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Hi i'm wondering if anyone knows whether I can replace a 1984 XL200R stator with one from a 1985 XL250. Both look very similar but have different part numbers. thanks,

ok, first thread, so if i mess up or do something wrong, im also 15 so remember any advice helps, Ive been riding dirt bikes since i was 3, before i even could ride a scooter, and ive always loved riding (sometimes a little too much) but that had always been dirt limited, until the beginning of this year i traded my (moped, which was actually incredibly illegal) as it went close to 70 with all the mods i put on it, for a 79 xl250, it ran, sort of, the guy sprayed gas in the cylinder and showed me it run, and i believed him. When i had gotten it home, the problems began adding up, it wasnt getting spark, the spokes on the front were all really loose, and someone really ****** up the paint job on the tank ( over the original honda stickers i might add) but this wasnt too bad, i saved up worked around my neighborhood and with my money, i got a supertrapp megaphone exhaust pipe ( someone butchered the old one completely) a new carb and airbox (someone took the airbox off and put metal mesh on, not even pods, just a piece of steel mesh over the tube) and a new cdi. This is when i started to realize i had gotten ripped off, first of all, it wasnt even a 250 engine, nor the right year, and there are no id numbers on the engine i can find to determine what year or size it is, so at this point i had blown all my money on parts for a bike that had the wrong engine. I immediately raced to ebay looking for a motor, no such luck, cheapest motor is 350 and its in terrible shape, i look on craigslist, nothing, i look on craigslist again a few hours later, and BOOM 79 xl250 runs & rides no title 300 dollars, perfect dent and scratch free original tank, oem seat, and every light they came with, and only 300 miles on it, im guessing it was kept in a barn, so i talk to the guy and i ask if i payed him 50$ if he would deliver it, and if he had paypal. he doesnt respond, i text him again after school that day "sorry i dont deliver, i sold it a few hours ago" instantly im even more frustrated, as this was exactly what i needed, but i have found another thing now, my neighbor has a 83 xl500 motor that runs and was fully rebuilt, hasnt even been put in a bike since he blew a head gasket on it, i was wondering how hard it would be to put this motor into the xl, i have very little fabricating experience, but my neighbor is a mechanic, he kinda laughed about it when i mentioned it to him, so im wondering, would it really be that difficult, thanks - Landon

So, I'm new to this and dirt bikes in general. I did small engine repair in high school, so I'm not full on retarded in that respect. But I digress. My dad recently have me a 1980 Honda XL250s Dual sport bike. It's got the 6v system, and goofy 23" wheel. When I got it, it had sat for a couple years, but nonetheless, I had it running in no time. Then a month later, it was fine tuned with the correct filter, carb rebuild, etc. So it runs fine, no problems there. So now I'm onto electrical; blinkers, horn, things to make it road legal. So after I bought a brand new 6v battery, charged it, I was going through the lights. Headlight runs off stator, so that's fine, tail light runs off both, that's fine, turn signal switches are good, but lights stay solid. Horn switch doesn't work, but I haven't tested the horn itself. Most instrument lights work, but there may be an issue because I used LEDs for that, and when I hit the turn signal, the light comes on, but shuts off neutral light. Today I got all 4 signals to light up, after I grounded the rear lights. But now they don't come on with just the switch on. Only when the bike runs. And I'm only getting 3v at the battery when it's running. I feel like I just made it worse when I "fixed" the rear turn signals. And to make things worse, my 6v trickle charger doesn't work anymore.

Okay Honda Gurus, I need some input. I have an '85 xl250 project almost done, turning her into a scrambler. Painted, polished, new wiring, bolt-on go fast bits along with other bells and whistles. I'm in the process of re-jetting the carbs but the engine keeps blowing smoke after the rebuild and I cant for the life of me work out why. Ive run her a few times now so its beyond being just oil burn-off from the rebuild itself. During the build I took the engine completely apart, replace all the bearings, seals and gaskets. Had the cylinder shaved out .5mm and put in a new piston with new rings (end gaps are in spec). Ring placement is all by the wiseco recommendations. Cleaned out the head, lapped the valves (surface face in spec), valve stems are in specs and I replaced all the valve stem seals. I did not replace the valve guides. And, as i don't have the tools required, I cant measure them to see if they are my problem. I'm guessing it has to be the guides because everything else seems good. Can anyone out there tell me what I should be looking at here, would love some input. Cheers

Hi all... so been working on and off on this xl250 chop for a girl. I am on the latter stage, I hope. I converted it to a 12v/cdi electrexworld.co.uk because I couldnt get the 6v system to work consistently. I also got a new mikuni vm32 and I did the valves. With a new spark plug installed the thing will fire after 6-12 kicks and it runs, ok. Try to restart it and it acts like plug fouled. I am getting great spark and I have tested with timing advances/retarded, seems to start through out the range hover I feel like it starts best advanced (and thats a guess because I didnt get any instructions with the kit I am turning clockwise on the stator unit for advance?) Basically feels rich. anyways looking for some help with the mikuni vm32, I understand I might be on the larger side, been told vm30 would have been better but I need to make this work. Here is what is in the carb now: 185 Main, 35 Pilot, 6DH7 Jet Needle, 2.0 Air Jet, 159 P-5 Needle Jet. Do I drop the Main and the pilot? 175/27.5? Any help would be awesome. Also D8EA or D7EA for spark plug?

