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Found 31 results

  1. Sunday ride through some thick fog. Shot on my gopro hero 9
  2. Hey everobody! after years, first time ever i have registered to a forum and this is my first post obviously, so forgive me if i write something dumb)) so i got me a brp, my dream bike for the past 10years, ever since i owned my first dirtbike, a suzuki DR600 (1985). once i got the bike which was in supermoto setup, gearing was 16/42, HRC cam (what the owner said, didnt get to check it yet), headers are fmf, regular no powerbomb and K&N air filter, aftermarket exhaust muffler (dont know the brand, probably GRP Ovale), stock crab, 45.000km on the engine. seriously i was expected the bike to be killer fast, so i be scared to pull the gas, and pulling up wheelies in 3rd gear NO clutch. well this is what i EXPECTED. maybe just i have imagined it all from reading other posts. riding the bike at first, well it was fast, but not that crazy horse i wanted. so i shortened the gearing (the bike couldnt even hit the rev limiter in 5th around 110mph/175kph, and i have no need to that fast) to 16/46 first and 15/46 now, which was getting the bike to wheelie in 2nd, and almost in 3rd, no clutch that is. the riding experience was very cool, getting much closer to what i wanted. SO, now coming to the reason of this thread. as in terms of carb, i am no expert but a general feeling was that it was ok. not great, not bad but ok. bike would start 2nd kick if cold/overnight, then 1st kick through the day. i ride everyday (70-120km) as its the only means of transportation. on the bottom end it would be very responsive, while mid to top end some hesitation but just a little. one thing that was not to my liking was once the bike is hot, (and where i am riding now its 30C/90F on average in the city), at traffic lights the idle would start climbing up sometimes, and had hard time coming down, i had to put first gear in and slowly release the clutch to make it come down, put in neutral and hope for the beat. otherwise i just wait for the green while playing with clutch and brakes. so after some thought i decided to inspect the carb, take it apart and clean it. I repeat, i am no expert in carbs but consider myself well prepared mechanically. I ordered a carb repair kit (moose), got the workshop manual, and found a video on youtube of the whole process, a to z. also i rodere a new boot from carb to head, as i thought the increasing revs on idle may be due to an air leak. so i took everything apart, taking down note of pretty much everything (so i think), like screw turn etc. the carb was very dirty so i also left it overnight to get all those incrustations off. what i replaced is -main gaskets - 3 top, bottom, and bottom nut. -small gasket in the air cut off valve -fuel screw, ie oring, washer spring then fuel screw -floater pin or screw, dont know how it is called now coming to the jets and needle, and this is where i messed up, i believe, first of all i didnt write down which ones. -main jet left the same one, that is a 175, just cleaned it, since the one i got in the kit was 125 (i think the whole kit might have been for us models). - pilot jet if i m not mistaken was a 68S, and i put a new 68S,BUT i might be wrong and its a plain 68 no S - needle replaced ann out the clip in same position, 2nd from the needle point, or 3rd from the bottom, flat. but i am pretty sure one was F and the other was E. like 53E and 53F. didnt write that down. one more thing i did is to take off the butterfly valve on the choke mechanism, smiley face, so now it has an opened mouth. at the end i was also in a rush to put everything back that i forgot to check the floater level. putting everything back i was really scared that the bike wont work anymore. but after playing a little with the fuel screw and idle i was able to start the bike. as in terms of performance bottom end was slightly better when engine wasnt too hot, top end had slightly more lag. but when heating up it just started going crazy, idle speed would go waaay up, no engine breaking, and what i noticed since the beginning is popping on release, which was not there before i layed hands on the carb. i increased the idle speed and the popping diminished but the idle at stops and traffic lights got worse. when i got home i did the whole fuel screw procedure following the manual and some info i found on xr650r.co.uk so it got better or so i thought. today it took me about 6 kicks to start the bike but it kept dying, so pull the air => almost no effect, raise idle, and there you go. once heated up, had to diminish idle, this whole procedure was never necessary before. now after first daily use i need 2/3 kicks to start the bike as opposed to 1 kick before taking the carb apart. Now