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Showing results for tags 'timing'.
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sup guys, i got a bit of a story. a few days ago i bought a 2004 crf250r for 800 bucks off a guy who didnt know much except a few things... 1. has an oil leak (shift linkage seal was half out ) 2. had a 'full rebuild' by the previous owner 3. had a hard time starting so i snatched it up, hoping it would be a quick fix. its not exactly going that way. i brought it home, cleaned out the carb, and fired up after several kicks. the idle was pretty high, but wouldn't come down without completely dying on me. so as the bike is running and im trying to get the idle down, i noticed two things; 1. the thing backfires practically every 2-3 seconds and 2. the exhaust pipe was so red-hot, it looked like it was about to turn into a damn puddle of molten metal. realizing there was something seriously wrong with the bike, i shut it off. this brings us to my first question. why in the frick is my pipe getting red hot and shooting flames after 60 seconds or running ? and whats with the back firing ? now for part 2 of story time. with a bit of research my dad's opinion, i assuming that there was some sort of problem with the exhaust valves. long story short, the exhaust valves were perfectly fine. my next thought was to check the timing. take a look at the pictures in the link below and let them speak for themselves. https://www.pinkbike.com/u/Ziggypop14/album/nothing/ as you can now see, the notch on the magneto cover does not completely match up with the notches on the flywheel. i noticed there are two notches on the flywheel, where should the notch on the cover versus the two on the flywheel? im assuming in between the two? i researched and found a few things that could be at fault. 1. the cam cog slipped on the shaft. which really cant be it since at TDC the two notches on the cam cog are still completely level, and if the cog slipped, the notches would be off. Right? 2. the flywheel slipped on the crankshaft. this one makes the most sense because how else can the flywheel notches be off while the other notches are dead on. but how the hell is that even possible? the flywheel nut is so tight that i cant even get it off to see if the keyway is still intact. (still trying to get it off, jamming sockets in gears) unless the idiot who rebuilt the bike didnt put the keyway in (which is entirely possible), i cannot see this as the solution. this brings us to my 2nd and final question. Why aren't the flywheel notches lined up even with the piston at TDC and everything else lining up ? any help is is appreciated, i need my garage back!! cheers, Riley
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HI guys, last post recieved great help so hoping the same here, basically I think I’m experiencing some timing issues on my 02 rm125. The timing marks on the magneto were slightly out by like a degree or less, in favour of an earlier spark, worried that I was gunna fry the piston, I moved the timing marks by a degree in favour of a later spark just for piece of mind that I wasn’t harming my freshly rebuilt engine, since doing this o think I can hear the bike ‘pinging’ when riding at a steady speed, and has developed a ticking noise from the top end, it runs okay maybe a little splutter before the valve opens and possibly down on power a little but I ride a sports bike so maybe it’s just not that fast compared, but once it’s cleared out it sings through the gears as it should, can anyone help? Will post a picture of current position on magneto, also I haven’t proper tool for measuring tdc but by feel on the fly wheel this is pretty much where it’s at, that can’t be right considering the crank turns anti clockwise?
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Hi guys I took of my stator cover and starter. i Put everything back together in correct order but no spark dont know if there are any wires that could have pulled out or disconected Please if any body has an idea or know of anything i can look at it would be much appreciated.. Kind Regards. Clueless
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I just finished rebuilding the top end on my 2001 wr250f. The bike has an Athena 290 big bore cylinder and piston. I never checked the valve clearance before the rebuild. After rebuilding, I checked the valve clearances. All three intake valves have zero clearance. I cannot get my .03mm gauge to slide in. The exhaust valves are only slightly on the tight side with .015mm each. I double checked and made sure I wasn't on the exhaust stroke. I have zero clearance on all valves on the exhaust stroke. I even tried turned the flywheel back and forth from TDC and measuring to see if my timing was off, causing the zero clearance. These test also had zero clearance on the intake valves. Have all three of my intake valves worn down to the point where there is no clearance? When I had the head off, the bottom of the valves looked decent. Slightly blackened, with a small amount of carbon, but I didnt notice any major wear, chips or cracks. Anyone got any idea what's going on here? Thanks in advance for your guys' wisdom.
