Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'yamaha'.
-
Hi, brand new to this forum so excuse me if this is in the wrong section! We got a 2002/03 (unsure), yz85 a couple of months ago. Very few issues at the start, ran perfect. In the past two months the bike has been very temperamental. It was idling very high when it started but alot of the time it wouldnt even start. Was making very throaty, burpy kind of noises, especially with a bit of a throttle twise to try and get it going. So, after pulling the carb to bits, cleaning all of the jets, itd run once well, then do the same thing again. We repeated this process 4/5 times to date. We eventually routed the cause to a frayed intake boot causing a vacuum leak. So we replaced it. Good as new. For the first run.. kicked like a horse the first time we ran it after replacing the boot. Then today, she's back to her old self. Started fine earlier, and then just went throaty and started to die. Sounded like the plug wasn't firing. So took it out, checked. Nothing, check if there was power to the coil pack, got a spark, so cleaned the plug with a wire brush (b10eg, btw) Away she goes again, for 2 minutes, and dies. Back to making throaty sounds again. The plug is working as of now. The bike would start if the throttle was wide open but be very very throaty, burpy and rough. Carb was cleaned earlier before this. (Today) That's all the detail I can give, any questions feel free to ask me. I've given up on it as I'm all out of ideas. There was a bit of black oily stuff leaking out of the exhaust as well, only noticed as I was finishing up. Any help, ideas, suggestions are welcomed. I have a video of it but can't upload here. Thanks in advance
-
2009 YZF250 - Ex Dixon bike with the wet sump conversion. Stuck a bunch of quality hours on this thing the other weekend doing some enduro practice. Didn't skip a beat! Changed out the oil and filter, putoline - 850ml with filter change as recommended by someone off the dixon facebook page. Fresh airfilter. Didn't start it for a few days after the oil change as was late at night after service, warmed it up at trackside this weekend with no issues to get the oil flowing, checked pressure by removing the bolt, all fine... Killed it. Came back to the bike about 15 mins later started fine, rode literally about 100m (wasn't hanging around but not going mad) and she just died under load, instant death. I believe it locked up, hard to recall. Didn't feel right either-way, i've had bikes flame out on me (CRF450) and this was a bit different. Bike started OK afterwards, I sat there with it on idle for about 10 seconds, all good, gave it some throttle and it just came to an abrupt stop again, almost made a squeak when it stopped. Rolled back to pits, checked oil filter, was fully soaked, everything looked fine, rads weren't exactly hot but i'd only been riding for a short period, head was pretty hot to touch, crank didn't seem that hot - but then again i've never touched an engine after 4 minutes of running so I've no idea what sort of temp it should be haha. Bike started again fine after little inspection, idled OK. Sounded sweet, no rattles or bangs. Started to give it some throttle, rolling the revs and it just came to a screeching stop again. Kicked it in anger and it hasn't started again since. Gave it a little strip down last night, took valve cover off, all looks normal, valves are in spec still, took the carb off and had a look down the inlet, small little bits of something foreign in there and the tiniest of metal slivers sitting ontop of one of the valves. (By this point i'd already dropped oil and filter for inspection, nothing that looked out of place) Now the bike kicks over OK. Its never had the strongest of compression on kick, but its been a while since i've had a 250F. it does 'get hard' at certain points but its pretty easy to kick through these hard points normally just body weight will do it. Can any of you advise on moving forwards, i'm going to remove head and cylinder for inspection but i've never dug this deep into an engine before haha! Any thoughts or tips on things to look out for? Bike has a spark I should add, not that this really felt like a lack of ignition. -
Fun solo ride before the recent Northern Cali storm, lots of fun good conditions
-
I stripped the shift shaft on my 2001 yz125 2-stroke. I was wondering what parts I'd need to replace it, because when i look on rockymountain it showed the parts on everything that could be replaced. I was wondering if I could just buy the shift shaft assy, spacer, spring torsion, and oil seal. On the website that'd be 1,4,3,7. Here's where I'm seeing all this stuff https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/2. Thank you in advance for any replies.
-
Ok so we have a thread in Northwest that is for helmet cam vids, well lots of mine are shot with my mobile, so sort of rules that out, also we have Short Attention Span Theatre, but those are 45 seconds max. Here in the Pics and Vid section there is a thread on Technical Trails, but the Secret Training Ground has lots of technical bits, these climbs are semi-technical. The more we ride them, the easier they get. There are also lots of short, technical spots generally steep with roots but those are all short sections. I will post up vids from the Secret Training Ground. If you have some Secret location vids, post em up, but it has to be a secret location. No telling where you're at. Backstory here... we keep making little climbs that are more difficult than the last one. First Hill, No Way, Rock Face, then OhEmEffGee, each time we're thinking man, not sure we'll get up it, then after wearing it down a bit we start to make it up on a regular basis. Cheers. Latest- hot off the press from the last 3-4 weeks. Rock Face Revisited bit is from last weekend. Super muddy slick (not as slick as wet clay though)... https://youtu.be/ZldYXmPAy9E
-
Hey guys I was wondering what bike I should get I havnt rode since I was in 7th grade but I had a kx 85 so I was experienced with riding I could pin the bike on tracks so I'm not completely new to riding now I'm 6,2 190 I was contemplating what bike to get, should I go with a yz 125 or should I go with a yzf450, I would never sell the 450 prob have it forever thank you tell me your opinions plz!!
