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Found 56 results

  1. Hello guys I have a 2008 Honda xr650l I’m looking to install some led adventure lights on it my question is can anyone give me advice what the best place to wire into is? I was considering wiring into the blue and white ignition wire That is also the high low beam wire, it seems like a good candidate because when started switch is pushed it cuts power and also because i believe it will allow the lights to be on with both high and low beam. What are your guys thoughts can you confirm or deny any advice ?
  2. Good evening all! I need assistance in a big way. My 2008 250 XC is a great bike. I put a headlight on it but there is no plug for the tail light? is there any way to wire it into this system (see photos). What would be the best way to get the light working? Thanks kindly!!
  3. Can someone please tell me where the hell the proper location for the starter solenoid ground wire and the starter solenoid relay ground wire is and please include pictures and not no damn wiring diagrams that requires a Ph.D in &%$#@!ing science to decipher
  4. Hi everyone, A few months ago I was working on installing a new headlight and fairing. I also changed the front blinkers to smaller ones which only used two wires, instead of the 3 factory wires. I zipped tied some of the new wires from the headlight to existing factory wires and had everything wired up correctly to the battery. Then I tried to start the bike to test the headlight, however, when I turned it to the 'ON' position, the instrument cluster did not light up and the bike does not start or crank at all. The fuel pump runs and the blinkers work, but the bike does not function otherwise. I know about checking the wiring harness/connector behind the radiator; I had checked that already and it seemed fine and in tact, however, I will check it again just to make sure. I also removed all zip ties so there's no pulling on factory wires, but nothing has changed. I inspected the wires leading into the instrument cluster and they all seem to be fine. I am not sure what is causing the issue, whether it was a wiring harness being pulled or a wire causing an issue from the blinkers or what. The battery has a full charge as well, so it wasn't dead. Any ideas from anyone or steps to take to diagnose this issue? Thanks!
  5. Just purchased a second hand Australian 1995 XR600R that was used for racing. Previous wiring harness was stripped back to bare essentials and I need to install indicators and controls. Previous owner now unresponsive. I pulled the stator to check it and it looks to be upgraded from stock, or rewound. Has mark ZC9 but can't find a reference to it online. Has three wires—two yellow, one black > white. Images attached for reference. I have a complete wiring harness of a standard Australian 1995 XR600R including CDI, regulator and rectifier, along with all controls, indicators, front and rear lights. But I've no idea which of the stator wires (2x yellow, 1x black>white) connects to what and if I need to purchase anything to make it all work. Any ideas what goes to where from the stator to the wiring harness? Thanks.
  6. Hey guys, I really appreciate you taking the time to read this and possibly give me some help. I have a 1979 Honda XL185s that I have rebuilt and am to the point of wiring it up. I picked up the bike for $50 and it came with no wiring. I wanted to do custom anyways. I am converting to 12v with an antigravity 4cell 12v battery, 12v regulator, along with new oem style CDI, new coil, new pulse generator, ITS ALL NEW and fresh. I am not running any lights, all I need is to wire up the ignition and charging system, kickstart only. Problem is my new reg/rec has different colors than oem with no instructions, the coil I have has an extra wire compared to oem, I’m running a simple two wire on/off keyed ignition switch, subtle differences that leave me confused on where to go. Long story shortish, here is a list of what I have with color of each wire Any help you could give as to where to go with what is much appreciated, I know a few are probably obvious and simple but I’ll list them anyways for full coverage. Ignition switch (in-line fuse coming off of red wire, going straight to pos on batt) Black Red Reg/rec 2 yellow Red Black CDI Blk with female blade connector Two green Red/blk Blue/white Blk/white Pulse generator Blue Green Coil Blk/yellow Green Alternator Yellow/white Yellow Pink Red/black
  7. Hi All, Got a 2019 KTM 350 EXC-F, had an issue where steering bound up and pulled wiring behind the headlight. Took it apart and I've got a connector just hanging, but for the life of me I can't figure out where it goes. Everything is working except the turn signals. Fuse is fine. The connector on the wired end is a white 2 cable. The two wires are Orange & Yellow/Blue. It plugs into a black connector with 2 bare metal leads out the back. Anyone know where this thing belongs? Thanks!
