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Found 56 results

  1. Hi, I'm hoping someone can help? Have just put together a 1983 PE 175 and bike runs fine, lights are slow to come on and dim. Brake light blows when applied and horn pretty asthmatic too. If I disconnect one either light and the other goes nice bright. Other than I nailed it!! Have checked wiring against a diagram I found on the net and all the wires are where they should be. Checked the connectors on the light related wires and cleaned. Also ground the powder coating back on the earth point. Really haven't got a clue why it the way it is. Any help will be much appreciated, as I spend most nights doing the same thing over and over again which is a little underwhelming. Cheers waz
  2. Hi guys I have a bit of an issue that I am hoping you can help me (and more importantly, my 11 year old son) with. I can ride a dirt bike but am apparently useless when it comes to electronics! Here's the deal: My buddy gave me this Honda Z50R. He said it runs fine but needs a new air filter and some other minor parts. When we got it home, we realized that the engine is not the original - instead it's a bigger, Chinese make Lifan motor. Whoever installed it before did some makeshift wiring and this is my problem. My son may have disconnected a wire and there is no spark when trying to kick start it. We replace the spark plug, to no avail. One thing that is notable is that the kill switch is only connected through the black wire and the green wire was capped/tapped/disconnected. does this make sense? I also assume that the original had an ignition and possibly a headlight which may explain the yellow, white and/or light blue/red wires that are coming from the engine, disconnected. I know it is difficult to figure it out looking at two photos but if you have any idea please share it. Thanks a lot! Ogabott & Owen
  3. I live in the woods and don't always make it home before dark. My question Is, is it possible to wire and power a low voltage LED light to the stock stator without interfering with operation of the bike. If so, how? Any help is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!
  4. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 2016 350 EXC-F please? My (driving) rear light has stopped working (no voltage) but brake light does work. The horn has also stopped. I'm thinking it's probably the left hand switch but I've cleaned it and seems okay. Checked all the fuses - nothing blown. I have disconnected the indicators and license plate light. Any help appreciated. Thanks.
  5. I have a 2006 Suzuki DRZ400s. I am having an issue with the tail running lights not working. The brake light does work with both the foot and hand brake. The running lights will come on when i turn the key past run to the park setting. It does have an aftermarket led tail light. Any insight would be appreciated
  6. Hi all, Will from Melbourne in AUS and I am pleased to finally join ThumperTalk. I'm 9 months into a custom build transplanting an '81 XR500R into a '81 CB250RS and I'd like some advice. I'll start with my question which is a fairly simple one, and then follow up with an answer to some anticipated questions which might help understand what my issue is and what may be causing it. MY QUESTION: Does the CDI box or CDI black box igniter (shindengan) from the CB250 run the XR500? or put in a different way, does the xr500 motor need its original cdi box (which is a round metal box) compared to the rectangular rubber one off the 250, in order to fire? Thanks in advance, Will -break- MY PROBLEM: I can't get the XR500 started, even though it has just had a full-rebuild inc. bore/piston/valves/hydroblast, spark, good fuel, carb-kit, and it was built using torque wrench and some precision around building it which is why I'm surprised it didn't fire straight away. ANSWERS to potential Questions are; 1) What has been blended together between the two bikes? 2) Why on earth am I building a cbxr500rs...? 3) More depth around the issue please? 1) What has been blended together between the two bikes? First off, I used the cb250 wiring loom because it was complete and ready to run the lights which the xr doesn't have. The cb250 & xr500 motors share side covers, and some other parts. Because I want a lighting system and given the XR doesn't have an alternator or wiring for a lighting system, I used the alternator from the 250 which bolted straight into the 500 replacing its original magneto. The Alternator from the 250 is also a bit lighter so it may improve performance. I used the side cover and wiring from the 250 on the same Alternator side for 2 reasons: i) because it was in better condition and, ii) had the wiring plug to go straight into the loom