-
So I bought a WR400F cause Im a yamaha fanboy and I wanted something different from a DRZ like all my mates have. Everything seems fine except for the speedo not working (If anyone knows a digital one I can get please let me know), Until I accelerate...its only when I accelerate, its been getting worse I think. When ever I take it from half throttle or less to wide open (slow or fast) the bike almost stutters of coughs before finally getting the revs up then all of a sudden it's just peak power and goes like a lubed up rocket (Smooth). Even sometimes when Im dropping gears and I revmatch the bike will just cut out like its not getting enough air or not enough fuel? Happened a few times now, mainly when I blip the throttle quickly instead of a smooth flick. Anyone have answers on how to get that smooth action the entire way? oh and BTW (I know absolutely nothing about Bikes and carbys)
-
2001 yz250 I need some assistence, first time user. I am new to this, aquired 3 two stroke like new bikes. They really need jetting know how and jets size MAIN JET AND PILOT. AIR SCREW. I will apreciate any help. I am a serious enthisiast with smokers. 2 Tiempo. I want it to clean real nice but im also running wiseco piston and do 30:100 MOTUL 800. Dont know to run the castor mixes? //////// I also have HONDA CR250 2003 with the mikuni and it needs some tunning!!! HAVE NO IDEA
-
Hey everyone! I went out to the desert last weekend and decided to record it. We rode mostly tight sand washes. Check it out! PS Turn up the resolution and the cameras were faced too far down but I tried to make it work
-
So I have been using Thumper Talk for a while to find answers, but never created an account. Anyways, I figured it was time to start contributing to the forum and it gives me a chance to show off my new ride. A couple weeks ago I picked up my first ever brand new dirt bike! This will be a documentation of what I do to it. First off, the bike felt a little cramped. I'm 6'1" and ride standing up a lot so risers were in order. I wanted risers that would also put the bars forward to keep my weight distribution where the bikes stock form intended it to be. Not many options out there but Rox Speed FX recently came out with a new product I like. They give the bars 1 1/4" of rise and move them 1" forward over stock. I really like the risers and my body position feels a lot better now. The stock cables work fine with this set up, but I had to take the clutch cable out of the guide to have enough length.
-
I have a 2006 yz250. It was fully rebuilt top to bottom last winter before racing started rode all year and it was fine the problem I am having after winter start up is starts no problem, run decent, when I turn the throttle smoke and. Lack oil spray out of the silencer like if I put a glove on there's a nice layer of oil also the part of the carb that comes out of the tps and sits on the throttle slide. To me seems loose as in I can lift it to a point and it doesn't spring back. Is it suppose to stay tight to the top of the slide it feels like it doesn't any force down till about 3/4 throttle when I hold it up with my finger also when I lean my bike over the idle picks up a lot
-
Hi all, I'm new to the forums but I've always used them on my other bikes. I currently have a 2014 Honda CRF250L and I have riden some MX on friend's bikes. I'm 16 and I want something aggressive and fun, some things that I want are: 4 stroke Newer than probably 2015 Electric start (possibly a kick-start backup) Easy maintenance (no crazy rebuild schedule)/common parts Mid-High power EFI Thank you in advance
-
okay, so I recently rebuilt the top end of my 2007 yz250f as it went out on a ride. Anyways during the winter it was taken out of the garage and and started for about 2 minutes before it "seized" At least that's what I thought until I took it apart. The kick starter was stuck and wouldn't move and after I took the top end off I saw that the crank was stuck and I was able to get it moving again. So the cylinder was still in good condition and has no big scratches, and now the crank is moving freely as it wasn't before. Is this a simple top end job and I must've not put it back together correctly or is it something deeper involved? Thank you, any input would be appreciated.
-
Hi, I am currently going to buy a new bike a Yamaha yz 125 but I don't know if its a good deal the guy is selling It to me for 1500$ and its bone stock it doesn't run and he says its an easy fix. He said the clutch needs to be readjusted new fluids and gas and rear brake pads. I Don't know if its a good deal right now I am only willing to drop 1500 max on a bike as well. any insight?
