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Found 9 results

  1. I have been running honda gn4 10w40 in both engine and trans for a couple years now as the manual calls for. However the trans oil seems to not last as long and dosnt seem to hold up very well in the trans side. I bought some pro honda 80w/85w trans oil to try out instead. HOWEVER IM HESITANT TO TRY IT BECUASE IDK IF IT IS SAFE TO RUN IN THE TRANS INSTEAD OF THE GN4 10W40! CAN ANYONE HELP ME OUT HERE, THANKS IN ADVANCE!
  2. Ok so ill keep it short and sweet. I had an issue with a kx250 engine locking up. I checked before i went to splitting the case. Once i did i found the culprit to be the top input gear wheel thats supposed to spin on the shaft. It was completely seized and ive tried everything i can to get it off to no avail. Is their any way to get this gear off or would i have to cut it off?
  3. Hey everyone! So i am rebuilding a 2003 cr250 and I got the wrench rabbit kit. The kit came with all potentially chinese bearings so I bought prox koyo crank bearings. I put my bearings in the the freezer right now so its nice and cold tmr. My question is that by setting my cases in the oven and heating them to 240 F destroy my tranny bearings? If yes should I be ok using the hot rod tranny bearings that came with the wrench rabbit kit? Thanks sorry for the late post
  4. Hey everyone. Its my first time ever touching a 2 stroke engine so sorry for my vocab. So I have a cr250 2002 that I recently purchased with a full motor with good trans and the top end taken off since it wasnt working properly. The case had a small whole where the crank spins on the bottom causing the fuel to leak out. The guy gave me the bike with the full engine and a extra taken apart same engine he had with the good casing. So my question is that I am going to be putting a full rebuild kit https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CR-250R-WISECO-ENGINE-REBUILD-KIT-CRANKSHAFT-PISTON-GASKETS-2002-2004/190811143511 its a weisco top and bottom end. The kit doesnt come with tranny bearings so should I replace them while I am there or should I be good the bearings spins ok with no weird movement. Also which one is better wiesco bottom end or a hot rods for 2 storkes. Thank you and stay safe out there!
  5. Might be a dumb question but I’m just kinda curious do any of you guys switch transmission oil brands? I’m talking you’ve been using one brand and then try out another one? Ever since I’ve done my clutch I’ve used motul trans oil, which is kinda becoming hard to find at the shops around me. Just didn’t know if a different brand would make any difference at all in the clutch since the plates have been soaked in a certain brand of oil for over a year?
  6. Running into some issues with a 2002 DRZ400s. The bike has 10k miles and is new to me. Upon pulling the filter I see small metal shavings in it. They are no bigger than the tip of a mechanical pencil. Some other symptoms on the bike are a noise near the left side top end/stator area that is pronounced when in neutral. The noise get quieter when in gear with the clutch in. I pulled out the stator to check for issues and same with the clutch. The clutch springs are beyond factory tolerances but everything else looks good. The bike runs very well and shifts through the gears without any issues. That being said I do suspect the clutch kit needs to be replaced, or I need to adjust the clutch properly. Unless the clutch lever is pulled the bike will not start in neutral, and the bike dies shifting into first with the clutch lever pulled. These could be separate issues, but putting all info I have out there. TIA!
  7. I was in first gear and my left grip slipped off and caused me to give it gas and go over on the left side of the bike on hard pack ground. It forced the shift lever up really high and now its stuck in 1st gear. I can get it to go in to 2nd about 50% of the time with a really hard shift but barely into third. If i shift down all the way its in 1st gear, and then when i do a full shift up it goes into neutral. I can ride up in 1st and it rides fine so the trans isn't locked up or anything. Something's definitely wrong but i don't know what, shift forks maybe? Can somebody please point me in the right direction of what's wrong and if it's something worth trying to do myself. Also does the case need to be split? please help. 1995 husqvarna 250 (2 stroke)
  8. Hello all! I am looking into traveling the Trans America Trail on my DRZ400E. Starting in Rhode Island, ending in Southern California; returning East on RT66. [~6'000 miles dirt, and then ~4,000 miles road return trip] 2003 DRZ400-E ~6k miles: total on bike - 5k miles: lightly ridden, never seen dirt - 0.7k miles: %100 hard off road [past year] Frequent Oil changes, Air Filter changes {again, well maintained but ridden hard the past year} Front and Rear Suspension rebuilt, carburetor rebuilt all last year Stock everything except FMF power bomb header and exhaust muffler, and Vapor Trail Tech , lights + fork socks Expected Maintenance: Top End Rebuild, Timing, Valves adjusted [Have not done compression test, but i would expect new top to be necessary] obvious things such as Brake Pads, Fluids, Chain/Sprockets, Tries, Heavy Tubes Does This Bike Seem Worthy Of Such A Trip? Or am i better off selling to find a newer model?
  9. Hello all! My name is Miles and I need some help gauging what to expect for condition/"reliability" you could say, of my DRZ400E for cross country travel! I am looking into traveling the Trans America Trail. I'm from Rhode Island and found an alternate rout where I can start on the West border of Connecticut. Ending in Colorado, to Nevada, then California; and cruising something along the lines of RT66 back. [just for reference, don't mean to ramble] The Machine: 2003 DRZ400-E ~6k miles total - 5k lightly ridden, never seen dirt - 0.8k %100 hard off road [past year] Frequent Oil changes, Air Filter changes {I ride with the guy I purchased it from nearly daily. He was good about maintenance on the regular, but also pushe the bike in the woods just as much!} Front and Rear Suspension rebuilt, carburetor rebuilt all last year Stock everything except FMF power bomb header and exhaust muffler, and Vapor Trail Tech, lights + fork socks Expected Maintenance: Top End Rebuild, Timing, Valves adjusted [Have not done compression test, but i would expect new top to be necessary] obvious things such as Brake Pads, Fluids, Chain/Sprockets, Tries, Heavy Tubes From this information, And Any You Can Think Of To Ask, does this DRZ have potential for the Trans America Trail; a ~6'000 dirt, then ~4,000 road return trip?! Or would I be better off selling it for a newer model? Thanks! -Miles
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