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I have a 2008 CRF250R, and this bike WILL NOT run. Not with kicking your leg off, not with push starting. Every few kicks it'll backfire out of the airbox and that's all it'll do. Has new cam chain, hot cam, piston ring. I have checked, rechecked, reset, rechecked, disassembled, reassembled, and set timing for days and this thing will still only backfire. PLEASE HELP! Things that have been checked: Flywheel and woodruff key, no damage to key Cam chain tensioner changed to manual, its not too tight or loose Piston ring set right and staggered, Timing is set to match on right side timing mark, left side flywheel hashes, and cam lobs are back and matched with the top of the head, and TDC was verified while setting. Valves are within 0.005, exhaust is a 120 and the smallest shim so I can't get it and closer. Wiring harness replaced, grounds cleaned, connections cleaned, spark plug replaced. I'm completely at a loss and open to any ideas you guys might have.
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Hey guys Scott here, sorry to post this as the first post, but i have spent quite a while searching various threads with no luck. So here goes, got a 2017 140L for my son for Christmas. Very clean, seemingly good running bike. While riding today, he choked it down while on start off on a slight incline, then when tried to re-start, it sounded like the starter was free spinning. So we loaded it up and got it back to the house. After looking at the starter gear and limiter gear, it appeared fine. I pulled the side cover (magneto/generator/rotor cover maybe?) and noticed the rotor/magneto bolt was very loose. I tightened it, but not knowing spec, I tightened with a ratchet until I couldn't hold the magneto/rotor and it would spin over. Buttoned it all back up and it fired up and ran. It being cold out, it cut off even with the choke on, I tried to start it again and the magneto seemed to slip again, so i used a dewalt 1/4" impact driver to tighten the bolt, thinking it maxed out at about 100lbs of torque and should be ok, if I didn't stay on the bolt, just snug it up decently. After tightening the bolt, I put the covers back on and tried to start it. It now acts as if the timing is out, but the engine turns over easily and I am getting a spark at the plug. I would think that if timing was out it would be difficult to turn over. I pulled the cam chain cover and lined the cam gear up with TDC, but the magneto/rotor isn't lined up with "T" being in the 12:00 position. Could this be an issue? My question is, could the magneto slip in position, while the flex plate/flywheel stays in place without shearing the key? and does the magneto need to be lined up and the cam gear? I also checked the woodruff key and its good. I honestly cant figure out how it would have jumped timing with the timing chain being tight and the key not being sheared. Any insight or advise would be great. thanks again Scott
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I bought a 2006 crf250r with loud backfiring I noticed when I aligned the piston at tdc using the gear on the right side of the bike the fly wheel and cam line up perfect, but when I use the kick starter and listen for the click nothing lines up. Any ideas? Anyone else experience this before? Anything helps.
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So as I was putting my bikes engine back together, I forgot to align top dead center of the crankshaft with the camshaft. When the flywheel is in top dead center, the camshaft is not. Is this a serious issue that I will need to reopen my engine to fix, or can I get by without it? Sorry if it’s a bit of a noob question. My guess is I have to re disassemble the engine, but i just want to make sure. Best regards, - Brandon
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Good evening! Question: what exactly does “mapping” mean? Can or why would I remap my 350 SX-F? Is this a tool I buy or is it even possible with my bike? To what great gain? Thanks!