from the 250 as well. A perfect match so it seemed. On the right side, given I had just replaced the pulse-generator wire from the 250 before it died, which cost $100 bucks, and the side cover was once again in better condition (and matched the 500), I used 250 right side cover and its pulse generator on the xr500 which also means it can plug straight into the loom as the xr500 motor had no plug on the end which saved me mucking around. Motor/Running Gear: cb frame & front Yend, xr motor, xr carb, xr rear-wheel to retain ratios, 2 into 1 exhaust from the xr500 which has been custom modified to be 2 into 1 into 4 under the seat! (for looks mostly, although careful attention to pipe diameter taken to retain back pressure and exhaust velocity). The XR500 motor has a new 10.5:1 piston, stage 1 bore to 89.25mm, valve-grind/resit/lap and hydroblast, all new other parts plug/gaskets/oil/seals/carbkit etc etc, xr500 sprocket, weld another row of bars above the frame to accomodate the carb and seat, custom fab on frame/seat etc to accommodate. May make an airbox for it if I think its required. Wiring: cb250 Loom (xr had none), lights etc from the cb250, Regulator Rectifier from the 250 (of course because it is designed for the power of the alternator), but I used the Coil from the 500 motor which is smaller, as the bigger one from 250's was stuffed, Fuses from the 250. *However, I used the CDI box off the 250 (not the 500) because it could plug into the loom, and this is where my question lies? 2) Why on earth am I building a cbxr500rs...? Well, I'm sentimentally attached to the cb250 which I built as a learning project 5 years ago, and I read the xr500 motor fits in the frame and saw someone in the UK which transplanted it I was pretty intrigued. When the cb250 finally died it was a perfect opportunity to hunt for a donor bike and put the xr500 motor in, and also a perfect opportunity to do any modifications/upgrades and servicing to the cb bike which I had originally built on the cheap and now happy to sink money in it. 3) More depth around the firing issue please? It has spark, but won't fire and start even though it seems it really really wants to. Given a fair amount of precision went into building the motor I'm surprised it didn't fire in the first couple of kicks and I've since spent a bit of time trying to get it started to no effect. I'm tempted to check ignition timing using one of those lights, although the one I have is not designed for bikes but cars instead and is a pain the ass to get rigged up!
  7. All right guys could use some help here. Last year I sold my motocross bike and decided I was going to convert my 2015 500 EXC into a more moto friendly setup. As I was doing so I started removing items I felt "unnecessary" (headlights, tail light, turn signals, etc) and put that stuff aside for when I wanted to put it back in street legal trim. Shortly after I had to move and put the bike in storage for a few months until I found a new place with a garage. So that brings us to now, I just pulled the bike out and decided to put all the dual sport stuff back on and make it street legal but can not get the turn signals to work. So here's the situation, Head light and tail/break light work, horn also works and everything is plugged in correctly but I suspect I might have gotten a bit trigger happy when removing the "unnecessary" components as I have found what appears to be a ground wire at the bottom of the bin I stored the removed parts in. I can't remember where this came from or why I cut the wire (see picture below) but I suspect this is the reason my turn signals aren't working. To add to my confusion, tucked behind the headlight I found a random female end of a bullet connector with nothing plugged into it and I'm not sure what would have gone there and if I removed that or it's just an extra accessory wire. The piece of wire I found that I cut has a female end on it doesn't plug in there :/ I also purchased the ktm service manual but the wiring diagram is so complicated I can't tell what is what. So if you own a 13- 15 500 exc or have knowledge in this area here's what I need to know... 1.What is the female bullet connector behind the headlight supposed to be used for? 2.Is the clipped black wire I found in my box the culprit for my faulty turn signals ? 3.If so, where does that wire go on the bike? pics below If you have any info that can help me figure this out please share and thanks for reading this, cheers!
  8. Good evening all! I need assistance in a big way. My 2008 250 XC is a great bike. I put a headlight on it but there is no plug for the tail light? is there any way to wire it into this system (see photos). What would be the best way to get the light working? Thanks kindly!!