So.... Spring project, I got a 1972 Honda xl250 with all the bells and whistles (in a box) with a 2003 Honda CRF 230f motor. I'm about to tackle the wiring and I just want to prep myself with some help and ideas before doing so. so here's the deal, I have the main wiring harness for the crf230f motor and I'm going to have to make the space to run a 12v battery. Any tips or ideas on how to run a new circuit to include all the lights horns etc that came with the og 72 xl250 ?? I also have the og wiring harness but I'm not using it to run the new motor.

New here. Going through my dad’s bike that’s been in the shed since 1997. Front break lever is broken and the replacement part I got doesn’t quite fit. The bold that holds the brake is too big for the new lever. There is a brass ring that is too narrow for the bolt to go through. Do I punch out the brass? Drill it out so the bolt will go through? Order something different?

1973 Honda XL250 Hi hoping someone out there could share some knowledge with me as I am pretty frustrated. Been working on this project for way too long I want to finished but I am hung up on some poor running and I cant figure it out. Motor wise I have done the top end and valve job, I have good compression. I replaced ignition with a 12v CDI unit from Electrex http://www.vinduronz.com/uploads/1/6/6/4/16643536/stk-205.pdf this provided me much strong spark and no more points no more old style reg/rec Keihin Carb is stock I cleaned and did one of those keyster rebuild kits When bike is cold it takes 10-20 kicks to fire, seems like it takes time for gas to make it thru carb. Been playing with a couple throttle twists during start up seems to help get it going. Once it fires it runs and idles and revs. If I try to use choke idle drops and it wants to die. Spark plug looks sooty/blackish but not super bad to my eyes rich. Take the bike out for a ride, in gear roll on throttle and it completely falls on its face bogs real bad not ride able at all. Put it in neutral and it revs up fine. I have tried to see if I have an airleak using carb cleaner there is only the intake manifold and couldnt find anything. I didnt change jets feel like its more than just a couple jets being off, feels like something big thats off and I am totally missing it. Any help appreciated.

So I am rebuilding my 1984 xr200r dirt bike, but it has an xl185 engine on it, which i have a 1984 xr200r engine which needs some work done, like new cam chain. I found out that the xr250 RFVC and xr200 RFVC in 1984 shared the same frame and I am putting the 250 engine in the bike however it is not running and I would rather not spend too much on parts, I found a guy selling a bunch of parts from an xl250 and I was wondering if I could use parts from that for the xr250 engine? Is there a big difference between the two? the xl and xr engines are both rfvc

Howdy vintage riders!! It's getting warmer here in Michigan and time to ride is right around the corner!! So... 1. I have a completely mint 1974 XL350 exhaust system. The bike I have had an aftermarket pipe and Supertrap installed from day one and I still have the original. Let me know if there is any interest. 2. Looking for parts for a 1973 XL250 restoration - please let me know what you might have! 3. Anyone have one of those screw-in yellow reflectors for a 1980 XL500s?? Not sure how it unscrewed itself and fell, but it did!?!?!?! 4. Anybody have any cool aftermarket stuff for XLs? (Plastic tanks, rear shocks, air cleaner setups, K&N air filters, other stuff??) And now a request for your wisdom and experience!!! 1. Rear brakes. The rear brakes on my XL350 leave quite a bit to be desired. No matter how much adjustment it seems like I have to push the pedal WAY down to get them to work. I have brand new shoes, and have checked that when the cable is pulled, the arm swivels and the shoes are pushed outward. What do you recommend?? a. Who makes the best brake shoes for Hondas? b. Are there any retrofit possibilities - i.e. upgrading the rear brakes to XR or CR brakes? c. Does anyone "turn" the brake drum inside rims? Any wisdom you might have would be appreciated!!! Thanks!!

First post here, but this forum has been great for my 1972 XL250 rebuild. This question has been asked a few times, but I can't find a good answer. I'm changing out the old Keihin Carb for a Mikuni VM 32mm. It comes stock with the following settings: Main: 200, Pilot: 35, Needle: Q-6, Air: 2, Slide: 3rd position Does anyone have any recommendations for rejetting this carb for this bike at 4000-6000' Colorado? I've messed with the stock carb so much I'm ready to just have this sweet old bike running more reliably Thanks for any tips