i decided to dedicate more time to it and will be taking apart the carb again next week since i will have time off and no need to use the bike, so to do a proper job. i ordered -new cut off valve -moose jets kit stage 2 what i plan on doing is recheck needle and jets installed now with installed initially when bike was easy to start, change cut off valve, floater level. as i will get my hand on the carb, will post pics and updates. meanwhile i am getting an akrapovic exhaust this weekend so i guess will be experimenting with main jets as well, since a 175 is installed and that is stock. maybe increase? any suggestions that you could give me would be very appreciated. and any other insight on this beautiful bike. PS. i wanted to get better power output form this bike as it doesnt feel anywhere close to 60 bhp (even though hrc cam, and exhaust should bee even more!) in comparison to my dr600 which was topend rebuilt and was around 45 bhp. feels slightly more powerful. maybe i should do topend? sorry for such a long post but its my first and had a lot to get out
  3. Good to be back on TT after many years. Looking to seriously get back into off road enduro and dual sport riding this year. Looking to find the right bike for my riding style and goals. I'm taking the advice from the top post so here's a breakdown of the questions: 1. What is your skill Level (be honest)? Intermediate to Advanced (depending on terrain) 2. What's your height & weight? 5'11" 175lbs 3. What year, make, & model of motorcycle are you coming from? 2003 Suzuki DRZ400S & 2008 Honda CRF450R And, what do you want the new bike to do better? Electric start, a good clutch, road legal, fairly low maintenance, similar power to the 450R. 4. What's your ballpark budget? $2500-$4000 5. What types of terrain will you be riding? Dirt, woods, mud, small jumps, pavement 6. Will you be racing or just play riding? Mostly play but I'd like to enter some hare scramble & enduro races later this summer once I'm used to the new bike. My current choice: 2006-2009 Honda CRF450X w/ street title Reasoning: Obviously, I'd love a new CRF450L, KTM or Husqvarna but I can't afford them. The CRF450X seems to be the best choice for what I'm looking for because it's been out for 15+ years so prices are reasonable, there's good aftermarket support, I love the engine, and if I get one out of PA, many are already have motorcycle titles so I would be able to register it for the street in New York. Also, I feel I could handle any of the maintenance issues I've read about with them. My other contenders are the XR650R, a heavily modded DRZ400S or an older KTM. What are some thoughts?
  4. I have a Honda xr650r that i bought. I converted it to street and it was running perfectly for 3 months. Fuel started pouring out of overflow one day but it would still run fine. It was intermittent and when it was pouring out of overflow, it would drain the tank if stopped, but if I was riding it wouldn't leak so it was just at stoplights and when starting it. Also, she had always started first or second kick, no choke needed since I'm in hot Texas. Other times, I would open the petcock to start bike expecting it to leak but it wouldn't, next day it would overflow.. you get the idea. But other than that, it ran perfectly. I rode fine for a few more weeks and then I rebuilt the carb using the same settings. 68S pilot, 175 main, B53 comp needle. I noticed several of the screws were stripped, gaskets were bad.. so I got on partzilla and ordered all new internals for the carb. But all the parts were the same OEM parts that i was replacing. I also replaced the entire petcock assembly and fuel filter (also OEM). However, now it will not start at all. Not even a whimper. It is getting a spark, compression is good. Have tried for 2 weeks. Fuel is also still pouring out of the overflow which is what prompted me to rebuild it in the first place. The float height is what is should be but even when I adjust it to where it should be shut off, it will still pour. I havent changed the tang on the new OEM but Ive been experimenting using the old float setting different heights and it has fuel poring out when set at 25mm and when I go the opposite way to 8mm, so it doesnt make sense. The needle and needle jet are not jammed with trash as I replaced those parts as well and have verified everything is clean. I wish I would have gotten a new 2019 XSR900 but Ive already spent so much money converting this to sumo and upgrading suspension and rebuilding other areas of the bike. Im about to just sell it and cry because I feel utterly defeated. pics to show example of my work. Also tried attaching them to this post https://imgur.com/a/S2PFlV9 Im pretty meticulous and exacting which is why Ive never had anything like this happen. Any Ideas?