  9. Hi guys! I have just bought my 1996 DR 350SE and I'm super happy about it! This will be my second moto after Aprilia RS 125 ­čÖé I'm preparing it for 'technical inspection' on Tuesday and I hope you could help me with several questions that I have: 1) The front light was disconnected and I had to sort out the wiring. Once connected, I noticed that even with the high beam off the indicator is slightly lit (see the attached picture). Shout it be like this? 2) When I was connecting the front light I noted two wires connected to nowhere. I traced them back to the clutch lever. Any ideas what they are for and should I fix it? 3) Do you use fully or semi synthetic engine oil? 4) I have to connect turn signals in order to have the motorcycle road legal, but I didn't see any mounts nor any loose wires. Where should I attach and connect the turn signals? Thanks guys in advance! ^^
  10. Looking for folks to do a read here and see if I messed anything up. Ideally someone who does professional installs of the BD/Skene. I'm continuing on with mods for a RTW starting in May. I really wanted the Baja Designs Squadron Pro, as I think I'll have at least some unplanned night travel, and that could happen in remote areas. That head mount stadium lighting looked pretty good. The BD-SP lights have to have a dimmer if you are planning on road travel internationally is my understanding. So I also got the Skene controller sold through Baja Designs. I am not covering the physical install of the light here using the rubber straps, instead this is just the electrical. My requirements were: 1) It must work with the factory high/low switch 2) it must come on when the bike powers one, just like the factory light does. 3) Ideally all wiring changes should be in the headlight areas 4) the wiring should be 'downstream' of the rest of the bike so that electricaly if I botched it or there was a short, only the lightening should be affected. 5) it should be clean. I chopped off all of the connectors on the skene controller and went to bare wire, so it all looks like OEM stuff. Obviously, do this at your own risk, and don't get pissed at me if it does not work. Start by removing the factory headlight. It unscrews on the side and unplugs via the H4 plug which is black and has 4 wires into it (B/W, White, Dk Yello, Light Yellow) --------------------------------------------- Stop and take a good look at the factory wiring. Here is what you will see coming from the battery: A thick bundle coming from the rear of the bike goes into a 9 pin yellow connector with 7 wires going into it(Y/white, Blk/white, dk blue, Y, Black, Lt Blue, Lt Green). I'm going to call that connector the 'hub'. That connector goes to the left side signal, and high/low beam switch on the handle bars. Some wires from the left side handle bar controls come back into the hub, another set of wires coming from the handlebar switch is in a bundle going to the H4 connector and then to the lamp. You can see the split of the one of two thick bundles in the attached first photo below if you UNPLUG the yellow connector you completely disconnect the left side controls from the bike and the headlight. You can then take a multimeter and test the hot side of the now unplugged yellow hub (with the key on/off to verify its switched power). What you will find is this at the power side of the hub: Yellow/White: switched power, the power comes to this only when the key is on. This is where we will get the power to the Skene controller. Blk/White: On the DRZ all Blk/White is ground. We will use this as the ground to the Skene Controller Yellow : this is activated when you switch the light to high beam on the handle bar. You can see this on wiring diagrams here on thumpertalk reproduced here. Its a simple switch, when you push high beam it sends current down that yellow wire. This is the actual brains of the hi/low beam and what the Skene controller needs to switch the BD lamp to high beam. So this yellow is an output from hand switch and runs down the H4 connector wire to the H4 plug as the light yellow wire. We will plug this into the Skene controllers white high beam control wire. Other wires: necessary but not used by the Skene controller or the BD lamp. --------------------------------------------- Overall what we are going to do. 1) The skene dimmer has a very nice illustration of the wiring attached below. 2) We have a single lamp, so the Skene doc says to combine(splice) the striped violet/wht and striped orange/wht together in the case where you only have a single light (skene controllers are used for cars and such so it can be tailored to a bike). Also we have to use a ground from one of those wires. That ground and the spliced violet/wht, orange/wht wires will go to the two prong Skene plug that goes into the actual connector on the BD light. Locate the two prong plugs (2 of them to start) on the Skene controller wires that are compatible with the plug on the back of the BD light. We will splice the connectors together on the Skene side then plug a single plug into the BD, discarding one of the two Skene plugs that came with the controler. 