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i got this 2005 kx85a last Novemberish and i only paid 250 for it and he said all it needed was some clutch work. i ended up reringing and getting a gasket kit for it just to be safe and i had to replace a shifter spring. when i was assembling it i realized there was a totally different crankshaft in it and it was putting the rotor in the wrong spot so it wouldn't spark on time once i had it back together. besides the rotor keyway placement, everything was fine with the crankshaft. i just ended up getting a rotor that i think is the same year as the crankshaft so that it would theoretically work. i believe the crankshaft is from a 2009 or a 2007. note that the stator is close to the same position or even the same on the three years of the bike (2005, 2007, 2009). so what it's doing now is it runs but it bogs down in the lower end of first gear and it sounds really weak. i have to feather the throttle for a couple seconds to get it up into higher rpms. but once it's in higher rpms it runs fine and it has lots of power. but when it gets back down to lower rpms it can barely continue driving. i can get it to idle fine when it's warmed up. so i'm guessing it's timing and i've already tried to adjust the stator position but not a lot of luck. i'm not sure if it's bored out so i'll have to check because it might have the wrong size jets in the carburetor for the bore. but i doubt it is bored over. if anyone has any help i would be glad to listen:)
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Anyone running a Vortex ignition on a YZ250F 2014-2018, or 450 for that matter? What advantages does it have over tuning FI/IG with the GYTR power tuner, and are there maps readily available for stock or mod and race fuel? I've messed around with the GYTR tuner on one of my bikes- 2017 YZ250F with bolt ons and VP racing fuel, but there is a lack of maps to run and I've heard there is more power to be had with the Vortex Ignition. I'm aware there are other less costly avenues to add horsepower.
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Tore bike down to check valve clearances, bike runs great. When I check with a feelers gauge I can't fit the .10mm gauge in, the biggest I can get is the .04mm and I can't seem to get my timing marks "I" and the marks on the cam sprocket to line up correctly am I doing something wrong pls help. Timing mark on flywheel "I" set at TDC and piston is all the way up. Any help would be appreciated.
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Hi all, so I recently snagged an 02 WR250f off of Craigslist that "blew while riding" and was seized and wouldnt turn over for dirt cheap as a project bike to fix and flip. (story of rebuild at the bottom if interested). I bought new parts, put everything back together and am having trouble setting the timing. Ive been down almost every thread out there in search of an answer and cant find anything conclusive. SO, Ive put the engine at TDC and set the intake and exhaust cam marks at the top of the head, confirmed that there are 13 pins between top timing marks, and that the lobes are indeed pointing away from each other at the 11 and 2 positions. After all that, I can "kick" the bike over by hand, easily. it feels like there is no compression and one of the valve sets is opening too soon, or late. Ive moved both cams forward and backward one tooth each way, experimenting, hoping to find a position that will run. and cant seem to get it to work. At one point, it did start, but would only run at mid to high rpm. but I dont remember what position I had the cams. I've also read about putting a yz cam in the wr, no clue if thats been done or not (how can you tell?). so that might also be throwing me off a little. any help would be awesome! -Evan Rebuild Story: So the head looked to be brand new or rebuilt as it was shiny and new looking and the rest of the motor had a used patina. It turns out the water counter balance gear had taken a dump and taken out the water pump gear in the process and had jammed the engine from turning. So I got a new counter balance gear and water pump gear, threw it all in and noticed the counter balance on the other side of the engine from the gear (next to the timing chain) was rubbing on the timing chain guide. It was making contact, but was still able to rotate all the way around. I am guessing that is what caused the gear to shatter. So, I used a dremel to grind the back side of the guide down just a tad where there was a wear mark and there doesnt seem to be any more contact.
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Kids bike was having problems with power. The bike revs out quickly up top. Bottom feels good. PV is clean. The connection rod with 2 cups is not moving up to open the flap. So, is this an issue with the centrifugal component?