  8. Hi, I’ve been trawling through various forums and Facebook trying to find out what my problem could be. I was hoping some previous threads were going to give me a solution, but no fix yet. Brothers bike won’t start. It will spark every 5-10 kicks. If I kick slowly right on the top of compression It does go. But when kicking repeatedly it doesn’t work. (With and without 12V external supply) We have a second bike at a neighbour which we tried components swapped over. All fine. Tried in the dealer power supply and LED FI and showed no faults - confirmed by trying off various sensors to force a fault. Loop tested each circuit at sensor. And then though wiring loom to ecu. Resistance and Continuity ok. Followed manual for min peak volts from ckp and rotation sense with a made up peak voltage sensor. Ok. Just. It’s charging 12v ok and capacitor ok. Confirmed in bike and bench tested charge and discharge time. Ecu swapped- no difference. TOS/Kill ok. Wiring loom removed and checked over line by line and continuity checked. Ill attach photos of inside of stator/rotor. I think that the CKP/Stator set up has something wrong with it. I think stator ok, but the rotation sense/CKP pick up not working. Im not sure what the start permissives would be on the bike, but I think I’ve covered them all. I’m not sure how the ECU works either....does it look for rotation to start fuel injection for example or does it look for rotation and CKP before ignition. I did notice some slight scoring on the inside of the casing. The stator went away for testing which goes against me think that it’s the CKP/Stator assembly. I thought perhaps rotor, but it’s a nice strong magnet. Hoping to swap stator and see how we get on. TIA for any thoughts on this.
  9. hello everyone. I have a 2006 suzuki ltz400 that im having some issues getting spark. I took the bike on trade (not running) i was told it needed a wiring harness because the one on it was a mess. i managed to get the harness fixed but can not get spark! I've tested the coil, stator, pickup coil, off/on switch, battery, pretty much everything besides the cdi. the issue im having is both of the wires (ground and power) wires running to the coil are grounding. I've looked the harness up and down several times and can not find any splits or anything that would cause the power wire to ground/rub on other wires... any help would be greatly appreciated. i believe the cdi box must be burnt up inside. ive attached a photo of the wiring diagram and circled the wires.
  10. Hi All, I've got a 1988 NX650 which had nasty wiring which lead to a lot of issues starting etc. I've decided to try rewiring with a motogadget m-unit to help reduce wiring and get some of the extra features the m-unit offers. Everything has gone well expect getting a spark and I'm guessing its the CDI as I know they have know issues and I couldn't find anyone who's wires an NX650 or XR650 with an m-unit. Also my CDI was a bodge wiring without the original connectors. Firstly is my below image the correct wiring? If so can anyone also explain a little more what the different connections actually do? i.e. black/white can just be a constant power from the battery. red/yellow is the signal from the start button when its pushed which is also sent to the starter solenoid, when this signal is received the CDI send a signal down the black/yellow to the ignition coil to get the spark. Am I on the right lines? Also not too sure about the pulse gen! Also, anyone who's good with wiring and possibly also understands the m-unit blue from motogadget, below is the OEM wiring diagram, I then tried to simplify it down to just the ignition and charging system and removing the fuse box, then tried to draw the wiring diagram incorporating the m-unit. Am I on the right lines with the wiring? As I said everything else works, lighting etc, starter motor too, just no spark. Any advise would be a massive help. Thanks, Jonny
  11. Hi everyone, I'm new here. I recently bought a 2002 WR 250. It's my first big 2-stroke and I'm really excited to get it out into the wild. Before I can do that, I need to fix a few small issues tho. The previous owner didn't care much for silly legalities, like lights, a speedometer or mirrors. I, on the other hand, really enjoy not getting pulled over to be forcibly seperated from my hard earned money. Luckily, the original wiring loom and most base components like the regulator are still on the bike, although I'll have to make a few fixes here and there. I found out it makes good power, a quick hardwiring on the headlight worked perfectly. I ordered a new universal handlebar switch and will be wiring that in according to the wiring schematic I found in the manual. Hopefully, everything will work without having to completely redo the loom. Now for my question, I want to install a dashboard on my bike, with all the control lights etc. My bike has what seems to be a magnetic pulse counter for the speedo on the forks, there's no wires on it tho. It also has a speedomount, but no speedo. The dashboard wiring is all there (Not sure if it's all good tho). I'm thinking about ordering a cheap Chinese digital dashboard with magnetic pulse drive, and wire all that up to the original loom. (Like this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LCD-digital-dashboard-motocross-tachometer-gauge-speedometer-of-racing-motorcycle-replacement-Refit-sensor-C0024-Car-styling/32817409209.html or this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/WUPP-Motorcycle-Meter-LED-digita-Indicator-light-Tachometer-Odometer-Speedometer-Oil-Meter-Multifunction-With-night-vision/32953485118.html ) Why such a cheap one, you ask? Well, because I'm a man of simple needs. And also I'm a cheapskate and I don't like the idea of paying 150 euro's for a Trail Tech with all kinds of functions I won't use. I'm open for suggestions on a good cheap tacho / speedo dash if these are rubbish. Does anyone have experience wiring something like this up to a WR? Since I have a powersupply without a battery, will these things have issues with resetting or voltage spiking etc.? Can I add a small battery to fix that? There's only one wire from the stator to the rectifier. I'm not familiar with that system, but I can imagine it's a bit less stable than a 3 fase stator and rectifier and it might not be suitable for wiring in a battery. Or should I drop this idea completely and try to source an original dash? A 2nd question I have is about the brake light switch. My bike doesn't have one and I can't find where it's supposed to go. Can anyone tell me where it should be and maybe even give me a part number? That'd be awesome.