-
So the title says it all, I asked this question a few days ago ( my initial post from a few days ago )before I narrowed it down. So it seems that if I take the spark plug out and put a tad bid of gas into the hole it starts up first kick and I can go through the whole throttle range and it doesn't bog or anything. If I wait about 10minutes and try to start it again, nothing not even a budge. Is there something particular that could be clogged? Or is my ECU bad for some reason? -
My 2001 yz426f has a missing 5th gear, what i mean is whenever i shift into 5th the bike revs out like a false neutral and goes nowhere. I still have all the other gears 1st-4th but 5th won’t go, I like to use my bike for wide open runs through everything, but randomly without any noise or jerk or anything it just wouldn’t go into 5th . I was wondering if their was anyone that could help or point me in the right direction. I know theirs not many of these bikes left but i thought i’d give it a shot to put it out their and see if anyone could help?
-
Okay so ever since I bought the bike a few months ago it always started up 1st try as long as I was at TDC (obviously I'd miss it sometimes so sometimes 2-3 kicks). The bike runs perfect is what I am trying to get across. Last night, 5/22/19 bike was running perfectly, and towards the end of the night (30mins before track closed) I went to truck to take a break and jumped back on it and it wouldn't start. So weird... So kicked a few more times, nothing. Waited around 20mins and tried again, still nothing. I dug further and decided to check the spark on the spark plug, spark plug looked like shit for one (see attached images) and I tried to get a spark out of it and I couldn't, bought one from AutoZone for $5 and came back and tested spark, saw a spark, great, put together bike and tried to kick a few times, nothing... So I ended up checking the valve clearances and they seemed fine and in spec Put everything back together again and at this point I was like hm... lets see what happens if I put a little bit of gas, about 1/2 of the top of a water bottle worth into the cylinder. Put the sparkplug back in and kicked it once and it started! Left it on for a few minutes to let it idle / rev it a little then I shut it off, re assembled the rest of the bike then sat back down on it once I was done and kicked it and started up first try again. So my question is, why all of the sudden did it start to seem perfectly fine?? Did that little bit of gas somehow unclog something along the way when it fired up the first time? I was just so confused because I really didn't do anything except replace the spark plug.
-
My 2012 KTM is having issues starting. When I pull out choke and start it it takes forever to fire up. And if it does not fire up after 4-5 seconds I have to stop and try again. Oftentimes it will flood or the battery will get drained. Once my bike finally starts when I try to put it in first gear it cuts out on me unless I let the bike get hot first. Also if I just let it sit in idol without giving it throttle it will end up dying on me as well. Any guidance would be very appreciated and yes I’m pulling in the clutch when going Into first gear lol
-
I have been having an issue with my Ignition Coil on my 2002 YZ125. Let me explain the story of how it happened. Let me preface this by saying I know what is happening and I know what the specific problem is, I need to know if their is a way around this, and if anyone else has had this issue. So I go for a ride, everything works fine, end of the ride, go to wash the bike. Go to start it up afterwards, it does not rev out, as in it will idle but if you turn the throttle, the ignition doesnt advance, rpm stays same, but the system introduces more fuel and air obviously since throttle is open. This issue started about 6 months ago, so since then I have eliminated all the obvious and went through everything to determine it is in fact the secondary ignition coil that is failing. I am pretty proficient with this stuff and pretty much figured out the problem, but have never seen a topic on something like this and want to resolve the issue permanently. But I will walk through all the steps to ensure readers that it is this specific problem to save us both time haha. At the time i did not notice the ignition was not advancing and I naturally thought to look at carb, spark plug, plug cap, powervalve, top end, clocked jets, paper towels in airbox ect..... Well instead of even having to go through the carb, I was actually going to put a different carb on that night either way (Lectron Carburator), and that obviously didn't change anything. Checked Powervalves, changed spark plug, put different fuel in for the heck of it. Checked compression and also looked at the bottom end seals and made sure I did not have an air leak. Everything was perfect, as iv went through the entire engine a few months before this. So then I started looking into electrical. First thing I did was replace spark plug cap. That didnt do it, even though that was giving me wonky Ohms readings. Then I went through the entire electrical system, stator, ignition coil, kill switch. Everything tested good except for the ignition coil initially. Ended up replacing ignition coil. I also filed down the frame leads to bare metal that the ignition coil attaches too. ----- That fixed the problem, or so i thought. Started up and revved fine. Next week, I wash the bike, and it fails again. But this time I let the bike dry out... try a few hours later, and the problem is fixed again. At this point I determined that the water was causing the problem. So I go back and check both igniton coils and realize they both test the same, and that its really hard to get a steady reading on either of those parts. Throw the old one back in real quick and that works fine. Went through and checked all the wires again and used di-electric grease this time on things. Kept having this problem occasionally since then. It is never the end of the world because I know what is happening... and if I wait an hour, sometimes it takes a few, it will resolve itself. So the problem: Something going to the secondary ignition coil, or the coil itself is shorting or intermittently failing, and it is because of water. I do a very good job washing my bike and it always looks showroom condition, so I am spraying water everywhere, but all the electric is sealed up. I know a solution would to be not wash it as well or spray up under the tank where electric is, but that is not an option, I would like to resolve this issue. Thanks for the help -Kirk
-
Hello, I finally thought I’d ask the forum about it, I’ve been running my yz250f for awhile with this “throttle position sensor” unplugged as that’s how I bought it off my buddy and it’s ran fine. I’m now just trying to give her some love and figured the engineers at Yamaha didn’t put it on for no reason. So just asking if anyone knows how I can tell if it’s bad and I should look into replacing it, or if it’s fine to leave unplugged. When I do plug it in and run the bike it starts fine but then seems to have a different tone, im assuming my buddy unplugged it because it went bad and messed with the timing. Anyways, thanks for the insight.