  5. Ok guys, I have an XR650R with a leaky petcock. Unfortunately it appears to be leaking from between the petcock and tank, as well as from behind the on/off switch. Below is my order from partzilla. Also this website gives you a good look at installing 2 of the 3 orings. http://www.xr650r.co.uk/service/petcock/petcock.shtml
  6. First off, here’s my background, because it will give some context: Location: Northern Arizona Weight: 160lbs Height: 6’1” Riding Experience: 4 years on street bikes until this past Saturday where I test rode my coworkers upgraded 2001 XR650R and an old 100 that had a bore kit and some other upgrades. We rode out in the woods and did a small hill climb with no problem. I currently own a Suzuki 2004 GS500f So just to preface this, I know the XR650R is a beast and probably not a “good” starter bike, but I think I’m getting it for a really good deal and it would be a great bike to grow into. It would be a project bike for me and would eventually take it on adventure backpacking trips. He’s quoting me for $2550 for the XR650R with the following upgrades: -Uncorked engine -Oversized brakes -Aftermarket suspension (it’s quite stiff, it would need to be changed to fit my body type) -Upper triple clamp with stabilizer mounts (I’ll probably buy a Scott stabilizer to install as my first upgrade if I buy the bike) -Pro taper bars (1-1/8” taper) -Heavy duty hand guards -Aluminum skid plate -4 gallon desert tank with foam insert -Aftermarket seat (some more padding) -Custom headlight -Oversized foot pegs -Brake light (I’ll want this to get to it be street legal, plan on commuting to work with this a lot) -New front steering stem bearings -and more... I noticed when riding it that when turning the front fork it would sort of “catch” when crossing over the middle. He’s changing out the front bearings and I’m going to test ride it again this weekend. So here are my qualms and questions… If I go back this weekend and test ride it with the new bearings and it still has the catch, would a stabilizer almost certainly do the trick in smoothing it out? Am I really stupid for thinking this is a good deal? Am I really stupid for still wanting this beast (even if it is a good deal) as my first bike? Any suggestions is appreciated, thanks!
  7. Recently acquired an xr650r that was made into a super moto / dualsport and I’m noticing that the lights dim a lot at low rpms, nice and bright when it’s not idling. Is that normal? Once I was riding around trails at night in lower gears and it started to get very dim, I hopped back on the highway and it didn’t get brighter unless it was at like 7krpm. Turned it off and fired it back up and it was fine. Not sure what that means but it is concerning. Haven’t had that happen again tho, yet. So I was skeptical of this guy telling me it had a high output stator. I checked it tonight and it looks to be aftermarket, just have no idea what it is, and neither does the previous owner....(questionable) i feel like the bike only wants to idle at like 1700, any lower and the lights will get very dim, and sometimes the tachometer resets without the bike stalling cause the power supply gets so low when it’s idling at 1400. So so does anyone know what stator this is? I’m thinking electrosport?
  8. Hey guys, so the standard xr 650r headlight is garbage, it barely shines at all and ill be doing some night street riding, so whats the best option for a headlight and headlight plastics out there on the market, that still looks good. Also, any other good upgrades for an xr650r being set up for dual sport riding would be awesome 🙂 thanks ! also can someone tell me if the trailtech 8" race light is road legal (has high low beam or can be added) cheers
  9. Hi everyone,i have a 07 Crf450r 41mm carb and it came with a Pilot jet- #42 ,Pilot air- #100 ,Main jet- #178 ,Accelerator Pump Leak Jet- #50 and Needle - NJYR with clip in the #3 slot and I tried it on my xr650r. The bike fired up in one and i set the idle .Now when i rev the bike it bogs down bottom and then revs out fast. Can anyone give me a starting point on getting it tuned right?.My bike is uncorked ,stage1 hotcam with a 3 x 3 inch air box mod and a full big gun exhaust,the type that runs behind the radiators,and I ride from sea level to 500 ft and temperature is mainly about 23-27 degrees celcius here in Barbados .The oem carb works good but i want to experience the feel from a pumper after hearing of other members saying how great it is and the riding a crf450r. Can someone please chime in? Below pic is the set up of the AP linkage ,do i need to do any oring mods here?.Any and all input is welcomed and thanks in advance for your help
  10. I'm COMPLETELY confused! I bought new guides and valves for my 650r. Knocked in the guides and reamed them with Honda's reamer, 07984-ZE20001, as pr shop manual. What I then find is that the exhaust valves can enter the guide tightly, but the intake cannot. I checked the numbers, and it seems to me that the new valves (14711-MBN-670 and 14721-MBN-670) are larger than they should be, but are not called OS (over-size) Here are my measurements and the standard measurements from the shop manual The reamer is 6.6, so my question is: why are the valves larger than the guide ID / reamer??? ANY help on this would be deeply appreciated! Cheers!