  12. Honda XR650L wiring diagram. Here in .jpg, but available as .pdf and also (via link below) in .odg drawing format with layers, editable in LibreOffice format which is a free open-source software suite. I made this because the only diagrams I could find were real low-res ones and I wanted to be able to edit the diagram to account for changes I've made myself to the wiring. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1fyhLKkqjSWUfDFpjXMVDqI5m1-FqfOYj?usp=sharing
  13. Just picked up a 2004 400 ex for 500$. As I got it home and was looking I found this random wire hanging down, (circled in red) it obviously doesn’t go there and was wondering what the heck it is? Also the spot circled in green there’s a little bit of exposed wire, is this a problem when washing? Is there anything I should know before washing the bike?
  14. I bought a tail light/brake light from Rocky Mountain atv for my 2009 TTR 230. I have everything wired together the way I was told to do it but when I turn on the power nothing happens. Maybe I have it wired wrong. 3 wires come out of the light. Red, yellow, and black. The black I used as the ground, The yellow I ran to the brake switch and then to the starter and the red I connected to just the brake switch. This is my first time trying this so it could be very wrong. Anyone know where each wire connects to or if I am missing something? Thanks
  15. Hi everyone, First time poster long time listener. I picked up a 1977 xl100 project for my wife this week and my intention is to turn make it a strictly off road bike. No lights, kick only just the absolute minimum. The bike as it stands is "missing" its wiring harness as well as it's rec/reg, fuse box, battery tray and more. Assuming that the components I have work(coil, stator, contact breaker), I need to know: -will I need a battery -what other components would I need and or can I do away with. -is a custom wiring harness something a wiring NOOB could build -is there a custom wiring resource
  16. well hello all, seems like forever since I posted last. and it has been five years. wow! at least I never quit reading all the posts. as I fix OP's XR's (doing lots of wiring esp) I have noticed that almost all the bikes have an original Honda harness with the dual sport wiring laid over it. most dual sport kits supply new leads for the positive side of new lights etc but most often the add on stuff tags into the Honda GREEN ground wire. the Honda harness had little to control so there is one small (I am hard pressed to call it 18ga) GREEN ground wire running end to end in the harness with a branch off it to frame ground at the coil mount. darn near every harness I look at has a pretty sad looking "branch" wire. that is, the wire is all discolored and brittle from being overloaded. so my thought on this is to remember to inspect that wire when you find yourself having electrical issues... it may not be the cause of your problem but that's a perfect time to check it out and upgrade it. I cut the old wire out any time I remove a tank. feel free to get proactive. have a dandy! neil
  17. Hello all, I recently purchased this light and this wiring harness kit. I know the wiring harness wasn't the cheapest route to go, but I don't have a lot of electrical knowledge and I wanted to make sure I had everything correct. Could anyone please tell me where I'll be plugging that 12v relay into? That's the only connection that I can't figure out. Thanks for the help. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071SKD7SY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B5UXWY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  18. Installed a combined start/kill switch from an R6 to my 2015 Wr450f today. Makes the bars look much cleaner in my opinion. I didn't wire it the conventional way, which had 2 problems. The conventional way has the R6 kill switch attached to the Wr's kill switch wires. This makes the flip switch on the bars reversed. So on is off and off is on. Also, you still would need to press the ignition switch by the dashboard to start the bike, which I didn't like. Here's how I did it: So, I attached the R6 kill switch (both pink wires) to the red and brown wire coming out of the original ignition button on the Wr. Leaving the other yellow and brown wire attached will preserve your low fuel light. Next, cut off the Wr's original starter button, and attach the 2 black wires to the R6 starter switch (black and blue wires). Now it's done. Flipping the switch to the run position will prime the fuel pump, and pressing the start button will start it up as normal. It overall looks cleaner and puts all of the buttons in one place. Here's a quick demonstration.