-
Looking at two bikes right now for riding. First one is a 97 dr350 that im buying for 2300 its the se model (dualsport street legal with electric start) and the other is a 2000 yz250 for 2,100. dr350 is in great shape the yz250's plastics are aftermarket with a bunch of shitty stickers on them but other than that looks fine. he says its "mint and has extras on it". The riding I mainly do is on backcountry roads with potholes or dirt roads 90% of the time (I live in northern mn) and occasional trails. Don't berate me for riding illegally lol theres no cops out here and im not tearing up anyones property. Im 14 and started out on a kx80 which was pretty much junk but taught me how to ride and im looking for something that's fast, has good low end and suspension and that I can ride for hours on end without worrying about running out of fuel and being stuck out in the middle of nowhere. I know the dr350 is heavy but how fast is it compared to the yz250? would it be fast enough to outrun cops or angry people (asking for a friend) and should I be concerned about fuel consumption on the yz250?
-
hello my name is Noah and im 13 years old. im about average size 5,6 120 lbs. i started riding about a year ago (dirt bikes anyways). i started on a 2005 drz110 then went to a 2006 ttr125le and finally to a 2003 crf230f. but ive been looking for a new bike, ive been thinking along the lines of a 2006 yz250f. I've had experience with bigger and big bore bikes (trx400ex, drz400s and have rode them many times). my dad has a 50th anniversary yz450f, and i love the look of it. i have been riding about every day on 25 acres. please give me back some feedback. thank you
-
I noticed a bit of play in my rear wheel the other day and was able to pinpoint that it was my linkage bearings. I ordered a pivot works kit and started disassembly. Most stuff started coming out fine but once I get the dust seals off, I uncover nothing but rust and rusty cake which used to be grease. Luckily I have all new bearings. The problem is getting the old bearings out. Ive got a vice, punches, big hammers, large sockets etc, but in my connecting rod, it looks like there's a machined shelf in the center of the hole between my two bearings meaning I can't just push them through. That would be way too easy. I haven't found any videos that hit on this topic but surely I can't be the only one who has encountered this. I've tried using a punch or screw driver to punch them out from the other side but then I just end up blowing out the race of the bearing. My last ditch option is to try and use a dremel to carefully grind it down until a piece of it can come off but I'm worried about screwing up the inside of the connecting rod. Next, I have to try and get the bearings out of the triangular linkage piece which seems like it has the same problem. If it were just one hole all the way though, this would have been done long ago. But because there's a machined shelf in the middle, its making my life a nightmare. I've been soaking them in penetrating oil, and trying to use heat but I just don't feel like its going anywhere. I don't even see how the Motion Pro tool would get this done. I replaced the shock bearings no problem. Anybody else with a similar bike have this issue? I bought this bike used 2 years ago and I'm pretty sure these are the original bearings. Half of the needles were rusted together and I couldn't even spin the collars by hand, they were frozen solid. Depending on the condition of the parts after I get these bearings out, I might end up having to order a new linkage connecting rod and relay arm.
-
Hey everyone! I picked up this 1979 Yamaha mx100 the other day for almost nothing. I have no real experience with bikes at all but I figured this would be a neat summer project. The guy I bought the bike from said that the bike needed a new coil and crank seals. Today I went ahead and fixed a lot of the wiring and the kill switch that the previous owner cut trying to figure out the problem and added a fuel line. The bike has good compression so I am just wondering if it is likely that the secondary coil is likely the problem or is there anything else I should check before buying a new one? I also noticed this silver thing bolted to the side of the bike. Any ideas what it could be? Thanks!
-
Hey guys, I’ve been wondering on what bike i should get. I recently rode a wr250f for the first time and hopped on and wheelied it with ease. I was in 3rd gear and just snapped the throttle in a farm field, would i be able to do the same on a drz400e or would it not rev fast enough to have that snap? I did ride a ktm250sxf too and I liked the snap of that but the wr felt nicer to wheelie. I also like the yz250f and kx250f.