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So, I picked up a '03 CRF150F a few weeks back. Found out later that it had been rebuilt but UTI, supposedly. It has a BBR exhaust and has been re-jetted with a BBR jetting kit. Ran good until it started having difficulties starting. Changed the oil and it made it easier to start for about a week. Put in a new Rev Box because that's what it had in it, and that has fixed the hard to start issue. But even more lately, there's been a knocking or clunking sound from the bottom end of the engine. You can only hear this knocking sound though when the engine is returning to idle after revving it in neutral. And it has this knock or clunk whether its cold or warmed up, although it does get louder and more frequent when it's warmed. Don't know what it is and haven't figured that out, but when I was test driving it, I got up to fifth gear and all of a sudden it sounded like a valve or something from the top end broke. It was if the engine lost all compression because you could hear the air just blowing in and out of the cylinder. Pushed the bike forward and I could feel that the engine wasn't seized up, but trying to start it with the kick start wouldn't work. Wasn't able to start the bike so I removed the engine and disassembled the top end expecting to see a broken valve or one that wasn't seating right. However, the cylinder head is black and has quite a bit of carbon buildup, so I don't know if that would cause it. Or maybe a valve is out of adjustment or the timing? The connecting rod seems to be tight enough because when you pull the piston up and push it down, there's no slack, except for side to side, which is normal I believe. Valves? Timing? Carbon buildup? Something in the lower end? Any ideas?
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Hey everyone, new member here. I recently traded my 2001 Honda 250EX for a 1985 XR200R. The bike is tight all around and looks like it wasn't used much in its life. However, there is a noise coming from the engine that's not from the crank. It's up in the head somewhere. I adjusted the vales and started the bike up, only to hear a slightly quieter noise which led my father and I to believe that it's the Cam chain. If the bike ends up needing one, where can I find an aftermarket chain? I've checked eBay, xrsonly, and the normal part sites and I am not able to find anyone who has a chain in stock. I called my local dealer and they said they could get one for $70, but I just think that I can find it online for cheaper. It doesn't have to be OEM. Thanks
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I’m working on a friend’s 1967 Honda CT90 and cannot get it started to save my life. He bought it a few years ago and it’s never been started since he’s owned it. He believes it’s been parked 6-8 years but the license plate is 1988. I expected the fuel tank to be rusty inside, but surprisingly the only rust was the bottom side of the gas cap. The inside bottom of the tank is covered with what appears to be black bubbly goo. I guess it’s just old varnished dried up gas. I decided to leave it alone after unsuccessfully soaking it in denatured alcohol, then gasoline. Then when I removed the carburetor, I discovered it was dry with thick white crust inside from water intrusion. Then discovered the intake tube, as well as the cylinder was full of rusty, gooey water. It appeared to have been there many years. The cylinder wall was rusty and very pitted, so I ordered a refurbished cylinder/piston kit on eBay. The bottom end has no evidence of water intrusion and still turns freely. The cylinder and piston replacement went smoothly. Then I cleaned up the carburetor and rebuilt it with a kit, also off of eBay. The bowl has a lot of deep pitting from water over the years. One of the pits had gone all the way through the metal and had been previously repaired with J-B Weld. This particular carburetor seems to be the rare one with a 4-screw bowl. So, now that I finally have it all back together, I’m unable to get it running. Although it has actually started a couple of times, it would only barely idle for a few seconds, then die. After many hundreds of kicks on the kickstarter, all I get is an occasional backfire through the carburetor and spitting fuel out of the carburetor. I’ve double/triple checked the timing, valve clearance, points, etc. had the carburetor apart 3-4 times. I’ve tried everything I can think of: -Fuel tank is clean, w/ new fuel lines and fresh gas. -Refurbished cylinder, bored .025 over, w/new piston, rings, wrist pin. -New intake valve, lapped valve seats. -Compression tested 130 psi. -Rebuilt the carburetor. Air adjustment screw and idle screw both set at two turns out. Float is good. -New spark plug. Gap is .030, spark is strong. -Valve clearance is .002 on both valves.(Set at TDC) -Points have been cleaned w/sandpaper and set to .014. -Spark advance mechanism is installed at TDC, not 180° off. -Timing is correct. Fires exactly on the “F” mark at TDC. -New battery, fully charged. I’m at my wit’s end.