  19. I need to replace the plug on the wiring harness that connects to the tank of a YZ450F. I've got the tools to crimp terminals, so installing a spare connector would be easy. However, I can't find it as a separate part, and don't want to buy an entire harness. Any suggestions for finding this part? KTM publishes a list of spare connectors for their bikes, but I could not find anything like this for the Yamaha. Thanks in advance!
  20. So I'm just wondering how I would wire up a High/Low beam switch onto the Wr without using the whole tusk lighting kit. Any help would be appreciated.
  21. Looking for folks to do a read here and see if I messed anything up. Ideally someone who does professional installs of the BD/Skene. I'm continuing on with mods for a RTW starting in May. I really wanted the Baja Designs Squadron Pro, as I think I'll have at least some unplanned night travel, and that could happen in remote areas. That head mount stadium lighting looked pretty good. The BD-SP lights have to have a dimmer if you are planning on road travel internationally is my understanding. So I also got the Skene controller sold through Baja Designs. I am not covering the physical install of the light here using the rubber straps, instead this is just the electrical. My requirements were: 1) It must work with the factory high/low switch 2) it must come on when the bike powers one, just like the factory light does. 3) Ideally all wiring changes should be in the headlight areas 4) the wiring should be 'downstream' of the rest of the bike so that electricaly if I botched it or there was a short, only the lightening should be affected. 5) it should be clean. I chopped off all of the connectors on the skene controller and went to bare wire, so it all looks like OEM stuff. Obviously, do this at your own risk, and don't get pissed at me if it does not work. Start by removing the factory headlight. It unscrews on the side and unplugs via the H4 plug which is black and has 4 wires into it (B/W, White, Dk Yello, Light Yellow) --------------------------------------------- Stop and take a good look at the factory wiring. Here is what you will see coming from the battery: A thick bundle coming from the rear of the bike goes into a 9 pin yellow connector with 7 wires going into it(Y/white, Blk/white, dk blue, Y, Black, Lt Blue, Lt Green). I'm going to call that connector the 'hub'. That connector goes to the left side signal, and high/low beam switch on the handle bars. Some wires from the left side handle bar controls come back into the hub, another set of wires coming from the handlebar switch is in a bundle going to the H4 connector and then to the lamp. You can see the split of the one of two thick bundles in the attached first photo below if you UNPLUG the yellow connector you completely disconnect the left side controls from the bike and the headlight. You can then take a multimeter and test the hot side of the now unplugged yellow hub (with the key on/off to verify its switched power). What you will find is this at the power side of the hub: Yellow/White: switched power, the power comes to this only when the key is on. This is where we will get the power to the Skene controller. Blk/White: On the DRZ all Blk/White is ground. We will use this as the ground to the Skene Controller Yellow : this is activated when you switch the light to high beam on the handle bar. You can see this on wiring diagrams here on thumpertalk reproduced here. Its a simple switch, when you push high beam it sends current down that yellow wire. This is the actual brains of the hi/low beam and what the Skene controller needs to switch the BD lamp to high beam. So this yellow is an output from hand switch and runs down the H4 connector wire to the H4 plug as the light yellow wire. We will plug this into the Skene controllers white high beam control wire. Other wires: necessary but not used by the Skene controller or the BD lamp. --------------------------------------------- Overall what we are going to do. 1) The skene dimmer has a very nice illustration of the wiring attached below. 2) We have a single lamp, so the Skene doc says to combine(splice) the striped violet/wht and striped orange/wht together in the case where you only have a single light (skene controllers are used for cars and such so it can be tailored to a bike). Also we have to use a ground from one of those wires. That ground and the spliced violet/wht, orange/wht wires will go to the two prong Skene plug that goes into the actual connector on the BD light. Locate the two prong plugs (2 of them to start) on the Skene controller wires that are compatible with the plug on the back of the BD light. We will splice the connectors together on the Skene side then plug a single plug into the BD, discarding one of the two Skene plugs that came with the controler. 