3) We want to hook up the power and ground to the wires coming from the battery to the corresponding wires on the input side of the yellow hub. 4) The output of the switch at the drivers left handbar is the lighter yellow wire going into the H4 connecter so that has to be attached to the white control wire of the Skene ------------------------------------------- Splicing/connecting wires: Everyone has their own way of doing this, there are tons of youtube videos on the topic. I like the Nasa method. You have several wires you want to "tap into' where you strip a wire in the middle and tie a new wire into it, and you have a couple of wires where you just want to connect the ends together. I soldered all of my connections, let them cool, then used liquid tape to cover all of the open wire, then wrapped that in high quality electrical tape. For splicing into an existing wire, which you do not want to cut, I used the Irwin Vise Grip wire self adjusting splicing tool. You just lay the wire still connected on both ends into the tool and it will strip and area off the middle of the wire leaving the ends completely intact. ------------------------------------------- Detailed instructions: 1) When you do the work, leave the wires open until you test the light fully to make sure all is well. Obviously with all that exposed wire, make sure don't short any of them together. 2) turn the key off. 3) unplug the yellow hub connector. If you have a meter, you may want to switch the key on and off and verify the above info at the yellow hub connector, and also at the H4 connector, obviously leave the key off before you start cutting wire. 4) On the Skene, you will end up cutting all the wires to length, so you can start by cutting the bundles coming out of the Skene to an apropos length for your bike, obviously leave a little extra. 5) Splice the Skene Black wire into the Blk/White wire behind the hot side of yellow connector hub (the side coming from the battery). That's ground. Use the wire stripper to expose the blk/white wire coming from the battery and splice in the Skene ground wire. 6) The Skene comes with good instructions indicating that you can combine the solid Violet, Orange, and Red from the Skene controller all together so do so. Just cut and strip the ends of the violet,orange and red wire together. Splice those 3 to the wire with the fuse on it that comes with the Skene controller. Then connect that singe fused wire to the yellow/white 'hot wire' coming into the yellow connector hub. Use the wire stripper to expose the wire in the Yellow/white wire, again behind the hot side of the hub and splice it in. You should see red/violet/orange wires from controller merging into the red wire that goes through the fuse, and then the wire on the other side of the fuse spliced into the yellow/wht wire at the back of the yellow 'hub' connector. 7) Now you hook up the 'brains'. Clip off the H4 connector that used to go to the old headlight. Strip the end of the light yellow wire, and attach it to the Skene's white wire. 8) Working just with the Skene side now. Cut off both of the two prong connectors on the skene striped orange/white and violet/white lines. You will reuse one of the connectors so make sure you leave enough wire on the back of it to reuse. The connectors have a striped line and a ground line running into them. Ultimately these are what power and ground the BD light. Trim the wires to size. Strip the orange/white and violate/white and combine them. You should only use one of the black ground wires and it should go into the Skene ground wire (they have it looped together in the package I got, not shown in the Skene diagram). Now re-attache one of the adapters to the combined striped wire and to ground. 9) you can cap off the other 3 wires going to the H4 connector (Dk yellow, Black/wht, white). 10) plug the two prong Skene adaptor with the striped violet and striped orange wires, and the ground wire into the back of the bD light. See skene plug to BD light adapter attachment below. 10) at this point you should be able to test the light. turn on the key and make sure that with the key on and the hand switch on low bean that the light comes on, just like the factory original. Then switch to high beam and make sure it work. Attachment below of completed wiring at the controller should help. Zip everything up, making sure its water tight and yur done.
  11. So as I'm adding more and more auxiliary accessories to my Wr450f, I'm running out of room on the battery terminals to connect things. I've seen some "power distribution blocks" but they're all made for huge 0 gauge wire. Anybody have any ideas of what I could do? Or something like this, but for much smaller wire. Like 20 gauge.