  11. Can anyone tell me if a Showa rear shock off an XR650R would definitely fit an XR650L (mine is a 2008)? Thanks!
  12. I am looking for a more comfortable seat for my BRP. I spend one 5 hours a week on it and the stock foam is not cutting it, and I am looking at doing some long adventure rides. most important of all it has to look good! Can anyone recommend a better seat?
  13. hey guys, so lately i’ve been thinking and i think i’d like to try and get my hands on a dual sport that i could bring onto the streets. i’m looking for the early-mid 80’s era as i love the look of them. i don’t know much about these, and all i’ve really looked at were the honda xl’s & xr’s. Which do you think would be a decent bike i could get to restore? i have also been looking at the drz’s as well. but i’d like to know what’s the pro’s and con’s of the different dual sport type bikes and which you’d prefer? & also, all i have to rip now is a 250 2t on dirt.. and i know for examples the xr’s go up to 650 but haven’t been able to find anywhere, mostly 250’s and 300’s. Have any you guys ridden these? just seems like small displacement for the roads? you guys ever wish they had more power? thanks for any input!
  14. What's up fellas, So I have a 2003 BRP, from what I can tell, the resale value of the bike is anywhere between $2,500-3,500. The bike is in good condition - runs well, been taken care of in terms of maintenance, no leaks.. etc. It is not set up for street use and is mostly stock aside from Big Gun exhaust and having the "uncorked" mod, which allows for greater air intake and performance. I'm looking for your guys' suggestions and opinions in terms of additional modification to the bike that would allow for the greatest resale value (i.e. what will buyers want to see). Thanks in advance, I appreciate the advice.
  15. Hey guys, I put a Mikuni TM40 on my XR600R and really like it, but I always wondered if the FCR might be better. I ran across this EBay listing for a new FCR style carburetor. It doesn't show as a Keihin brand. Anybody buy one of these yet? Its a good price but I won't buy if the quality isn't there. I bought another XR and thought I would try an FCR on the new bike so I have one of each. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CRF-450-R-CRF450R-Carburetor-Carb-2002-2008-NEW/122835304977?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3Dd8d46407b09b4518913684b5910695aa%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D253192404113&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507 Any input?
  16. Fellow big bore brothers, I have uncorked my XR650L with Dave's Carb Mod, popped the top snorkel on my air box, Free Flow filter, and finally wore out my stock Bridgestone TW knobby trash tires and put on Mitas E07 front and rears. I am now searching for an exhaust kit that compliments the bike aesthetically, gives it a good bark at idle and highway speeds, and still delivers good power. I have been considering XR's Only header and slip-on but haven't heard to seen too many reviews for it... but like the price I have also considered FMF since I was never disappointed on my 2 strokes or my previous CRF450X... My ears and mind are open to suggestions... what is everyone using? I am budget conscience but more so concerned of getting a kit that may need re-jetting due to the existing Dave's Mod. Thanks -Risty
  17. Hey there, TT. What's good... you been partying? Hope so. ANYHOW; Ripping my new (to me) 00' XR-R on some fire roads last night up in the Lost Coast and WHAM! There went the chain! It took the OEM case saver and 1/2-3/4 of each mounting bolt with it... which was concerning, but not as concerning as if I had seen the oil draining from a nice new 'modded' hole in the case cover. Yay! (to cheaper repair) No! (to repairs at all) Few concerns I have about going through the repair process which seems fairly well documented: 1) Since I nearly sheared the bolts on the sides of the case, I presume that my bike will need the XR's Only case saver. Fortunately, it uses the rear engine mounting bolt to hold on, but still uses the two OEM mounts as well. The top OEM hole seems deep enough to drill easily... but: How far can I drill the LOWER one to re-thread w/out punching my feared 'hole in the case'? 2) I removed my countershaft sprocket as I sat there waiting for a my AAA flatbed, and noticed that about 1/2 of the countershaft sprocket splines were gone! Further, the retaining ring (w/ the two 10mm head bolts) was worn significantly as well, allowing the countershaft sprocket to do some proper movement... Any suggestions on how to fix THAT? (I had this problem (#2) on an XR-L, and replaced with a PBI XR-R sprocket to limit wear, since the splines were longer... this seems a bit worse. I ordered, along with the chain, a Ironman front 15T sprocket to replace my worn PBI... but I dk about 'restoration' of the splines on the countershaft itself.) Any ideas? / Pictures for the interested... as soon as I find a website that isn't Photobucket!