3) We want to hook up the power and ground to the wires coming from the battery to the corresponding wires on the input side of the yellow hub. 4) The output of the switch at the drivers left handbar is the lighter yellow wire going into the H4 connecter so that has to be attached to the white control wire of the Skene ------------------------------------------- Splicing/connecting wires: Everyone has their own way of doing this, there are tons of youtube videos on the topic. I like the Nasa method. You have several wires you want to "tap into' where you strip a wire in the middle and tie a new wire into it, and you have a couple of wires where you just want to connect the ends together. I soldered all of my connections, let them cool, then used liquid tape to cover all of the open wire, then wrapped that in high quality electrical tape. For splicing into an existing wire, which you do not want to cut, I used the Irwin Vise Grip wire self adjusting splicing tool. You just lay the wire still connected on both ends into the tool and it will strip and area off the middle of the wire leaving the ends completely intact. ------------------------------------------- Detailed instructions: 1) When you do the work, leave the wires open until you test the light fully to make sure all is well. Obviously with all that exposed wire, make sure don't short any of them together. 2) turn the key off. 3) unplug the yellow hub connector. If you have a meter, you may want to switch the key on and off and verify the above info at the yellow hub connector, and also at the H4 connector, obviously leave the key off before you start cutting wire. 4) On the Skene, you will end up cutting all the wires to length, so you can start by cutting the bundles coming out of the Skene to an apropos length for your bike, obviously leave a little extra. 5) Splice the Skene Black wire into the Blk/White wire behind the hot side of yellow connector hub (the side coming from the battery). That's ground. Use the wire stripper to expose the blk/white wire coming from the battery and splice in the Skene ground wire. 6) The Skene comes with good instructions indicating that you can combine the solid Violet, Orange, and Red from the Skene controller all together so do so. Just cut and strip the ends of the violet,orange and red wire together. Splice those 3 to the wire with the fuse on it that comes with the Skene controller. Then connect that singe fused wire to the yellow/white 'hot wire' coming into the yellow connector hub. Use the wire stripper to expose the wire in the Yellow/white wire, again behind the hot side of the hub and splice it in. You should see red/violet/orange wires from controller merging into the red wire that goes through the fuse, and then the wire on the other side of the fuse spliced into the yellow/wht wire at the back of the yellow 'hub' connector. 7) Now you hook up the 'brains'. Clip off the H4 connector that used to go to the old headlight. Strip the end of the light yellow wire, and attach it to the Skene's white wire. 8) Working just with the Skene side now. Cut off both of the two prong connectors on the skene striped orange/white and violet/white lines. You will reuse one of the connectors so make sure you leave enough wire on the back of it to reuse. The connectors have a striped line and a ground line running into them. Ultimately these are what power and ground the BD light. Trim the wires to size. Strip the orange/white and violate/white and combine them. You should only use one of the black ground wires and it should go into the Skene ground wire (they have it looped together in the package I got, not shown in the Skene diagram). Now re-attache one of the adapters to the combined striped wire and to ground. 9) you can cap off the other 3 wires going to the H4 connector (Dk yellow, Black/wht, white). 10) plug the two prong Skene adaptor with the striped violet and striped orange wires, and the ground wire into the back of the bD light. See skene plug to BD light adapter attachment below. 10) at this point you should be able to test the light. turn on the key and make sure that with the key on and the hand switch on low bean that the light comes on, just like the factory original. Then switch to high beam and make sure it work. Attachment below of completed wiring at the controller should help. Zip everything up, making sure its water tight and yur done.
  22. So as I'm adding more and more auxiliary accessories to my Wr450f, I'm running out of room on the battery terminals to connect things. I've seen some "power distribution blocks" but they're all made for huge 0 gauge wire. Anybody have any ideas of what I could do? Or something like this, but for much smaller wire. Like 20 gauge.
  23. So as I'm adding more and more auxiliary accessories to my Wr450f, I'm running out of room on the battery terminals to connect things. I've seen some "power distribution blocks" but theyre all made for huge 0 gauge wire. Anybody have any ideas of what I could do? Or something like this, but for much smaller wire. Like 20 gauge.
  24. Hi all. I had a hell of a time trying to find a wiring diagram for my bike so I rewired it and here's the diagram if it might help somebody. It's a 1994 (ish) DR250 (possibly a jap import djebel) with kick start only and no battery. The loom I made has all lights and brakelights but no idiot lights or indicators. Just a simple stripped-back electrical system.
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