  12. Hi, Steve here. I have acquired a '99 Husaberg 501 and am trying to put it back in service after it has sat for a few years. I am almost done, I think?. But still have a couple small items that I would like to talk to someone about before I finish and fire it up. If anyone knows where I can find a "parts manual" online, please let me know. I have found these and used them for several other brands and found them very helpful, with their exploded views of the different parts assemblies. Especially when, as in my case, the bike was apart when I got it. Also I have installed a new ignition system and THINK it is all hooked up correctly, but would really like to have someone with more knowledge, or a similar bike, confirm a connection or two. Any help would be appreciated. I am finding all kinds of parts and info from England but very little here in the States, especially for an older model like this. Thanks, Steve
  13. I just recently got this bike and got it running, licensed, etc, and I was tinkering with it running in the garage a couple weeks ago when I noticed some smoke heat and sizzle down by the rectifier. One of the yellow wires was burn-your-finger hot. Upon further inspection I found that the battery positive cable was also loose. After determining the stator was good but the battery was junk as was the rectifier, I ordered a new battery, and a used rectifier from ebay. (I know I know, but money was tight). When they arrived I installed and checked everything, voltage at the battery was a steady 14.46 at idle. So I decided the used $20.00 rectifier gamble paid off, and I decided to drive it to work, 100 miles round-trip. On the way home from work it started running poorly. Lack of power, couldn't really get above 50 mph, and this is the current problem. While looking at a possible headlight upgrade a couple days ago I noticed that the low beam didnt work, and their was a short in the pigtail, and it had melted. In the photos you cans see that part of the bulb is still melted into the pigtail. So my question is; could this headlight short be the cause of my running problem?
  14. I recently bought the universal Tusk Enduro lighting kit for my 2009 Yz250f and the Polisport MMX headlight in hopes of street legalizing my bike, I ordered the kit and the headlight but shortly after found that to connect the compact control switch I need a pre existing headlight and the wiring from the headlight to connect it with, and then the battery that comes with the kit is not said to be powerful enough to power both the headlight and the tail light. Could some one let me know how I can possibly hook up the headlight separately or possibly a larger battery I could use to power both the headlight and taillight easily?
  15. Hi everyone, A few months ago I was working on installing a new headlight and fairing. I also changed the front blinkers to smaller ones which only used two wires, instead of the 3 factory wires. I zipped tied some of the new wires from the headlight to existing factory wires and had everything wired up correctly to the battery. Then I tried to start the bike to test the headlight, however, when I turned it to the 'ON' position, the instrument cluster did not light up and the bike does not start or crank at all. The fuel pump runs and the blinkers work, but the bike does not function otherwise. I know about checking the wiring harness/connector behind the radiator; I had checked that already and it seemed fine and in tact, however, I will check it again just to make sure. I also removed all zip ties so there's no pulling on factory wires, but nothing has changed. I inspected the wires leading into the instrument cluster and they all seem to be fine. I am not sure what is causing the issue, whether it was a wiring harness being pulled or a wire causing an issue from the blinkers or what. The battery has a full charge as well, so it wasn't dead. Any ideas from anyone or steps to take to diagnose this issue? Thanks!
  16. Hi all, new guy here with lots of questions I have a 2002 wr426 that is mostly street legal, it has headlight, tail light, brake light, and a mirror. I will be using my phone as a speedo for the time being until I get a Trail tech vapor. The last thing I need is a horn. I attempted to wire a spare horn to a R/C battery I had laying around but no dice. I don't know a whole lot about electronics which is why i'm here. I would like to have a 12V battery to make wiring in accessories easier, but I don't know what battery or how to tap into the stater to recharge said battery, even if I had to simply run it total loos and charge it every now and again. I believe the bike has UFO LED brake lights, so there is DC power????? Thanks