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The screw on the right side of the bike is in the notch completely without the washer, The cam lobes appear to all be facing the correct way (i read that the lobes should point to aprox 930 and 1230) but correct me if im wrong please. The square block on the flywheel appears to line up with the little black box inside the cover. The piston is at the top of the stroke... But the dots on the cams (and the lines) dont really line up 100%. Its almost like im half a tooth off but how is that possible? A full tooth seems like it would be too much. Please help. KTM 250 SXF 2018 -
It is not clear to me in the shop manual if actual timing adjustments are possible on the TTR-230. Can anyone confirm? I am working from a 2005 shop manual on a 2014 bike. TIA!
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I know this has probably been over a hundred times. But im at wits end. Does anyone know the STOCK timing for a 2000 wr400f? Right now i got it at intake came is at 9 12 and 3. And i got the exhaust cam retarded (clockwise) one link for the yz time? Is this right for a 2000? Ive heard that the 2000 wr400 the stock time was one of the cams retatded one link? Idk..it wont crank for nothin..it ran the other night for 20 min perfect. And hasnt since. Bowl keeps overflowing. Ive adjusted the float and tried to blow through the inlet with the float shut and it was sealed...its getting spark. Seems to have great compression. ..idk WTF else it could be! !??? Im at my wits end with this bike...
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I just replaced the rings in my 07 yz450f and when i put it back together it did not kick start so i pull started it and it ran (kinda) but at high rpms it would bog. i know its not the carb because i had it in another bike and it ran fine. but then i could not start it a second time. it would start for 1 or 2 seconds but not run. so i took it apart and found the timing was off (more then i thought) but one of the cam timing marks was always to high or to low. so i got it as close as i could but now it has a ton of compression, is that good? please help
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Hi all, I recently picked up a 1978 Honda XL350 for $800. It wasn't running when I got it, but I recently rebuilt a CL350 so I figured this wouldn't be an issue. I've rejetted the carb, and am now fine tuning the valve timing, ignition and cam chain adjustment. I used this video as a guide: How to set a Motorcycle Points Ignition, Statically However, when I connect a test light (positive to the wire coming from the points, negative to ground) it doesn't light up at any point in the crank rotation. I know the spark plug still sparks when I kick it over so I'm a bit perplexed. Could this be part of the reason I can't get this thing started? Any advice is appreciated.
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Hello. Im struggling with this one. 1996 Suzuki DR350se. Ran great until I parked it. I haven't driven it in 2 years. pulled it out and rode to store a couple months ago. when almost home, at a stop sign, it coughed and died. didn't want to start but did for a minute and spit out a huge cloud of black smoke. then wouldn't run again. I tinkered with it a bit and pulled the stator hoping it was a sheared woodruff key. sure enough! replaced the key and put back together. now it starts and idles although not well (better with choke on). as soon as I give it any throttle, it dies. It feels like ignition timing to me. I've gone through the carb and cleaned it 5 times with no change. Ive replaced the spark plug. Ive also tried giving it a light mist of starter fluid while cracking the throttle thinking its a lean issue and no change. Ive also sprayed starter fluid around carb while idling to see if theres a vacuum leak and found none. I dont think its carb related. stock CV carb. Pilot jet is clear. diaphragm looks ok. tried manually lifting main needle while cracking throttle and no help. What else could cause this? Is there a way to check ignition timing with a timing light? Thanks!
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So here's a question. How do I check if my CDI unit powered off a stator energizing coil is firing at the right time? The CDI is not energised unless I'm kicking over the motor so just turning the motor with a socket spanner will not generate a spark. If the motor would run I could put a strobe light on the timing mark but it won't start. The bike is a KLX300 so it is kick start only, no starter motor. The bike was running fine but the CDI unit and stator energize coil both failed so I rewound the stator coil and bought a new CDI unit. I get a good spark when kicking over with the plug removed and held against an earth. But with the plug in it gets wet after kicking over a few times so I figure it is getting fuel but not firing at the right time, but open to other suggestions!
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Hey guys! Just assembling my 1984 Xr250r and was wondering if the the pickup for the pulse generator had to be set a certain way? There doesn’t seem to be any markings on the crank but I find it hard to believe it can be set where ever. If anyone knows how to set this up it would be much appreciated! Thanks