  18. I'm looking to convert my xr650r to full DC power and was wondering if anyone here was using a terminal bus bar ? something like this one : https://www.amazon.com/DSC-TB01-Terminal-Block-Splits-Input/dp/B005K49NMW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510464051&sr=8-2&keywords=bus+bar&dpID=310kVzto9uL&preST=_QL70_&dpSrc=srch I'm looking to make the wiring a bit more simplified if possible, and have a single organized place like this that everything can connect to and run to battery would be incredibly useful. Thoughts ? Suggestions ?
  19. Hey Guys and gals, I am having an issue setting up my lights and I am not sure what I'm missing. I have a 2001 Honda XR650R that was "made" street legal by the previous owner. I'm trying to add in front blinkers and when I hook up my front blinkers all the lights dim and the front don't flash or even power up. I am lost as to what I am doing wrong or if the battery pack I'm using does not produce enough amps to run the system. I will link the parts I'm using below and a diagram of how I'm attempting to wire it. Any Ideas or help would be much appreciated. Not sure on the Amp draw or limit on the items been digging just no luck as to what is being used or produced as of yet (blew my amp fuse in my meter being a dummy). http://a.co/7MFeePA Hand Switch http://a.co/9F5rcRT The Front Blinkers (shown to use 5.4w on 12v so I think about .5A) http://a.co/gQ1OTf7 Brake and blinker combo (25w so about 2.1A) http://a.co/2JRKUTj Horn (shown to use 1.5A) http://a.co/1i6wwGk Battery it produces 12v 15A output http://a.co/8Z1Z8iv How I get the power off battery cut in half and bullet crimped http://a.co/aXkrtgB Flasher relay (max 42W adjustable to .02A to 12A) http://a.co/8Z07FbJ Other flasher relay thinking other was the issue not the case Thanks, J
  20. I'm trying to find an XR650R that had already been tagged and titled. Any recommendations on where to look? I'm not having any luck so far. I live in GA and I'm definitely willing to travel pretty much anywhere east of the Mississippi (maybe farther if I have to). Any help is appreciated.
  21. Hi The sponge in the float bowl has disintegrated. Can I run the carb without it. ? If so would I need to re adjust float height
  22. Hi all, Any idea where i can get an upper chain slider for XR650R (Not the roller, the little rubber slider) mine has completely rotted away. Have ordered lower chain slider of ebay but cant find upper one for life of me.
  23. Hi, im new to this forum. I recently got me an NX650(euro), but i didnt check the bike properly before buying it. Found some faults driving it home. Welded sprocket and noisy 4th gear. 23K miles stock. Might be wrong forum, but its the same engine as xr650r if im not mistaken? This is my first rebuild, and it went somewhat bad. A couple of rounded allen bolts(rubber intake carb), bolt to head broke and rounded a allen when splitting the cases. Damages found so far - timing chain stretched, 4th gear broke, some scratches in cylinder, some scratches in oil pump, 4th gear broke. A lot of carbon build up in combustion chamber, guess oil have been burning. Cam and journal seems good. Rockers also seem good, hard to tell. Many pics, more upon request. Now that its teared down, i need some help with purchase list. I dont know what is smart to change while im rebuilding it. Im building bike for reliability - mainly commuting. Power is always welcome, but rather reliability. List; Poured some engine cleaner in combustion chamber and had it upside down over night. Valves didnt leak - guess they are OK? No need for re-seat? Is it necessary to change timing tensioner? Anymore seals or bearings i should change while im at it? Im guessing 4th gear breakdown is the reason for scratches in cylinder and oil pump. Found some metal parts. Why the exhaust valves have been running hot(white) is oil consumption due to scratches in cylinder? Teardown was "fun", looking forward to rebuild it and paint it. Ive done alot of research online, but feedback before rebuild is MUCH APPRECIATED.
  24. FYI - in case anyone is looking for a nice one. Ad says 155 original miles. Plated in FL. $5800 seems a bit high, but there probably aren't many like this around. https://orlando.craigslist.org/mcy/d/xr650r-honda-water-cooled-155/6263581029.html
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