  17. Hi everyone, I'm new here. I recently bought a 2002 WR 250. It's my first big 2-stroke and I'm really excited to get it out into the wild. Before I can do that, I need to fix a few small issues tho. The previous owner didn't care much for silly legalities, like lights, a speedometer or mirrors. I, on the other hand, really enjoy not getting pulled over to be forcibly seperated from my hard earned money. Luckily, the original wiring loom and most base components like the regulator are still on the bike, although I'll have to make a few fixes here and there. I found out it makes good power, a quick hardwiring on the headlight worked perfectly. I ordered a new universal handlebar switch and will be wiring that in according to the wiring schematic I found in the manual. Hopefully, everything will work without having to completely redo the loom. Now for my question, I want to install a dashboard on my bike, with all the control lights etc. My bike has what seems to be a magnetic pulse counter for the speedo on the forks, there's no wires on it tho. It also has a speedomount, but no speedo. The dashboard wiring is all there (Not sure if it's all good tho). I'm thinking about ordering a cheap Chinese digital dashboard with magnetic pulse drive, and wire all that up to the original loom. (Like this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LCD-digital-dashboard-motocross-tachometer-gauge-speedometer-of-racing-motorcycle-replacement-Refit-sensor-C0024-Car-styling/32817409209.html or this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/WUPP-Motorcycle-Meter-LED-digita-Indicator-light-Tachometer-Odometer-Speedometer-Oil-Meter-Multifunction-With-night-vision/32953485118.html ) Why such a cheap one, you ask? Well, because I'm a man of simple needs. And also I'm a cheapskate and I don't like the idea of paying 150 euro's for a Trail Tech with all kinds of functions I won't use. I'm open for suggestions on a good cheap tacho / speedo dash if these are rubbish. Does anyone have experience wiring something like this up to a WR? Since I have a powersupply without a battery, will these things have issues with resetting or voltage spiking etc.? Can I add a small battery to fix that? There's only one wire from the stator to the rectifier. I'm not familiar with that system, but I can imagine it's a bit less stable than a 3 fase stator and rectifier and it might not be suitable for wiring in a battery. Or should I drop this idea completely and try to source an original dash? A 2nd question I have is about the brake light switch. My bike doesn't have one and I can't find where it's supposed to go. Can anyone tell me where it should be and maybe even give me a part number? That'd be awesome.
  18. I bought a tail light/brake light from Rocky Mountain atv for my 2009 TTR 230. I have everything wired together the way I was told to do it but when I turn on the power nothing happens. Maybe I have it wired wrong. 3 wires come out of the light. Red, yellow, and black. The black I used as the ground, The yellow I ran to the brake switch and then to the starter and the red I connected to just the brake switch. This is my first time trying this so it could be very wrong. Anyone know where each wire connects to or if I am missing something? Thanks
  19. Hi All, Got a 2019 KTM 350 EXC-F, had an issue where steering bound up and pulled wiring behind the headlight. Took it apart and I've got a connector just hanging, but for the life of me I can't figure out where it goes. Everything is working except the turn signals. Fuse is fine. The connector on the wired end is a white 2 cable. The two wires are Orange & Yellow/Blue. It plugs into a black connector with 2 bare metal leads out the back. Anyone know where this thing belongs? Thanks!
  20. Can someone please tell me where the hell the proper location for the starter solenoid ground wire and the starter solenoid relay ground wire is and please include pictures and not no damn wiring diagrams that requires a Ph.D in &%$#@!ing science to decipher
  21. So I'm just wondering how I would wire up a High/Low beam switch onto the Wr without using the whole tusk lighting kit. Any help would be appreciated.
  22. I recently have been wanting to put a led light bar on my yz125 for night riding. I've looked everywhere for wiring diagrams and can't seem to find anything that makes sense to me. I purchased a 45watt stator from electrexworld and I have installed it but I can't figure out how to hook my light bar to it. There are two yellow wires that come out of the plug and I don't know what to do with them. Can anyone help me or provide me with a wiring diagram? PLEASE!
  23. Installed a combined start/kill switch from an R6 to my 2015 Wr450f today. Makes the bars look much cleaner in my opinion. I didn't wire it the conventional way, which had 2 problems. The conventional way has the R6 kill switch attached to the Wr's kill switch wires. This makes the flip switch on the bars reversed. So on is off and off is on. Also, you still would need to press the ignition switch by the dashboard to start the bike, which I didn't like. Here's how I did it: So, I attached the R6 kill switch (both pink wires) to the red and brown wire coming out of the original ignition button on the Wr. Leaving the other yellow and brown wire attached will preserve your low fuel light. Next, cut off the Wr's original starter button, and attach the 2 black wires to the R6 starter switch (black and blue wires). Now it's done. Flipping the switch to the run position will prime the fuel pump, and pressing the start button will start it up as normal. It overall looks cleaner and puts all of the buttons in one place. Here's a quick demonstration.
  24. Hi all. I had a hell of a time trying to find a wiring diagram for my bike so I rewired it and here's the diagram if it might help somebody. It's a 1994 (ish) DR250 (possibly a jap import djebel) with kick start only and no battery. The loom I made has all lights and brakelights but no idiot lights or indicators. Just a simple stripped-back electrical system.
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