794503-fa44-4bce-8f8e-239a0d1d78fe
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I have a 1986 Suzuki LT230 quadsport and the rod is bad and it needs a new one. I was wondering if there is a engine that I can swap in that will mount up, or i would buy the same engine, but i cant find one. Let me know any information or anything you got, thanks!
